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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Hello, I am after 4 separate switches/relays that are on the passenger side of the car. If you look at the attached picture I have circled in red what I need. Pressure SW. (A/C Only) Magnet Valve-Vacuum Source (A/C Only) Compressor Relay (A/C Only) Starter Relay w/pigtail harness (Automatic Trans Only) This is based off a 1977 280z with an automatic transmission and A/C. Please PM me if you have anything or email me at zspeed22@gmail.com. Thanks,
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I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?
- 6 replies
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- megasquirt
- MS2
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I am going back in with all my suspension and have come to the realization that I do not know if I should use the gland nut washers on my car. The whole reason I pulled it apart was to get rid of the clunk I had and after some digging around I found that the whole thing might be due to the gland nuts not being tight or the use of the washer that came with the Tokico blues I installed a few years ago any help would be great. car info : 1975 280z , Tokico hp blues,(( msa? lowering springs just being installed)) Thanks ! Will S. with out washer in with washer Gland nut wrench
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Hello, I am in need of a few factory nissan/datsun parts for my 1977 280z. I am doing a factory restoration and would like to keep it all original parts if possible. Factory air intake tube everything before throttle body except AFM. This includes stock blue airbox/hoses Braket for fuseable links Braket for Carbon Canister and a Carbon Canister Braket for AFM 4 bolt on the bottom of AFM Almost all Brakets that are on the passanger side of the engine bay Stock Radiator -This is off an automatic car with A/C If you are doing a part out of a 280z and have alot of miscellaneous engine bay hardware that you cant get rid of let me know. zspeed22@gmail.com or PM me on here.
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Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
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Looking for the interior door panel for the driver's side door for a 75 280Z. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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- 280Z
- door panel
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I am looking to buy lowering springs for my 280Z that is riding high since it went on a diet and shed some weight. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks
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- arizona z car
- bsr
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Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
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Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo
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I have a 75 280z with a sbc swap and I have been searching for info on where you v8 z guys are hiding the vacuum bottle and solenoids for the ac system. I really would like to clean up the look of my engine bay and the big bottle is a looks killer any help would be a big help thanks. Will S. p.s. check out my build thread rolling with the punches.
- 2 replies
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- vacuum bottle
- ac
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Hello HybridZ, I am in search of a Datsun 240z/260z/1975 280z in the Orange County, CA area. I prefer a rolling chassis, but a car with a motor is okay. I will be swapping in a Weber powered L28 race motor, so I would rather not spend money on a motor I will not use. I will be upgrading to an R200 differential so i wont need a diff or half shafts either. Rust is okay to a certain extent... Nothing too major. Missing interior is okay, as long as the dashboard with gauges are there. Id prefer not to spend more than $2000 for a roller, but I may be willing to spend more for a roller with zero rust and/or upgraded suspension components. I AM willing to purchase an out of state car, provided there are plenty of photos showing its condition and it isnt too far to drive and pick it up. Ill consider shipping a car here to SoCal. Thank you all for your time -Never2BeFinished I can also be reached by cell phone, (949) 322-72zero3. Texting preferred due to sporadic schedule, but I can always return calls later.
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Hello friends, from all over the world, my name is Zamar and I am an aspiring Datsun enthusiast. A little background of myself.... I'm twenty one years old, married with my first child, a service member in the U.S. Marines and on a very tight budget due to my other pricey hobbies. Majority of my time is at work and working out, close to all of my time off is spent with my wife and daughter. I do all of my research and learning up on this site and I hope to meet very knowledgable Datsun and/or car enthusiasts. A little background on my 280z, Penny. My goals with Penny is to rebuild her factory L28e and get a reliably smooth and sound motor. - upgrade her whole suspension and lower her 2-3 inches - repaint her Copper brown - replace her factory wheels and tires with a more modern rim and low profile tires. - remove front and rear bumpers, add front grille and air dam - install aftermarket radio I really hope to get a lot of help and I apologize in advance for my new guy questions. I understand to search and search before posting a thread about something that has been covered probably a dozen times before.
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- slow build
- dream
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Hey, I havn't hardly posted on here, cause I really couldnt find reason too. Everything I was looking for was already on here asked by 300 other people lol. I seen the last few days yall been having trouble with the website, I'm glad its back up cause seriously this is my #1 source for info on my 280Z. Since I bought it a few years back I've finally got the efi to work and get the car up to where I can enjoy it. The motor is coming out near the end of the season and gonna put some flat tops and megasquirt. I seriously cannot wait to do all this. I just wanted to let everyone here on this forum that posts their fixes, problems, and issues THANK YOU! You've helped me tons and on a limited budget! Not to mention great reading about some of your guys and gals cars in here. Tommorrow the cars gonna get flogged on some north ga mountain roads near my house all thanks to you guys.
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I have been trying to learn the dang offsets for the different size wheels and widths for these s30's and cant seem to get rid of the headaches i get from trying to figure this all out. At first I thought the more negative you go, the further out it sticks, then a friend told me i was backwards, and now I have given up. I have zg flares on the way to the house, wont be installing them until I get rims and coilovers installed. I want to go ahead and get wheels now because one of my rims has a little dent in the edge causing a tiny little leak which makes me put air in the tire about every two weeks. But ANYWAYS, i hate stance, I love big lips on these s30s and I want a 255 on a 9 inch wide wheel. I want the widest footprint I can get, obviously for good handling, but little to no camber in the rear (about 1-2 degree max in rear and 2-3 degree max in the front). What offset do you guys think would be best? i can get some spacers to dial it in perfect when I get the wheel but 16x9's with zg flares with little to no extra camber...? attached pictures are of the stance i like
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Soooooooooo I have always wondered what a 1970 dodge daytona wing would look like on my 280z. Obviously if I were to do it I would have to "shrink" it down. Anyone else think I should waste my money on trying this? If I do ill attach photos at a later date.
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Rolling with the punches a 75 280Z v8 Refresh
hwvigo posted a topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S. -
Hi everyone, I've been trying to get my car working properly again and it keeps giving me trouble. I think the source of this is the fuel line i'm using from the tank outlet to the fuel pump inlet. It's carburetor hose since it's on the non-pressurized side of the system, but it's very soft/malliable and kinks very easily. I think this is what's causing my car to not get enough fuel while driving. I can't find the OEM Nissan hose anywhere, and I can't find 7/16 fuel injection rated hose anywhere either. Does anyone know where I can get either of those? I'd like to get my car running again ASAP. Thanks, - Brandon
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Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shifting up a gear would usually make it stop. Then it started to bog down on the rare occasion. It would run rough, misfire, had no power, and wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm (or if it did, it went kicking and screaming). I would drive it for a minute and then it would start running normally. On my way to my first day at a new job last month, it died in my neighborhood and wouldn't start again. My dad and I were trying to push it back that night but it was tough since it was on a slight slope. He went to get the truck to pull it back and I decided to try starting it again to see what it would do. It caught a couple times and then finally coughed back to life. I changed the fuel pump thinking it was the old one going bad. I used an Airtex pump from O'Reilly (I know, you're probably rolling your eyes now) and installed a Fram G3 between the tank and the pump to keep tank crud from messing up the pump. It worked fine for a couple days and then the issue came back with a vengeance. As it sits now, the car idles fine. Driving it, it starts to stumble around 2500 rpm and the power cuts completely at ~3000 rpm. It's almost undriveable unless I'm really careful with how high I rev. Even then, it can be fussy. The general manager of the auto shop I work for knows the car really well so he helped me diagnose it on Saturday. He checked and adjusted the TPS and AFM. We tried a new computer since we had one laying around and there was no change. He checked for leaks on the intake and found none. He removed the vacuum from the FPR on the fuel rail and fuel pressure rose accordingly which, if I've read correctly, means that the FPR is functioning properly. The last thing we did was check fuel pressure (probably should have done that first but hindsight is always 20/20). It was running at 32 psi @ idle and under load (revving the car) it would dip to ~30 psi. If I'm correct about the FPR working properly, I've narrowed it down to 3 suspects: - The G3 filter I installed between the tank and the pump - The new pump - Fuel damper near the pump I read about people installing the G3 so I thought it was a good idea. The pump is new, but it is a random O'reilly brand. Since I was having issues before and after replacing the pump, that leads me to believe that the issue does not lie in the pump setup I installed. My old OEM pump was probably still working alright for its age. As I type this, the most plausible cause in my eyes would be the fuel damper. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a bad fuel damper are, however. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to try running it without the filter when I get the chance, but I've been obscenely busy the last few days. Thanks. Pac_Man
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Hello, I have searched the database and could not find any threads that answer my question. I apologize in advance if this has been covered. Is this l28e rebuild kit as far pistons any different than the Factory L28e I have in my 280z? Keeping in mind it states l28e 280zx rebuild kit. I only ask because I'm rebuilding my motor and this kit is in my price range. Also if anyone has any remarks to Clegg engines or any other reasonably priced rebuild kits on the market. I would greatly appreciate your input, good or bad. http://www.cleggengine.com/nissan-2-8l-l28e-280zx-sohc-12v-81-83-complete-engine-kit.html
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Hello all, I have searched low and high to no avail. I am upgrading to a 280zx alternator in my 75 280. I was following the diagram below and carried out with the white to yellow but had noticed that my volage regulator did not have the specified green and red. It appears that the pin hole of the voltage regulator for the G/R was capped from the factory. So I am hoping that there are some guys here that have figured something out for the 75s that could help me finish this up? Thank you in advance... Connect 1-5 (lamp to windings common) green&red to white&black Connect 2-3 (+12V to Sense) white to yellow
- 10 replies
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- 280zx
- alternator
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I'm looking for a fuel injected L28, preferably out of a 1978. Needs to be a running motor without any serious issues. I know someone has to have one sitting around that was swapped out for a SBC or RB. I am on a serious budget, so being able to drive and pick it up would be wonderful! I'm in Clallam County. I don't want to low-ball anyone, so just let me know what you are thinking as far as price. 500-800 is around my ideal price range. Thanks!
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I'm doing this swap because no one else has, or so it seems. So if you don't have helpful information don't add to my post. That being said, any ideas on retained equipment to be left in my z?