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Showing results for tags 'Rb25'.
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Hi HybridZ, I am Allen G, I'm from North Carolina and I have a 78 280z that I thought I would share as an introduction. I bought my car as a bone stock 280z about 8 years ago and I have been working on improving it ever since. The car currently has a stock(ish) RB25DET and the stock RB transmission that came with it, and is being run on an AEM Infinity ECU. The car has a radium dual pot surge tank, n1 oil pump, and baffled oil pan, but I am currently contemplating having the rear head drain improved to cut down on the possibility of having oiling issues these motors are known for. I've got it running through an OS Giken superlock CLSD geared to 3.92 with wolf creek CV axles. The car sits on T3 coil-overs and I currently have 15" rota grids wrapped with Toyo Proxes RA1s, from what I have experienced with the tires thus far I would recommend them highly! I am building the car for road course use, I am not much for the drag racing aspect of motorsports and VIR is a short drive away for me. I recently got the opportunity to test the performance of the vehicle on track at NCCAR here in NC and it went great! I thought I was in love with the car before but now I REALLY want to keep improving both the car and my own skills driving it. I will say I have worked in the car business all my life and I am not totally uninformed, but I am also always learning and I will probably be learning for a long time to come. Check out my car and let me know what you think, it's a pretty decent setup but there are a lot of aspects that I am still trying to perfect. Thanks for reading, I am looking forward to engaging with you and learning from all of you!
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Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
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Hey all, quick question that I'm having trouble finding the answer to. I'm about to fab up the engine mounts for my RB25 and I've read online somewhere sometime ago that I needed to level out the engine using the flat flange on the bottom for the oil pan. That makes sense to me, but when I try to twist the engine to be flat it pushed my transmission shifter into the passenger's side of the trans tunnel. is it better to go off of the transmission shifter and get the exactly flat or to go off of the bottom of the oil flange? Also, I know that the oil pan has a bit of an angle on it, around 3 inches deeper on one side. Is this to flatten out the bottom and the engine actually should be angled a bit? I'm hoping somebody may be able to walk out and snap a few quick photos of their setup and describe it a bit. Thanks in advance!
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*Finally getting around to documenting my build. Will continue to update the text as I go. Happy to answer any questions. Feel free to also follow along on instagram for more frequent updates. I fell in love with the S30 chassis at around the age of 13 and tried to buy one or two as my first car. Unfortunately, being from the north east, anything I could afford had rust holes in structural areas you could put your hand through. After watching the price trend over the last few years, I decided I better act before I missed the boat. -Purchased sight unseen in October, 2018 from another member here. -The car started it's life in California, was shipped to Florida by the P.O., and then I shipped it back to California. I was living in Germany at the time, so the plan was to store it with my family and make trips to work on it whenever I found the time. -I purchased it as a roller since I'd always planned to do a swap anyway. It came with a lot of T3 and AZC suspension bits already in place, most of which I sold.
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Hey guys im going to be running fuel lines on my 280z w an Rb25det. Looking to put a rear sump on my gas tank and run walbro 255 fuel pump, z32tt fuel filter and a isr fuel pressure regulator. What type of lines should i run. Keep in mind i have a babre bone shell w everything stripped so ill b starting from scratch. Any input would be nice as far as what kind of line to use not planning on using e85.
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Gather around folks I'm building my dream car. Some may know me here, some may not. I've been building nissans for 15 years now. My last personal build started in 2009 on this forum but I stopped documenting after 2011. I just sold my entire setup to my best friend, which I also sold my 2nd 240z too. So I'm starting to document a new chapter in my build. I tore down my black car and we are completely rebuilding my friends orange one better than ever. The original setup was amazing, never let me down. R34 NEO motor, GT35R, Tein coilovers with edfc, clsd, axles, wilwoods.... etc. This brings us to my new build and it's current state on my rotisserie waiting to get massacred. I'll post some photos and get this ball rolling Donor car was an ever so gracious R33 GTR Vpec, 90% of parts came from the same car. I will be grafting front and rear sub frames into my Z chassis, including the AWD system, Brembos, suspensions (tein), Axles, Diff, etc from the GTR... I've even gone ahead and gotten the GTR pedel set and Master so she should feel as GTR as possible from inside. Steering column, steering rack all modern and hydraulic (and left hand drive ) I've collected 90% of the bizarre hardware associated with the awd system too. Also will be doing GTR gauges, chassis strengthening, new wiring, wheels, so on and so forth.... My old car was quite the track beast, I intend to make this one deadlier than ever. More so I just love building so I'm doing it Grab some popcorn, this ones going to take a minute!
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Okay guys I have a 1993 NA z32 and obviously that isn’t fun enough so I want to swap engines but don’t know which would be easier and more practical to do the RB25 or the RB26 or should I just take it the easy way out and go VG30DETT?
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Hey guys. I've been doing an RB25DET swap into my 280z and I'm using a Wiring Specialties harness for the swap. When I finally hooked up my battery (cables already connected to the starter, no key in the ignition), the starter tried to crank. I don't know if I've missed a starting relay somewhere that I didn't see in the wiring diagrams or what. Without the key in the ignition the start signal to the solenoid shouldn't be hot, so I'm not sure why it's cranking. If i hooked up the positive & ground backwards would this ignore a start signal and crank anyway?
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I recently picked up my RB25, and after looking at the crazy high prices for transmission/engine mounts and reading some of the reviews I figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a go myself. If it works out, great, if not then I'll buck up and pay the money for the pre-fabbed ones. Anyways, I decided to start with the transmission mount as it seemed easier and It would hold my engine in place beter for the motor mounts. First things first, I took the old transmission mount off of the 4 speed transmission, and it bolts up perfectly to the 5speed RB tranny. I was pleasantly surprised! That meant I could at least use the original mount to an extent. Then, I put the engine in place to get measurements. I pushed it almost as far back as I could towards the firewall. I noticed that the mckinney mounts seemed to bolt the engines straight down, but it seemed like you'd have to modify the trans tunnel in order to have the shifter go through. I wanted my shifter to be in more of a stock location, and it wouldn't pop through until I pushed it farther back. Then, I crawled under and got some measurements. These probably aren't;t universal and probably won't work for everyone, but what I got was this: The original mounting area allowed the transmission mount to be 14 inches long. The new area I was mounting was 10". The original mounting holes were 12.25 inches apart in the middle of the holes, with the other hole being directly center. It was also farther back in the tunnel by 5". I figured the easiest way to do this would be to make some sort of jig, so I put together a crude assembly with just some shelf wood and some nails. I measured the above measurements, cut the ends off of the tranny mount 2" in each side, allowing it to fit in the new location. Then, I took some 1"x 2" bar I had lying around and just eyeballed it basically, holding it above and marking it with a pencil, then cutting it along the lines and shaving it as needed. I then tacked it in place, got under and double checked it and everything fit really well. Probably nto perfect, but it seems like it is pretty much perfect. I then pulled it back out and welded it all together. My welds are supreme, I know. I also cut a corner out of the passenger side tranny mount thing that I need to go in and weld up. The Speedo sensor, as many already know, doesn't fit in that area without that being modified. Also, a little plug for grinding masks. I bought this a few years back after cutting my lip off with this very grinder. I wised up and decided I wanted protection across my whole face. Yesterday, there mustve been some sort of manufacturing error with the disc I was using and it exploded while in use. The biggest chunk hit me right in the face, but thanks to this bad boy I'm all good. I'm curious everyone's thoughts! do you think this will old, assuming my professional quality welds penetrated well? Of does it need to be more centered across?
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Hey to all, I am testing the waters to see what my project's worth as is. I do not have the time to complete this project on my own. I'm willing to throw money at it to finish, but don't know where to take it. I live in Southwest Louisiana in case you're wondering. Refreshed engine - New gaskets, ARP bolts, OEM head gasket Sanded, primed, and bedlined engine bay and cleared with metal flake Borg-Warner 7670D Twin Scroll 1.05A/R About the car: Bought the car in New Mexico. Surface rust beneath the fenders but can be sanded out. No rust on floor boards up front. Surface rust near the back of the seat mounts but nothing serious. I the frame rails need to be repaired as there is rust damage there. No rust around drip rails, or in spare boot. No rust on or around hatch. Illumina adjustable springs and eibach springs bought for front and back. Only back has been installed, along with poly bushings. Carbon Fiber rear spolier and front splitter 5-speed manual that came with the engine Bought but not installed: New weather strip kit for whole car Eibach lowering springs (front) and tokico illumina adjustable (front) Poly bushings for front suspension I have a spare R-200 that comes along with it, but it's not worth much as I thought it was an LSD, which it isn't.
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Hi there i have looked a bit everyone and dont know quite whats wrong and how to get my speedo working. My dash cluster is new and 100% working. But still my speedo doesnt move i was told its due to having a rb20det tranny which uses a mechanical speedo while the cars rb25 requires an electrical speedo. I was told that by putting in a rb20e r33 speedo drive would resolve this . Im not too sure on how accurate this is and Id like any tips or ways to resolve the issue. Preferably not too expensive. Im sure many people have done this b4 looking for how to get the speedo working again . (NOTE : previous owners dropped the 20det gbox in , i was told its a small issue but more i looked into it after buying most mechanics have suggested putting in a rb25det bigbox, i dont see the need as the gbox is tight and strong and I am running no modes all stock factory 100,000kms. engine 60,000km tranny ) -
Hey there, My name actually is Wesley despite my username, I've loved the Z series for an underwhelming 10 or so years. I'm new to the forum and I've dabbled in Classic Z Car forums for lotsa stock parts and rebuild resourcing. Recently I've been hunting and comparing prices on an RB25DET Series 2 (eng and trans) for my '72 240z who is lacking a working heart. I was recommend to this forum at a car event in Toronto, supposedly this is the hot spot for resto-mod and aftermarket Z builds! I don't believe this is the correct place for an introduction so i'll ask away. Has anyone purchased a used engine from a Toronto locale engine store, and what were your thoughts on service and product reliability? Additionally I am wondering if anyone has had good experiences with overseas JDM imports. I'm mostly concerned with accuracy of described product, product knowledge, and some form of warranty or guarantee. I've seen a 30-day limited warranty everywhere I've visited, and to be quite honest I will likely take the whole month to do the swap. That said, I may not be able to run the engine for testing before my warranty's up! Thanks so much for the read, and a quick thanks to every poster in the RB series forum. SO MUCH INFORMATION Wes
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Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.
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Hey all, Long time lurker, first-time poster. I am currently in the process of building an early 240z with a rb26 in it. I have just finished rebuilding my motor and mating it to the rb25 gearbox so I am in the process of getting it all mounted up in place. I am using the CXracing mount kit. I would have gone the McKinney kit but unfortunately here in Australia the dollar was low at the time of ordering so this was the only affordable one. Anyway, I have got the engine mounted up and am having trouble getting the gearbox up in the tunnel as the speedo sensor is interfering with the ears. I'm not sure the best way to go about fixing this issue. I have seen plenty of pics of peoples mods of notching out the bracket with the other style of tunnel mounting but I can't see any solutions that utilise the cx mounts I have. Has anyone come across and solved this problem at all? I have uploaded 2 pics of the interference, and also one of the mounts that I have that attaches between the ears. I have already tried just moving the engine forwards but the mounts are already set such that the engine is as far forward as possible. Any help would be much appreciated!!
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Hey Hybrid Z! I am in the process of product procurement for my RB25DET swap into my 260Z 2+2. I have recently decided to snag a cd009 due to the price and the fact that it's a 6 speed and its abuse abilities. What is the process like for mating the cd009 to the RB? I understand cutting is involved but I see some images of a plate (collins) onto the engine then bolting the CD009 to that and I also see some images of cutting the entire CD009 bell housing off. I do not understand what is needed to be done to mate the two. Has anybody done this? If so could you shed some light? I know a custom trans crossmember will be needed. Thanks for your insight, -Don
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Sorry if this is a dumb question, I tried searching the forums but didn't find anything that really talked about this. I'm doing an RB25 swap into a 280z, so I've had the oil pan converted to a rear sump type. I then realized that the engine had these two attachments that bolt on the sides of the engine near the back for the transmission to mate with. Due to the rear sump oil pan those don't fit. It looks like there's 4 bolt holes on the engine block that would still work with the trans, not including the starter bolts. Are there modified side attachments I need to get for the trans, or do you just use the 4 bolts you can? That doesn't seem right.
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Looking for an RB26DETT with the RWD conversion to install into my 75 280z. I will arrange shipping if needed. I can pick up if within 300 miles of Lake Charles, LA. Must be in running condition with little rebuild needed. Harness is a must as well. PM me if you have anything.
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Made this turbo back exhaust for this Rb powered 240z, it's made from oval tubing and round tubing. Fully tig welded stainless steel. A HKS Hi-power muffler was used at the back. Rear spare tire well was cut in order to clear the enormous muffler ( customer didn't realize how big the canister was) Cut some sheetmetal and Beadrolled it for strength and style. Came out pretty clean and it sounds awesome! I will try and upload a video here or link to youtube.
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So I'm having trouble picking out which conversion kit for my z but I'm stuck between two kits can someone who has done the setup suggest which kit I should get. And if anyone has used the cxracing conversion kit give me feedback on it thanks.
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Hello all! This is actually my first forum post, as I have been lurking quite a bit. Please let me know if I have posted this in the wrong place. I am currently in the midst of a 240z restomod, with a remarkably clean shell out in the yard. I have solidifed the plan to put a RB25DET in it in the foreseeable future, as the charm of the RB engines has quite a hold on me Now the kicker is, I'm on a tight budget, being in high school and soon college. I want to begin to build the car and get the internals working before I drive it over to a paint shop to get a nice finish (it is currently primered). My initial thought was to go with the RB right off the bat, however this would result in the car being off the road and in the shop for much longer than I can stand, as well as be a huge task for a newbie mechanic. My current thought is to purchase a good ol' L28 and a 5 speed tranny for use until the car looks and moves how I want, then RB later when money is not as tight. Another reason is that I love the feel of the L series with a passion and want to get to know the engine before moving to bigger and better things. Is this a reasonable plan or will I sink too much money into an engine I plan to replace anyways for it to be worth it? -
I need help getting dimensions for a few parts of an RB20. I currently don't have one or have the current funding to buy one. So I need help to get the following dimensions: cylinder head intake ports, cylinder head valves, cylinder head intake manifold bolt pattern, cylinder placement on block, and spark plug placement on cylinder head. I know I just need to get my hands on one but thats not to easy in the USA. This is so I can make a basic 3D soildworks model to run some solidworks simulations for both of my current projects. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you.
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Hey guys and gals, wanted to update you on some new Raw Brokerage goodies: Our new billet merge collector manifolds are everything our traditional manifolds are plus more. Made out of one piece 304 stainless steel billet leaves no room for error with runner transition into the turbo. These manifolds allow you to continue to retain both power steering and A/C and clear up to 4" downpipes on both LHD and RHD chassis. Good for those with 240sx RB swaps and upgraded Skyline chassis'. For more details: http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-billet-twin-scroll-top-mount-turbo-manifold-rb20-rb25-rb26/ We'll have a S30Z specific model made if there is enough interest. Let me know. Thanks for your continued Raw Brokerage support. Together we can continue to create and provide bigger and badder RB20 RB25 RB26 and RB30 parts for the community of enthusiasts! -
From the album: 280z project
<p>The day i got the car and the engine home. been wanting this car and engine combo for a long time <img class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png" title=":)" /></p> -
I'm doing an rb25 swap and the mounts i purchased require a stock rb25 trans mount... I got my motor and trans out of a swapped s13 and the stock trans mount is long gone! anyone have one they would be willing to sell or donate to the cause? Thanks!
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Hello, I own a 76 280z which is all bone stock, and the clutch is starting to really slip, almost undriveable, and a friend of mine offered me, his used clutch which is almost new, the reason being hes going to be making about 600-700 hp on his ls1 swapped 300z. But he offered me to have his old clutch because he just ordered a new racing clutch for his car, which was about 1700-2000$ and I was just wondering if a RB25 clutch would fit with the L28 transmission?? Thanks in advance.
