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Showing results for tags 'r200'.
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The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.
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As some of you know we were part of a product development with Mfactory. The whole point of this was to bring the R200 more helical LSD options. This production was a great success with the help of great members of this community. The original thread is here. They are currently for long nose R200s with 10mm and 12mm Ring gear bolts. Accepts 29 spline stub axle shafts. Some key points about MFactory and their Helical LSD. Mfactory established in 2004 Covered by the MFactory Lifetime, Globally Transferable Warranty Diamond Cut to exacting tolerances from Forged High-Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steel (imported Japanese SAE 4320 & SAE 9310 Steel) Forged, Double Tempered and Super Sub-Zero treated for unsurpassed toughness Advanced Shot Peening technology increases surface hardness Designed to withstand the extreme shock loads of competition-level Drag Racing Advanced gear geometry designed using industry-leading software puts more power to the ground Only the highest quality Brighton-Best Hardware is used Maintenance-free Gears eliminates the need for special fluids & rebuilds associated with plate-type LSDs (I personally use AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w-90) Lock-free operation ensures no adverse affect to steering response MSRP: $999.95 Limited HybridZ member price: $875 shipped to lower 48. (CA residents must pay sales tax) All differentials are shipped from CA via UPS and have signature required delivery. Supplies are limited right now so act fast! If you are interested please PM me with your shipping address and PayPal Email address. Once we receive that information from you we can send you a payment request on Paypal. All orders are shipped same day (Mon-Fri not including holidays) if payment is received by 4:30PM EST (1:30PM PDT) Any questions please feel free to email me at nick@jdmpowerhouse.com, reply to this post, or shoot us a PM. MFactory contact info. 581 W. Covina Blvd San Dimas, CA 91773 (MFactory R&D / North American Sales & Distribution) Business Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am - 4pm (PST) Tel: +1 909-592-5933 Fax: +1 213-455-2613 Web: www.teamMFactory.com
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"Long nose R200 Torsen LSD, 3:90 ratio." This is the way unit was described when I bought it for a race car - never finished car. Been in dry storage. $750 Located in Greenville, SC area
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Greetings everyone. I have a nismo 2way LSD that I would like to attempt to install in an R200 3.90 from a 1981 280zx (if that is even possible) and use the 29 spline inner stub axles that came with.
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Hello all, I have a 280ZX with an R200 open diff. In the next few years I plan on swapping the engine to make some more horsepower (300-500hp), but want to make sure my axle can handle it. I know the R200 is sturdier than the smaller diffs, and that problems often happen when one wheel spins. An LSD also helps for track driving, and driving in general (no I will not do a welded diff). There are several LSD carriers for the R200, marketed for the 300ZX, such as the OEM, M Factory, and OBX. There are plenty of forums and videos of people swapping the carriers for the S30 chassis, and they all talk about converting to 300ZX CV axles. My question is- If I swap the carrier for an LSD, can I use the 280ZX CV axles?
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Running into a few issues with my halfshafts like most are. Since im running a little bit more than stock hp on my 260z, i am needing something a lot more beefy. Looking for something that can hold close to 700-800hp on an r200 diff. 29 spline Westcreek (good but is this rated for that much rwhp? read a thread where the OP ran into issues with the install.) Driveshaft shop ( Probably going with this but i hear the actual adapters rub on the control arms? is this true, will i need to notch?) Also heard you run the risk of bolts unthreading? how is this possible? z31 axles w/ adapters ( thought i would go with this route, but was pointed in the direction of CJ cave and he never replied back) Let me know your thoughts, just want to do this right and once. Without breaking the bank.... If i don't have to . Joa
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Trying to put all parts into a 71' 240z. I am looking at running a l28et with a t5 out of a 280zx turbo and then an r200 diff out of a 280z, will I need to modify the trans mounts to run the t5 still? Also will I want the driveshaft out of the 280z or the 280zx turbo? I am trying to setup something with the least amount of fabrication required. -
I just picked up a 76 r200 and a brand new quafe LSD. I've never opened up a diff before - any recommendations? Can anybody point me to a how-to? thanks
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I need an R200 LSD Differential for my 240Z swap. Looking for one already converted and locked. Will pay up for the right one. Will only need stubbies if you have them. Thanks in advance for the help.
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I'm looking to refresh my suspension for my 75 280z. Looking for coilover and aftermarket control arms, preferable techno toy tuning but open to other brands. I'm also looking for an R200 to swap in for my stock R180. Let me know if you have anything that you are looking to get rid of. I do have so parts to trade if you are looking for Retro-spec fender flares, 240z calipers, 240z inspection lids. thanks -
Looking for a finned cover for my R200 LSD. Preferably in good shape without any broken fins.
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I'm not sure if this belongs in the drive-train or brakes section, but with black Friday coming up I thought I'd throw it here since It gets more views, MODS feel free to move it. I'm new to IRS suspension and I'm really having trouble wrapping my head around how a diff swap will affect the car. I've read the FAQ's and I think a q45 diff is the way I want to go. As I said I'm having trouble visualizing how this all goes together, is there a picture or some kind of diagram with all the components like the half shafts and companion flange? and all that other stuff and how it all connects? my biggest question is will it affect my brakes? I want to get set from silverminemotors if they have a black Friday sale, but I'm worried that a diff swap would change the hub, or something to make the brakes no longer fit. I'm sorry that this is a probably a pretty silly question, but there's a lot of new terms I don't know, and its hard for me to understand it in word form. I get the difference between the short and long nose diffs and how they are mounted, but everything beyond that confuses me. 1. Is there a diagram or laid out and labeled image of how the q45 or similar diff connects to the 240z stuff? 2. Would a q45 swap affect my aftermarket brake choices? Thanks Guys!
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Hello, I’m looking for l28et with p90 head. Optionaly with the Borg Warner T5 and r200 diff. I have complete stock 260z and would like to go turbo. Best regards, Mark
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Rolling with the punches a 75 280Z v8 Refresh
hwvigo posted a topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S. -
I'm looking for a crownwheel and pinion in either of the afforementioned ratios. Will pay for shipping. secure payment via paypal
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Info: 1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD Problem: First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc.. I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime. Please help! I attached pictures of the part.
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So I decided to remove my rear diff which is a 3.7 and install a 3.9 I had laying around. When I romoved the back cover on the one I removed from the car I noticed a little piece in the centre (first pic) that the 3.9 I planned on installing did not have(second pic). Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of locker?
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I have an 1989 3.9 R200 long nose. I need a good reliable LSD and I want CV's if possible. I bought an OS Giken NS046-HA LSD for a short nose R200. It is for a 1991 240SX open diff. I have used this diff numerous times in SX cars up to 450whp with good results so I wanted to see if it would go in a long nose. I put on new carrier bearings and used the original shims in the same locations. The ring gear bolts are smaller than the holes in the LSD but it is hubcentric so I just bolted it on. I have done this on SX diffs numerous times with no issues. There are spacers available if this worries you. The backlash and preload were within specs. First thing I noticed was the thick spacer is on opposite sides in the 2 diffs. This had me worried since the stub shafts are interchangeable between the 3 (280Z, 240SX, Z31ZXT). I tried these stub shafts in all 3 diffs. The groove is slightly wider on the SX stubs so I widened the groove on the Z31 shafts. They worked and locked in either way but the Z31's were very hard to get back out and a wider groove with slightly rounded edges matched the SX grooves better. I bought the Z31 axle shafts and flanges from Checkered Flag Joe. They are very beefy. It was no big deal to change shafts. Pull the c clip on the outboard end. Knock the inboard end off by hitting on the race. Change shafts and put it back together. The flanges are much heavier than stock and a tighter fit on the stock 280Z stub axles but went on with minimum fuss. The Giken's are very good and tunable diffs. They drive like stock, with no chattering, on the street but hook up great. They have 20 or so discs. Actually the steels and clutches are all steels but it works. I use Redline NS oil in them for the first 300 miles and then change to Giken fluid. It is very spendy. I couldn't find if this would work or not so thought I would share my experience. It works. Be sure to use an aftermarket LSD for an open diff SX and any one should work in a log nose R200 with either Z stubs or Z31 axles.
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I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.
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Currently have an R200 w/ the 3.9 gear ratio. Looking for 4+. Anything available out there? Seen a lot of the shortnose R200 that came in the 300ZX or 240sx but not sure if that will work because the pinion gear being different.
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I am a newbie. In the process of building a Velo Rossa out of a 240z. I have a R200 open differential already installed, but the driveshaft is not in yet. I have a racing buddy, who has an extra limited slip R200 differential that he wants to keep, instead of sell to me, as he may need a differential in the future. He locks his differentials, to the point that one wheel will bounce when you take a slow turn. Is there any reason my friend would rather lock up a limited slip diff versus an open diff? I would assume it is way easier to weld the open diff than to weld the lsd. Your thoughts?
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Hey anyone running a obx lsd in a r200 using the 280zx turbo or 300zx tripod axles? If so is your passenger side axle slightly floppy? Were the axle goes into the diff the last 10-12mm that enters last has a step up on it before the actual tripod housing has play there and the axle can be grabbed and moved up and down some. Its not just me znke has the same problem! Does the small step portion of the axle seat into the diff or does it float and the only thing holding the axle straight is the splines and wire clip? Anyone?
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Hey all! I'm planning out a V8 swap for my '82 280zx coupe. I'm planning on using a 6.0L LQ4 with a T56 6 speed manual out of a '98-'02 F-body. I decided to stay with the R200 differential so that I can keep my independent suspension. I'm looking for someone that has done this same swap that can tell me what the length of the drive shaft needs to be. I know there is a lot of support with this swap so I was hoping that there is a drive shaft out there that will work with that setup. Does anyone who did this same swap have a good set of measurements for their drive shaft? Or will I have to have one made? Thanks for any/all help, Ford
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I am looking for an R200 rear differential for my 76' 280z. I need a direct bolt-in unit or one with all the parts to make it fit in my 280z. I would prefer it to be LSD of some sort and a gear ratio of either 3.90 or 4.11 to match my 280zx 5-speed transmission. I am located in Northeast Ohio.
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