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Picked this up from local hot rod shop for my 240z SBC 350 project about 13 years ago. Circuits: Electric fan relay Fuel pump Radio and amplifier Power windows Summit Racing/parts store etc probably have this fuse box.

Got the sensor figured out. It is idling around 130-140 F. Should be OK. I have to post a video. Sorry but I think this thing sounds bad ass. I have an insert in the exhaust so I dont need earplugs.

Update: after speaking to Cortex and getting some spindle dimensions from them for CAD mockup, looks like I’ll be using their Radial X spindles. Very exciting stuff, I am a bit weary about using aluminum spindles but the car is a track car and last weighed at ~600# over each front wheel so I think I’ll be alright. Thanks! Excited to share my progress with you guys. I’d eventually like to make my work/design open source and see what more talented suspension engineers can do with it. If I didn’t just buy one of these yesterday I’d offer to trade you a complete kit for one of them KN20 heads XD. A bummer indeed, just another bump in the road! Funny you mention Stock Car blade-swaybars. It’s basically all I’ve been looking at for switching over to that design. Plus the parts are pretty cheap & standardized. Thanks everyone.

This is awesome. We haven't had a good engineering project on here in a while, so this is a good to see.

The two areas "1" are a great place to attach tow hooks.

The dyno chart for that was from my old 331 stroker: Stock Roller Block (4.030" bore) Eagle 3.25" stroker crank and rods Mahle 4.030 Pistons Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.571" lift) AFR 185 heads 1.75 Long Tube headers 30# injectors I scattered that engine at Daytona My new engine is a 347. Dart SHP Block (4.125 bore) Scat 3.25" stroke forged crank and H-Beam rods Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.625" lift) AFR 185 heads Long Tube headers 42# injectors I use Megasquirt MSPNP 2 to tune both engines.

Day 1 of installation. almost 12 hour day and got a lot knocked out. Pics below:

With a good 5th gear, overdrive is wonderful... I have the mythical R200 with 3.36 rear gear. The transmission is a T5 with the G-Force Shafts and gears 1 through 4. I run short tires Avon 23 /10.5-15 on all four corners. When I first installed the G-Force gears I was only auto crossing the car, and really only used 2nd gear. When I started doing track days (Daytona and Sebring), I quickly discovered that 5th gear was horrible. With the stock gears, 5th wasn't optimal but wasn't too terrible (3.35, 1.94, 1.44, 1.0, .67). When I changed to the G-Force Gears, 1st gear was improved but 5th gear sucked (2.95, 1.95, 1.33, 1.0, .58) First time at Daytona, I was redlining 4th gear by the time I came off the banking onto the front and rear straights, and the .58 5th gear would drop my rpms and torque too much to be useful. The .58 5th gear was horrible, so I pulled the transmission and took it to Astro Performance in Tavares, Fl and had them install the A5 5th gear (0.81). The difference was night and day. Overdrive went from a total buzz kill to being my Warp Drive... If you get a transmission with a good 5th gear (TKX with .81 5th), then you'll be fine. This is what the gear spread (speed versus rpm) looks like: Here is what a full acceleration run looks like if you assume 0.25 second shifts: The above uses numbers from my old dyno chart and the following inputs: Dyno graph from my old engine (my new engine makes more power and torque):

Hi HybridZ, Some of you have already seen my Apex Engineered Track Attack information/discussion thread here, I've decided after reviewing the design of the Apex Engineered front suspension kit, the best solution moving forward is to design my own. In this thread I will be documenting my progress and hopefully gaining knowledge on suspension design from you guys (or from what's left, f**k Facebook groups). To start... Why don't you just use the AE kit? It was $4000, you're just gonna waste $4000??? (Yes) Not enough shock travel, that's pretty much it. Once I received the shocks from Viking I realized immediately that 3.20" of stroke was not going to be enough and thus set out on a fool's errand to find alternative solutions. Viking shocks, from what I've found, have the most shock travel per the physical dimensions of the shock that I've seen so far. They're compact and the adjustment knob is well-designed to take the least amount of space with respect to the rest of the shock body. Very nice, but I will ultimately use either JRi's Mod series DA shocks or Penske's 7800/8300 series DA shocks as now, getting a shock long enough to reach between the strut tower and the LCA is more important. Design (pictured with 17" diameter wheel) The most prominent feature of my SLA design is the UCA pickup being located within the engine bay. The shock tower must be cut and a box structure is welded to the frame rail. This design is based on both the Maier Mod 2 design and Cortex Racing SLA kit seen here: Maier SLA Design Cortex SLA Design The reason I moved the chassis pickup for the UCA inboard was to extend the length of the control arm which should allow for a more compliant spring than the offerings from Apex. Mike Maier inferred the reason for the obscenely high rates was to keep the super short UCA from camming over and ruining the geometry. Fine for a super stiff autocross car but for a road-course car with kerbs, burms, and undulations in the track surface? Unacceptable. With this shock, I'll be looking at around 7-8" of total shock stroke travel. The remaining part of the design lies with the spindle (not shown) and the boxed-structure (also not shown). The boxed-structure was fairly straightforward to design - shout out to @Ben280 for sending me frame rail measurements while my car's been at the body shop. The boxed structure welds to the chassis frame rail located in the engine bay which the cross-shafts then mount to. The spindle is obviously not straight forward, fortunately for me there's plenty of resources on the LocostUSA forums for me to look at as well as Chassis Design and Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken and Milliken. Once the completed version 1 of the design is done, I’ll begin FEA with a safety factor of 1.15-2.00 at some lateral load to make sure everything should work without buckling. Until then, I have two separate designs, one utilizing Mustang II style cross-shaft mounting structures and one using Maier’s. The main difference being the orientation of the cross-shaft mounting bolts to the boxed-structure with the Mustang II’s bolts facing down, and Maier’s facing sideways. With the bolts facing sideways relative to the longitudinal axis of the chassis, side load is transmitted into the boxed structure through the bolts on their axial axis as opposed to their shear axis. Bolts do not like shear, however the Mustang II design is insanely popular so I suppose I could be overthinking this. Maier Cross Shaft Mounting Design Cortex/Mustang II Cross Shaft Mounting Design Methodology Starting with a 3D scan of the 240z that I re-topologized into ~10000 quads, I modeled an accurate-enough solid body of the fender well and shock tower. From there, I (roughly) modeled the Apex Engineered LCA (will probably try to use the T3 ones I currently have installed on the car as they are boxed structures), the Penske 8300 coilover at ride height, and upper control arm. You may have noticed the bottom of the shock clipping into the LCA, please ignore that, you didn't see that. In regards to swaybars, I will try to get the OEM sway bar design to work with my suspension, however due to the bottom of the shock being mounted on the LCA roughly where the swaybar links, this may be difficult to engineer. I could copy Maier’s LCA design, using a bent-tubular lower arm picture here: Moving forward, it might be easier to design my own boxed structure and try to mount a blade-style sway bar instead. Procurement While there's going to be a lot of custom laser cut metal from SendCutSend, I wanted to keep this kit as OTS as possible. I am not particularly interested in spending buku-bucks on one-off billet parts nor am I keen on dipping my feet into scaled automotive aftermarket product design & manufacturing. That being said, the spindles will likely need to be entirely custom if I can't find an alternative OTS. If I can find an upright on the market that fits my criteria I will definitely go for that, I’m trying to avoid using a Mustang 2 spindle as its shorter than I’d like it to be and completely wastes my steering knuckles and 370z spindles supplied from Apex Engineered (though steering knuckles and spindles are relatively cheap). Next Steps The complete version 1 of this design will be complete soon. Once I've finished my spindle and boxed structures the real work starts, articulating the design through all of its axes of rotation and movement will reveal conditions of binding and the dynamic geometries of the suspension. I started work on this project about a week or two after I placed my order for Apex Engineered SLA kit and have been doing it in my free time which is quite difficult to come by. God willing I shall endure.

Ok, well back from the EFI conversion posts, back to just regular fun stuff posts. I decided to try custom length spark plug wires again. I ordered a set of the wire "cranes" from Lonely Driver Company and then ordered a set of 8.5 wires form Amazon and installed them today. As the pics show, it made more of a difference than I thought.

Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. It is B+ only. No ground. It connects to the + terminal of the battery. Accessaries draw fused power from the fuse box. Each accessary is grounded to the chassis.

Luigi: I used a $70 "universal" power window kit that can be obtained on Amazon or eBay. A current Amazon vendor is JDMSPEED. This is quite similar to the SPAL that was marketed some years ago. What I found in my research was that several marketers offer the almost, if not, identical units on these shopping sites. As the units are all made in China - perhaps by the same manufacturer - this kind of makes sense. It's like every corner convenience store selling M&Ms. Earlier this year I started collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update and expand a thread he created in 2006 on the Classic Zcar Club website www.classiczcars.com). I decided to alter the wiring so that just two switches are used and the controls are mounted on the sides of the center console. The article has kind of stalled out as I went on to do other things on my car but I swear I'll get it done and posted there before year's end. In the meanwhile, here's a photo of the drive unit installed in the left door of my car. The drive unit is on the lower left and the "engagement gear" is on the right. It has plenty of power to work the window mechanism but, my goodness, you absolutely must have the window track alignment perfect or it binds up.

Hopefully you are converting to all SAE / AN brake fittings. It's a real pain to have a mix of metric and SAE. I routed my brake lines inside the cabin to get the brake lines away from heat. I'm running a Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and use a proportioning valve installed on the drive shaft tunnel.

Has anyone been following the progress of these engines? The aftermarket is starting to really grow for this engine. "divlac57" is the guy who has been spearheading a lot of this Anyone else watching any of this come about??

I found it just by digging around online. Wilwood makes the assembly, allows me to run two different sized master cylinders for front and back, and on top of that the horizontal bolt close to the firewall allows me to adjust brake bias between the cylinders, lots of adjustability. It comes with this cable so I can adjust the brake bias from inside the car. Yes, all new brake lines. I bought pre-bent hard lines and some distribution blocks. Once I get the rear suspension off, I’ll replace the lines, then figure out how to attach the cylinders, probably get some flexible stainless steel lines for that.

I've used these....

That is an interesting master cylinder set-up. I haven't seen that before. I assume that you will be running all new brake lines.

It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing.

It can be confusing when talking about technical areas vs car model areas, but we do have the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum here: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/16-ignition-and-electrical/. Yes, I think it's fairly common to add new circuits/etc to these old cars. I've done it to the last couple of my cars to simplify/improve the electrical capabilities over the stock harness. I've always used off-the-shelf breakers, relays, fuse panels, switches; but there are a bunch of pre-built kits that are available through numerous vendors. I like to use marine hardware if I can find it; as it's typically extra beefy and durable. Good luck with it; and please be sure to post your results once completed!!

Got the front coilovers and the dual master cylinder assembly on today. Still too hot out for working on the car here, I can’t wait until it cools down. A few challenges with each, but got it on right. Was hoping to start tearing down the rear, but I’ll give that a go next weekend.

I have had a lot of problems with the throttle cable and related parts. a late night job came up with an extremely basic solution for cable hookup at the carb....I made a bracket and got a brass cable stop at Auto Zone, and the gas pedal bottom edge hitting the floor keeping full range from happening were the culprits. FIXED.

Datsun 240Z RB30 oil pan For my 1972 240Z, I wanted to create a reliable big horsepower streetcar capable of 800-1000 HP. To meet those goals I choose RIPS Racing whom has the proven track record in creating reliable high HP street cars, exactly what I was wanting. One of the issues I faced was that Robbie of RIPS had lost his template for a rear high-capacity oil pan for a 240Z swap. There does not seem to be any good oil pans for a 240Z RB swap. If you are building a big horsepower RB engine to be swapped into a 240Z PLEASE BE CAREFUL AS I PERSONALLY DO NOT THINK THERE ARE ANY GOOD PANS AVAILABLE AND YOU WILL NEED TO GO HAVE A CUSTOM OIL PAN MADE! Here is my sad experience thus far... After spending weeks online reviewing so many oil pans only to find that all of them were not adequate based on RIPS observations. I found this one JHK pan from U.P. Garage that appeared that it might work so I took a chance after they told me it would work, https://upgarageusa.com/collections/jhk-oil-pans/products/jhk-rear-sump-rb-cast-oil-pan When I received it, I shipped it straight to RIPS as I did not want to undo their professional packing. I did not open the box, as I just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Unfortunately when it arrived to New Zealand it was damaged. I told Eric, & Doug @ UP Garage via email, The oil pan you shipped to me was damaged. I did not open the box, as just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Additionally, Rob told me that this design would not work as there is insufficient clearance between the oil tube and also between the baffle and engine. I have attached pictures and an MP4 where Robbie shows the box damaged before fully opening it. This was an unfortunate expensive mistake as it cost me over $700 to ship it only to find out it was damaged and would not have been a good pan for my application. When I get my fully built engine towards the later part of this year Robbie will send your pan and I can return it. I would hope that I get a refund. Now we need to source a better pan that has more oil capacity, and a better design to provide the oil flow needed for my engine. On a phone call UP Garage said it was my fault for not opening the box before I shipped it to New Zealand. I told them I examined the box it was not damaged in anyway, so I reshipped it without opening it in order to not disturb their packaging, but they still denied any liability. I then sent them the following email, Eric, & Doug, I sent the pics you texted me to Robbie, and I am glad he explained the issues technically with the oil pan. Doug was telling me that your pan would work fine on a more stock build but reading Robbie’s great explanation, I doubt that would be the case on my 2 WD RB block. Regardless, the oil pan was damaged and if you feel that it can be resold to someone as Doug stated, I will send it to you after I receive my complete engine with the damaged oil pan from RIPS. You are specializing in a local RB market would be better suited to find a new home for this oil pan than me here in Northern CA. Doug claimed it should be easy to sell it as the damage was cosmetic, then it would make sense that afterward you resell the oil pan, you could reimburse me for my purchase or at least most of that cost. U.P. Garage sent this email to RIPS, We are, and have been, huge fans of your hard work to bring HP to the RB world!! So glad that the JHK pan has found it's way to your examination table. Here are the measurements we have taken on the RB25(rear drive block) screen configuration. Keep up the great work!! Feel free to call us: +1 253 565 9823 Doug/Erik Fatty Fat Cat www.upgarageusa.com From: RIPS Racing The pictures you have sent are not from a 2wd block, they are from a AWD block, possibly a RB26 with the longer AWD pickup. The measurements you have are with the pickup you have on your block and quite different to the measurements I have with the pickup and oil pan I have received. As stated, with the pickup bolted on (without a gasket) the pan will not go down all the way to the block, the pickup screen is holding the sump up a little bit meaning the screen is already touching the bottom of the sump before its even bolted down flat. There should be about 10mm clearance when the sump is bolted down meaning as it is, bolting the sump down will put load on the pickup and be squashing the screen and the tube inside the screen will be pretty much hard against the floor of the sump meaning a massive restriction in oil flow. RIPS also sent them this email, Hi, Just to add to this, with the oil pickup installed on the block (even without a gasket) the sump would not sit flat on the block, the oil pickup was ever so slightly holding it up so the screen on the pickup was hard against the bottom of the oil pan. This means if the sump was bolted up tight the pickup tube itself (inside the screen) would also be basically hard up against the bottom of the sump meaning major restriction is oil flow. There should be around 12-15mm clearance between the end of the oil pickup tube and usually around 5mm clearance between the screen and the bottom of the oil pan. As it was supplied there is no way it could have worked and would have surely led to an engine failure.

Coilovers showed up today 🤩. Got them assembled and will get the fronts on the car tomorrow.

Looks good and sounds good. Wouldn’t buy without a test drive though, he’ll start it though right? Hopefully just fluids and new tires and you should be good to go. Good luck!

The tranny/rear is a trade off. You really dont want to shift to 5th at 120+mph. The wind resistance will drop you 10+ mph and if you are not in power band you will not accelerate much after that. Not good for Daytona. Rule of thumb is the more peaky your engine is, the closer tranny ratios you need to keep it in power band. The other rule is select gearing to be well into power band or just over in top gear, top speed. Depending on engine you may need a different rear/and or tire ratio to run Daytona, it is different than other tracks. Many club racers run the final 1000-2000 ft at redline, but that can be risky.

I used his list plus a angled bearing plate from jegs or summit for like 10 bucks. I couldn't use the location he used. Still a work in progress so Ill post when i get it all welded up. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124248-steering-shaft-relocation/

I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gas. The previous owner mentioned that that was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention that). I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR. I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil with a 0,5 ohm one.

Hi mate, Low profile alloy air cleaner top with a carbon fibre air cleaner with the collection point in front of the radiator. Flexible rubber joiner between the alloy top hat and the carbon fibre air cleaner. The alloy piece is only about 2.5 inches high. Just another idea for cold air induction. Regards David.

Adam Sylvester at Datsun Rescue or Jenny at Junkyard Jenny's.

Its already fixed. I have these unusual gnose wide body panels i think are fairly aero efficient. So really the only decisions are if I want to run a cowl induction hood vs. standard no vents. And tall rear 7" spoiler vs whale tail. Input is welcome. Leaning standard hood and big spoiler. Working on mounting these NOW.

@jhm. I appreciate that, Ive been putting out feelers on a few Z car forums trying to locate one, I know its sort of an obscure and delicate piece but its worth a shot anyway

I was able to squeeze in a little time today and build a brace to hold my carb and intake up. Heim joints and all thread.

Small update: Completed reverse engineering of the Cortex spindle, nice design and less tall than I anticipated. Unsure how I feel about the ~1.5-2" drop design but it will have to do for now until I can get everything articulating nice. Next step is designing a 17" wheel as it seems like all the models I'm getting off GrabCAD are not to spec. For the inboard UCA pickups, I'm at the point where I'm just trying to choose an angle for the UCA, the consensus is ~7° though I've seen some guys on the Locost forums go up to 10-15°. From my conversation with Maier, I remember him mentioning anywhere in the 15° range is too high for these kinds of cars. Anyway, back to the books for me.

Wow, cool stuff. That's a real bummer about the AE kit, considering the investment; but I guess this approach gives you the freedom to go wild and do whatever you want! I like your idea of an adjustable blade-style sway bar...this has been on my to-do list for a couple years, and just haven't gotten around to it. You may want to consider the NASCAR-style mounting, above the engine. Makes the adjustment linkages and hardware a lot easier to engineer and fabricate. Good luck with it!! 👍👍

What you're missing is that that the Holley lights have two +12v receptacles and one ground receptacle. The stock wiring harness supplies one constant +12v feed and two switched ground feeds. By using a simple wiring adapter you could make it work with either high or low beams, but the stock switch wouldn't work both High and Low beams properly because all it can do is switch ground on and off. If you didn't want to use his method of rewiring the light switch, you'd have to use two relays to supply 12v High and 12v Low to the LED bulbs, and the common terminal would go directly to Ground. Does that make sense?

To add bushings to the front mount (they did add that) To properly bush the diff mount (not done) To change the brace so it fits in a 240z without smashing the spare tire(not done) Then a number of things about suspension optimisation such as what was posted in this thread.

Small update, I've moved to a new thread on designing my own front SLA suspension. Regarding the OTS kit from AE, its nice, the tubular front cross member is perhaps the best of its kind on the market. Part of me wishes they used slot-nuts instead of their current configuration but its not a huge deal. Interesting, sorry to hear. I find their rear suspension pretty well designed, the rocker ratio is 1:1 which is not great but nothing you can't fix by making your own. Though for $4000, I feel it should've been disclosed at the very least. Their new packaging system for hardware is great, though their shipping packaging is quite bad. Their customer support offered to replace some parts that were damaged in shipping, need to follow up to check what the ETA on those RMA'd part is. Regards to you giving them feedback, not surprising. I've also tried starting a technical discussion with them that they didn't seem super interested in, understandable they're running a business and are more concerned with keeping the doors open than answering questions from a guy that already paid them lol. These guys are developing kits for a bunch of Datsun/NIssan chassis, and now the E36 chassis so I doubt they have a lot of time for guys like us.

Jam nut for toe arm came in, dumb that it’s the only hardware that doesn’t come with the kit. New brake lines came in too. I might take this Friday off to finish up the suspension, and hopefully start on brakes.

Can anyone provide copies of the build sheets for an Alpha 1 GTO kit? I bought mine in 1992 as installed on a '78 by Automotive Concepts in NC. For some reason the cowl cover was filled in to the surround so it is not removable and access to the cowl is limited to a slot from the engine compartment. Now I have water leaks to the interior and need to figure out the intended drain routing and/or alternatives. Would like to make the cover removable again, but don't know why it was done this way originally. Also, I installed a SBC over a number of years (I am a retired engineer, do my own work and had to replace floor pans, redo wiring, clean up the engine compartment, etc., etc., etc.). Now I need to recalibrate the tach with limited access behind and would like to know how the kit dash was put together and installed. So, build sheets would be very helpful for these and other "opportunities" to come, plus to add to my massive files. I have worked through many issues on my own and can provide suggestions and pictures to those interested. Thank you.

Got a few more things on today. This kit has tons of adjustability, just making some initial guesses on caster, bumpsteer, etc. a little bit of a puzzle with the hardware, some things you only needed if keeping stock subframe or other stock parts. I hope to have the rest installed next weekend.

Heat advisory today, and I believe it, damn it’s hot. Started off replacing studs with APR extended studs then attaching 370Z wheel bearings to the custom spindle, did all that in the AC. Then to the outside, unboxed all the front suspension and got subframe, new plate for control arms and upper control arms up. Stupid plate was near impossible to install. It’s perfectly shaped to frame, bolt holes don’t align when carriage bolts are up, and plate doesn’t align and fit on when carriage bolts are down. Took forever halfway adjusting it, having my dad tap carriage bolts from top while I’m holding and aligning from bottom. Nightmare, but finally got it on. Hopefully the rest will go smoother. Did I mention I’m exhausted

just finished +6000km euro trip, whew it was hot down there. Would have been sweaty in datsun. found this type of momo steering wheels on sale in germany but they didnt ship to finland. ordered leather and suede versions to my friend in berlin and pick them up later.

Good evening gents I got my first inspection cleared with some minor things to fix so now i have five years to finish the build (he wanted to see me at the end of August ) . With that done i was able to pain all the weld, start interior work and mount the Datsun back up again, sooooo, it's done just waiting for my half shafts. The half shafts is actually the only thing that keeps me from a test run. Brakes, clutch are bled, emergency brake mounted, it's pretty much only interior work that has to be done Cheers Christian

Here is a quick way to check the polarity and the high low switch. Use a voltmeter and ground the negative side of the meter to the car ground. Take the positive lead and touch it to the center of the high low switch. You should have positive +12V with the headlight switch turned on. The low beam wire (Red/Yellow) is at the top and the high beam is (Red/White) at the bottom. The positive +12v will toggle between the two when the turn signal switch is toggled. I enclosed the switch and labeled the different terminals. If that is correct check the polarity at the headlight plug. You should have one ground and +12V at low beam and +12v at high beam. One other thought is check the fuse block and make sure the two headlight fuses are good. You will have one for the left and on for the right light. Hope it helps.

MinneZota, I am not sure what you wires you are showing in the picture, so it hard for me to determine what was cut. From the instructions above you do not need to cut any wires or connectors for the swap. You must make the ATO fuse jumper wire and the small jumper wire pictured in the instruction above. By using the two jumper wires you made this allows you to plug them in the existing harness and swap the main red and black wires pictured. This changes the polarity for the LED headlights to work correctly. You can message me I can walk you through it.

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

I had some time in the laser today so i decided to make new mounts for my seats😀. More on this later as they have no priority and are" a bit " of neerd warning. As the engine is 6.2 litre why not make it a 620Z😎

Thank you guys. Since I finished this body restauration, I started my new job in a body shop. This project brought me toch a New level. The door mirror is nog vibrating since I untighten the screw.