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Showing most liked content since 01/17/18 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  2. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  3. 1 point
    This is how you lift a head off with a helper. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note assistant was present to photodocument the process. This really should be put in the FAQ, the pictures make it so much clearer, huh?
  4. 1 point
    Really enjoyed the write up in this month's issue of NASA Speed News, great work Tom! https://drivenasa.cld.bz/NASA-Speed-News-Volume-7-Issue-1-February/70/
  5. 1 point
    All clean and freshly painted a pair of 240z front hubs with all new TEMKIN seals and bearings racers already installed. $150 shipped to your front door. Thanks, Juan.
  6. 1 point
    Let me know when you're ready to install another
  7. 1 point
    I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  8. 1 point
    Hell- if you willing to spend that money , buy one of Datsun Works heads and something truly special
  9. 1 point
    Now you just need a Braille battery with a custom Skillard battery box.🙄
  10. 1 point
    Hi Guys, there is big differances with CVs. If parts wern't heat treated they would self destruct in no time. My kit is priced the way it is as I only use good quality parts. This is the CVs I use in my kit. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174M-28M As you can see they are $265.00 each that's almost a 1/3 of the cost of my kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html Joe
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words Vanilla. I spent most of the day today getting the passenger side door hoop bent. It really fought me. To make it fit decently, bends in multiple planes are necessary, and each subsequent bend affects the angles of prior bends. It had me pulling my hair out, but on my fifth try I was finally satisfied with the fit. And of course, all the FAILS:
  12. 1 point
    1. What year is your Z? 2. Did you check the fuse panel? 3. Typically, the problem you have is caused by the turn signal and/or the light switch. Many "how to" posts on switch repair here and on the internet. 4. Information: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/ Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf
  13. 1 point
    Hey, that's me! Message sent. Thanks for looking out everyone.
  14. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  15. 1 point
    Best to start a new thread for this as not to clutter up his build thread
  16. 1 point
    $3600 for the Pandem (RB) kit from Greddy, so all said and done they are probably comparable in price, shipped and everything. I quite like the Speedforme kit as it's not *too* over the top, the car is still very much a S30, just with some flair and modern touches. Anyone that buys one will certainly win points for uniqueness too, since I doubt anyone in North America is running one, whereas I have seen a few Pandem and Moonbeam kits already. I never liked the rear valance on the Speedforme kit though - it doesn't seem to match the subtleness of the rest of it - so I did a quick photoshop altering it to make it cleaner. Less holes and less busy looking.
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