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Showing most liked content since 08/25/17 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  2. 1 point
    The printer said they were scheduled to run last Friday and then they have to ship the order to me. Hope that I'll get them by the middle of next week so I can pack and ship on the 18th. Give it a week to get to you guys and I'm thinking everyone should receive their stuff by the 25th.
  3. 1 point
    Yeah, regarding the boxer swap, until someone actually gets it done and running, I'm not counting it. The purple V8 car you're talking about is the same one I was referring to, BTW. It belongs to a guy named Kevin Mackrell. I managed to find the other one I was talking about. The track width and wheel base make it look really wonky. http://jdm-culture.com/adree-hamid-r32-in-disguised-s30-240z/ Also, while looking, I managed to find mention of a third AWD Z, posted on this very forum. This one actually looks really impressive. Fourth post, by OlderThanMe.
  4. 1 point
    After talking with MSA they mentioned that one other way to differentiate between front and rear is the front spring should have about 10.5 coils and the rear should have about 12.5. If you look at the pictures the shorter spring has more coils (12.5). I think this is why some people give wrong information e.g. saying the rear spring should be the longer one when they probably mean the rear spring should be the one with more coils. Correct me if I'm wrong. In summary I think the following is what I've decided: Front spring: Par tnumber: 6305.001 Relative height/length: longer than the rear spring Number of coils: 10.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. Rear spring: Part nubmer: 6305.202 Relative height/length: shorter than the front spring Number of coils: 12.5 Orientation: Wider spaced coils towards the bottom, or 'Eibach' logo readable. I still don't know why my front springs have an ever so slight outward bow to them. I installed the second one last night and it's not quite as bowed but still is a little.
  5. 1 point
    You do not have a proportioning valve problem. You have a MC push rod issue. The "distribution block" is called a brake switch and all it does is turn a light on if the front or rear brake circuit looses pressure. Leave it alone. You do not need an adjustable proportioning valve unless you will be racing and experimenting with brake pads. The brake set up you have is biased towards the front (70% F - 30% R). So reducing rear pressure will make your brakes perform worse. Your brakes are locking up because the push rod that goes into the MC is adjusted too far out. It should be adjust so that it just about touches the bottom of the depression on the end of the piston. The rod is preventing the piston from fully retracting which is causing the piston to cover the fluid return ports for the tanks. So each time you you step on the brakes you are filling the calipers, but the fluid can't flow back out. Do the following: Relieve the pressure by opening the MC bleeders. Keep the wrench in the car. You don't have to remove the MC. Just remove the two nuts and pull the MC away from the booster and push it aside. To adjust the push rod, hold the rod with needle nose pliers etc and use a small wrench to turn the adjustment nut inward a bit. NOTE: If you pull the push rod too far out you may drop the reaction disk into the bottom of the booster and your brakes will not work until you replace it. You will be sad. The push rod on my MC is about 13 to 15 mm out as measured from the tip of the adjuster to the face of the spacer block. Staying close to home drive the car and brake several times and drive around. Note: if the brakes are dragging (dragging = push rod too long) or if the pedal travel is too long (long pedal = push rod too short). If the brakes lock up, use the wrench you used on the MC bleeders and relieve the fluid pressure. Drive home and readjust the push rod one or two turns: Turn in (shorten) if brakes drag/lock up or Turn out (lengthen) if brake pedal is too long. Repeat until it is perfect. Write down the measurement of the rod each time you adjust it. Save the final measurement.
  6. 1 point
    I have been testing the new server and forum software upgrade for a few weeks now and things have gone much better than I expected.. The move will start this coming Thursday morning 08-31-2017 and is expected to take about 6 hours to complete. The site will be inaccessible during the move and upgrade When the site becomes accessible again there are background rebuild process that will being running over the next few days to finalize the upgrade. Expect to see little glitches here and there during this time. Things like images disappearing, text formatting looking funny, search not working etc. Once these processes are complete I will post a note about it a create a support thread so any issues you guys have can posted. Know Your Password Make darn sure you know what your password is for your account and that your email address is up to date. DO THIS NOW!!! We cannot stress this enough. You may be required to login to the new forum once the site is back up. We know most of you stay permanently logged into the site and may have forgotten your password so you need to take care of that now.* Make Sure Your eMail Account is Current Make sure your email is up to date. This is the only way the system and the admins can communicate with you. Its the ONLY way password resets can be performed. Make sure your spam filter is not blocking emails from hybridz.org. This is very important because sending the admins requests to reset your password will most likely end up in the trash for security reasons. This is especially true if you send an email to an admin from an email account that is different than the one listed in your account profile. *Note about Facebook Login Recently there has been an issue with user trying to use Facebook to login to HybridZ. This issue will be resolved with the new version of the forum software. It was a change to the Facebook API that is not compatible with our current forum software.
  7. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
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