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Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes

I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R

Contacted him via facebook and he responded almost immediately. Would recommend this route if you still can't reach him. Brad

I can't tell you how many times I have watched your Youtube videos and had a smile from ear to ear with the sound of your car ZRedBaron.... Amazing!!!

$2995 can’t see myself paying that when there are other companies with great stuff like azc, techno, silvermine. The guys at Sema loved the z car garage brakes, but $2995.

Thank you!

YEH!!! I got it solved! - I had short linked to ignition black blue and black yellow, as my "s" on ignition was not getting switched. From the measurements I noticed that via the ignition coil, 12volts is also active back from the black-blue in the "on" setting. Due to the short link, the pump/injection relais switched both relais at the same time, causing a mess in that control circuit. - I fixed the ignition switch first, and got that sort of solved (bad chinees replica) - Now still no power in the pump, with the strange things as described before - I started pulling plugs again, and then I also noticed the seat belt warning light was off. I disconnected the seat belt (which i had locked months ago to avoid the beep), and tried again. Suddenly I got the beep-beep sound again. - Tried it the ignition again , and it worked!!! I think the seat belt relais was stuck and causing some leak, and that together with the bad switching on the relais from the bad ignition switch, and my short link. Now I got my fuel pump working, and engine running (after an explosion in my improvised air intake hose, due to starter fluid). Engine starts nice, but drops after 5 seconds. Think my fuel level is too low. Man...! lots of fuel is needed to be put into that tank before the outflow nozzle is reached from totally empty. Thx for all the help, and I' m sure I will need some more soon:-) Joost

You want to do the exact opposite to this taller driver who had to get an extension to keep the wheel close enough with the pedals as far away as practical. For mine it was all about getting the seat and driver back for better weight distribution.

You're talking about an early S30 - 1970-1976, right? Not a '77-'78? The rotating mechanism in the earlies can get sticky over the years and the grease turns solid. A temporary fix is to lube the rotating mechanism on the outside of the door with some spray lube. Overdo it - turn by hand and release until it rotates smoothly and easily. The real fix is to take apart the door, remove the entire mechanism to completely clean and re-lube it before re-installing...

Your continuity tests might be confusing you. Better to measure resistance. And study the wiring diagram. If you look at the diagram I posted before you can see that Pin 34 is the ground circuit for the air regulator. And it's on the same circuit as the power supply for the pump. So if you measure continuity you are measuring back through the air regulator to ground. The pump ground wire is also connected to ground. So they are connected, circuit-wise, but only via a common ground and common power supply. The pump and air regulator are branches on the same circuit. If you measured resistance instead of continuity you'd probably get about 60 ohms,that's about what the air regulator heating element is. If you don't get 60 ohms then you might have a wire that has shorted directly to ground. It might also have destroyed your relay, or blown the fusible link. I would take a few more measurements, check your fusible links, and look for a wire with broken insulation.

If you measured 9 volts on one of the wires that is about right (actually it's low but it should still run your pump), with the voltage drop from the starter. You tested the pump and it works. That leaves the ground. Edit 2 - rethinking the 9 volts. That's pretty low even with the starter draw. Seems like the battery needs charging before further testing. It's not really clear why you were measuring continuity when all you needed was voltage and ground. If you disconnect the yellow wire at the starter solenoid you can get power to the pump without the engine turning over. The fuel pump will get power at Start but the starter won't. Makes it easier for testing. You can hear the fuel pump.

I figured that would be the answer. I saw that some of the trucks had the drillless mounts. For now I’ll keep it off on the z thanks again

I think you deserve your own thread, it has deviated a bit from the original poster and all. Let me know if you want assistance in copying posts and moving them over. For the record well done. Testing and looking for faults BEFORE putting it out there while gathering feedback by public posting. At a good price point I'm sure you will have people very interested.

There is lead filler at the joint between the roof and the rear quarter, as well as at the bottom of the A pillar. Because the car is fairly flexible, both places have been known to develop cracks in the lead filler. That's what you're seeing.

Hey Wayne, thanks very much for that generous offer; but I'm going to take a pass for now.....still have a few used gauges of my own I'm trying to sell. If I see anyone looking for tach and speedo, I'll be sure to send them your way!

Sweet, looks really nice, congratulations.

The car has only been out twice since the V8 swap, and this course was much more favorable to the high hp rear drivers so there was a lot more high rpm/rev limiter stuff going on. But yes, this is the first time this has happened. Course was about even right to lefts, maybe a few more rights, but not a lot more.

Still for sale, new price $10,900 or best offer

When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do. Good grief what a lot of work. If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill. Great job. I seem to have said this before on the thread. Keep posting pictures, I hope I speak for others, we love to see the progress. Richard.

If you use the s12+8 calipers from the later years, they were machined to fit vented roters like the s12w ones but have smaller cylinders making for more of around 57% to 43%. This is what I run and am very happy with the setup.

A little update

Go to your local community and sign up for a welding class. They usually aren't that expensive are incredibly valuable for a person with no experience welding. Afterwards you'll have a skill.

I searched this topic myself for a long time and finally bit the bullet and went with 225/50 15 Toyo Proxes R888r. I do not like the thread pattern on the Kuhmo all season tires so this was the only option at a decent price. I don't think I will be taking this car to the track any time soon but I really like the look of this setup and I needed to get new tires when I bought the car. Instead of spending money for tires on the original Mag wheels I just got wheels and tires all at once. I know these tires will not last many miles, but I don't plan on daily driving this car. I don't know why it was difficult to get examples of the fitment on 15x8 Rota RKRs being as it's such a popular setup for 240zs (S30s in general). My car was lowered on Tokico 1050 springs (discontinued) I'm not sure what the drop is as it was done by previous owner. I did have to roll the rear fenders a bit as there is a bit of rub when it goes over bumps. Excuse the dirty car. Ed.

Traced all the wires from the ignition and the TIU and it looks like it's a deadend box just like the voltage regulator which I've already removed. Since all my wires are ready to go from the directions in the JTR book, I think it's safe to keep the TIU box out of the loop. Thanks for the help guys. Also, kudos to to a guy (wal280z) over on classiczcars.com who recreated the wiring diagram for a 77 280Z using autocad. I was able to print out a full size version in grayscale to have in front of me and also had the hires image in color on my screen to refer to. Made it a lot easier to follow. And full size means I had to tape together 12 pages of printout (49" across). Well worth the extra time to do that.

Well I changed out the valley cover for LS6 which has integrated baffled and restricted PCV. I plugged the valve covers and ran the valley cover PCV direct to the manifold. I have a catch can on order, but it didn't arrive in time for me to hit another autox. This one was wet and the car saw neither high rpms nor high g loads. After the morning runs with Mark Haag as a co-driver, everything seemed fine but we pulled the hood, and there it was: oil all over. Brand new part torqued to spec and everything. Borrowed a leak down tester from a friend. The motor still makes plenty of power, but thinking maybe blowby with load or something. Anyway will report back. Fast car driving slowly: <iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FJon.E.Mortensen%2Fvideos%2F2059742714072074%2F&show_text=0&width=560" width="560" height="315" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>