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  1. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  2. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  3. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  4. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  5. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  6. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  7. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  8. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  9. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  10. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  11. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  12. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  13. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  14. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  15. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  16. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  17. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  18. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  19. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  20. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  21. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  22. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  23. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  24. The idea behind the spindle locking pin is that it is an extra safety mechanism. If you lose one or both nuts and washers on the spindle pin it can't slide out, assuming you have one that can actually be removed without the use of a large press. I have used a bolt in mine an no pin or similar mechanism and have no plan to ever again. That said I do regular bolt/nut checks on my car as part of their maintenance, which a large portion of the public think is either silly or a complete waste of time. Probably the same people who shouldn't be driving an old car without all the modern nannies or
    1 point
  25. Go for it. Take some pictures, it will be good entertainment. Are we talking Sawzall, hacksaw, file, grinder? Make a video. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD11S6PC357322 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S4RC354902 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S0MC421925
    1 point
  26. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  27. Great points! If its just a matter of noise, im going to pass on the rubber. Great point on the angular change... I didn't think of that till just now.
    1 point
  28. IMHO, stainless steel is one of the most difficult (if not THE most difficult) material to work with for brake and fuel lines. The hardness of SS makes it more difficult to get leak-free connections as compared to softer metals. If the leaks are on the smaller/slower side, you may be able to resolve via loosening and tightening several times....helping the metal to take a "set" within the connection. It also helps to do this with the fixture unbolted from its mounting point (e.g. leave the Master Cylinder unbolted, or at least loose, on the brake booster when tightening the front and rear l
    1 point
  29. the girls.pdf Hello, My name is Mike. I live in Gulfport MS and work in Charleston SC (for now). I've had this 1978 280 Z for about 3 years. It hadn't run for over 15 years when I got it. I had it running in a weekend …. And then the work began. I've actually got a line on one more in Mo but that's a different story. I love old cars and the challenge that they are to make them the jems that they use to be.
    1 point
  30. Progress has been slow but the car can be pushed around right now Work on wiring up the gauges, wiring harness etc is basically under way now. The frame for the fuel cell needs a couple more brackets and powder coat. Getting pretty close to sending back for paint Silicone intake hoses are probably coming out...but wanted to show a picture of where it is at.
    1 point
  31. I'd be interested to hear a more in depth discussion of why mounting the diff and rear control arms to the two largest pieces of hardware in the rear of the car (that go through the rear frame rails) isn't such a good idea? Maybe something that integrates the locating holes. On my car, the factory dropdowns were woefully inadequate. Pretty flexy in lateral loading, the only real thing preventing shift was pressure from the opposite wheel. It's even been suggested by several members on my build thread to connect the factory mustache bolts to the rear control arm pickup points for a
    1 point
  32. Twin turbo and twin injectors are a bit out dated lately. Has it been a while since you have looked into tuning? Times have kind of moved on with more advanced ECU's that can handle large CC injectors at low idle, something like the 750cc you will most likely require shouldn't need a smaller injector for idle or anything of that nature. Twin rear mount on an inline 6 just seems gratuitous. A modern single turbo will have adequate spool characteristics or you can cheat with a QSV, but running two same sized turbos ala FD RX7, TT Supra, or the TT subaru that spool one then both at different time
    1 point
  33. Super late update. Got everything out, swapped the steering column over, all the new bushings up front are in. The one motor mount fought me for a while but I got it. The kid helped me install the new TTT TC rods and jacked the crossmember into place for me. She really digs helping with the car for 15-20 minutes at a time. Hahaha. New clutch and lighter flywheel are on, motor is in, harness should be good. Im having issues starting it without starter fluid and it dies after that runs out. Injectors are all spraying, I even tried with a brand new fuel pump fed from a can, still no
    1 point
  34. In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choi
    1 point
  35. People with actual eyes can usually see that this thread is over 8 years old.
    1 point
  36. So I checked over the suspension and yes, there are definitely needle bearings in the top hats below the camber plates. I have bearings for the springs on order so I'll see if they help. Yes sir, I was talking about those. I realize now those bearings aren't actually dealing with rotation of the shock body directly. I'm going to be heading to the alignment shop again soon, as I have installed some adjustment in the rear I would like to dial in. I'll ask them to take a look at the fronts again once I install the bearings and new bump stops.
    1 point
  37. Not a JCR whale tale, but it’s still pretty cool. GLWS
    1 point
  38. Good catch. Thank you for pointing that out.
    1 point
  39. Thanks for the welcome and the heads-up on community vibe. Honestly, my 'home' Datsun forum 'The510Realm' can also have some passionate members. I'm fine with respectful scrutiny as it's often just a 'why' or 'prove' question which is the basis of Critical Thinking and how we eventually engineer improvements - and the birth of these axles to be honest. The 510Realm thread that John linked to above was my coming out party, and the goal was to bring these CVs to the community Datsun gurus to scrutinize to death. Trusted members were given more in-depth engineering background and thei
    1 point
  40. Just getting going on my 260Z rocket bunny build. Starting with a really clean 74' 260 that I picked up in Atlanta. Supposedly sat in a barn for 32 years, and it looked like it probably did. I'm installing a rocket bunny kit and doing a custom airlift performance air bag suspension. I'm documenting the build as I go, you can check it out here if you are interested.
    1 point
  41. VCT Plumbing Got the hardlines mostly done for the intake phaser control. Went well just tedious and time consuming. The bottom two lines are advance and retard and the top two lines are returns. The center is the feed. They are 5/16 OD which gives me an ID that closely matches the Honda circuit. It started off easy and then I remembered that an alternator needed to sit in there. That made things a little more interesting. The bulkhead fittings worked out great. I chose to use soft aluminum tubing for the interio
    1 point
  42. Well, I suppose I should probably update this as it's been awhile. Nothing too huge going on though, just some cosmetic fine tuning in the engine bay. - Replaced all the hardware with fresh yellow zinc plated - New plated water pump pulley, and block off plates. - Made a throttle cable bracket for the Mikunis and eliminated the j-arm that went to the firewall bracket. - Made a new heatshield for the carbs. Bit of a frankenstein's monster, but it seems to work. 2 sheet of aluminium, some Nimbus GII (waffle) between them, and reflective gol
    1 point
  43. The owner of S/N005 sent me this video. Xtreme Cylinder Heads CNC porting. I have no idea why the video is giant. I uploaded it directly to the post Video.MOV
    1 point
  44. Don't know if this will help you but I tossed the stock sliders, cut of the tabs on the 350z seats and welded on threaded studs to the 350z sliders, easy install.
    1 point
  45. Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly
    1 point
  46. getting there, engine is back in, ride height ist still too high but i guess it will settle down.
    1 point
  47. Hi again. On the last two weeks Mr.Vitorino worked on other projects and on the last days he worked in the Z. He started with the doors, and at first they seem in pretty nice shape...but then he found some clues on bad reparations years ago. With this he decided to separate the door panel from the structure and he was right, they need some intervetion. Tons of rust and event the protetion layer was completely cracked. This week I hope he finishes at least one door, because on Thursday I'm going to the shop.
    1 point
  48. I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
    1 point
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