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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in Posts

  1. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  2. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  3. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  4. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  5. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  6. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  7. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  8. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  9. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  10. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  11. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  12. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  13. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  14. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  15. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  16. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  17. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  18. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  19. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  20. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  21. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  22. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
    1 point
  23. I agree, the car isn't running yet so I have no miles on the springs. I will see if they do. I was thinking of solid pillow mounts for the front as an option to lower front.
    1 point
  24. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  25. Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV
    1 point
  26. The u-joints can all be lubed. They might not have a Zerk fitting but they should have the hole with a slotted plug in it. Take the plug out, put a Zerk in, fill them up, and put the plug back in. Inspect the seals and seams closely for rust or looseness. If you do find a bad one, just replace the one. I found that the new aftermarket joints were looser than old Nissan joints.
    1 point
  27. Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
    1 point
  28. battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
    1 point
  29. Super late update. Got everything out, swapped the steering column over, all the new bushings up front are in. The one motor mount fought me for a while but I got it. The kid helped me install the new TTT TC rods and jacked the crossmember into place for me. She really digs helping with the car for 15-20 minutes at a time. Hahaha. New clutch and lighter flywheel are on, motor is in, harness should be good. Im having issues starting it without starter fluid and it dies after that runs out. Injectors are all spraying, I even tried with a brand new fuel pump fed from a can, still no
    1 point
  30. I am. Currently about 12 sets left. I plan on making more if there is a demand.
    1 point
  31. So, with social media the way it is, this kind of relevant and up-to-date information gets lost in the cesspool of Facebook groups. ___________________________________________________________________ This information is up-to-date: Summer 2019 and affects the greater 805 area code. ___________________________________________________________________ I didn't start this thread to discover a good mechanic, but to meet other people with similar interests. With that said, Larry Butler is a very good mechanic. His hobby is 510 racing, and he owns multiple Datsuns. He also
    1 point
  32. Also just a heads up, i won't be able to reply that often so please be patient as I am running this company and a few others and get pulled in various directions. thanks
    1 point
  33. Post a photograph of the engine compartment. From this we can discern whether the original swap was the "JTR method" or the less advantageous non-setback one. If there's rust in the floorboards, almost certainly there is rust elsewhere, in nontrivial amounts. This may or may not require immediate attention, but it does merit jacking up the car (suitably supporting it!) and a thorough examination. Some rust, while annoying, is only cosmetic. This particular car evidently has a 5-lug rear conversion. Does it also have a solid rear-axle conversion? Such a conversion r
    1 point
  34. Excellent on getting the turn signals working! Now on to your headlights. Here is a basic troubleshoots guide I put together for someone else, I believe you have done much of this but take a moment to review it to see if anything in it helps. Here’s a sorta step by step process for checking. 1) Start by checking the Engine bay main fusible links connections. The one closest to the fender (outer) and the front (away from the firewall) is the one that provides power to the headlight switch. These often get tarnished or corroded at the Blade connectors. Once these are cleaned and you’ve
    1 point
  35. Cary (tube80z) has been mentioning this idea of the dual ball joint front end off and on for the last couple years. I hadn't really given it too much thought until I autoxed my car and was really lifting the inside rear tire, and Dan (74_5.0L_Z) suggested that the problem might be scrub radius and caster related. I guess the idea is that the outside wheelbase increases significantly enough due to scrub that the car leans over in that direction and the inside rear comes off the ground. Recently this thread popped up talking about swapping front suspensions and it quickly devolved into a piss
    1 point
  36. Hey gang. I haven't had much time for road testing the 40mm venturis yet (let alone stacks). Still not driveable, so at present, the forecast is testing via 38mm venturis tomorrow unless I pull off a good tune tonight. I have main jets up to 245 now (!) and with 6 sets of emulsion tubes one would think a solid setup is within grasp. Attached is my tentative dyno flow chart: May 2018 Dyno R&D FlowChart.pdf It assumes unlimited time. I don't yet know if I'll be running 38mm venturis or 40mm venturis or both. At some point I will abandon broad data collection an
    1 point
  37. ^ Jim here was able to help me out, thanks all!
    1 point
  38. Here's how my 4 pt roll bar was constructed.
    1 point
  39. technique is way more important than electrode choice in tig welding. Establish your puddle, then start moving the torch. keep arc TIGHT. Feed in filler at appropriate increments, and don't stop the torch for too long otherwise you'll put too much heat into the part. A million billion times more tricky than it sounds.
    1 point
  40. I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around!
    1 point
  41. I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas.
    1 point
  42. I used Hoke Performance 240Z mounts for my late 260Z (280 chassis)with an LS1/T56 and it works fine. Hoke's new 280Z mounts offer more room for the exhaust system, I used Hawks (American Racing) headers and had to downsize the exhaust from the header 3" out to 2 1/2" then back to 3" to feed through the mounts. The 280 mounts should easily fit a full 3" system. It didn't seem to effect my power output though. The steering shaft is a tight fit through the headers too. As far as I can tell it doesn't rub. The other problem I had was the LS1 alternator is different than the LS2 I had to trim
    1 point
  43. Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
    1 point
  44. Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
    1 point
  45. Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support
    1 point
  46. Hi guys, New to the Z world, I just bought this car from a gentleman in Illinois. Seemed like he really cared about the car but had to let it go. I'm not sure if he was a poster on this forum but he did mention it. It's a 1975 280z. Most of this is quoted from the seller's listing. There's a lot more to say but here's the meat and potatoes. 1. 1999 GM LS1 from Trans Am with 118,000 miles, GM unlocked computer, PSI Conversions harness New water pump, oil pump, timing chain, starter, rebuilt injectors (Oside Tiger), fuel pump (MSD), fuel regulator, (Corvette regulator
    1 point
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