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Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.

3 years later... took ages to find a good painter willing to take on the project. These days insurance jobs with small panel fixes seem to be more profitable. Luckily I found someone willing to do it in the summer months of this year while the insurance workload is reduced. Prepping... Overall quite happy with the result. Couldn't contain myself and started puzzling together the undercarriage the first chance I got. Pulled lines in the trans tunnel and assembled the suspension component. On the wheel first the first time since 2017!

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

He's saying although we are launching a DOHC head in 2024 we readily admit it will be pale in comparison the mighty KN20 from Datsunworks. At least that's what I'm hearing.

well old story , but MAG58 was right, mercedes M104 head is possible on a datsun L28 stroked , build is not over but we will see what happens soon bye bye Didier

**UPDATE Went to court yesterday and basically played dumb. Told the judge that "I went to the state ref and he told me since the car is so old that he couldn't do anything to certify it. So how do I go about taking car of this ticket. The vehicle is a pre smog vehicle so I've never had to SMOG it" The judge said "Ok so what Im going to do here is dismiss the case cuz it seems like your car doesn't qualify for an inspection. Sorry about the inconvenience Mr. Soto" I tried to play it cool but I was so happy. After reading all the horror stories from other people about having to revert to stock and all that I was lucky I guess Hope this thread helps someone going through something similar

Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team

So.......it's been 7 years since my last post. The car basically sat in that drive way for a few years then pushed it in the garage for another4 years where the mice got to it. The gas in the tank and lines went to shit. I replaced the fuel pump and got it kind of running again. Obviously having the car sit outside for so long it pretty much ruined everything in the fuel system. This is where a project goes to die .....you lose interest and end up selling for cheap because it doesn't run. Well ......not this time. Last year the house where I was storing it had to be sold so I needed to find a home for it while getting it road worth again. My best friend who lives in Rochester, NY (I'm in Massachusetts) told me to trailer it to his place and we can work on it together. I know that the carbs need to get rebuilt so I decided to send them to Kyusha House. Here is the before pictures. And after Taka's absolutely amazing work.....

Here comes the Project thread that I should've started when I picked up the car in 2021...... Firstly, I'd like to thank the person who has been the biggest help with this car, and who has ended up being one of my best friends, Andrew Mielke (who owns Milkfab Engineering). Without him the car would not be where it is today! His hybridz profile (check out his z) also shameless plug for his business: MilkFab Engineering Z acquisition: I had always wanted an s30 after growing up hearing my dad tell stories about how much he loved the gold 240z he had when him and my mom were dating. Any time we would see them at car shows or out and about i'd be drooling over them. When I started dating my now wife, I noticed a copper colored Z sticking out of a storage building on the road they lived on. Her and her family started jokingly calling it 'my car' due to me staring at it every time we'd drive past. Fast forward 3 years from then, we were married and looking for a house. She gave me a call because as she was driving to her parents house she saw the car outside and they were working on it, asked me if she should stop by and ask about it. I said 'yeah' never expecting it was actually for sale, and when they told her it was and priced it I was super surprised. This was in early 2021 when Z prices were going up dramatically, and she knew that. I told her we shouldn't get it, that it would be unwise since we needed the money for a house down payment, we had no place to put it, etc. BUT, she made me buy it, saying 'You never know if the prices are gonna keep spiking and you never be able to get one....'. So, we bought it, my parents drove over two hours to come pick it up and take it to their house where I could work on it/store it until we had our own place. My wife is a nurse and worked weekends for a while, which meant I spent many a saturday getting up at 5am, heading to my parents, working all day, then driving back in time for dinner. Over the course of 2021 I got the car 'ready' to come home, and we bought a house for it to come home to. The short of it: Where we started (There is probably more than this I'm currently not remembering) L28ET with no E or T round top su carbs lots of electrical gremlins from previous owner cutting random stuff to try and get the car running Radiator support bent from car being wrecked nasty gas tank Where we are now: Frame straightened L28ET with the E and T many fewer electrical gremlins cleaned gas tank coilovers proper race bucket seat (passenger still gets to bounce around in a nb miata seat lol) More posts to come with some build processes, pictures, stories, and more general nonsense.

New to the forum but I wanted to make a summary of my build status/plans for my 1982 280zx. I got the car with 150k miles 7 years ago in a straight up trade for a Kawasaki Ninja 250 (crazy, I know). I was in high school/college for most of that time so my major upgrades had to wait until I got my own garage 2 years ago. Overall goal is an aggressive (~350hp) restomod that I can take to the track occasionally. I've been recording my build progress but only recently went back to edit/upload all of the videos. If you're interested in following along, subscribe to my YouTube! I'll be posting videos every 2 weeks until I'm all caught up on footage. https://www.youtube.com/@engiandesign 2018 (One year after I got the car) January 2023 Engine Bay April 2024 Engine Bay Stripped, and Painted May 2024 Engine Rebuilt July 2024 Engine Bay Mostly Complete Current Mods: Fully rebuilt L28ET Rings, bearings, studs Stock internals Valve job with new valves and seals Cometic MLS head gasket Cam sprocket and timing chain Port and polished head High volume oil pump Schneider stage 2 cam regrind with matching springs, retainers, lash pads and resurfaced rockers Ported exhaust manifold with custom external wastegate piping Tial MVS 38mm wastegate Borg warner S257 SX-e T4 7670 CXRacing Intercooler Kit Mishimoto 25 row oil cooler Mishimoto catch can Champion 3 core radiator FF Dynamics dual electric cooling fans 3.5" cold air intake 240sx 50mm throttle body Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator Upgraded 100 Amp alternator Pallnet fuel rail 1000cc Bosch EV6 injectors Megasquirt MS3x kit from Godzilla Raceworks TSP high flow fuel pump All new glowshift gauges (9 total) CXRacing 3" stainless exhaust modified with X-Force Varex valved muffler Front/rear sway bars 280z style aftermarket air dam Louvers New carpet 4 Infinity 6x9 midrange speakers with 10" Pioneer sub Future Mods Multi-spark ignition CD009 transmission swap Wilwood big brake kit Custom front grill Side skirts Rear diffuser Duck bill spoiler Fender flares Coilovers Rims/tires Seats I'm sure I'm forgetting something on this list but that's pretty much everything. I got it running in July and after a few months of dialing everything in, its finally running great! I'm currently running 9lb of boost on a very conservative tune but it still rips. Luckily my work has a chassis dyno and some very experienced tuners which should help unlock a lot more power. This winter I plan to focus on body work/aesthetics along with rims/tires/suspension. This is my first project car so I welcome any feedback or suggestions, especially related to future mods. Make sure to subscribe to my YouTube for more updates!

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

Bumping zboi's thread so he can continue his contributions to the community. Let's see an update.

I started typing a number of snarky responses and have settled on Wow what a shitty thing to say.

My opinion: Flares because your tires are fat and need room = cool. Skinny tires that should fit stock but spaced way out anyway = not cool. It's in the same vein as camber to me. Negative camber for better handling? Awesome. Crazy negative camber because you want people to know how much camber you have? Stupid.

A few notes before I get into it 1.I am rewiring my car from scratch. So I have no clue what color wires correspond to what pins, or what year switches I am using 70-78 2. I'm not using the stock taillights, I only have an off, high and low signal, all red(Think Semi trailer lights). So the way I wired stuff might be different for you 3.I feel that if you understand the concept of what I am showing below you can adapt what you have to create something similar. I am an idiot when it comes to wiring, but I got this to work for me so feel free to copy it at your own risk haha. This definitely isn't stock Hazard switch (Ignore the PinX stuff for now, That is how I am keeping track of what wire is going to what pin on the connectors I have) I see the hazard switch as the first step in how the power is routed. The switch has two different states (Noted by the vertical dashed line in the image above), on and off, each with it's own outcome. Hazards on: (Right side of above image) 5 Pins should be connected on the switch when the hazard switch is on/closed, use a multimeter to test continuity between all the pins, and note which ones are connected. One of the pins should receive 12v + from a flasher unit (I am using a PDM (Bussman31s002) to get fused 12v power, then putting that into a 3 wire flasher unit that is adjustable to set the timing of the flashes). So when I have my hazard switch on, power flows through the pdm, then into the flasher, into one of the 5 connected pins on the Haz SW, then a wire out to each of the 4 turn signal lights. This also kills all connections to the "Off" side of the switch. In my case, this disables the turn signals, and brake lights. Hazards off: (left side of above image) there are going to be two sets of two pins that are connected when the hazards are off/closed. Use a multimeter, check continuity, write it down. Feed one of the pairs with fused 12v+. The pin that is connected to the 12v+ gets a wire that is spliced into 2 different locations. Location 1 is the brake switch. Location 2 is a second Flasher unit. These two wires then come back together to feed the Turn signal switch, one flashing, one constant. When the switch is in this position, everything on the right side of the above image is no longer connected. Turn Signal Switch The Turn Signal Switch works off of two inputs 12v constant (Connected to 2 pins that should correspond with your Brake lights, and will disconnect from one of the pins if the turn signals are on in that direction) and 12v flashing (Connected to either the front left and rear left, front right and rear right pins, or no pins at all depending on the location of the stalk. So, for me, If my brakes are on, I get a signal to the "high" side of my tail light. WoodworkerB's website is invaluable. I recreated all of his diagrams with the corresponding wire color of my switch to use for my own project. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/ https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ Below I have a schematic of what the whole thing looks like, minus the detail of what the internals of the switches are actually doing, as well as the pinouts. (right most column is where the wire terminates, to its left is where it starts) Looks like the images are tough to read. DM me if you want a full size copy. Let me know if you have questions, or tell me that I'm wrong haha, The harness still in the basement so I would rather fix stuff now than when it is in the car. But as is the lighting system is functional, I pulled out a bunch of stuff to test it all.

Back to work on the Z Turbo car and taking a break on the NA car after finishing up the body work. Time to dry fit the rear suspension for the Turbo Car. Designed and built my own control arms and rear support years and years ago, finally fitting it up. They are 4130 seamless Chromoly that I polished welded then clear powder coated. Here are the rear control arms. I stuck with the standard urethane mounting bushing fror the inner front pivot location, but used really nice Teflon lined Aurora rod ends everywhere else. I had some 6-4 titanium bar drops and plate, so I was feeling creative and made all the big control arm bolts from the titanium Here it is all installed with the brakes and custom parking brake cable as well as custom CV axles, Diff mount and front mount This is a custom front diff mount with a double hump for the duel exhaust that will fit in very nicely. The Diff is an R-200 with 3.70 gears and a Quaife Limited slip. Can remember where the diff cover was from, but I think it was a Nismo part. I bent up my own sway bars from StressProof steel and made two point adjustment links for the end. I machined some mounts with solid Teflon busings for the sway bars, similar tot he 280z placement, front mount style The bar is sitting too low and will hit the duel exhaust pipes so I need to remake the mounts and raise the bar higher in the chassis. Thats it for now, on to the front suspension and crossmenber next. Let me know if any questions, clarifications or more pics. Busy Summer.

In the place ! some more to do but progress !

That makes all domestic orders shipped! One international to figure out still. Thanks again for everyone's patience while I got through these. I didn't anticipate it to take 6 months! Final tally on the donation amount to come as soon as I tally things up, but it will be over $1k. Funds have been flowing to Dan as needed over the last 6 months 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 24. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 25. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID- SHIPPED 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID- SHIPPED 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID- SHIPPED 35. CalZ - PAID- SHIPPED 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 80. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 81. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

After almost 25 years, still together.

My shirts arrived today, with the wait - huge thanks to Ryan for tackling this big job that benefits all of us and HybridZ! It was difficult to choose amongst all of the colors but very happy with my choices!

Even if 100 people commited to purchase, its still tiny small numbers vs an OEM production. Its got to be done out of passion and at least not to lose money. This is why this is such a huge acomplisment for someone like Derek, We are fortunate the passion runs deep. I cant imagine the hours of "un-billed" time

Unfortunately, it is too late. Maybe for round 6 in a couple of years Got the shirts in and will start breaking things down and shipping things out next week. This week is busy with work travel, so appreciate your patience while I get a few out each day on my lunch breaks.

They received all of the shirts without backorders and are starting on printing this afternoon!

I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.

First start up since starting the restoration. Kind of shocked she started right up on the first go. Was expecting something on the MegaJolt to need fixing, but it worked great. Went with Magnacor wires, but they made a mistake and did not fit them up with the right coil boots. Being remade and shipped, so I am using 05’ ford explorer NGK wires for now. Went with a “7” heat NGK plug on account of the 10:1 CR. It’s raining this weekend, but just need to dial-in some crude alignment and she will be road worthy IMG_2339.mov

So this is the finished product if anyone else is interested. It is made out TPU which is very flexible (and hard to print). I have used TPU to create plugs for my floors, wiring grommets and other such.

Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍

Yup! Been daily driving it, 300+ days a year, for the last 4 years. Approaching 75,000 miles on the turbo build. No regrets.

I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there with these awards it’s just incredible, especially with all the awesome cars I was competing against. It’s great to see the judges appreciate all the hard work and effort that has gone into it. These are the awards I received. 1st Place in Ultra Modified Best Engine Gold Cup- This was totally unexpected and shocking it was given to a Z with and LS3 since most of these guys are Nissan purists. Again, thank you all for your support and keeping this site alive.

I don't know if you have ridden in modified Z cars, but 240Z's are LIGHT. 320 to the wheels it's basically a widow maker. Overkill on power is overkill on power. You reach a point where more power is useless, as you can't put it down, and the car is already dangerous as-is. It's a street car. With the power level you are talking about, additional bracing is necessary in the subframe and rails. Do you like reliability? Stock=reliability, modifying it for 40-50 horsepower could take away the reliability. stock 370Z engine is fine power wise bone stock for a 240Z. A lot of the modern cars with all the horsepwoer....that's in a car that weights OVER 4000 pounds. 2 tons. Completely different deal. Your weight is about half of those. Be sensible. Live Longer. And this setup....stock brakes are NOT good enough, nor is a stock suspension.

Take a really close look at those side seals as well. I did a rear main once on an L then got to do the job all over again along with the pan when I got the car back together realized the side seals were also leaking, masked by all the oil and years of grime on the rear of the block.

Well I got my prototypes in for my passive cooling on my Efi hardware throttles! These will be between the heat shield and the throttle bodies. Also it will be a nice and clean way to run the return fuel.

TLDR; Vendor sold a "bolt-on" part that didn't fit. They ghosted me after I asked about it. I filed a credit card dispute and won. Be careful this holiday season. --- Just a heads up for anyone considering buying from "Flex Engineered" during their Black Friday sales. No, that is not their real name, but you can figure it out easily (fabricators of suspension parts and other things). I don't wish to even give them the SEO. I recently had a pretty frustrating experience with them that I feel the need to share. I was going to keep this to myself, but as they are advertising Black Friday savings - I hope to save at least one person from their hassle. I bought a set of “bolt-on” hood hinges from them, advertised as compatible with the Datsun 240Z. However, when I tried to install them, it was clear they hadn’t properly tested these for the 240Z. The hinges wouldn’t fit because they interfered with the grill mount, which is placed differently on the 240Z than on the 280Z. After some research, it became obvious that "Flex" didn’t take this difference into account. Basically, they used me as a test mule for a product that wasn’t fully developed or properly tested. The worst part was how they handled it. After I contacted them with photos showing the issue, they initially responded but then went silent for weeks. They even quietly started changing the product page and removing photos to cover up the problem instead of addressing it directly. It wasn’t until I filed a dispute with my credit card company that they sent a return label - no explanation, no apology, just a blank email with the label. If you’re thinking about purchasing from them, especially during their sale, I’d recommend being cautious. Your purchase might go off without a hitch. But my experience showed they might release products before they’re properly tested, and they don’t handle customer issues very professionally. There are other vendors who prioritize quality and honesty with the Datsun community - "Flex Engineered" just doesn’t seem to be one of them. --- Edit: Apex Engineered

I've sold 22 heads.

He's actually a member here. @jdmjunkies.ch

At long last I can post a few reveal pics, now that the "look" is complete! Though, I do still need to drill the body to properly mount the front and back bumpers. The paint is TH1 Midnight Blue Pearl from the R32, ceramic tint for heat rejection since I'm AC-less, and partial PPF on the buckets, hood, and behind the tires.

Just to add some closure to this posting, I'm feeling pretty good about having just sold to a Datsun enthusiast who is taking on the restoration of this 240 to add to his 510 and 610 selection, and lives within 50 miles so I can keep up to date how it's going. Thanks again NewZed for your suggestion

I just ran across this, I can't believe it's been this long. Still love the Z. The only thing I have done to it in the past several years was recovering the Miata seats with upholstery from lseat.com. is this site still active?

Update : I had been fighting an erratic wideband on the rear collector -cylinders 4-6. Well it turns out I still had a leak at the collector which is before the O2 sensors - dammit . This is a Z story header and collector . The collector pipe was modified for my exhaust and I thought I had the flange true , but it still leaked . This time around I eliminated the gasket all together and used Red Loctite only . At the same time I had a new O2 sensor installed since I was that deep into it . I DID see evidence of a leak but changed the sensor anyways . FIXED! This change helped so much with the tune and you could hear it ! I was able to get the banks to harmonize much better with AFR’s and sound . This helped to mitigate the drone I was getting at low rpm cruise . I thought this would also fix an issue I’ve seen on every intake I’ve used where the AFR’s between the two O2 sensors would be different during high vacuum running - light cruise . Megasquirt didn’t seem to be able to compensate in those scenarios though I had two separate O2 sensors dividing the banks . I ended up going into the injector trims and adding fuel to 1-3 since they ran really lean under high vacuum . Maybe they suck all the air out of the plenum before it reaches the last 3 cylinders . I added almost 20% to 1-3 . At this point the AFR’s evened up and you could feel and hear the difference . This is probably the best I’ve had my L running . Happy guy right now

There is no swap hardware to put the Z transmission behind a V8. It wouldn't handle the torque anyway. The 260Z engine is about 158 cubic inches, compared to 350 for a SBC. The old Z transmission bearings are typically ready to fall apart besides that, not uncommon even with the stock engines. It would probably last about one pull. I haven't done it myself, but I wouldn't even try it just based on what I've learned.

4th gear doesn't use the countershaft, it's direct drive. That's a good clue. Sounds more like the countershaft bearing. Looks like you'll need to split the cases, so you might as well do the mainshaft/input shaft bearing also. It's not a super-finesse job. Just needs some ingenuity. It's fun. Part of Z ownership. Here's a good illustration of the parts you'll be looking at. I'm sure that there are "how-to" videos out there somewhere. You can get a factory service manual on the internet that shows how to take it apart. Good luck. https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm

"Grinding" is not very specific. Can you add details? Have you driven it? Is it the same in every gear? 71B's are known for destroying the adapter plate bearings. Did you find any metal on the drain plug magnet? If you've been driving it you might drain the fluid and see how it looks. Might also be worthwhile to lift the car and get underneath with the engine running to see if you can locate the noise. Replacing the main and countershaft bearings is not very difficult. You only have to split the cases and pull the bearings off of the ends of the shafts. The adapter plate bearings are more difficult.

Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost? Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno.

thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4

As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf

Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.

Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes

I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).

Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.

Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.