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  1. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  2. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  3. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  4. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  5. I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ
    1 point
  6. Hi all! Restoring a rusted 240z series 1, SCCA vintage race car. Car last raced in 02'. Currently rebuilding to group EP spec's. I figured id start a new thread summarize my plans and progress. Il just add progress photo's to this thread. Thanks for reading! Engine: L24 Block – OEM bore, stroke. OEM materials. Not modified Head – N42 core Modifications: polished bowls. Valve seat de-shrouded. Minor reliefs cut around seats, but within ID spec of gasket. Ch
    1 point
  7. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
    1 point
  8. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech re
    1 point
  9. I know this is an old post but I ordered from Mike at Whitehead based on the feedback here. I ordered a rebuilt R200 3.7 with a Quaife LSD in September 2020. After 6 months of getting the run around and still no diff, I asked for a refund. Now 5 weeks later and no refund. I know lots of things can happen and COVID has thrown a wrench into many things. I think I've been more than patient and I'm still hoping Mike will take care of this but for now, I wanted to leave some feedback.
    1 point
  10. I think this is about the time I sold the grey "parts" car. It was running so nicely that I couldn't bear to strip it for the interior. I did screw around with a funky idea for a gated shifter on the Z. When I was younger, I used to play this arcade game at GameWorks that was a Ferrarri challenge game and it had a gated shifter and it was so cool, I thought I could get it to work on the Z. Turns out the S130 gearbox does not have enough shaft movement at any "reasonable" height for it to have distinct gates. This 3rd prototype did work, but only until I bolted it rigidly to the tu
    1 point
  11. I think you'll find that all those warnings you heard about not having any bottom end are way overblown. It will be fine, you're going to love it.
    1 point
  12. As values continue to climb I often wonder how the aftermarket Porsche community compares. My car is slowly starting to become nice, but I was talking to a friend recently about how Datsun guys are unfortunately really cheap. Often not willing to pay for quality, but still happy to complain. I wonder if the general demographic affects the quality of customer service some parts places are able to provide. Skillard has been consistently great, and other than issues explained in other threads, I've had a great experience with Apex. It's a double edged sword I think. As prices go up, maybe cust
    1 point
  13. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
    1 point
  14. Ok, I think is fixed now. Still working on a few other errors.
    1 point
  15. New, wonderful, period-looking, dished and wide competition S30 wheels NEW ! 14x7J ET-16 PCD 4x114.3 CB 73.1 Weight 6.82kgs Color – bronze/anthracite Interior diametre (to pass over brakes and calipers) 345mm. Also fits Nissan PS30-B Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX and other Datsuns. Supplied with centre-hub stickers of either a Z design or REAL WHEELS (specify when ordering please) and an exclusive white, REAL leather key ring. Uses standard, tapered wh
    1 point
  16. Realize I am late chiming in here, but what the heck. What Grannyknot said is correct, and right on the money. The metal directly above the rear view mirror is critical. I don't know if you are planning to do any of the work yourself but if so I would strongly suggest taking the car to a trusted body shop and have them put the car on a frame machine and having the roof straightened as best possible BEFORE ANY SHEET METAL IS REMOVED! Do not cut anything without having this done first! The right side A-pillar will come back to its correct position if the shop knows what they are doing. Think of
    1 point
  17. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
    1 point
  18. I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point t
    1 point
  19. I did lots of things to the car this year, but didn't feel it was necessary to update here until I had some results. The main outstanding issue with the car after Thunderhill was the cooling system. Got a TIG welder earlier this year in February and learned how to booger weld aluminum enough to start on cooling modifications. I started with building an intercooler setup. Since I'm staying with stock EFI, I wanted to add a recirculating BPV so that required the intake boot to be replaced. The factory intake box does not fit with the intercoo
    1 point
  20. Yes he is a good guy. I've done a little work for him and bought a motorcycle from him a long time ago.
    1 point
  21. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  22. Check the simple stuff like the air intake. Make sure the throttle blade is opening completely. Check the intake system for mouse nests, they work fast. Make sure the filter is not clogged. Take the black cover off of the AFM and make sure the counterweight/vane is moving freely as you rev the engine. The AFM vanes have been known to bind. The only thing stopping an in-tune engine from revving and producing more power is air flow. Your symptom sounds kind of like an air flow problem.
    1 point
  23. What's the proper "stance"? It's all subjective. Lowered cars rarely pay dividends on the street outside of crushed air dams and high-centered speed bumps. The 260 and 280Z have a higher stock ride height than the 240z, but lowering it an inch or two will produce the appearance of the earlier car. As for wheels and tires, a 225 50R15 on a 7" zero offset wheel seems to work nicely on a slightly lowered 280Z.
    1 point
  24. Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV
    1 point
  25. No, I only have one Z at the moment. The point I was trying to make is that I've owned several over the years; but I've never been willing to spend a big chunk of money on a nice one...opting instead to buy junkers and restore them myself. It's a satisfying process to build your own car, exactly the way you want it, vs buying something already pre-built.
    1 point
  26. The price and popularity of S30's has been going up for a while now, well before the 400z was even officially announced that they were going to make it. With more and more cars becoming numb, fat, and auto-only, there is going to be a shift back into older cars that aren't necessarily as fast, but are perceived as "more engaging". Add in that the S30 is beautiful, and is becoming more and more rare due to many of them having been fully rusted away or crashed into trees, and the price goes up. Until the price of gasoline becomes absurd (i.e. 20 dollars a gall
    1 point
  27. While the Z is at my place, my Bodyshop gave me some homework: To completely strip the chassis from all the seam sealer, undercoating, bondo and paint so that it's easier for him to remove old welds and weld new stuff... started by removing the biggest chunks in the front inner fender area with a spatula. but after an hour i realized i need a faster solution. After a bit of research, i found this tihng called Turbo-Igel (Turbo Hedgehog). The name comes from the "hook" style spikes that remind of a hedgehog This thing works absolutely brilliantly and isnt really agressive to
    1 point
  28. Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
    1 point
  29. I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
    1 point
  30. Crunch time! Still planning to test/tune in mid September and drive it to Nismo Fiesta in October. Shift actuator installed the transmission. Driveshaft arrived. Fixing leak on cam covers and while they are off we'll repaint them with a nice speckle red. I always loved the way Ferrari intakes looked with that texture. Lastly I'm converting the 3D printed canards into a mold to make carbon fiber parts.
    1 point
  31. I made contact with Ohm on his personal fb page, got a quick reply. That was a couple of days ago. He was getting my request taken care of, so good to get a reply, and hopefully will get what I need soon. thanks for the input
    1 point
  32. QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer,
    1 point
  33. While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a
    1 point
  34. So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?
    1 point
  35. Back again. Couple more updates. I got the driveshaft adapter back from my machine shop. and it fits like a glove between the BMW CV joint and the r200 input flange. I guess my measurements were pretty good and their machine work was top notch. I also went ahead and got the tires mounted onto my wheels and tossed them on for a brief test fit. Granted there's no sub-frame in the car to hold the wheel in place very much, but just hanging there, it's looking pretty good to get away with out any fender flares. In front sub-frame news, I think I have all the
    1 point
  36. Well long time and I have finally bested my PB in the Ls. 8.64@157!! Also will be on JJ arm drop fastest in america. Stay tuned ,-)
    1 point
  37. I use 5kg springs in rear. Very soft and I have quite a bit of droop. I have been watching a heap of the videos ole mate did with his carbon 240z. Now having a go learning carbon. If all goes to plan I might make a fuel cell to sit right behind rear towers and mount my wing off the cross between the towers. Then I have a bucket load of space under there and we may go to a double wishbone style set up, or at least some sort of locator behind diff. can’t wait to cut all that metal out. Carbon Skin is 2kg
    1 point
  38. Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!
    1 point
  39. Interesting comments and I think that you have nailed the crucial weaknesses in the stock S30 body for race use. Basically the fire wall does not sufficiently connect forward to the front suspension load points. Also the attachment of the front X member which bolts to the rails, the stock four bolt setup allows flex, it's simple to add a couple of brackets forward to bolt to the rails.
    1 point
  40. I had a hell of a time getting my SBC V1.0 started on my first go around, replaced just about everything external to the engine with new stuff. Turns out it was way too retarded and any attempt to start failed or resulted in a backfire. Here is what I finally did and suggest that you do as well. -Remove #1 spark plug and valve cover (removing the timing cover is preferred but not easy) -Find top dead center of the compression stroke via methods already discussed (align crank and cam dots if you have the cover off, more accurate) -Take note of the position of your harmonic balan
    1 point
  41. Had another good day out this past weekend, dry with temps in the 80's so it was near perfect. I beat my previous personal track record by 4 seconds and was hanging around with some prepped spec Boxsters, they were faster in the corners I was faster in the straights. I am going to have to go to different rear brake setup though. The 280zx kit has been giving me issues with dragging/sticking that is causing me to miss some track time to adjust and bleed, keep warping rotors. I don't think they can handle the heat and abuse of slowing the car from 140 mph so I am gong with the kit I probably sho
    1 point
  42. Taking orders now for my S30 super-lite strut-bars, available in August. Lightest on the market not forgetting that 'light is right' ! 5% off the parts' price for the first 50x orders*. *8x firm orders already placed as at Independance Day. US$260 £212 CAN$358 AUS$381 Kits so far are : front and rear bars front bar only New nuts and washers for the strut tops front and/or rear Price list in multiple currencies attached. Later, new front and rear caps will be available
    1 point
  43. Still making progress... just slow. The Sequential Transmission is in place. waiting on a driveshaft. look how much space it frees up! I wish I had done this back when we made the tunnel. It could have been so much slimmer. I also did a scan of the back panel. I'm going to make a mesh screen that's custom designed around the lights so the back can vent. It's a particular oddity of the way I built the car. Since behind the driver's seat is a plexiglass panel, the back is open to the ground. The opening in the back panel will allow air to flow up from under the car and over the diff and ideally
    1 point
  44. I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier.
    1 point
  45. Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
    1 point
  46. Hi guys. Long time lurker in AZ. I have had a handful of of S30's, a Z31T and a Z32TT. Been around Z cars for almost 30 years. Please picked up a 75 280 about 2 years ago and I have been slowly messing with it. It had some pretty beet up fenders but they aren't rusty so I'm working on them. The car had a bad paint job on top of 2 other repaints so she is going to metal. I've had a few cars with triple mikuni's and already got some more but not sure if I'm going to go that route or not. Technology is cool after all, so is boost. I also already have done a ZX 5 speed swap and have the
    1 point
  47. Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
    1 point
  48. Well I ended up getting the NCRCAs and T3 front triangulated bar installed. Two new tie rods and a fresh alignment (2mm toe out) in the front, I did find that the rear has a pretty big toe in issue. Nothing I can do about that at the moment but the tires don't seem to upset so I will just run with it. I did some more cage work in the mid and rear including a welded STB and connecting the main hoop to the roof rails. I still want to tie the front of the rockers to the frame rails and up to the strut towers but can't find time. The car feels extremely tight and planted now even a lower speed. Th
    1 point
  49. I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
    1 point
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