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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/24/21 in Posts

  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there with these awards it’s just incredible, especially with all the awesome cars I was competing against. It’s great to see the judges appreciate all the hard work and effort that has gone into it. These are the awards I received. 1st Place in Ultra Modified Best Engine Gold Cup- This was totally unexpected and shocking it was given to a Z with and LS3 since most of these guys are Nissan purists. Again, thank you all for your support and keeping this site alive.
    3 points
  2. There was some conversation in other topic about blade type rollbar. So, i have one like this. 32x3mm cro-mo tube and 260mm blades. Blades are 35 to 25mm wide and 6mm thick, steel of course. Bar itself is more just a link between blades. This type rollbar works mainly with blades, i.e tube is stiff and blades are flexing (if they do) It depends how they are adjusted. If blade is vertical, it´s very stiff, horizontally they are pretty flexible. Any position between those, are something between, ofc. To adjust, just loose bolt (most left head of blade) and tur to desired position. Or attach cable and make remote control.
    2 points
  3. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back. Here is a link to the original thread: I think it is a blessing in disguise that I haven’t finished it sooner, racing from 10 years means you learn allot on what is smart and what is not. And over the years allot of 'spares' have found their way to the chassis, like a Tilton pedal box, fuel cell etc etc And times change so supplies do to, there a solution for the rear control arms by these guys https://www.apexengineered.com/ So ill put in my order for a front and rear subframe for the car. Here are some pictures of the body as it sits now: First it has been blasted Then powder coated Saturday ill start with mounting some small stuff like the pedal box. For an engine it will run an L28 with forged internals, kameari chain drive, isky cam, worked head, race oil pan and probably ITBS over the set of Dellortos i still have. I might go dry sump but that has pros and cons, the con is it ads weight.
    2 points
  4. Car is still around. Still drysumped LS2, jenvey throttles with quaife 6 speed sequential and independent 9 inch. 18 x 11 wheels and 300 mm slicks all round, big AP brakes. Cool car, but the process over 9 years has been expensive. 3 x R200s, 3 t56 gearbox’s, 3 sets of coil overs, 2 sets of brakes (plus numerous rotors and pads -last set of maintenance rotors and pads was $3400. I motor blown due to oil pressure, one due to a lifter, one cooked, but still ran. Driveline is not bullet proof, but works hard so requires a little maintenance. Video is what I class as a diagnostic video. It also happens to show a Z doing a 2.18 lap around Bathurst. My quaife had dropped one tooth on 3rd gear.
    2 points
  5. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the final part. The only mistake I made was not smoothing out the original door. I thought it looked fairly straight but it turned out to have some waves in it. It also had some small flaws I thought would be easy to correct in the mold. I was dead wrong. It would have been much easier to correct the flaws on the original door than to work on the mold. You can see the final surface on the mold. Then I prepped the mold, laid in some layers and a new door popped out. It's hard to tell in the pictures but the surface finish turned out great. I added some cardboard rolls in the back to make it stiff. It is attached to the car with push button locks and pins on the bottom. For the final touch I 3d printed a door handle.
    2 points
  6. Just a very small update. While preparing the passenger side fender for the bodyshop, i realized i dont have any nice fender emblems anymore, so i immediately ordered a set, since i saw they were still available new from Nissan: Nothing crazy, but another little piece of the Puzzle is ready to be installed, once the shell and body panels are painted...
    1 point
  7. This community is not what it used to be, but the flame keeps burning. Maybe not as many replies as you might have gotten in the past, but also not as many assholes. Again, all of is that follow you recognize this is a project you are taking the time to make it right and it's not going to disappear unfinished. And keep in mind you could probably message most any other member for advice if you needed.
    1 point
  8. In my experience, the metal will rust under the filler if you don't first seal the metal with epoxy paint. This exact situation was occurring with the hood I'm restoring on my build page - rusty metal under the filler. Is it a real problem? I don't know for sure. There was no sign of rust from the outside...but it was definitely there, and the reason I prefer to put epoxy down first, then filler.
    1 point
  9. That is an interesting thought. I may think about that more for a future project. For this car, the fenders pop off and the strut top falls in your lap after you take the strut nut off. I am going to leave some relatively long flex lines to the brakes so they don't become the only support. I think I can change springs real quick at the track.
    1 point
  10. Went to replace the rear wheel bearings on my Z and found this! Looks like the previous owner cut off the old bearing and took part of the stub axle with it. Please send me a PM if you have one. There are pairs on eBay but I don't need a set nor the companion flange or other parts. Just the stub axle. Thanks.
    1 point
  11. Just to follow up on this, I purchased the vents and they are nicely built and look sweet but they do NOT fit without modifying. I had to remove at least 1/4" of material from the edges to get them to fit in the hood recesses.
    1 point
  12. This is my first Datsun. I traded a 1979 Triumph Spitfire with a Ford 2.6 Cologne motor for it. It’s originally a Nevada car but now it resides here in Utah. When I got the car, the original engine was completely seized and wouldn’t turn over with a 6 foot breaker bar. After spending tons of hours lurking on this forum and reading the Jags That Run book, I finally was able to stuff a Chevy 350 and a TH350 transmission into the car. It has gotten a lot more fun after that. Here are a couple of pictures of the journey.
    1 point
  13. A little update on my ITB build. In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again. I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy. Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel. The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it. It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch. I sent to Z car off to a guru. Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal. Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator. Which hasn't worked in years. I went with a repopped one. Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it. I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help. He is a friend and just an all around great guy. If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows. I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money. So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively. You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much. I can't thank them all enough. Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me. It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more. Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out. They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive. Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict. Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct. The ECU should start self tuning. So time to drive her and get it running right. I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! IAC or not. I will most likely attempt to use IAC again. I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that. My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton. Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)
    1 point
  14. We don't need to guess here. The wind tunnel testing did the MSA spoiler (BRE spoiler) and a 5.25" tall spoiler. At 120mph, the BRE made 22 lbs downforce. The 5.25" one made 30 more lbs downforce. Without a spoiler at baseline, it made 55 lbs of lift. The much bigger thing with regards to Z car aero is to do something in the front. Cover up that huge hole in the front and I expect you'd see some real gains at the drag strip. Stock, the test car made 320 lbs LIFT. That work that the air is doing is slowing you down. If you look at the wind tunnel results the stock test #2 the car had .471 CD. If you look at the last test with the car with the most aero mods was .407. The hp to drive the baseline car at 120 was 102. The hp to drive it with the front end mostly blocked off was 88. So closing up the front is like giving yourself another 14 hp at the fast end of the track.
    1 point
  15. Here's a picture of the inboard clearance at ride height (~2 figer gap) with coilover sleeves. Theres room to go further inboard. I think I measured at one time you could fit 245s under the stock rear arches rolled maybe trimmed and welded if you have the proper offset. I believe some other members here have done that for maximum tire. I think someone here has actually gone wider but I don't recall their username.
    1 point
  16. Couple pics from a recent install I did a couple weeks ago in a customers car.
    1 point
  17. She's in! Need to bleed the clutch to check everything but it's all bolted up to the engine side and alternator is back on. Waiting on a new speedo cable, reverse switch, and shifter gasket before I fill it up. Afterward I'll get the new driveshaft in and double check everything Spent a decent chunk of time before it was rebuilt cleaning the bellhousing and tailhousing so they were painted and cleaned up a bit. It's looking nice with that new T3 crossmember even though it's not perfect. Currently on the way are a new intercooler and piping among a few other things. Edit - Also removed the clutch weights from the Centerforce clutch per a L series builder's recommendation. Supposedly makes it difficult to shift once you start getting up to about 6k rpm. I don't expect to get there often, but with my modest goals and the added rotational weight, it feels like the added clamping force isn't worth the tradeoff of some questionable shifting at high rpm
    1 point
  18. Ok… never done this before. Bought a devilbiss gun for $40 on eBay last year and finally got the chance to take it for a spin. I’m using Speedokote 2K DTM primer in the gallon size. Threw my rear wheels on and carted the sucker out to my driveway. 3 hours of spraying, and she is coated! Everything from the door/fender jam forward is complete. Really excited, because now I can actually see an end in sight! Glad I didn’t try to do it all at once, as the primer does not flow as well as I’d hoped (Need to buy a reducer for it). Now I need to fabricate an AL gauge/switch cluster (so I can weld the roll-bar mounts) clean/scrub the interior and I can primer through to the rear door-jam. OH! ARC switch cluster came in. This sucker in neat! Fuses and relays all-in-one, with a ribbon cable to the switches themselves. IMG_7892.MOV
    1 point
  19. Thanks for your interest. I have spent the past several years trying to convince myself that I am not insane (though the project may be), and my move to the AME chassis was a big decision. It was a trade-off in spending money up front to save me time and ultimately get a car capable of handling the way I would expect after dumping tons of money into it regardless of which direction I choose. I have followed some of the other members' projects, and I see tons of work going into reinforcing the unibody which ultimately adds a lot of weight anyway. My goal with the AME chassis is that it, together with a minimally designed roll cage to meet NHRA / SCCA requirements, will provide all of the primary rigidity for the car, and the small remaining shell of the body I will use will just go along for the ride pretty much. I have struggled with coming to terms on a few aspects of the project. I don't like super wide wheels that protrude far outside the original body lines of the car. I wanted to keep that minimal, while recognizing that I would definitely need fender flares for what I have planned. Initially I wanted 17" wheels because I though 18" wheels looked strange on the Z car and was afraid they would just transmit too much road vibration to make it enjoyable to drive on the street. Plus, 17" tires now are relatively cheap. However, I also wanted to stick with a max tire diameter of about 25", so I came up with limitations on the 17" wheels and tire sizes. I finally decided on 18", and both front and back will be 25" diameter. OE Datsun tires were 24.6 I believe, and I felt it important to stay as close as possible to that. The narrowest track width (hub to hub mounting) that AME offers is 55.5 (OE Z car is 54.5), so I went with that on the front and rear, and am using 5.5" backspacing on the front wheels (18 x 9) and 6.5 backspacing on the rear (18 x 10.5) to keep the wheels tucked in as much as possible. I'll be picking up my wheels within the next 60-90 days and will post pics when I have them.
    1 point
  20. Price lowered to $50 for both, plus shipping to your location from zip 29303
    1 point
  21. https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/?fbclid=IwAR2T8lFNnlM0_l6ywNaPiWWpnX3fLlONFA_vq1zqM3Z1f21CSq6Z0vUeZxk Here's a link to their datsun parts
    1 point
  22. I wouldn't assume that the housing type guarantees the internals are the same. I like to browse Rockauto or Nissan sites and look at part compatibility. Click the part number in Rockauto and compatibility will show up. The Nissan site is a little more tedious. I chose 2008 for an example, a couple of parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,drivetrain https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2008_Armada-SE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Differential-Pinion-Bearing-Rear/89867147/38120-7S000.html
    1 point
  23. Hello Newbie, Looks like you have found a decent looking car. Should you need help with most anything related to your new z, there is tons of good information here at HybZ and over on ClassicZcar. Searching past post will reveal discussions on most topics and well thought out questions usually are answered by those who have traveled the road before. Welcome.
    1 point
  24. Thought you guys might be interested in my GTO project. I started by building a chrome-molly tube chassis to scca gt3 rules. 2400mm wheelbase same as the SWB Ferrari. I used a c4 corvette donor for the suspension, dressed it up and powder coated everything. All floor panels and firewall are .040 titanium. Wheel tubs, dash and shifter cover are real carbon fiber. Engine is a race prepped 355 inch sbc with all the good parts. Transmission is a magnesium Tex racing dog box with rem finished straight cut gears. 3 disc clutch and mag bell housing are Tilton. Shocks are top of the line Afco double adjustable with the rears inboard mounted. The body is a Mcburnie, I stretched the front fenders 3.7 inches to match the original GTO. Wheels are 2000 corvette N73 magnesium option. The finished car will come in just under 2000 pounds and have about 480 hp, top end will be around 186. I am nearly finished now and working on the paint. I can hardly wait to drive it , it should be a lot of fun.
    1 point
  25. The momo 3503 is 80mm tall. I measured the stock wheel to be about 375mm in diameter, the thickness is about 25-30mm, and overall height is about 110mm. Meaning, a 30mm dish steering wheel on the momo hub would be very similar to the stock setup.
    1 point
  26. Thanks for the comments. I am in the process of building it now. The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work. I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it. I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading. For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading. Points taken on the front brakes. I'll definitely look to get something better. I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration. I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet. I was looking at the Toyota Tacoma upgrade that some others have done. I already need to buy a new rear sway bar since my stock one that goes in front of the diff won't fit with the super 8.8. I'll probably get the ST rear kit. As far as seats, I will be running 2000 Viper seats. They fit and look great after some minor floor pan surgery. I will definitely be doing all the chassis and engine tuning once I get the car up and running. Thanks
    1 point
  27. I agree with @rturbo 930.....if you plan to upgrade the front brakes, I'd go with something other than the Toyota calipers. Those things weigh a ton and it's all unsprung weight. There are numerous options/kits out there that incorporate aluminum calipers and vented rotors. Also, if you ARE upgrading the front brakes, why would you want to keep solid front rotors? Those are actually the biggest achilles heel of the OEM system, as they are prone to overheating when subjected to sustained, intensive use. Since you've already swapped the rears for discs, I'm assuming that you've also gone with a bigger MC? If not, that should be on your near-term list. I know your question is focused on brakes and suspension, but have you upgraded your seats? That alone can make a huge difference in driving pleasure and comfort. Lots of good choices from Recaro, Sparco, etc....and there's a couple good threads here on seat swaps. Your combo sounds super nice -- I hope you're enjoying it!!
    1 point
  28. Fwiw, I lowered my engine 20mm and had to grind a little off the oil pan edge and rack mount. so 2" lowering would need some work.
    1 point
  29. WOW, I can't believe it! Where can I sign up for this amazing offer?
    1 point
  30. I just ran some aluminum buttons that sit on top of my spring perch top hats. Holes and diameters seem about 0.010" off. But again I suspect the precision is fairly good and more a problem of accuracy. I think with the little practice I could dial this in if I need to. In the next few weeks I want to run some positional location tests to see how accurate I can center punch holes.
    1 point
  31. There's an article about the KN20 head on Road and Track, nice to see this thing get some recognition. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a37360407/datsunworks-kn20-head-brings-dohc-to-the-240z/
    1 point
  32. My stock balancer is 8". I was hoping there was an OEM balancer from the 60's / 70's that was 7.25 or smaller. Thanks though, that one is a great price
    1 point
  33. My column is as Clark described, 3/4 DOM tubing held by separate rod ends (specially sized for 3/4 tube) and then I used the Woodward weld in splines and their u-joints for the weld in splines and a special Woodward u-joint for the rack. For the collapsing piece I used a Woodward part inside the car near the steering wheel. It has 5 to 7 inches of telescoping as I recall. My plan was to make a trick system that allowed you to pull a lever and move the steering wheel up and almost to the windshield rather than removing the wheel. It was an idea I had thought for driver changes watching friends race in Chumpcar. For the firewall I used one of the aftermarket 3/4 oversize bearings that mounts flat. I could move this over enough to get good pedal spacing. If you don't want to go to all this trouble you might be able to make a larger pad for your brake pedal to make heal and toe easier. Or you could do the same for the throttle. For data it doesn't matter the system but here's what you need at a minimum in my opinion. For car health you'd these as the most basic. 1. water temp & maybe pressure 2. oil temp & pressure 3. RPMs 4. lateral and longitudinal Gs 5. GPS coordinates 6. other basic things you want to measure (fuel pressure) The magic happens in the software. You can create match channels to view what happens to your fuel and oil pressure when you're in a turn over a certain amount of Gs. Or what happens when you brake hard. One of my favorites is to create match channels that measure the distance certain things happen. Say for instance how many feet have you driven against the rev limiter. What are the mileage of components when heavily stressed (brakes over a certain Gs threshold). You can map these out against a track map to see if there are certain areas where there are problems and plan on how to fix. You're probably thinking when am I going to have time to deal with all this data. That's where setting up the analysis package comes into play. I like to create a health report that is a channels measure screen. It records the highs and the lows. So for all those match channels above I set them to show either 0 or 1. The channels report can then be setup to show red for anything showing a 1. This could be low oil pressure but it only shows when you have a really long corner with heavy braking at the same time. My first 5 minutes involves clicking the health tab and seeing if there are any red or yellow items (all goes back to setup). These can cover all the basics so you only need a few gauges if you don't want to do a dash. You don't need voltage, current, fuel level, etc. as the datalogger is a better option. For understanding how you are driving I'd add the following the basics for car health. 1. Lateral and longitudinal Gs (can be GPS sourced if all else fails) 2. GPS for distance and track mapping. Most new systems can also be used to verify lines but ideally that's done by adding video. Race Technology is better here than AIM that want to use their expensive smarty cams. 3. steering 4. throttle 5. front and rear brake pressure sensors Like car health you can create match channels that measure how you are doing and put that into a channels report. And any package that's decent will have time slip (faster or slower vs. reference lap or same sectors). You can map these out on the track and tie to video to see what lines might be better or worse. But generally before you start worrying about this you can use a split times report to check for consistency. That along with seeing timeslip will help you get better as a driver really quickly. Then you add in how are you doing at heal and toe, or how good are you on the brakes, or releasing the brakes. You can also use the above channels to measure Ackerman steering and use this as a math channel to report over or understeer. You can map that out on a track, you can show it doe fast, medium, or slow corners. There's lots you can do. My advice use OEM sensors from a JY or buy new often for a ton less than what the data companies want to charge. In the end it's like anything else. All the details are in the preparation and that makes it much easier to consume the data at the track. I'm a big believer in Ross Bentley's review system for data. You have 5 minutes to check the big things (health KPIs), 15 to 30 minutes to see area where you can improve (or be more consistent), then you can spend a bunch more time between events looking for ideas of what to change to make you faster and more consitent. Sorry for the length, I love data and race cars Cary
    1 point
  34. @jhm thank you, sir! Update: ACP in Penn. is making me a Stahl style header. Greg was keen on not skimping on this part. Also got me an ATI damper and all parts for the front suspension are in hand: - Apex s130 low-profile adjustable tie-rods (steering). Starts at 3/4”+ track on S30 - John’s OEM LCA mod with adjustable track - Futofab TC rods - GC coilover w/sectioned OEM struts. GC bolt-on camber plates - Koni 8610’s questions: 1) anyone run a racing/lightweight alternator? Greg uses Li batteries w/o alt., and just charges the batteries after the race. I don’t think I’m there yet, so looking for a compromise. I found this. Eager for your feedback! 2) looking into AIM dash loggers. Anyone run these or have any preferences? PS: mocking up the pedal assembly
    1 point
  35. Interested seen the post on Facebook! Sent a message thank you
    1 point
  36. Thread revive. Looking again at a ZF 6HP26/28 trans, it's viability has improved in that a bell housing adapter is now available for the LS as is a mickey mouse controller, the HGT GCU. Apparently these ZF boxes are exclusively trick inside in that shift speeds can be adjusted to near instantaneous. The car is a 280ZX 2+0 built for circuit racing.
    1 point
  37. I will look into reinforcing it further. I have some done. I've got a welded rollbar at the rear, and brace on the front struts. I'm just waiting on the fuel rail, clutch, spacer for dry sump, and few other things. In terms of power. Similar engine with same turbo was making 600whp. I'm planning on running less.
    1 point
  38. Just had a long talk with Rob. He has some valid points but mostly they are just so busy that it kind of has been pushed aside from a social media standpoint. He was hesitant to post numbers because he knows he can get more out of it with a better tune. The owner of the car loves the head and has zero complaints about it. The problem is Rebello is just so busy all the time that they take forever on a regular build. Add the complexity of the KN20 and waiting a year for a motor is a real buzz kill. Other avenues are being explored to speed it up and at the request of Rebello I'm now selling the heads with guides and seats installed. This has been a major time vampire for them and has caused a ton of delays. I built a custom head oven and purchased a nitrogen dewar. Made custom installation drifts for the guides and seats. I've done 2 heads so far and it has gone really well. I'm big on the science and realistically, heat soaking a new head and nitrogen chilling the seats and guides is the way to go. If you are using brute force then you are broaching. I think it's especially critical on a new casting. Now for the good news. Rob is putting the car back on the dyno for a new tune and they will be doing a complete writeup including pictures of the install and will be posting them soon. We can put away the pitchforks now:)
    1 point
  39. "Tri-Y" headers finished. Completed exhaust installed. So a few weeks work and I-don't-even-want-to-tally-how-much-money to gain an inch or so of ground clearance. I think maybe I have lost my mind.
    1 point
  40. Sorry it took me so long to get back, but thanks for the link.
    1 point
  41. Never mind. Found this and it helped. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128943-z31t-axle-swap-can-fit/
    1 point
  42. @clarkspeed Thanks for the incredibly comprehensive response Clark!! 1) 100%. Have GC coilovers at each corner w/ GC bolt-in camber plates (to maintain EP spec). Will adjust ride height after the exhaust is in. 2 & 3) You have given me a lot to think about here. Car came with 3/4"" spacers, so I'll have to measure and possible buy more or taller spacers once I have the ride height set. Greg runs 3 1" spacers stacked, and has one machined to make-up for the effect on camber/angle of the LCA mounting surface. 4) 10-4! I am allowed 2" extra track total (1" on each side). I will achieve this by: a) modifying stock LCA w/ heim rod-end w/part list recommended by John. b) Futofab TC (on order) c) either Apex s130 front "low profile" tie rod kit, or fabricate my own with parts from McMaster. All three parts will work together to achieve the +2" plus track I need. 5) I am running #350 springs in the front. Il be able to add the negative camber w/ the camber plate, and the addition of track. I am targeting -2 degrees, but might go less as you suggested for the heavy springs. 6) The Futofab TC's should solve this concern, but Il look at it more clearly when they are in-hand. I need to become more familair with the geometry. 7 & 8 ) agreed! Will be looking into heim rod ends for sure, regardless of something I fab or purchase. It is frustrating that the A/M suppliers done explicitly state the weight. Not sure why... I weigh every OEM suspension part I remove from the car so I can keep track of the net +-. 9) yeah I will use the stock knuckles for now With all of your help, I have a much much better grasp on the front suspension geometry and modifications. Il have to play around with the roll center a bit, but besides that I think I have it squared away! Thank you again for your help Clark, Ben, John!
    1 point
  43. I've never seen that thread before, so much good info! Thanks
    1 point
  44. Quite the fleet! We've got a 1987 BMW 325e (AKA Garbage heap), my 1997 12v Ram 2500, a 20' enclosed and my wife's tesla out front. So a similar hodgepodge of junk. The Z lives in a 1946 2 car garage, so a root cellar with a wine nook haha. I'll be sure to post up when I make it down to the Willow area, see if some of you Cali folks want to come make a day of it!
    1 point
  45. Never mind. The measurements are in the book. They are in the front under Motor Mount Brackets. Thanks all!
    1 point
  46. Hello, I just wanted to thank everyone for all your support and suggestions, I did narrowed things down and it was the camshaft, I already replaced it and added a new timing chainsaw well, the car operates well now, I know is a long journey but the car has everything operational, I just need to open a new trend about a good radiator. Best regards.
    1 point
  47. Slow progress but any is better than none. Hammered out the passenger side rear. Still need to do some trimming but its better than how it was. Need to finish up the passenger side rear quater then weld them to the back.
    1 point
  48. After fitting the rear quarter panel on the driver side I didn't like how the rear dog leg was aligning so I decided to cut it off and remake a new one. I ended up making the radius section a little more defined the second time around.
    1 point
  49. I thought the idea of the SubtleZ kit was to give you 1.5" extra width without looking like it was flared, so why add any lip flares to it? A stock body 240z with rolled fenders can easily handle a 245 in the front and a 245 to 275 in the rear with the right offset so with 1.5" extra you should be able to add some healthy rubber on the ground... I am going to build a RIPS RB34 for my Primadonna Z; love his engines!
    1 point
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