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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/20 in Posts

  1. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  2. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  3. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  4. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  5. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  6. I've heard of a few people have had issues with the upper bushings in the Konis, and I suspect that there are a lot more who have the issues but don't know it. Cameron aka Heavy85 is the one I can point to off the top of my head. Opinions on shocks are kind of like brakes IMO. You get people who put gigantic brakes on the front of their Z and couple them with rear drum or crappy tiny rear disc and then they report that the car stops so much better, etc. Most people, IMO, don't know what proper brake bias feels like, I say this because I was actually one of these people. I went to a driver'
    1 point
  7. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech re
    1 point
  8. New, wonderful, period-looking, dished and wide competition S30 wheels NEW ! 14x7J ET-16 PCD 4x114.3 CB 73.1 Weight 6.82kgs Color – bronze/anthracite Interior diametre (to pass over brakes and calipers) 345mm. Also fits Nissan PS30-B Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX and other Datsuns. Supplied with centre-hub stickers of either a Z design or REAL WHEELS (specify when ordering please) and an exclusive white, REAL leather key ring. Uses standard, tapered wh
    1 point
  9. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! I reached out to Fritz and he showed me another source for the LSD. Il be placing an order for his shafts shortly. I think this will be the best value overall, given the 20-30lbs weight savings and the LSD.
    1 point
  10. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
    1 point
  11. The spindle pins are such a pain in the ass. Something I found really helped was getting a medium-sized tub, and then filling it with about a gallon of 50/50 ATF and acetone. It's like penetrating oil on steroids. Set the side of the strut/control arm assembly with the spindle pin into the tub and let it soak for 2 or 3 days. I stopped breaking threaded rod after that.
    1 point
  12. If they're bound then they're not doing anything, but if they're not then they're softer than the rest of the spring, hence the progressive part. The Tokicos are worse, and it's been an ongoing topic since the 90s. It is as designed though. If it bothers you get a non-progressive spring. Personally not a fan of progressive springs.
    1 point
  13. There used to be a rule on the site that there is no "best". Your choice depends on your plans. You haven't defined your plans, so really, your thread is just about what choices there are.
    1 point
  14. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  15. At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
    1 point
  16. Check the simple stuff like the air intake. Make sure the throttle blade is opening completely. Check the intake system for mouse nests, they work fast. Make sure the filter is not clogged. Take the black cover off of the AFM and make sure the counterweight/vane is moving freely as you rev the engine. The AFM vanes have been known to bind. The only thing stopping an in-tune engine from revving and producing more power is air flow. Your symptom sounds kind of like an air flow problem.
    1 point
  17. I had thought about tossing a tube in there but ended up not doing it just because I havent had time to run to any metal supplier and with the current situation they're typically closed before I'm done work. I'm planning on inspecting these occasionally and if I see a good bit of flex i'll either add the tubing as suggested or bump up the material thickness by .125in. To be fair though the rona will probably be gone by the time I have this on the road. 😅
    1 point
  18. doing some final testing....(it repeats the dyno clip but there's more)
    1 point
  19. IMHO, stainless steel is one of the most difficult (if not THE most difficult) material to work with for brake and fuel lines. The hardness of SS makes it more difficult to get leak-free connections as compared to softer metals. If the leaks are on the smaller/slower side, you may be able to resolve via loosening and tightening several times....helping the metal to take a "set" within the connection. It also helps to do this with the fixture unbolted from its mounting point (e.g. leave the Master Cylinder unbolted, or at least loose, on the brake booster when tightening the front and rear l
    1 point
  20. Ahh, that is the question people have been trying to answer for a very long time, good luck on quest to find the answer. You might want to join a local Z car club, there will be many guys there that will be willing help you in lots of ways. https://njzclub.com/ https://datsunnissanclub.wordpress.com/tag/nissan-z-club-of-new-jersey/
    1 point
  21. I haven’t actually measured anything aside from jacking up the control arm and making sure the strut didn’t hit the stops right away. I just say that because I’ve never felt any harsh change in the suspension movement. The roads around me in NC are pretty good thankfully. I’ve got KYB shocks and I think that 2+2 Eibachs are actually a little stronger.
    1 point
  22. Thanks for the info. The speedo difference doesn't bother me much. I'd just like to keep the revs down as much as possible when cruising.
    1 point
  23. Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
    1 point
  24. Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
    1 point
  25. Some pretty good info here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134342-Dual-Clutch-Transmission-(DCT)
    1 point
  26. Getting ready to paint the interior of the body shell. While working on this project, I have sort of been pondering how best to rustproof all the non-original lap joints that have resulted from the assorted modifications. Where possible, I primed the blind side of all the parts I welded on with epoxy, but there is still going to be bare metal (burned off) in close proximity to all the welds. There are also multiple seams where I removed the OEM seam sealer/paint and the epoxy in the course of stitch welding the shell. Since these cars like to rust as they come from the factory,
    1 point
  27. Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be
    1 point
  28. So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?
    1 point
  29. Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!
    1 point
  30. I think that they're showing "boxed" body components. Integral reinforcement as you said. Like the rocker panels are one of the most important structural elements of the unibody. People often overlook that area when dealing with rust. The "frame rails" are just added stiffeners. They'll replace the stiffeners and leave the rusted out rocker panels. So, when looking at the cowl, or any body area, look for those reinforced areas. But, I'm not a structural or automotive engineer, so don't put too much weight in to my words. Somebody had a thread on the
    1 point
  31. Still making progress... just slow. The Sequential Transmission is in place. waiting on a driveshaft. look how much space it frees up! I wish I had done this back when we made the tunnel. It could have been so much slimmer. I also did a scan of the back panel. I'm going to make a mesh screen that's custom designed around the lights so the back can vent. It's a particular oddity of the way I built the car. Since behind the driver's seat is a plexiglass panel, the back is open to the ground. The opening in the back panel will allow air to flow up from under the car and over the diff and ideally
    1 point
  32. Just cooked the pads and got some serious heat into the system. No brake cooling to speak of, which with wheels this small and wide is a real problem. The pedal felt alright, but the brake feel just didn't instill the confidence I wanted. I need to do some research and probably some testing to find something that I like. Water and Oil temps were a bigger problem, I could get about 3 hot laps before temps were too high.
    1 point
  33. Here you go, https://tiltonracing.com/product/master-cylinder-reservoirs/ I have always found Tiltons reservoirs fit perfectly on Nissan MC's
    1 point
  34. I got a pair of barley used 370z seats. Fit great, I just need to install new floor pan before I mount them.
    1 point
  35. Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
    1 point
  36. Okay, now driven on both setups i can tell this mod is way stiffer than original. For normal winding roads, brisk thru roundabouts normal setup is more balanced for my use, but on highway driving faster stiffer feels bit safer. Wet auto-x track would be fun to test on both, i think stiffer would understeer a lot.
    1 point
  37. Well I ended up getting the NCRCAs and T3 front triangulated bar installed. Two new tie rods and a fresh alignment (2mm toe out) in the front, I did find that the rear has a pretty big toe in issue. Nothing I can do about that at the moment but the tires don't seem to upset so I will just run with it. I did some more cage work in the mid and rear including a welded STB and connecting the main hoop to the roof rails. I still want to tie the front of the rockers to the frame rails and up to the strut towers but can't find time. The car feels extremely tight and planted now even a lower speed. Th
    1 point
  38. I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
    1 point
  39. Always evolving. Stay tuned for some rear end work. I have found I have slight differences in my rear trailing arms. Even with the adjustable eccentric bushes I am unable to get any neg camber or toe on my right rear. Rather than reinvent the wheel, or add a new subframe we are gonna work on the mounts. The 9 inch rear cost me way to much to start from scratch.....
    1 point
  40. That is definitely repairable on the surface but be prepared to have to replace at least twice as much as what looks rotted. Fortunately, that rot is forward of the engine cross member so I doubt you will have any structural issues. The inside can be extremely difficult to access, damn near impossible in alot of cases. I did a ton of repair work between the firewall and the cross member and I actually ended up cutting out the bottom of the frame in a long segment to make sure I got most of the rust. After welding in fresh coated steal, I drilled a hole open in the frame and sprayed in rust ref
    1 point
  41. Got some more done on the car, finished up the rear of the framelegs endplates, i also went over some of my floor welds that needed it. and some cleaning up of my welds, still some left to do but my angelgrinder wont fit i also cleaned up the front inner plates then i turned my attention to the center console area,
    1 point
  42. Think of what the forces are that your subframe is currently going to be experiencing. It isn't holding the engine up, so all it's doing now is dealing with the lateral forces of your rack and pinion, and bit of vertical force from the front suspension arm rotating in it on each side. Personally I think you'd be better off triangulating the front side to reduce the moment arm your steering rack is going to be putting on it.
    1 point
  43. Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
    1 point
  44. Wrong bolts (to small) between the driveshaft and hub could also clunk under load.
    1 point
  45. Most of the aftermarket brake companies, be it Wilwood, AP Racing, or whatever manufacture calipers intended for front wheel applications, and others for rear wheel applications. The rear oriented calipers will have smaller overall piston area to give you a default "bias" that is in the ballpark for most cars. The bias is fine tuned/corrected with either dual master cylinders and a balance bar, or with an adjustable proportioning valve. Each method has strengths and weaknesses. In general racing/track cars would be best served by a balance bar, and street cars with an adjustable proportion
    1 point
  46. I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted
    1 point
  47. No. Nissan named two differentials the "R200". You'll see people calling them "longnose R200" and "shortnose R200". The longnose R200 came on the 280z, 280zx, and Z31 300zx. The shortnose R200 came on a bunch of Infiniti's in the 90's, and the S14 & S15 and maybe some other vehicles. Before you ask, I don't believe you can just swap the LSD from a shortnose R200 into a longnose R200 without a buncha work. I could be wrong, and as always, almost all of this info is out there already.
    1 point
  48. In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choi
    1 point
  49. Moving along on the suspension and engine mock up. Slow going.......
    1 point
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