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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/27/19 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.
  2. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  3. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  4. 2 points
    The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
  5. 2 points
    Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
  6. 1 point
    one more week to go before Nismo Fiesta. There's a lot still to do. I really only expect to get it put back together and running to be able to get it down there. Real test and tune will have to wait.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks for the info. The speedo difference doesn't bother me much. I'd just like to keep the revs down as much as possible when cruising.
  8. 1 point
    New, wonderful, period-looking, dished and wide competition S30 wheels NEW ! 14x7J ET-16 PCD 4x114.3 CB 73.1 Weight 6.82kgs Color – bronze/anthracite Interior diametre (to pass over brakes and calipers) 345mm. Also fits Nissan PS30-B Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX and other Datsuns. Supplied with centre-hub stickers of either a Z design or REAL WHEELS (specify when ordering please) and an exclusive white, REAL leather key ring. Uses standard, tapered wheel-nuts : tyres (tires) fitted were 195/70x14R Prices (shipping included) : Europe : €920 UK :£936 North America : usd$1390 Australia, NZ, Middle East : usd$1440 /aus$1978 Any questions, measurements required, please don’t hesitate to ask.
  9. 1 point
    Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
  10. 1 point
    Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
  11. 1 point
    Getting ready to paint the interior of the body shell. While working on this project, I have sort of been pondering how best to rustproof all the non-original lap joints that have resulted from the assorted modifications. Where possible, I primed the blind side of all the parts I welded on with epoxy, but there is still going to be bare metal (burned off) in close proximity to all the welds. There are also multiple seams where I removed the OEM seam sealer/paint and the epoxy in the course of stitch welding the shell. Since these cars like to rust as they come from the factory, and this specific one had pretty much dodged that bullet by living it's life in the desert, I did not want to add potential future corrosion areas....at least no more than absolutely necessary. Searching the internet for information on rustproofing car bodies during restoration revealed surprisingly little information. There is no consensus on the best way to do this (short of dip-priming, which for all practical purposes is unobtainable). As usual on the net, there is a wide variety of opinion, and those who seem to know the least are the ones who state their opinion in the most aggressive and obnoxious manner. I have some past experience with POR-15, some of it good, some not so good. But their recommendations for prep practically insisted on using their brand of metal prep followed by washing the surface with water. My project has huge areas of bare metal, and this just sounded like a questionable plan. I couldn't see how I could possibly dry it all quickly enough to avoid flash rust all over the place, including in many areas that I could not easily access to remove. I don't know if this is really absolutely necessary, or if POR-15 just wants to sell their metal prep. But I believed their advice, which led me to look at other products. So I tried "Rust Bullet". I tested it on some scrap metal, it adhered very well even with marginal prep, over light rust, you name it. It was also totally compatible with an overcoat of the epoxy primer I am using in the next step. It is an "apply on rust" product, which I wanted in case some unreachable surface rust has appeared in some of the lap joints during the time I have been working on the car. So after scuffing and cleaning everything, my next step was to apply Rust Bullet, with a brush, to all the joints where I felt there might be a danger of future corrosion. I chose the brush over spraying because it allowed me to force the chemical deep inside the joints in places where welding probably burned away all the primer. Next step is a light scuff on the Rust Bullet, overspray the joints with epoxy primer, seam sealer, then an overall coat of epoxy followed by single stage color. Then, Lizard skin sound/heat in specific areas and finally cover that with Raptor Liner. Thanks for looking.
  12. 1 point
    I made contact with Ohm on his personal fb page, got a quick reply. That was a couple of days ago. He was getting my request taken care of, so good to get a reply, and hopefully will get what I need soon. thanks for the input
  13. 1 point
    Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be it for now. We'll see how it drives and go from there. Onward to engine mounts... after some thought I think I'm going to try to a bit of a hybrid approach from what I was originally thinking. I'll get some more pics up, but basically, I'm thinking i'll incorporate the passenger side engine mount with this sub-frame and the driver side engine mount will be on the front frame rail. I think it's going to work better given the steering column placement and the environment. More to come
  14. 1 point
    QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer, and tilted the rear of the car up in the air and rested it on a frame made 2x6 wood. I was hoping maybe some of you could suggest a relatively good primer to use to keep the car from rusting while I do the body work. Something that I can body fill over before using a a highbuild primer primer before paint? Here are some quick photos, video update coming soon.
  15. 1 point
    Why do you want disc brakes on the rear? I ask because any kind of brake on the back is still only get the set amount of brake fluid pressure that the M/C and stock proportioning valve will allow and that amount is just right for the stock drums. Or I should say just the right amount for the rear wheel cylinders, it is engineered to be a balanced system. Putting disc brakes on the rear with everything else in the system being stock could lead to the calipers not applying enough pressure making stop times longer or they may lock up the rear sooner than the front which really is not a good thing. After having tried all the usual brake combinations that are popular for 240z's I can say with conviction, If you want better brakes then remove the stock balanced system and replace it with another balanced system, a system that has been designed to work together.
  16. 1 point
    Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!
  17. 1 point
    I had a hell of a time getting my SBC V1.0 started on my first go around, replaced just about everything external to the engine with new stuff. Turns out it was way too retarded and any attempt to start failed or resulted in a backfire. Here is what I finally did and suggest that you do as well. -Remove #1 spark plug and valve cover (removing the timing cover is preferred but not easy) -Find top dead center of the compression stroke via methods already discussed (align crank and cam dots if you have the cover off, more accurate) -Take note of the position of your harmonic balancer "zero" line and mark it on the timing cover (I use paint marker) -Line up the rotor with #1 spark plug pole on the cap -disconnect vacuum advance -Rotate the distributor 15-20 degrees counterclockwise (if you have a clear cap this is very easy, I usually set mine so the rotor is resting just before the leading edge of the cap pole) It should fire right off, I use this method now every time I have to resent timing for various reasons and it works without fail. Now this is only a starting point and you will yield too much advance to most distributors but makes for easy first starts if you are doing a new engine break in. What I have learned is that it takes a pretty serious carb or intake issue for the car not to start AT ALL, running poorly is a different issue. If it still won't fire run a wire directly from the battery positive to the distributor 12v terminal and check your ground connections, the problems a bad ground can cause are immense and frustrating.
  18. 1 point
    So, I guess it worked , I am able to get a bit of camber and a bit of toe equal on both sides. Easier to control on throttle oversteer now. Here is how I spent my weekend
  19. 1 point
    Just wanted to follow up with a bit of a progress update. I started stripping paint and bondo, used a head gun and a scrapper to get started, I guess I'll move on to a wire wheel at some point. The roof didn't look to bad, here is a wider view of the cracked area previously uncovered. I still can't figure out why it had any bondo at all there... The other side looks slightly worse, notably the seam, and then some rust on the inside the weatherstripping was covering... An example of some paint bubbling up with a bit of rust underneath at the rear of the hatch area that needs addressed... Spare tire well had a lot of rust, but still seems structurally sound... The fender that was the worst of my fears, not much more to say there that hasn't already been said... And the front part of the fender and rocker panel, this is the new area I'm most scared about. Looks like untreated rust just got covered in bondo and ignored...
  20. 1 point
    I just posted this in Electrical but here it is as well. Speedhut fuel gauge and MeterMatch Like a lot of others I’ve had issues with the Speedhut fuel gauge playing nicely with the stock fuel tank sender. I would get wild swings and was never really sure how much fuel I had. After some discussions on the Speedhut group buy thread I decided to get a MeterMatch from Technoversions. It basically takes the ohm readings from the sender and converts them to a more stable range for the gauge. So here is how I attacked this. I tried to install it without pulling the sender and it was just not working. And during the course of this I was getting some erroneous readings from the sender. So I drained the tank all the way and pulled the sender. I brought the sender into the car so I could manually move it to see what was going on. I set the fuel gauge back to default of 240 empty and 33 full. I then used the MeterMatch to set full and empty calibration. To calibrate you used up and down buttons to move the gauge needle and then save it when you get it where you want it. I had a really hard time since a single button push moved the needle almost a 1/4 tank. I ended up getting it close with MM and then doing a final calibration with the gauge. This worked really well. I reinstalled the sending unit and rewired it with a new good ground and a dedicated sender wire straight to the MM. I have a 16 gal tank. I put in 2 gallons and the meter read 1/8 and was stable. So far so good. I put in two more and it was a little above 1/4. Still good but I wanted to try the lower mid point calibration. As before the button presses moved the needle a ton. But I noticed the needle wasn’t stopping at the same place. I found I could walk the needle around by different combinations. I went to the gas station and put in four more gallons and the gauge read 1/2. Four more and I was a little above 3/4. Went for a drive and the needle was really steady compared to what I had before. Let’s face it a lever arm sender is going to have a lot of movement and if the gauge isn’t designed for that sender then it’s only going to be so good. So I got back to the shop and contacted Brian at Technoversions with questions about the up down calibration. Here is his reply: With regard to the MeterMatch, what you are seeing with the up/down resolution is on purpose. Most gauges use a fair amount of current, so if we made the buttons work at full resolution, you could be pressing one of the up/down buttons a thousand times to go from end to end. So we make the buttons move the amount in larger increments. But to make the points in-between accessible, we make the increments between up and down slightly different, so that all values can be selected. This is hardly noticeable on most gauges, but on some electronic gauges, such as the one you have, much less current is necessary so you are working within a small range of values, so the resolution appears to be much coarser. But you should be able to get there. So you can hit a specific target with the right combo but I will tell you it is a challenge. You can get the needle where you want it and after you take it out of program mode it changes. I set the upper mid point calibration the best I could considering the heat index in Florida right now and may revisit it in the future. From 3/4 tank and up I don’t care if it is accurate and truth be told as long as I can count on 1/4 tank being stable and accurate I’ll be happy. So to sum up. I would run a separate dedicated ground and signal wire first since in all reality that may have been the bulk of my issues. I already had the MM so I used it. If That doesn’t work for you then: Purchase MM from Technoversions Set the fuel gauge to default ohms since that is where it was designed to work. Use the MM calibration to get the needle to full and empty as best you can. I wouldn’t get too crazy with the button pushes since you are going to set the final calibration with the gauge. Recalibrate the Speedhut fuel gauge. Install the sender and use known amounts of fuel to check calibration. I plan on draining the tank when it reads 1/4 and if I have 4 gallons then I’m golden. I’ll update this thread after I drive it a bit as well.
  21. 1 point
    I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake booster, all new Cunifer brake lines, SS flex hoses and Wilwood 120-6816 4 piston calipers on the rear. The fronts brakes were not tested. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I warmed up the brakes a bit then tried a panic stop, PS rear lock up but none of the others. Tried the same thing again and the DS front locked up but none of the others so I’m pretty close but will continue to test and play with it. So the front brakes are now getting 1200psi and rear 575psi. https://youtu.be/FWQ2V-w1Av4 For some reason the 3rd vid won't embed but the link is above.
  22. 1 point
    Fuel reserve warning light stopped working a while back so (after confirming continuity of the yellow/blue wire from the sender to the light) I changed the sender and the issue has been resolved. I used a replacement unit from @zcardepot.com which is of excellent quality, has the exact same factory connections and cost $78 (compared to the unit offered by MSA at $200 plus you need to splice in a different connector!!!). I made a wrench out of 2" PVC pipe to turn the lock ring very easily, which makes the whole job a breeze. With a Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of one end of a 6" section of straight pipe to coincide with the 4 crests that jut out from the top of the lock ring. A 90 degree elbow at the other end of the pipe makes for easy turning. I also cleaned up and painted the edges of the access port with bed liner, and replaced the weatherstripping foam on the inside of the cover. Pics below.
  23. 1 point
    That is definitely repairable on the surface but be prepared to have to replace at least twice as much as what looks rotted. Fortunately, that rot is forward of the engine cross member so I doubt you will have any structural issues. The inside can be extremely difficult to access, damn near impossible in alot of cases. I did a ton of repair work between the firewall and the cross member and I actually ended up cutting out the bottom of the frame in a long segment to make sure I got most of the rust. After welding in fresh coated steal, I drilled a hole open in the frame and sprayed in rust reformer, let that set up for a few days and then hit it with internal frame coating. Opening up the bottom of the frame all the way back to the firewall will give you access to the inside and let you determine what needs to be done. Fortunately, the vertical sides are what carry the load here, the bottom can usually be removed without compromising structural integrity as long as the motor is out of the car, which it appears to be. I would just assume that you will have to replace the entire bottom of the frame from half a foot forward of that rot all the way back to the firewall. It slopes down towards the firewall so if any moisture was trapped in the frame it would accumulate towards that area most likely.
  24. 1 point
    https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?&page=4#comments
  25. 1 point
    Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating.
  26. 1 point
    Always one of my favorites Yasin. Please make some new videos of this car and the 951 as well.
  27. 1 point
    Hey everyone, glad to be here. I'm Adam and I live in Charleston, SC. Long story short, I was finally reunited with my dad's Z after almost 8 years of it being parked in my grandma's garage. It runs and drives fine now and I plan on just maintaining it and keeping it alive for my 3 yr old son to drive when his time comes. I know I'll have questions coming up but, for the record, I have an FSM and I'm not afraid to use it. Having said that, I'm looking forward to learning from all of you.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    hx jhm, I just followed up advise from NewZed again, tightened downcomer. Looked up some more internet youtube's how to discover if there is a blown-out gasket. I stated up, with radiator cap of. It started right up again, no smoke, and i could see a flow in the radiator. No signs of bubbles there. After about 30 seconds, white smoke again, which did disappeared after like 2 minutes. Some smoke coming from engine after some time, but felt it was some residue on the exhaust shield. So kept running. No leaks, and all smoke gone. Figure for now, all fine. Radiator was warming up (car was on for about 15 minutes, and i drove a bit), but no change in oil temp or water temp gauges (need to check that). I did just touch the block, valve block and valve cover to see how hot they were. They were hot but i could still touch them, and good sign the radiator was getting warm. Figure, all looks fine for now. Did order gasket set, just in case Was trying to upload some movies... but no luck. What I also did, is open the oil lid, engine changed speed right away and was about to die, so put it back on, and all back again. Seems vacuum system is okay. VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4
  30. 1 point
    Made the parts for the battery tray area, need to welded in the last part. also finished the plates that will tie my new framerails to the old ones in the enginebay
  31. 1 point
    Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
  32. 1 point
    Had to custom make a couple of offset interior door handles, as the stock ones would not clear the roll cage door bars. I knew this was going to be an issue, and initially planned to just use a couple of pull-cables to open the doors, but that introduced issues as well. Namely, the cable handles, unless very small, wanted to hang down and get caught when trying to close the doors. This was a bit more work, but hopefully a better long term solution. Basically they differ from stock only in moving the lever approximately two inches downward so they open freely below the door bars.
  33. 1 point
    Thought I would drop a few pictures and an update here before starting a build thread and informational text/videos for others to reference. I have the engine ready for a clean up, inspected the cylinders which were pristine, and turned it by hand. Got all of the pieces together to send to ZFever for the wiring harness service. I’ll be posting about the adventure in finding the wiring parts soon.
  34. 1 point
    Heck ya, axles looking good. Btw, 2018 mustang stick v8 cars are using gt350 axles. Gt350 axles are basically the same right axle, but the left has been increased in diameter and cv size. They will not work for this conversion. So you need v8 axles 2015 to 2017 and 2018 must be v8 automatic axles.
  35. 1 point
    started knocking out the driver side front wheel well. I wanted to try this peice as one entire sheet of steel I quickly learned Im a jabroni when it comes to sheet metal shaping 😅. I ended up dividing the peice into four smaller squares and shaping them like that. Everything was started as a paper template, I typically use ram board. It can be sourced locally and is affordable for the amount of material you get. From there everything was transfered over to sheet metal and was snipped with hand shears to its rough shape. I cut off more than I required when cutting the sheet metal and then I did final trimming as I required it. Everything was rolled out on a cheap english wheel (princess auto special) than planished by hand.
  36. 1 point
    Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
  37. 1 point
    No. Nissan named two differentials the "R200". You'll see people calling them "longnose R200" and "shortnose R200". The longnose R200 came on the 280z, 280zx, and Z31 300zx. The shortnose R200 came on a bunch of Infiniti's in the 90's, and the S14 & S15 and maybe some other vehicles. Before you ask, I don't believe you can just swap the LSD from a shortnose R200 into a longnose R200 without a buncha work. I could be wrong, and as always, almost all of this info is out there already.
  38. 1 point
    Hood pins/latches and vents installed:
  39. 1 point
    @ETI2K, since you asked about corrosion control...these are two good products to consider. Have used both for several years with good results. https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Dynatron-Auto-Seam-Sealer-Caulk/?N=5002385+3293193911&rt=rud
  40. 1 point
    Personally I have stopped using weldthru primer, useless. Stitch weld, clean everything up well, 2k epoxy prime, continuous bead of seam sealer just the way OEM does then paint and undercoat. Good for another 40yrs.
  41. 1 point
    I'm going from memory here, but the shaft sits in the oil pump and then the whole assembly is fed up into the timing cover from below. The crankshaft drive gear, pulley, and everything else (including the whole timing setup) can already be assembled at this point. The oil pump/distributor shaft will rotate along with the helix of the drive gear as it comes into mesh. Hence the difficulty some have in getting the shaft properly aligned with TDC. Tapping it downwards will just reverse this motion, though it may give some trouble in this situation, same with everything else. Though I'm starting to think op might find these parts unusable anyway based on the amount of persuasion they are needing.
  42. 1 point
    You may already know this trick; but one of the best ways to tackle that frozen bolt is to weld a nut on the remaining portion of the bolt shaft. It would still be a good idea to hit the bolt with heat and penetrating oil; but after the pump's off, you can apply directly where it enters the block and get the heat and oil much closer to the problem area.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    I am using the roll bar hoop dimensions that 74_5.0L_Z graciously posted and wanted to make sure that it would also work for a 280z as well.
  45. 1 point
    You're in the entirely wrong area, but here you go
  46. 1 point
    So, I was randomly looking back through my old posts and stumble back on my intro for HBZ. 5 years ago I got hooked on Datsuns. I stopped posting to focus on reading and learning more. Because of the overwhelming amount of information available about these cars I didn’t find it necessary to ask many questions. I stopped updating my introduction after i bought the 76 280z. The 280z has come along way since then! In the past 5 years it’s seen a lot of redoing. Iv’e changed wheels, flares, engines, ECUs, a few times. Although not the most efficient way to modify a car, it is allowing me to learn, improve and keeps me interested in the process. My only underlying goal with modifying it is to keep pushing toward the car having a “special” feeling to it. I can’t define a “special” feeling exactly but it’s a feeling i would like to have when i look at the car in the garage, sit in it, show it off, and while driving. A few years ago I swapped the l28 for a l28et. My first engine swap. It went pretty well and the experience was a huge confidence booster. It made the car feel way better on the highway and the exhaust note was awesome! The next year i decided to hop up the power a little and add Injectors, FP, larger turbo, IC, 3in exhaust and MegaSquirt. I had some help tuning and was able to learn a bunch about wiring and street tuning. The power gain was pretty substantial. Although I did not get a change to dyno it, my guess is it made around 300hp with a lot of torque. I really felt like this was the sweet spot for the car. Enough power to feel “fast” compared to a modern car, but not too crazy. A few months later I decided to start liking the Gnose. The Gnose really transformed the look of the car. I took the car to Gridlife Midwest and it won Best JNC classic! A proud moment for me as it was my first car show and i honestly didn’t build it with the intent of entering or winning any. Last winter the Z got some greatly needed upgraded wheels, and a RB25 fell into my lap. I wanted to keep the white blue contrast going and had some Wantanabe RS8s custom built for the Z. The wheel size and width are totally for athletic purposes and I’m fine with that. I had been wanting to do a RB swap since before i did the l28et swap, they where just too pricey at the time. That winter I stumble across a cheap local RB25 for sale locally, and decided to take the plunge. I refreshed all of the accessories on the RB and installed an upgraded turbo, turbo manifold, ECU Masters EMU Black, custom wiring harness, 1000cc injectors, even larger FP, fuel rail, and open dump external waist gate. I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the engine bay. People would always ask me to see the turbo swap and with how messy the bay was before i was kinda embarrassed to. I learned so much during the first swap the RB swap came out so much cleaner and came together much more easily than i would have thought. This time I did all of the initial tuning myself and took it to the dyno to get it fine tuned under boost. Made 400hp on 93. The RB25 make the car feel much more modern and refined when not in boost. On boost its pretty intense! It kinda feels like having a loaded gun on you. I was missing with the idea of tuning it on e85 but i think I am good with the power it has for now. I’m also still using the u-joints in the rear, so I am planning to upgrade the whole rear end soon. Also happened to win a showcase award at Clean Culture MI! In all, I've been humbled by how much other people enjoy the car. I've met interesting people, made good friends from people just starting conversations about it. HBZ has been a constant resource for me throughout this project. Thank you all for the quality info and keeping the forum alive!
  47. 1 point
    I'm not familiar with the EFI stuff but where is the PCV valve located on that manifold? Are there any other possible oil paths into the intake that you haven't explored, outside of the stem seal and piston rings?
  48. 1 point
    Here are the steps I took to make the unit work in my Z Thanks for the drop box mtnickel https://www.dropbox.com/s/uwtsk97izkkz4uo/240Z-steering.pptx?dl=0
  49. 1 point
    It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
  50. 1 point
    I don't know how much lower the front of the diff will be with that mount, but there is a shorter version of the energy suspension mount that would help bring the nose of the diff back up some. Look into part number 3.1158
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