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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/27/20 in Posts

  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there
    3 points
  2. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back.
    2 points
  3. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the
    2 points
  4. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  5. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  6. Hi all! Restoring a rusted 240z series 1, SCCA vintage race car. Car last raced in 02'. Currently rebuilding to group EP spec's. I figured id start a new thread summarize my plans and progress. Il just add progress photo's to this thread. Thanks for reading! Engine: L24 Block – OEM bore, stroke. OEM materials. Not modified Head – N42 core Modifications: polished bowls. Valve seat de-shrouded. Minor reliefs cut around seats, but within ID spec of gasket. Ch
    1 point
  7. Thanks for the comments. I am in the process of building it now. The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work. I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it. I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading. For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading. Points taken on the front brakes. I'll definitely look to get something better. I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration. I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet. I was looking at the
    1 point
  8. I got a hold of Joe on FB, he did fold up Chequered Flag. Never met him in person but talked to him on the phone a handful of times and found him to be a good guy. Bummer at losing another good vendor.
    1 point
  9. WOW, I can't believe it! Where can I sign up for this amazing offer?
    1 point
  10. There's an article about the KN20 head on Road and Track, nice to see this thing get some recognition. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a37360407/datsunworks-kn20-head-brings-dohc-to-the-240z/
    1 point
  11. hi! I printed it out of PLA, with 5 walls and 30% infill. the 5 walls were probably overkill. there wasn`t much pressure even pushing the center in, and the mold is SOLID. Here is an image of the cross section of the mold.. there is also a center plug and a tiny plug that sticks in the side, to create hole in the part that sticks out. here is all the parts, including the bolt that I used to squish the center in... essentially, since I wasn't pouring in material, I was injecting very slowly and painfully from a caulking gun,
    1 point
  12. I would recommend to use 16" rims as then you can also upgrade brakes to large size with no issues. I am running 16" x 8" with 245 45's on all four corners with no flares no rubbing https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=94545&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=235/&rearRatio=50&rearDiameter=15 You can get these all street legal tires: Yokohama A008P, Advan AN052, Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Pirelli Pzero Rosso, Pirelli Pzero Collezione, Pirelli Cinturato P7 in 245 45 16
    1 point
  13. My column is as Clark described, 3/4 DOM tubing held by separate rod ends (specially sized for 3/4 tube) and then I used the Woodward weld in splines and their u-joints for the weld in splines and a special Woodward u-joint for the rack. For the collapsing piece I used a Woodward part inside the car near the steering wheel. It has 5 to 7 inches of telescoping as I recall. My plan was to make a trick system that allowed you to pull a lever and move the steering wheel up and almost to the windshield rather than removing the wheel. It was an idea I had thought for driver changes watching frie
    1 point
  14. Old post. But I am the new guy so oh well. The sunroofs I have seen they seem to upset the lines on the roof. If you could have one that is flush and followed the natural curvature of the roof, then no problem. I guess I can like them either way but my #1 preference, is no sunroof. 🙂
    1 point
  15. Zdayz was a lot of fun this year. Looking to do more activities there next year.
    1 point
  16. I've never seen that thread before, so much good info! Thanks
    1 point
  17. Quite the fleet! We've got a 1987 BMW 325e (AKA Garbage heap), my 1997 12v Ram 2500, a 20' enclosed and my wife's tesla out front. So a similar hodgepodge of junk. The Z lives in a 1946 2 car garage, so a root cellar with a wine nook haha. I'll be sure to post up when I make it down to the Willow area, see if some of you Cali folks want to come make a day of it!
    1 point
  18. Hello, I just wanted to thank everyone for all your support and suggestions, I did narrowed things down and it was the camshaft, I already replaced it and added a new timing chainsaw well, the car operates well now, I know is a long journey but the car has everything operational, I just need to open a new trend about a good radiator. Best regards.
    1 point
  19. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
    1 point
  20. [Holly Shiiittte. I have dreamed of this many times and realize your difficulties. On gear ratio, I am facing a similar problem. I have a Jerico 4 speed in the car I am building which is always 1:1 in 4th for those in the know. I am looking at multiple tire diameters but limited to 16 or smaller on rim. Smaller the better for weight. But Daytona is one of the tracks I must build for, and that is max speed whatever your car will do. So unless I can move to a 3.3 or lower gear or I will need to increase tire diameter. So I am thinking about a 26-27 tall 15" tire (think Nascar) or swapping a Ford
    1 point
  21. Was thinking my first set from GC in '95 or so had 5" adjusters. Just to clarify. Looks to me like you might run the spring to the bottom of the adjuster without getting the ride height you want. You could grind the perch off of the strut tube, but that's a hassle. The other solution is to run a shorter spring. Shortest spring that doesn't coil bind is always the best choice because it's lighter and it will resist bending sideways when it compresses. I started off with 10's, worked down to 8's and now run 7's, but I also have super stiff springs and run very low, so don't need 6" of travel.
    1 point
  22. One thing I add to these are safety washers on the outside of the rod ends on the strut. In case you need a link here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Washer-Prevent-Twelve-Through/dp/B07RB7RWMB. I think if you search around you can get a better price but it's been years since I've bought any. Cary
    1 point
  23. Awesome thank you so much!!!
    1 point
  24. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
    1 point
  25. Hello everyone on the Forum. New member in the LA area. Just a acquired a ran when parked 1973 Lime, 240 Z. Its was in decent shape for the price. Hope to get it running soon. I have almost no info on the V8 other than what I can find on the internet. Block is from a 1976 C60 truck or bus. Heads look like 882 casting 76cc smog heads. Edlebrock performer intake and Holley 4bbl carb. 4L80 transmission, BM Quick Silver shifter. has no other upgrades that i can tell so far. Hope to learn a lot from the forum.
    1 point
  26. I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.
    1 point
  27. I got the sizing on my master cylinders directly from Tilton. Their tech support is great...they offer assistance without talking down to you or trying to sell you big $$$$$ items you don't need. Anyway, they took weight (anticipated at the time) of my car, weight distribution, front/rear rotor sizes, caliper piston areas, and other variables to recommend master cylinder size. I told them I wanted to lean toward relatively light pedal pressure, and I followed the sizing they recommended. Once it was all working though, because of my pedal position I found I was getting just a bi
    1 point
  28. Just a few visual examples
    1 point
  29. Here's a picture of my current rear arms. The inner portion pivots on rod ends and both outer ends that attach to the upright are adjustable. I am currently designing another set that has the short outer adjustable arm towards the front of the car instead of at the rear. Absolutely no issues with these though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
    1 point
  30. The idea behind the spindle locking pin is that it is an extra safety mechanism. If you lose one or both nuts and washers on the spindle pin it can't slide out, assuming you have one that can actually be removed without the use of a large press. I have used a bolt in mine an no pin or similar mechanism and have no plan to ever again. That said I do regular bolt/nut checks on my car as part of their maintenance, which a large portion of the public think is either silly or a complete waste of time. Probably the same people who shouldn't be driving an old car without all the modern nannies or
    1 point
  31. You are absolutely correct. Since I posted this, I went back and checked the rule book. No way this will compete in ITS. It has been lightened extensively. No way I can add-back 200lbs to meet the min weight, amongst other things. This car will continue as spec EP, but will qualify for some other vintage specs (beyond SCCA). If I race it myself, It will likely be vintage club and maybe SCCA vintage racing, as I don’t have the time to train or funds to compete in EP (at least for the time being). I had a great conversation with @gnosez and he was super helpful! Going to take her to
    1 point
  32. Nope. Unless they've changed the rules since I left, you are not only limited to a 0.5 compression ratio increase, but you are also limited to 0.025 machined off the head to achieve that. If you exceed that the head gasket thickness won't matter. You also have to run stock type pistons. There are many things engine, suspension, cage et al that you can do in EP but cannot in ITS. If you're anywhere near competitive in EP you'll be illegal in ITS. Build one of the other, IMHO.
    1 point
  33. Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.
    1 point
  34. Aydin71 - I fully understand that you have certain regulations and rules limiting what you can and can't do. I should be very upfront and admit I'm a Quaife or OS Giken fan even though I have run an '89 LSD unit for years. The late John Coffey got me into OS Giken after testing a unit giving him a full second over the Quaife and 2.5 over the LSD unit. Quaife is good for life even if you race it. I'm on the east coast so shipping would be expensive but I would look for someone selling a Datsun R180 in the right ratio for you (3:90/4:11/4:38?) and then install a Quaife or OS Giken. You c
    1 point
  35. No updates for a while. We had a small vibration, not really bad, just annoying, and of course right at 65-70 MPH. When my wife drove the car we had the 3.07 differential in it, one attempt at finding the vibration. We put the 3.73 back in (whole chunk, nothing is shared between the two). And the vibration came back. Drive shaft out, re balanced, re tubed, trans out, looking for something, anything that may cause vibration. Half shafts out, again. Trans UP diff, down to get angles better. They were not far off before. All in attempt to cure this vibration. Called a loca
    1 point
  36. Realize I am late chiming in here, but what the heck. What Grannyknot said is correct, and right on the money. The metal directly above the rear view mirror is critical. I don't know if you are planning to do any of the work yourself but if so I would strongly suggest taking the car to a trusted body shop and have them put the car on a frame machine and having the roof straightened as best possible BEFORE ANY SHEET METAL IS REMOVED! Do not cut anything without having this done first! The right side A-pillar will come back to its correct position if the shop knows what they are doing. Think of
    1 point
  37. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! I reached out to Fritz and he showed me another source for the LSD. Il be placing an order for his shafts shortly. I think this will be the best value overall, given the 20-30lbs weight savings and the LSD.
    1 point
  38. Go for it. Take some pictures, it will be good entertainment. Are we talking Sawzall, hacksaw, file, grinder? Make a video. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD11S6PC357322 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S4RC354902 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S0MC421925
    1 point
  39. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  40. When I was four years old I went with my dad to look at a 1982 280zx 2+2 with T tops (black pearl). It had the voice that would speak remind you to turn off your headlights, tan leather with ZX embossed into it. I watched my dad shift the gears and looked at all of the cool switches and interior bits since I wasn't big enough to look out the window. When we got back to the sellers house I proclaimed "This is the best car ever, we will take it!". I'm sure my Dad wanted to kill me for ruining negotiations. This would be my Dad's second Zx, and over the years he bought 15- 20 more. Al
    1 point
  41. thanks again for the suggestion. These do look to keep the spring and shock concentric. I’m happy with the build quality. They asked me for very detailed dimensions on the shock To verify figment. just got some more undercoating work to do in the wheel wells and they will be going in.
    1 point
  42. I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point t
    1 point
  43. If the guy who's going to buy your car in 2, 5, 20 years could talk to you now, he'd beg you not to use fiberglass.
    1 point
  44. At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
    1 point
  45. Nevermind...a half dozen clamps, a lot of swearing, and perhaps 2-3 years off my life got the job done.
    1 point
  46. Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV
    1 point
  47. That coat hanger trick looks good. I was planning on drilling and pinning, but that looks simpler and will give that a shot. If I mess it up, I can always fall back to plan B, buying replacement locks. Thanks for the links!
    1 point
  48. No, I only have one Z at the moment. The point I was trying to make is that I've owned several over the years; but I've never been willing to spend a big chunk of money on a nice one...opting instead to buy junkers and restore them myself. It's a satisfying process to build your own car, exactly the way you want it, vs buying something already pre-built.
    1 point
  49. 2 Months later ..... I've made some good progress, great progress really. I've been able to prototype 3 different revisions of actual engine mounts, and settle on a final version and fabricate them. I 've gotten the steering linkage sorted out, I put the pedal in for the first time with their lines connected to the bulkhead, and I got the engine wiring installed (very temporarily) and actually started it up for the first time in the car, with the whole drivetrain connected. So, engine mounts first. 3D printer was working overtime again going a few different versions. I ended
    1 point
  50. I'd be interested to hear a more in depth discussion of why mounting the diff and rear control arms to the two largest pieces of hardware in the rear of the car (that go through the rear frame rails) isn't such a good idea? Maybe something that integrates the locating holes. On my car, the factory dropdowns were woefully inadequate. Pretty flexy in lateral loading, the only real thing preventing shift was pressure from the opposite wheel. It's even been suggested by several members on my build thread to connect the factory mustache bolts to the rear control arm pickup points for a
    1 point
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