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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/27/18 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
  2. 2 points
    Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
  3. 2 points
    Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  4. 2 points
    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.
  7. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  8. 1 point
    The current prototype... modified to use 5/8" bolts directly, without the sleeves on the Z31 mount, this saves some cost.
  9. 1 point
    Hey guys, after a 6 year hiatus I am returning with yet another Z project. Going full tilt this time, LS, and effing turbo. Found a '75 that has been sitting for 25 years.
  10. 1 point
    1975 2 seater with what we call over here the Californian floor pans due to the provision of a bulge for the cat converter of the day and a very irregular metal pressing check back when I have the pans this isn’t as hard as it looks
  11. 1 point
    Ok, just took the 77/280 off the rotisserie so had a chance to weigh it, this is just the shell, all paint was removed then 2 coats of epoxy primer were applied and 2 coats of undercoat, the only thing left on the car is the vinyl headliner and the 2 rear wheel arch vinyls. Now I'm not 100% on this method but I couldn't think of any other way to do it with what I had on hand. With the car level the rear measurement was taken with the car hanging from the rotisserie bar that bolts on where the tie down hooks usually are, then jacks were placed under the rear rotisserie bar and the front was weighed hanging from the front rotisserie bar that is bolted to where the bumper shocks attach just in front of the radiator support. I checked the accuracy of the crane scale by lifting my small anvil which I know is 118 lbs and it was bang on, I have to apologize, I forgot to take a pic of the rear measurement but it weighed 289 lb, front was 246 lbs 289lbs 246lbs 535lbs minus the 6lbs of the rotisserie bars, is 529 lbs Someone with better geometry skills than me will have to verify if the method I used is valid.
  12. 1 point
    Lol yeah, I assumed as much. Figured on that first compression/decompression plastic ones would pop fairly quickly.
  13. 1 point
    Not much to report as the weather in the mid-west has been less than desirable. I got all of the drum brake parts removed and realized that my driver's side rear wheel bearing is starting to go bad. I attempted to use my slide hammer but have been unsuccessful with getting the stub axle removed. I'm waiting for a warmer day (anything above 50*) to take a space heater out there to warm up that area, blow torch it a bit, and then use the slide hammer again. Several parts arrived in January, which is always exciting. I snagged the AZC Mustache bar and brace used for about $250 less than retail. I was also able to find and buy a really clean finned diff cover, which pretty much completed the rear diff set up. At this point, it feels like I'll never have the rear end work done in time to drive the car in the spring, but I'll keep pushing through. I attached some pictures of the new parts below. I haven't mentioned this in my past posts, but I'm the outside sales manager at C&R Racing. I'm personally working on product development for many different platforms, including swapped S30s. The engineers and I are working on a dual pass set up that will work with both LS and RB/JZ swaps. I can keep everyone posted on that development in this thread.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Folks, maybe its interesting for some of you so I like to share the process on my Z with you. Normally I import cars from JP to Germany but my Z is from the lone star state Texas and find its way to Germany this spring. Little curious story: The last TX owner lived 1mi from Gasmonkey Garage and as you all know they had build a Datsun before last Semi. I think mine was in too bad shape so Richard don't bought it for the build, but anyway.. I bought my car at the 19.03 this year from a Moviecardealer in Berlin and get it into m garage a few days later. Because of oo many other project the car sits in my yard for some weeks before I can start. End of April I striped it down and get it blasted and primed. After That I had startet with some welding jobs, but theres nothing to bad so I will finish that next week and the car cango to the paint shop. This is hot it actually looks: Some test fittings. I also cleaned put the whole engine bay and make everything smooth and nice. The interesting part will follow after the car would came back from the painter in Slate Gray. Following Parts are waiting in my garage for the install after the paint or are in transit: SR20DET with Stock S15 top mounted Turbo, complete handmade 3" exhaust, Apexi Power FC and wiring specialities harness Sparco Seats, Black leather interior with grey stitch, Nardi Steering, New Center Console, Speedhut Gauges, AEM AFR All underneath is black or red powder coated with new PU-Bushes BC Racing Coils and 10x17 and 8,5x17 Japan Racing Wheels with Federal RSR Semi Slicks, complete R33 Skyline Brake System with extra Handbrake Caliper Front Aidam, 240Z Style Bumpers and Fender Flares There are a lot more little modifications, will update more interesting thinks after car is at the paintshop and I can start to put the engine together and do some fabrication. Have a nice Sunday. Alex
  15. 1 point
    Thanks! I looked into that at one point, too, with the swp but they all seemed to mount too far out and would either hit the inner fender well or not clear the hood. This bracket kit for the lwp is pretty simple, looks clean, and worked well with my mostly stock wiring.
  16. 1 point
    Depends what you want. I like 16s and can confirm that with narrow coilover conversion RBR 16x8 +10 fit with stock arches and 225 tyres, anything that brings the wheel further to the outside of the car than this could potentially lead to the need to run 215s although you may get way with a 0 offset. Usually more choice in 15" by the way but I prefer 16" and need it to clear my brakes. Good tip, don't use the forum search, use google using hybridz.org at the start, always gets better results. I searched when I was a newbie and it took a lot of time, but the answers are there. Just make sure to check more than 1 source, ideally more than two.
  17. 1 point
    Yes there was a batch that wasn't annealed properly. Somehow they slipped thru their QC. Common problem is what you see here too hard the end just snaps off. If you have a set you would like to have checked please send them back to me. I will take care of it for you. Sorry for the inconvenience. FYI the manufacture just upped their price on each part by $50.00. So that puts my cost at $750.00 plus shipping almost what they sell them for. Don't forget I need to buy 10 parts at a time. Thanks Joe
  18. 1 point
    NOT rattle cans. Because of some extenuating circumstances (I bought a house) I was recently forced to ramp up some parts of my project in order to get the car movable to the new location. Part of the dilemma was having an assembled LS6 on an engine stand without a great way to move it. So, I decided to finish up the engine bay (didn't want to paint with motor installed) so I could install the motor/trans for ease of transport. I had done quite a bit of research on engine bay paints and auto paints in general and kept coming back to the Rusto jobs for a few reasons: Ease of touch ups: this car is going to be a driver, which means turning wrenches and wear and tear so there are bound to be scuff/ scratches. Cost: ties into the above but it was also going to be $150 just in materials for the engine bay using the same paint I had planned on doing on the body. Durability: When done properly, I keep reading that the proper Rusto mix can be as hard as tractor paint (read: tough as nails). Current conditions: It's cold here. Full winter mode which doesn't play well will most automotive pants (typically need 60*+). It was 55* in the garage when I sprayed the bay (with the help of a space heater) and hasn't been above 45 degrees in the past week and a half. So, I elected to use the 8:4:1 method. 8 Parts paint (Rustoleum Satin Black), 4 parts reducer(Duplicolor BG906), 1 part hardener (Omni MH202). Hardener was the most expensive part by far ($40/pint) but I've got a bunch left over so that's a plus. Applied with a good old HF HPLV $14.95 spray gun @ 40psi at the gun First pictures are after the second coat was applied and still wet. After about an hour: It look a solid 30-45 minutes to flash in between coats (again, cold). After 24 hours it wasn't fingernail hard but a week later it's just as hard as the factory paint on my Tahoe. I have enough left to do the interior, but I'm not sure if I'll do the exterior in it (wouldn't be black. Maybe the dark gray). Anyway, we'll see how it holds up trying to get the motor in and I'l report back.
  19. 1 point
    280zx has a completely different body. Why would it?
  20. 1 point
    Oh yeah thanks for the reminder. I do have the original seats, if anyone wanted them. But the new seats are cooler
  21. 1 point
    Probably the "reaction disc" in the booster. A common enough problem that it has an FAQ entry. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/
  22. 1 point
    I can't tell you how many times I have watched your Youtube videos and had a smile from ear to ear with the sound of your car ZRedBaron.... Amazing!!!
  23. 1 point
    $2995 can’t see myself paying that when there are other companies with great stuff like azc, techno, silvermine. The guys at Sema loved the z car garage brakes, but $2995.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I figured that would be the answer. I saw that some of the trucks had the drillless mounts. For now I’ll keep it off on the z thanks again
  26. 1 point
    There's been a lot of good replies to your question of how to build your car. I wanted to share some hindsight from a number of projects I've been involved with over the years. In the end you'll decide if any of this is useful or not. 1. One of the toughest decisions you'll be faced with is do you want a street car that can tracked or a track car that's street legal. Those may sound like the same thing but they are from from it. The first involves adding performance using the Z chassis for the most part similar to the Green Hornet mentioned above. The latter is much more like building a chassis and dropping the Z body onto it. This gets you more to a car like the Fairlady Z06 mentioned above. This also determines if you start with a solid chassis or you use one that's nothing more than the roof and doors. 2. Research, research, research. I'm not trying to be funny but you need to have the entire build plan figured out before you start. Then create a checklist and start crossing of items. This research and list will help you build a budget for the car. It may end up being a lot more expensive than you imagine (nothing wrong there) and you may never want an SO to see this spreadsheet. But if you've done your research and stick to your plan you won't but parts two or three times to get the right item. It will also keep you from having to figure certain things out along the way, which really adds up time wise. And lastly it will keep you from having scope creep. The latter can be a real killer of projects. 3. Determine/buy the drivetrain parts last. This is engine, transmission, wheels & tires, etc. If your project takes more than a year to build it's often possible better items will come along or prices in scrap yards will get better. The only time I'd say you can break this rule is if you have determined their is a specific drivetrain you're going to use and it's not going to get any cheaper and in fact may be harder to get later on down the road (L28ET for instance). 4. For the things you can't do find a good professional that can help you. While it's often tempting to use a buddies buddy or someone doing this from their home I've seen a lot of projects get stalled this way. This is generally around body and pain but could also be around having a roll cage built. For any vendors you plan to use take a look around to make sure they have a good track record. I wish you luck and good fortune on building your car. In the end there's nothing better than something you built yourself, well at least to me. Cary
  27. 1 point
    Yeah HLS30... That's not JDM usually. He might have bought it in Japan, but for the US market, who knows. There's few records. We'd need the full vin to be able to realy search anything. HLS30-004xxx would be an earlier car, but could be a 260z too. If you get us a picture of the Vinplate it'll tell even more since we'd be able to see what the engine is supposed to be etc. That being said, if it's sitting in boxes, then it's a project with no real worth other than parts (I need a decent dash ) until you put it together. Download the FSM off xenons30 and go from there. only you can tell us what you have. We can give you estimates based on what you tell us but until then it's just conjecture. We will be able to tell you what goes where and a general process for putting it together. Obviously we're not going to be able to do it for you, nor would we want to. But don't be thinking you're sitting on a gold mine, unless your car has some really rare parts, such as anything that says 432 on it. Hagarty can help you with insuring it even while it's a project, so you might look into that. Otherwise give us more pictures, We are a hungry lot and a picture is worth 1000 words. Phar
  28. 1 point
    I thought I would give it a full month to let the grease soak in, the red grease is Redline assembly lube, the dark grease is from wiping my finger around the ball joint of my DD. The fabric came out much better than I thought it would, there is still a light stain from the dark grease and the Redline is almost certainly just the dye in the lube. If these were cleaned off soon after it happened I'm sure you would see no traces. This was done with clean white T shirt cotton and Brakekleen, keep rubbing until the cotton comes away clean.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Also for what it's worth, you'd be amazed how "smooth" a well performing suspension can be. Stiff might feel sporty, but remember that the goal is to maintain contact over the road surface, not skip over it. Also don't forget that spring rates are acting as a force between two points. Required spring rate to reach max travel target is subject to weight of wheel package as well as chassis weight. Then there's also suspension geometey which is a huge reason some chassis run wildly different rates. A 400# spring on a 240sx might feel soft but absolutely brutal on a s30.
  31. 1 point
    It comes down to your vision of how the car will be built and used. Built two 240Z 350 SBC projects with 1989 Camaro WC T5 transmissions. First 240Z was built in 2001 for my teenage son. Car is still on the road. Second car built nine years ago. Daily driver. No problems. Also, the T5 fits well in the car with the shifter close to the stock position. Suggest that you spend a few weeks reviewing HybridZ threads on transmissions and purchase the JTR 240Z V8 installation manual. Many answers there.
  32. 1 point
    I made an opportunistic purchase today! I've fantasized of going to 15X8 Watanabes (I know, so blasé) for years. A buddy tipped me off to a fresh set for sale locally and I decided to go for it. Really looking forward to seeing how they fit the car and keeping my fingers crossed that they'll work with the rear disks that I'm about to install. So now that this has finally happened, I'll have to liquidate a few things from the hoarde...
  33. 1 point
    Better late than never, I suppose? A few points The mock-up wheels are way too big (18s) but they are what I had on hand at the time. The garage is terribly messy. I am an amateur and have no idea what I am doing.
  34. 1 point
    So I decided to take the leap of faith and order a set from Feal. They look high quality and Ill let you know more as I get them installed. I ordered 4k front/ 5K rear. Hopfully they turn out as good as everyone says they are.
  35. 1 point
    The strut setup on these cars is ok, but there's a reason they aren't competitive anymore. No camber gain in roll and the nightmare front hubs (hello, scrub radius called...) are challenges that can't be solved with this arrangement. The Apex Engineering is in my opinion the kit to get. It lets you lower the car and raise the inner arm pickup point to correct your roll center. I've drilled out my stock sub-frame, and that mod combined with the outboard roll center adjuster blocks make for a wizard handling car. You MIGHT be able to graft in a Miata front subframe, but you'll undoubtedly run into some hilarious issues with this. I say go for it, particularly if you've already exhausted the adjustments in the stock configuration! And post photos if you do.
  36. 1 point
    4130 easier to machine than mild steel? Maybe close to the same if annealed which it typically is not. Usually comes normalized which is going to be harder than mild steel, not terrible but definitely harder. If you go to a thinner section it would likely be easier than the large thickness parts. Welding is certainly doable but you need to be more careful with heat zone, ideally post treat to normalize. Choose filler carefully, fit properly, etc. I plan on using pretty much all 4130 on my car on what I add in the cage, floors, etc. It is stronger if treated correctly and can be lighter at the same strength if you go thinner wall. For example I'll use 1-1/2" .095 tubing in the cage where you would normally use .120 wall to get a similar or maybe a little better strength and a lighter part ~20%. But you have to be careful not to make it brittle or soften things up to the point of mild steel strength with the thinner section which is then weaker. And it is MUCH more expensive. Not insane but substantially more for material. 4130 is good for high performance thin walled structure type applications. Any of the energy transfer parts like hubs/axles look at 4340 or even 300M is best unless you get into some of the new "wonder alloys" and proper heat treat. 300M isn't stronger than 4340 natively, it just allows you to heat treat to a higher level without getting brittle which is how you get a much stronger part. 4130 might be a good option but cold rolled would likely be fine for most applications. The thicknesses you are showing here are plenty IMO. I'd look at bracing and structure a bit rather than throwing mass at the parts. I'll bet that it could be done thinner and still keep plenty of strength even in mild steel. That saves money and weight. 4130 would be much thinner. Generally you can get more strength three ways: mass stronger materials better design/engineering The second two are much better for performance. Design is free other than the time to do it which in the business world means money. But only costs on the initial setup, free on everything after that, maybe even cheaper if done right. Materials - cost is higher raw cost and often higher fabrication/heat treat/procedures. You just have to weigh out what it's worth to you or whoever is going to be buying it. Not trying to offend here, some of that is my opinion but based on facts and how things are done in higher performance applications. Every build on here is done differently and one of the things I really appreciate and enjoy on this forum is the tact that is generally afforded. Everyone's vision and budget is different and there is room for all of that here.
  37. 1 point
    Where to start? There is so many possibilities, I'm sure I can come up with a few for you but I'll start with this one, this is a mod I wish the factory would have done, there would have been a lot less rust in the rear of the Z's'. I just welded a 4" lip to the rain gutter on both sides, now instead of water pooling on the back deck lid it runs right off.
  38. 1 point
    Here's a much simpler method to checking whether it's a float level issue. Take a jet cover off and pull one main stack out. Use a flashlight to look down into the empty hole and see if fuel is spilling over the brim to the auxiliary venturi passageway. If it is, you have a float/needle and seat issue. This can be done with the fuel pump on (if electric) and/or the car running. It should take all of 30 seconds to do.
  39. 1 point
    Before proceeding, check that your rear shoes are not worn out and or not adjusted. Per question 7, it is possible that the reaction disk has fallen out. It is a rubber disk about the size of a quarter and 1/4 inch thick and goes between the booster and the MC push rod. They typically fall out when people change the MC , try to adjust the push rod, pull the push rod too far out of the booster such that the reaction disk is pulled out of a pocket it sits in and falls to the bottom of the booster. Symptom: pedal travels almost to the floor and then the brakes grab really hard. Recommend that you search HybridZ. There is a post by a member that details this problem. It may be in the FAQ bake section or in the brake forum. Do your research and before doing the next step. You will need to visually confirm that the disk has fallen out. 1. You do not have to remove the MC for this. 2. Remove the nuts that hold the MC to the booster. 3. Do not remove the brake lines from the MC. Just pull it away from the booster and push it aside. 4. Remove the spacer that goes between the MC and the booster. 5. With a flashlight, look inside the booster where the push rod is. You will see a star shaped "keeper" that holds the push rod seal in place. 6. Carefully remove the keeper so you don't bend it. You may have to reshape it when reinstalling it. 7. After the keeper is removed pull on the push rod until it comes out. The seal will come out with it. 8 With a flashlight look at the pocket in the booster where the push rod sits. You should see a black rubber disk. If all you see is shiny metal pocket, then the disk has fallen out. Now you have a choice: 1. Remove the booster and shake it around until the disk falls out or 2. Buy a new booster as it will have a disk installed. Note if you pull the push rod out too far while adjusting the length per the FSM then the new disk will fall out. Recommend that you glue (JB Weld) the disk to the push rod, even on new units. Just orient the booster in a vise with the push rod pointed up vertically. Dig out the disk , glue it to the push rod and then replace the push rod, seal and keeper in the booster. This will save your mental heath when adjusting the push rod length. Your Z is over 40 years old. In the interest of safety, I always completely rebuild the brake system on old cars before putting them on the road.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    I can also add that once performance driving is tasted in an environment where it is safe to go beyond the traction envelope and spin out without harm.... you'll see the street never could have delivered the goods. "Adulthood" is a different pursuit entirely. ;) [Insert Peter Pan reference.]
  42. 1 point
    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  43. 1 point
    I went to fabric shop bought some thin foam and black marine vinyl. You can take your old as a stencil and make it a bit bigger you have about half an to an ich where you can pinch it in. Mine came off my roof wasnt clean and used a weak adhesive.
  44. 1 point
    Socorob: If you lowered the car with springs or Coil overs. Did you shorten the strut tubes? If not you are probably running out of suspension travel and hitting the bump stops. Common problem. Then you have to put Box Car springs in the thing to keep it off the bump stops. Not ideal.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies the links will be a great help. jcb
  46. 1 point
    ^ Jim here was able to help me out, thanks all!
  47. 1 point
    jhm, Thank you for taking the time to reply, I will see id if they can help out.
  48. 1 point
    Here's how my 4 pt roll bar was constructed.
  49. 1 point
    At this point the only things that needed to be taken care of before the 1st drive was the bleeding of my clutch & brakes. With the help of my lovely girlfriend that was quickly knocked out. My goal was to drive my car before 2018 came. Motul 8068HL RBF 600 DOT-4 was used for my brakes & clutch. I also with switched my transmission fluid out to 50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4. Now its the day of Christmas Eve. After double checking every nut & bolt I lowered the car down from the jack stands. Then I warmed the car up & began to adjust the tune. So I could actually attempt it's 1st drive. With the tune roughly adjusted, the car was ready to take out. Would it drive?..... or will I fail to meet my goal?....... Well I places my phone on a tripod & to record it either way...... Thankfully for me the car ACTUALLY DROVE!!!! There's still a ton of tuning left to do but I finally was able to DRIVE my car for the 1st time! I'm by NO means a tuner but I'm gong to give a try. I understand the drive isn't a very exciting for most but this was a huge accomplishment for me. I've included the videos below. This was a huge update! Sorry I wasn't able to release this update done than I did. It should be well worth the wait IMO. Thanks to everybodyfor all support & following the build! Stay tuned. https://youtu.be/DcMBSUcZv90 https://youtu.be/ChwRHIjSmJs https://youtu.be/TwGjmifHZ28
  50. 1 point
    Traced all the wires from the ignition and the TIU and it looks like it's a deadend box just like the voltage regulator which I've already removed. Since all my wires are ready to go from the directions in the JTR book, I think it's safe to keep the TIU box out of the loop. Thanks for the help guys. Also, kudos to to a guy (wal280z) over on classiczcars.com who recreated the wiring diagram for a 77 280Z using autocad. I was able to print out a full size version in grayscale to have in front of me and also had the hires image in color on my screen to refer to. Made it a lot easier to follow. And full size means I had to tape together 12 pages of printout (49" across). Well worth the extra time to do that.
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