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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in Posts

  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there
    3 points
  2. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back.
    2 points
  3. Car is still around. Still drysumped LS2, jenvey throttles with quaife 6 speed sequential and independent 9 inch. 18 x 11 wheels and 300 mm slicks all round, big AP brakes. Cool car, but the process over 9 years has been expensive. 3 x R200s, 3 t56 gearbox’s, 3 sets of coil overs, 2 sets of brakes (plus numerous rotors and pads -last set of maintenance rotors and pads was $3400. I motor blown due to oil pressure, one due to a lifter, one cooked, but still ran. Driveline is not bullet proof, but works hard so requires a little maintenance. Video is what I class as a diagnostic
    2 points
  4. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the
    2 points
  5. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  6. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  7. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  8. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  9. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  10. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  11. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  12. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  13. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  14. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  15. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  16. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  17. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  18. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  19. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  20. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  21. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  22. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  23. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  24. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  25. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  26. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  27. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  28. I wouldn't assume that the housing type guarantees the internals are the same. I like to browse Rockauto or Nissan sites and look at part compatibility. Click the part number in Rockauto and compatibility will show up. The Nissan site is a little more tedious. I chose 2008 for an example, a couple of parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2008,armada,5.6l+v8,1438226,drivetrain https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2008_Armada-SE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Differential-Pinion-Bearing-Rear/89867147/38120-7S000.html
    1 point
  29. Update again. Even with Rubber mount, still could hear the shifter rattle at 2000 RPM of engine speed about 1100 drive shaft speed. We had the drive shaft re tubed by the group that did the shaft originally. Better but not right, blurred rear view mirror at 65 mph. Took CVs off so all we had was shaft trans and differential. Still vibrated, this is when we did the rubber mount above. Took shaft out again and had it balanced, better but still not good. Took trans out and had the rear housing replaced (stripped drain plug) and some other stuff done. Mainly had the main shaft
    1 point
  30. [Holly Shiiittte. I have dreamed of this many times and realize your difficulties. On gear ratio, I am facing a similar problem. I have a Jerico 4 speed in the car I am building which is always 1:1 in 4th for those in the know. I am looking at multiple tire diameters but limited to 16 or smaller on rim. Smaller the better for weight. But Daytona is one of the tracks I must build for, and that is max speed whatever your car will do. So unless I can move to a 3.3 or lower gear or I will need to increase tire diameter. So I am thinking about a 26-27 tall 15" tire (think Nascar) or swapping a Ford
    1 point
  31. That is where it should go. Everyone usually mounts the cell at deck height which never made sense to me. Then you have to separate it from passenger with a big ass box or bulkhead design. Drop it down a little and you not only lower center of gravity, but your metal cover solution becomes so simple. I like to cover the hole with an aluminum or steel plate and then put a small 10x10 or so electrical box right over the filler cap.
    1 point
  32. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  33. Hello, im adding back to this thread as i was tagged by a few people in it so i have copied my responce from another thread. Hello everyone Intro Its Ohm from Apex. A few guys linked me to this forum to chime in. First off, ill like to publicly appologize to ervyone who has encoutered frustation with axles and components from us. Those who have ordered the first few kits when we first released were impacted with long wait times, and missing hardware. When i first launched the product mid last year I didn't realize the demand it would cause (also from the He
    1 point
  34. Still making progress... just slow. The Sequential Transmission is in place. waiting on a driveshaft. look how much space it frees up! I wish I had done this back when we made the tunnel. It could have been so much slimmer. I also did a scan of the back panel. I'm going to make a mesh screen that's custom designed around the lights so the back can vent. It's a particular oddity of the way I built the car. Since behind the driver's seat is a plexiglass panel, the back is open to the ground. The opening in the back panel will allow air to flow up from under the car and over the diff and ideally
    1 point
  35. Fuel reserve warning light stopped working a while back so (after confirming continuity of the yellow/blue wire from the sender to the light) I changed the sender and the issue has been resolved. I used a replacement unit from @zcardepot.com which is of excellent quality, has the exact same factory connections and cost $78 (compared to the unit offered by MSA at $200 plus you need to splice in a different connector!!!). I made a wrench out of 2" PVC pipe to turn the lock ring very easily, which makes the whole job a breeze. With a Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of one end of a
    1 point
  36. I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
    1 point
  37. Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
    1 point
  38. Spend minimal effort thinking of any of this for now, and focus on finding a clean shell with minimal rust first. Take it from someone who's had to go through it a bit and had to do a lot of work twice... just pay more up front for a cleaner starting example. Fortunately you have more of those in California. Once you have a clean car I would focus on brakes and suspension before swaps. Once that's done you'll quickly get an idea of how much things are really going to cost you down the road. Smog laws will affect your options in CA unless you plan on buying a Californi
    1 point
  39. I'd be a bad person to answer these questions but I think an auto '82 for $2200 is steep. I spent $1k on my donor '82 5 speed and after reading some I think I paid too much. BUT I will say the '82 head is preferred over the '83 hydraulic so I've read. Mine wasn't running and I had it totally rebuilt. I've got $9K in the rebuild but it wasn't to OEM. I had forged pistons and rods added along with just about anything else you could think of. Overkill? I'm sure. I have the I/C fitted, I still need to work out the electric cooling fans and then comes the fuel management.
    1 point
  40. Thanks! A 240 tank would work fine too because I'm 85% sure I'm going to put a surge tank in anyway so having the baffles or larger flow may not be as necessary. It has been a challenge but we must soldier on. I'm open to options so I'll check them out. I did not. I think people with carbed cars like them because they come baffled from the factory so it's easier to convert to EFI.
    1 point
  41. Not much to report. It’s been a rough year in far NorCal. Record fires last summer, and record snow this winter. Lost tress and fencing around the property and had to shut down the office a few days without power anywhere. Hoping and praying for an un-eventful weather pattern for spring and summer with plenty of opportunity to run the Z.
    1 point
  42. Dang I can't find the link from a couple years ago. I think I saw something on Kameari's website about reproducing new castings of the mk63 calipers. They had pics of the rough castings pre machining. I had to translate the japanese obviously. I can't find it on their site now. It was awhile ago though maybe it wasn't Kameari. Parts Assist M Speed has the new units though. I know I wasn't on their site when I saw the post about the castings from a couple years back. These were a factory Z, hako, caliper for vented rotor. I'd run these. Not sure what the "stock" rules mean in his cla
    1 point
  43. Made a call recently about certain parts. Seemed excessively priced, even compared to some higher ebay prices, but the support and conversation was definitely great. If I wasn't so budget minded I definitely wouldn't mind buying there. Think everything was recently moved. There's always an ad on craigslist for the same stuff.
    1 point
  44. Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment: -The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. -The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the fi
    1 point
  45. Fit what? Always provide the make, model, year and any modifications for your car when asking questions. Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as
    1 point
  46. Finished fabricating the mount for my Woodward steering rack. The new rack is significantly quicker than stock, with a 2.36 ratio, and also simply serves as a replacement as my stock rack was pretty tired and loose. I was unable to find most of the parts to rebuild it, so I figured this was another area where going aftermarket was a good long term strategy. The crossmember is the one from Apex Engineered, and all I did was cut off the stock rack mounts it comes with and make my own for the Woodward rack. The crossmember has some useful features, like multiple control arm pivot p
    1 point
  47. I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
    1 point
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