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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in Posts

  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there with these awards it’s just incredible, especially with all the awesome cars I was competing against. It’s great to see the judges appreciate all the hard work and effort that has gone into it. These are the awards I received. 1st Place in Ultra Modified Best Engine Gold Cup- This was totally unexpected and shocking it was given to a Z with and LS3 since most of these guys are Nissan purists. Again, thank you all for your support and keeping this site alive.
    3 points
  2. There was some conversation in other topic about blade type rollbar. So, i have one like this. 32x3mm cro-mo tube and 260mm blades. Blades are 35 to 25mm wide and 6mm thick, steel of course. Bar itself is more just a link between blades. This type rollbar works mainly with blades, i.e tube is stiff and blades are flexing (if they do) It depends how they are adjusted. If blade is vertical, it´s very stiff, horizontally they are pretty flexible. Any position between those, are something between, ofc. To adjust, just loose bolt (most left head of blade) and tur to desired position. Or attach cable and make remote control.
    2 points
  3. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back. Here is a link to the original thread: I think it is a blessing in disguise that I haven’t finished it sooner, racing from 10 years means you learn allot on what is smart and what is not. And over the years allot of 'spares' have found their way to the chassis, like a Tilton pedal box, fuel cell etc etc And times change so supplies do to, there a solution for the rear control arms by these guys https://www.apexengineered.com/ So ill put in my order for a front and rear subframe for the car. Here are some pictures of the body as it sits now: First it has been blasted Then powder coated Saturday ill start with mounting some small stuff like the pedal box. For an engine it will run an L28 with forged internals, kameari chain drive, isky cam, worked head, race oil pan and probably ITBS over the set of Dellortos i still have. I might go dry sump but that has pros and cons, the con is it ads weight.
    2 points
  4. Car is still around. Still drysumped LS2, jenvey throttles with quaife 6 speed sequential and independent 9 inch. 18 x 11 wheels and 300 mm slicks all round, big AP brakes. Cool car, but the process over 9 years has been expensive. 3 x R200s, 3 t56 gearbox’s, 3 sets of coil overs, 2 sets of brakes (plus numerous rotors and pads -last set of maintenance rotors and pads was $3400. I motor blown due to oil pressure, one due to a lifter, one cooked, but still ran. Driveline is not bullet proof, but works hard so requires a little maintenance. Video is what I class as a diagnostic video. It also happens to show a Z doing a 2.18 lap around Bathurst. My quaife had dropped one tooth on 3rd gear.
    2 points
  5. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the final part. The only mistake I made was not smoothing out the original door. I thought it looked fairly straight but it turned out to have some waves in it. It also had some small flaws I thought would be easy to correct in the mold. I was dead wrong. It would have been much easier to correct the flaws on the original door than to work on the mold. You can see the final surface on the mold. Then I prepped the mold, laid in some layers and a new door popped out. It's hard to tell in the pictures but the surface finish turned out great. I added some cardboard rolls in the back to make it stiff. It is attached to the car with push button locks and pins on the bottom. For the final touch I 3d printed a door handle.
    2 points
  6. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  7. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components does a fabulous job detailing their R&D and decision making: https://blog.gktech.com/blog/gktech-rear-suspension-uprights/ I think if companies for the Z were making parts like this, it would make sense to detail choices.
    2 points
  8. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.
    2 points
  9. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
    2 points
  10. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  11. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
    2 points
  12. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  13. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
    2 points
  14. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  15. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
    2 points
  16. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights switch has its own set of wiring so it may be acting as a red herring if you are using that as the reasoning in your train of thought. I suggest taking a breath, people are here to help of their own accord, it may be frustrating to seemingly answer the same question or when someone is caught on a seemingly unrelated point, but realize we need clarity to try and help. It may serve to help their train of thought, and it may seem tedious, but given the free help, maybe try being accommodating? It may serve better to have a post where you clarify exactly what you are looking for that you or others can refer to someone asking a question in the post. I can't answer as I've only looked at the early Z wiring in detail, but it seems odd for the blinker wiring to go through the floor so I can identify with others as to the confusion. I'm finding a note that the part number was used for a fuel pump relay, might be something else to check. I do know the pins are a standard spade connector so you could wire in a modern relay if you can pin out the contacts and make little adapter lengths, I've done that for some older plugs before. Identify power, ground, switch ground, switch power, and output. Then you can use any modern automotive relay.
    2 points
  17. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoir shocks so I quit thinking about Z brakes. I ran both the Nismo rear shoe, and the relined Carbotech shoe, I think. We cryo treated rotors and drums. We ran the parking brake so we could adjust the rears during the course of a race. That and having an adjustable prop valve so you can make the rears take their share of the load is critical. If you aren't turning the friction surface of the drums blue, then you ain't there yet. Scour the junk yards and find every Z drum you can find and have them turned and expect to rotate in a new set every weekend. Up front, don't fall into the trap of using a pad that maximizes the pad material, in other words instead of this | | , you want this \ /. The outer radius of the rotor runs hotter because its going faster (linearly) and wears the pad faster. Nothing worse than having to pump the brakes every corner to take up the slop from tapered front pads, maladjusted rear shoes, and expanded rear drums. We drilled holes in the backing plate on the rears for some cooling, but not much else you can do back there. Up front we ran three 3" ducts on each side, one to the hub area of the strut to cool the bearings, one to a custom "can" that blew air on either side of the rotor, and one that blew into the caliper overtop of the pads. That one was tricky to make as there isn't a lot of clearance between the caliper and a 14" wheel that we had to run. I also drilled a series of small holes around the periphery of the pistons just behind where they contact the back of the pads so air could circulate behind the pads from the aforementioned duct over the pads. PM me and I'll send you some pictures.
    2 points
  18. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  19. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
    2 points
  20. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  21. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
    2 points
  22. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  23. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.
    2 points
  24. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  25. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
    2 points
  26. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  27. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
    2 points
  28. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  29. Hello everyone on the Forum. New member in the LA area. Just a acquired a ran when parked 1973 Lime, 240 Z. Its was in decent shape for the price. Hope to get it running soon. I have almost no info on the V8 other than what I can find on the internet. Block is from a 1976 C60 truck or bus. Heads look like 882 casting 76cc smog heads. Edlebrock performer intake and Holley 4bbl carb. 4L80 transmission, BM Quick Silver shifter. has no other upgrades that i can tell so far. Hope to learn a lot from the forum. Thanks Dondo-Z
    1 point
  30. @jhm 100% agree. It’s painful to say, but I would pass on this car. The race car I’m restoring has significantly less rust than what you are dealing with, and I am Still 1-year into chassis rust replacement. We are talking 6-10 hours a week, every week, for a year. Still have not found a “rust free” S30, but you can get close! Look in Southern California, Nevada, arizona for cars that remained here. L28ET’s are becoming rare. Pick a torque/power target and we can help you build a turbo engine around an NA long block. other than the P90 head and pistons with raised deck (rings are lower), not a big advantage to the L28et long block compared to say, a 280z long block with an N42 head. It’s all expensive to be honest. You can hobble together an OEM EFI system to work (Z31 turbo MAF & ECU) but I have no experience How well the AF tracks. I only have experience with independent EFI’s . when I built my original L24et, I tried to use the L28et harness and ECU. Fail… I bought an SDS EFI and it has been running for 20 years.
    1 point
  31. What kind of flares are those on the rear? I looked through the 9 pages and didn't see a brand or name.
    1 point
  32. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  33. At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
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  34. I'm not sure who owns the artwork, but that would be cool to do. Just a warning having witnessed quite a bit, group buys and such can get out of hand real fast especially with money and such involved. I know there are on demand printing outlets nowadays. A bit more pricey and more overhead, but benefit of being able to get the items out quickly and one at a time.
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  35. Depends on the suspension. If it has basically stock suspension you can install them lower, but when you start moving to shorter coilovers or sectioned strut housings, you start running out of room for the wheel to move up into the wheel well real fast. Camber plates make it a lot worse, especially on a 280 because the strut isolators are 3" tall vs 2" for 240Z. I cut my fenders and then put the suspension together with no spring and compressed and realized that my tire was hitting metal. Had to cut again much higher to prevent that from happening . In my case I cut the fenderwells so that they were flat from the top of the arch in the well to the outside of the quarter. Basically couldn't have cut any higher and made more room for the tire unless I had removed the whole wheel tub and rebuilt it. When the strut hits the bumpstop, there is about 1/2" space from the top of the tire to the fenderwell. I think the bumpstop is more than 1/2" long but I have super stiff springs so hopefully I won't have any issues. It's a pet peeve of mine to see ZG flares mounted way too low in the rear with really wide tires. Just obvious that nobody took the time to see if there was clearance for the tire, they just held the flare up to the body and marked and cut it there with no thought as to functionality. The other one that really bugs me is the tire and wheel being 1" from the inside curve of the flare, hellaflush style. You know that tire will hit the inside of the flare almost instantly, but still people do it all the time...
    1 point
  36. battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
    1 point
  37. I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone. So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares. Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender. Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the template. The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be. Side view of template Put template on the Right fender then Transfer the trim lines using a Black Marker pen. A Tin Snips was used to trim the fender. It was used as cutting thin metal like the front fender, vibrates a lot and making it hard to control. Note- make sure to grind all trimmed edges to prevent future sheet metal cracks. Next thing to do was to clean all of the Front Suspension parts in preparation for painting or powder coating. The rear stub axles were prepped at the same time to conserve paint materials. All the parts were first cleaned with cup wire brush on a 4 1/2 electric grinder to remove the heavy grease, dirt and paint. Then a Heavy Grease Removal soap ( was used straight without dilution) was used. First, with the parts cleaning brush then with a air solvent gun shooting the degreaser( now diluted) to get those hard to get to areas. Blasting away Stub axles after paining with Black Polyurethane paint. Note- the rubber joint boots were masked off otherwise the axles would have been disassembled to remover them. The other suspension parts after Polyurethane Painting. Before Powder Coating After Powder coating A flange bolt powder coated Front crossmember mounted Note- new Camber adjusting bolts were installed. Front to rear view of Front Suspension. Note -The Powder coated parts gives a nice contrast with Gloss Black suspension parts. Side view of the Right Side Suspension It took a lot of cleaning, grinding, painting and powder coating but I think it was worth it. Next, installing the Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool on the Front Suspension to check it out, is next.
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  38. Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
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  39. Pic of the summers brothers racing shafts on mustang v8 cv cores. The left and right factory shafts are shown next to the completed assembly.
    1 point
  40. TacticBurger, Do not post in an ad unless you are genuinely interested in buying. No negative comments will be tolerated. If you don't like something, walk away. And fix your location.
    1 point
  41. I'm replacing most everything on my Z, and even trying to go as cheap as possible on everything, and using lots of junk yard parts and doing 100% of the labor myself, I still can't find a way to spend less then 15k. A much better way to do a "full" upgrade, would be to upgrade everything else that isn't engine related first (brakes, suspension, chassis strengthening, seats, paint, bodykit?, etc) before you touch the engine. As soon as the engine comes out, you'll want to upgrade everything "while you're there". At this point, just add 3-5 years onto whatever time budget you gave yourself unless you're one of those crazy singular focus ultra driven workhorses that apparently has no other hobbies. Man I'm jealous of those people. There's an Australian guy on youtube right who documented pretty much every aspect of his Z restoration. You might want to give his damn near 90 videos a watch and see if that's what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk_vb_SJctymCkwnF6sAwDg
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  42. There's been a lot of good replies to your question of how to build your car. I wanted to share some hindsight from a number of projects I've been involved with over the years. In the end you'll decide if any of this is useful or not. 1. One of the toughest decisions you'll be faced with is do you want a street car that can tracked or a track car that's street legal. Those may sound like the same thing but they are from from it. The first involves adding performance using the Z chassis for the most part similar to the Green Hornet mentioned above. The latter is much more like building a chassis and dropping the Z body onto it. This gets you more to a car like the Fairlady Z06 mentioned above. This also determines if you start with a solid chassis or you use one that's nothing more than the roof and doors. 2. Research, research, research. I'm not trying to be funny but you need to have the entire build plan figured out before you start. Then create a checklist and start crossing of items. This research and list will help you build a budget for the car. It may end up being a lot more expensive than you imagine (nothing wrong there) and you may never want an SO to see this spreadsheet. But if you've done your research and stick to your plan you won't but parts two or three times to get the right item. It will also keep you from having to figure certain things out along the way, which really adds up time wise. And lastly it will keep you from having scope creep. The latter can be a real killer of projects. 3. Determine/buy the drivetrain parts last. This is engine, transmission, wheels & tires, etc. If your project takes more than a year to build it's often possible better items will come along or prices in scrap yards will get better. The only time I'd say you can break this rule is if you have determined their is a specific drivetrain you're going to use and it's not going to get any cheaper and in fact may be harder to get later on down the road (L28ET for instance). 4. For the things you can't do find a good professional that can help you. While it's often tempting to use a buddies buddy or someone doing this from their home I've seen a lot of projects get stalled this way. This is generally around body and pain but could also be around having a roll cage built. For any vendors you plan to use take a look around to make sure they have a good track record. I wish you luck and good fortune on building your car. In the end there's nothing better than something you built yourself, well at least to me. Cary
    1 point
  43. Finished fabricating the mount for my Woodward steering rack. The new rack is significantly quicker than stock, with a 2.36 ratio, and also simply serves as a replacement as my stock rack was pretty tired and loose. I was unable to find most of the parts to rebuild it, so I figured this was another area where going aftermarket was a good long term strategy. The crossmember is the one from Apex Engineered, and all I did was cut off the stock rack mounts it comes with and make my own for the Woodward rack. The crossmember has some useful features, like multiple control arm pivot point locations and bracing attachments to the rear control arm mounts. It was also much easier to modify for the Woodward rack than the stock crossmember would have been. As shown, the rack is mounted in the stock location relative to the crossmember mounting surface, but it can easily be moved up or down as need be down the road, simply by removing the two bolts and changing the spacers. I am banking a lot that the electric power steering will work as I hope, because with this quicker rack and the 275 tires I plan to use in front....I doubt I would even be able to turn the wheel at parking lot speeds.
    1 point
  44. I'm more excited to see people come out and have a good time! As my project shows, these cars are always evolving, so you gotta take time and smell the race gas.
    1 point
  45. Typically, it's known for suppressing radio interference, buzzing, so it's not really necessary. I've used them to make my tach work right though. Electrical noise can cause problems. Looks like any alternator condenser would work. You can get them at the local auto parts store. Not a huge deal though. There are two #23's. One at the alternator and one at the coil. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/radio-stereo-clock/from-aug-76/23
    1 point
  46. Calm down boys, babies aren't dying here. I'll run the fancy bolt/washer. I'm so deep into this car anyway, whats an extra $20.
    1 point
  47. Yes I'm getting tired of having to answer the same questions over and over again, so here are some common answers, all in one place and easy to find. I hope that those of you with helpful info to add to this post will reply and do so. Especially those guys that have been through this a few times. This is intended to inform the reader of the options which exist in building up a Nissan L series turbo engine. Specifically to give an overall picture of the cost, potential and problems associated with using this engine as a base for a performance application. Much of this info has been used without permission from various turbo websites, books and discussion forums. This is intended as a guide only. If you follow this to the letter and have a problem, no one is responsible but yourself. Performance Goals The first thing you need to decide is exactly what your goals are. If you hope to have a 200hp L series engine, you likely don't need a turbo. If you want some serious power (200-500+) out of the Nissan L series, using a turbo is probably the most viable option. So You Want a Turbo Now you've decided that you want a turbo L series engine. You have a performance goal in mind and its time to built it! The single most important piece of advice I can give to anyone is to research your build before you do it. (reading this is a good start!) Do yourself a favor, and track down the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. Read it a few dozen times. By that point, you should know enough about turbo systems to make educated decisions, and to ask the right questions. Also, use the search function here, and scour the internet to see what others have done. At the end of this post there is a list of links to other articles and sites on turbocharging. Some are Nissan specific, some aren't. Now for Some Technical Stuff The best place to start is by getting a 1981-1983 Datsun 280zx Turbo engine. Either with the whole car, or just by itself. If you are planning a stock install, try and get a complete car! There are a whole mess of electronics that you will need from the donor car, AFM, ECU, Wiring harness, fuel pump, etc. The rest of this article is directed more towards a high performance buildup rather than a stock one. I picked up a 1982 280zx turbo engine for around $200US. This included everything physically attached to the engine. It did not include the ECU, fuel pump, airflow meter, etc. This didn't matter to me because from the beginning I was planning to use a different (programmable) system to manage my engine. Time to Get Your Head Checked Well your engines head that is. As you disassemble your engine, be sure to put everything in baggies and label it. This will save you much torture upon re-assembly. Once you get your head off, you might as well send it out to the machine shop. Try to find a shop that specializes in imports, or at the very least has done a few imports before. I sent my P90 head out and had it back in a couple of weeks. Give yourself enough time. If the machine shop quotes you 1 week, expect it in 2-3. For $250US my head got a performance valve job, a complete cleaning, new valve seals, all threads chased and a .010" surface plane. I was quite impressed with the work done to it. Now this is a bit of an optional step, I did a complete rebuilt on my engine, but many people have got great results just using unopened boneyard engines. Your call. Camshafts Remember all those things you heard about putting a hot cam in a performance engine? Forget them all. At least when you are thinking about a turbo. A turbo engine has completely different requirements than a naturally aspirated (NA) engine. For the Nissan L series engine, the stock turbo cam should really do you up to 350-400hp. In general you aren't going to get the same results by putting in a "performance" turbo cam into a turbo engine, as you are when putting a "performance" NA cam into a NA engine. Generally turbo camshafts have a lower valve overlap than NA cams, to prevent exhaust gas reversion. This is caused by the exhaust manifold pressure between the valve and the turbo being higher than the boost (intake manifold) pressure. "Hot" NA cams have quite a large valve overlap, and if these cams are used in a turbo setup you'll end up hurting performance when compared to the stock cam. For over 400hp applications call a cam company and work with them to get the perfect grind of cam for your engine. (custom grind) Porting and Polishing For the less than 400hp crowd you don't really need to port and polish, though a general "cleanup" doesn't hurt. In the past it has been summed up to me like this. "Take the cash you'd spend on porting and polishing and spend it on a better intercooler, better turbo, better engine management, etc" You'll end up with more for your buck this way. The P90 head already flows well. If your goals are over 400hp... I think you should talk to a company that specializes in Nissan L series headwork. (Sunbelt, top end, rebello, etc). You and Your Bottom End So now we head back to your original goals. The general consensus is that Nissan overbuilt these turbo engines. They ran a very cautious 7psi of boost stock. No doubt this was to ensure reliability and long life. I expect that the stock Nissan shortblock (the block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings, etc) can be pushed to a reliable maximum of about 350hp. Anything over that and you are likely throwing reliability into the wind. For a really stout and reliable 300hp+, you should consider going with forged pistons. Pre-detonation can kill a turbo engine by melting pistons and breaking ring lands in under a second. Forged pistons will give you a bit more of a buffer. So be careful setting up your engine, and take it easy until you know your not too lean! If you are planning on an engine with more than 400hp, you will need to do some connecting rod prep as well. One more area of concern, the headgasket. Headgaskets rarely will blow without detonation occurring. If you are going nuts (over 400hp is nuts!) then you should look into block o-ringing or a metal headgasket of some sort. Turbos The stock Airesearch T3 turbo that comes with the 280zxt is decent for probably around the 275hp mark. For more serious power, almost every L28 turbo engine I've heard about uses a T3/T04 hybrid turbo. This uses the stock exhaust side of the turbo and a larger intake impeller. As a result, you can still use the stock exhaust manifold. There are lots of turbo shops in the world, and most can help you decide what is right for you. (plus there are many posts here outlining the same thing) Manifold Choices Honestly, unless you are planning a 450+hp engine, (in which you should be talking a lot to a high performance engine builder) I would stay with the stock exhaust manifold. Headers for turbo cars can run into the $2000 range to have one built. They look really nice though. As far as the intake goes, any L28 series intake will work. (you can use the one that came with the engine) However the earlier intakes (75-78) have a lot less junk attached to them, and a lot less holes. It's worth while to use one of these just to clean things up a bit. But don't panic if you can't get one, I ended up cutting and welding my stock turbo manifold to clean it up. A popular upgrade is to replace the stock throttle body with a 60mm unit. It may not sound like a large improvement, but the 60mm will flow almost 44% more air than the stock 50mm unit. These throttle bodies can be found on many recent cars, such as the Nissan 240sx, which is almost a bolt on mod. You may have to adapt your linkage slightly. Do yourself a favor and once you get the TB, hold it up to the intake and use a Dremel or die grinder to smooth the transition between the 2 pieces. Without doing this, there is no point in upgrading the throttle body! (but make sure you aren't sending aluminum shavings into your engine... remove the intake if possible!) Exhaust Take a look at the stock downpipe coming off the turbo. You'll notice an O2 sensor... and a 90 degree bend, followed by another 90 degree bend. This has to be one of the poorest designed pieces on this engine. I really suggest that you get a custom made downpipe unless you are happy with the stock performance. A good design would be made of 2.5" mandrel bent 304 stainless steel, with 2, 45 degree bends. Alternatively you can have it made out of mild steel and then ceramic coat it. Make sure you know how much room you have before doing this... you don't want to spend the money on a custom piece that won't fit. A 3" downpipe is possible, but makes getting at the bolts to attach it very difficult. As well, the stock T3 outlet is only 2-1/8" diameter. For the exhaust system itself, 3" mandrel bent is the only way to go. (no press bends) The less exhaust restriction you have, the faster your turbo will spool up, and the less lag you will have. Again, forget about traditional concerns such as backpressure, and loss of torque with a bigger pipe, those rules don't apply to turbos. Zero restriction is perfect, but loud. A 3" system will give you excellent flow when used with a high flow muffler. Don't use a resonator in this system! The turbo itself will eliminate the exhaust drone that NA 6 cylinders get from 2000-2500 rpm. Turbos will also quiet the exhaust at about 1/3rd the rate a muffler would. Engine Management Big decision. If you are planning on running more than about 275hp, I really wouldn't get stuck on the stock system. This is one area to dish out the cash that you saved by not porting and polishing. For under $1000US you can get a fully programmable system to run your ignition and fuel delivery. If you think you are going to want more power the future, this is the only way to go! It offers nearly infinite flexibility. If you want a stock system, you are on your own to sort through all the wiring diagrams and figuring out which red wire with the gray stripe you need. Sorry. Intercooling This is the other area to dump cash into! A cheap intercooler will take you no where, and do it well. Expect to spend more than $300 for a quality unit. This is the heart and soul of a turbo engine, so do your research well. Spearco offers incredible units, but at a pretty high price. A common performance intercooler is the Isuzu NPR intercooler. They are fairly difficult to find, but if you luck out you can get one used for under $300. Generally when it comes to intercooling a high performance engine you want the biggest intercooler you can find. I wince a little when I say that. A good design is more important than the size of the unit. Read up on what makes a good intercooler and make an educated choice. Fuel Delivery First thing, you'll likely want a new fuel line if you plan on pushing 300hp. I expect a 3/8" feed line would provide enough flow for a 350hp car. 5/16" is a good size for a return line. You are also going to need a high pressure fuel pump. New ones are nice, but if you want to go used try to get one out of a high performance car with a larger displacement than 2.8liters. Something like a BMW 535, 635, 735 could do. A 300zxtt, Supra tt, etc. would likely also do. Depends how wild you want to go. While you are wiring in your new fuel pump (make sure you use a relay for it) now is a good time for a little theft protection. Run a hidden toggle switch on the line that triggers your fuel pump relay. As long as you remember to turn it off every time you get out of the car, it's a pretty decent way to keep your car where you left it. Injectors Those stock injectors aren't gonna cut it over 250hp. You can cheat a little by running higher than stock fuel pressure through them, but this is just a band-aid fix. A common OEM injector that can support around 300hp is the Ford Merkur/SVO injectors. They are considerably cheaper than high performance injectors, and will fit in the Z with some modifications. Beware, you're going to need a custom fuel rail if you go this route. (Which again will clean up the look of your engine) Blow Off Valve This modification is highly recommended on any turbo Z car. When the throttle plate closes the air is still being pushed out of the turbo, it hits the throttle plate and reverses towards the turbo impeller. This collision causes the turbo to slow down spinning. Which means that every time you shift gears the turbo will slow down its spin. Not good! Adding a simple blowoff valve between the turbo and the throttle body will drastically improve this problem. You can spend $200 and get one from Greedy, (Greddy) or you can go to the wreckers and try to locate on off a Talon/Eclipse/Laser Turbo from '90-94. $20 or so and it should be yours. Wastegate and Boost Control The stock wastegate on the T3 turbo is pretty decent. In the pages listed below you can see 2 different methods of controlling your boost levels. One way is by metering the vacuum signal to the wastegate, and the other way is by threading the wastegate rod and changing the length of it. An external wastegate is a superior design to this integrated design. If you are planning high boost (over 15psi) you will probably want to design a external setup. Maximum Boost has a great section on wastegate design. Oil This is an often debated topic. I strongly suggest that anyone building up a turbo engine plan to run fully synthetic oil for the life of the engine. Synthetic oil is simply going to stand up better to the high heat that oil sees in turbocharged engines. If you absolutely will not run synthetic for some reason, try to use a straight weight motor oil. These oils are more stable than the multiweight (such as 10W-30, 20W-50) oils. This stability helps prevent oil 'coking' which is a common cause of turbo failure. However, you don't want to use synthetic motor oils for the break in period. They simply lubricate too well to allow your engine to go through the proper break in cycle. Also, its generally recommended that you change your oil every 500miles during break in. That gets mighty expensive if running synthetic. Budget You'll notice that a lot of the advice in this article revolves around how to make a low budget, high performance turbo engine. It really shouldn't be difficult to have a 300hp engine for around $3500. Use some creativity and search autowreckers for OEM parts that may work. (such as the Isuzu NPR intercooler, eclipse BOV, Merkur/Svo injectors) Take the time to research your product before you buy and you will save yourself money. There is nothing worse than paying top dollar for a part that you don't need! Recommended Internet Reading: http://home.flash.net/~joeao/greg/zcar.html http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/ http://www.sdsefi.com (Good tech articles here) http://www.stealth316.com/1-tech.htm http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/turbo.html
    1 point
  48. Traced all the wires from the ignition and the TIU and it looks like it's a deadend box just like the voltage regulator which I've already removed. Since all my wires are ready to go from the directions in the JTR book, I think it's safe to keep the TIU box out of the loop. Thanks for the help guys. Also, kudos to to a guy (wal280z) over on classiczcars.com who recreated the wiring diagram for a 77 280Z using autocad. I was able to print out a full size version in grayscale to have in front of me and also had the hires image in color on my screen to refer to. Made it a lot easier to follow. And full size means I had to tape together 12 pages of printout (49" across). Well worth the extra time to do that.
    1 point
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