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  1. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  2. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  3. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  4. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  5. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  6. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  7. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  8. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  9. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  10. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  11. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  12. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  13. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  14. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  15. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  16. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  17. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  18. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  19. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  20. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  21. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  22. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  23. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  24. Here's a picture of my current rear arms. The inner portion pivots on rod ends and both outer ends that attach to the upright are adjustable. I am currently designing another set that has the short outer adjustable arm towards the front of the car instead of at the rear. Absolutely no issues with these though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
    1 point
  25. The spindle pins are such a pain in the ass. Something I found really helped was getting a medium-sized tub, and then filling it with about a gallon of 50/50 ATF and acetone. It's like penetrating oil on steroids. Set the side of the strut/control arm assembly with the spindle pin into the tub and let it soak for 2 or 3 days. I stopped breaking threaded rod after that.
    1 point
  26. If they're bound then they're not doing anything, but if they're not then they're softer than the rest of the spring, hence the progressive part. The Tokicos are worse, and it's been an ongoing topic since the 90s. It is as designed though. If it bothers you get a non-progressive spring. Personally not a fan of progressive springs.
    1 point
  27. The price and popularity of S30's has been going up for a while now, well before the 400z was even officially announced that they were going to make it. With more and more cars becoming numb, fat, and auto-only, there is going to be a shift back into older cars that aren't necessarily as fast, but are perceived as "more engaging". Add in that the S30 is beautiful, and is becoming more and more rare due to many of them having been fully rusted away or crashed into trees, and the price goes up. Until the price of gasoline becomes absurd (i.e. 20 dollars a gall
    1 point
  28. battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
    1 point
  29. Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating.
    1 point
  30. Why are you looking at the wiring on the combi switch? Unless you're replacing all the wiring, factory relays and all with an aftermarket setup, you only need to look at the engine bay connector wiring. I've got an early 74 260z and just wired up the honda motor, I believe the wire colors are the same. I won't be able to test it for a week or two because I'm still working on other wiring updates, but I'll report back when I do test it. I recommend adding a SPST relay to the circuit and lubricating the wiper linkage before swapping the wiper motor. I have very little experience wit
    1 point
  31. Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
    1 point
  32. The jam nuts on my car were extremely tight as well. I ended up jacking up the car by the wrench to get it to break loose.
    1 point
  33. A major driver behind this was to maintain a factory brake bias and make things match front to rear. There are plenty of big brake kits already available with Wilwoods and custom hats. That's not what I was trying to do. The Odyssey rotors in those kits are further away from the upright, so the caliper is mounted completely outboard of the stock ears rather than in-line with them. I might be able to find a different slip on rotor that works in a similar location, but then wheel clearance becomes an issue
    1 point
  34. I did this on my build. Not only did it make no sense (to me) to have to dismantle the hub bearings to change the disc, the OEM setup also severely limits your options regarding disc choice. I used floating discs, for example, which would not have been possible with the OEM setup. I did have problems with the TTT hubs however. Once everything was assembled, I noticed the disc had a visible wobble when mounted on the hub. I hooked up a dial indicator and measured something like .015" wobble at the outer edge of the disc. Obviously that was FA
    1 point
  35. this gets better and better.... you can run a 1350 u joint yoke directly without any adapters.
    1 point
  36. The amount of help on here is extraordinary. I appreciate all the advice, I'm doing as suggested and picking up some books, but mainly diving into other builds more. I'm also trying to take smaller bites, or at least take a section on at a time so I don't end up with the "Paralysis by analysis" bug. I decided to just take my time/and tear it down to frame.. get it blasted then primed in 2k, which will allow me to make any adjustments during the 2jz/(154 or CD009) . Thanks again for the advice guys..
    1 point
  37. Yep thanks wiring is ok. I found the problem, the voltage meter got damaged/jammed by sandlast media going in there during restoration process.... Will try to find another gauge..... Thanks everyone for your help!
    1 point
  38. JHM i have been looking through said diagram and it was a big help. Basically I compared the 240 vs 260 and what is actually in my car and was able to get everything working. I now have 12V at the distributor EDIT: when the key is turned on! not all the cabin stuff seems to be working but I don't care because racecar and most of it is still waiting to come out. Yeah I am running my fan, light bar, starter, fuel pump and alternator with new wire/fuses/relays. I'll post it up when i get it done. First order of business is to charge the b
    1 point
  39. Move this post to the "Engine Components/EMS/Megasquirt" Forum and look for "Chickenman" and/or "softopz". Chickenman does remote setups and tuning for a modest fee.
    1 point
  40. Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment: -The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. -The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the fi
    1 point
  41. Hey guys, I've recently re done the front end of my 71 240z she had some good rust in there. I've triple measured before welding the TC rod brackets back on and did my best to ensure everything is as square as possible in terms of cross member and such. Ive been browsing around adjustable front control arms and TC rods. What's everyone's opinion on the home brew route? I like the technotoy tuning stuff but im not building a track car and don't really care about the "bling" value of em at this time. My goal is to have small adjustability to dial out any imperfections in the fabrication phase du
    1 point
  42. Cary (tube80z) has been mentioning this idea of the dual ball joint front end off and on for the last couple years. I hadn't really given it too much thought until I autoxed my car and was really lifting the inside rear tire, and Dan (74_5.0L_Z) suggested that the problem might be scrub radius and caster related. I guess the idea is that the outside wheelbase increases significantly enough due to scrub that the car leans over in that direction and the inside rear comes off the ground. Recently this thread popped up talking about swapping front suspensions and it quickly devolved into a piss
    1 point
  43. I'm more excited to see people come out and have a good time! As my project shows, these cars are always evolving, so you gotta take time and smell the race gas.
    1 point
  44. As of about 15 minutes ago, I've ordered all of the parts I need including an r200 to install into my car! They should all arrive sometime during next week. This weekend I'm going to drop my diff out of my car and take it apart to see how much damage I've done. I'll be attempting to sell anything that is usable. After I take my diff out, I'm also going to replace the u-joints on my drive shaft, and inspect my Trans and Torque Converter for potential issues, since I'll have relatively easy access to them! I'll try to take pictures as I go.
    1 point
  45. You can use whatever gas you tune it for. But there is a reason turbo cars usually run higher octane fuel.
    1 point
  46. Hey, that's me! Message sent. Thanks for looking out everyone.
    1 point
  47. RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above,
    1 point
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