seattlejester

Goodness, great build!

I show $150-$170 for the CTS411 912 or 913 from THMotorsports. I doubt they would charge $300 for shipping, I think my last package to sweden was about $50.

Will do, I think I already made a mistake with the 18" DD rod might not be enough room for the groove on the shaft as it already has one back there. Hopefully I can flip it. So my experience with the saturn column so far... I went to the pick and pull which had 3 Vue's on the yard. When searching make sure to search the Vue Hybrid/Greenline as they don't come up as interchange with just the simple Vue. Of the 3, none had their columns. These are fairly hot ticket items if you look on ebay, they are almost all selling over $100, and they usually don't include the output shaft, which if you source will find it is about $70 per joint or over $140 just for the 2 joints. I found a local wrecking yard that had several that were listed at $65, so that may be an option. The key is some people know these are in demand, the thing is the yards are still pricing them at the cost of a steering column compared to a power steering rack so they can be had for ~$50 so there is a good margin for the junk yard divers. If you can just get the column PnP charges ~$45 if you can't pull the steering wheel off you are going to be looking at $65, if you can't get the air bag out you are going to be looking at $80. I found that they had just stocked a new Vue on the yard on memorial day, so I ran in today in the morning to pull it. To remove the column: Remove the 2x 3/32 screws on the lower left and lower right of the dash cover. That should let you pull the lower grey dash panel. To access the 2 bolts to drop the tilt column you will need to remove the black bottom steering column cover to get the right bolt of of the two. The cover is held by 3x 1/16 screws. You may want to get 1/4 socket sizes with an extension as one is fairly recessed. With the cover off you can either drop the motor or drop the column. Before that first trace the wires from the motor as they will get in the way. The main power wire can be traced to the battery. It has an inline fuse, you can pull the wire and snake it all the way through with some tugging. The ground wire is not easily visible but is grounded I believe to the support clamp, I just cut this wire. Trace the input harness, it goes up and to the left before it encounters a thick bundle. You can either spend the time to undo the harness or cut a pigtail where they meet. With the wires out of the way you can access the tilt column bolts or the single long column support bolt. They are all 1/2 inch. The single long column bolt I think is hard to access with the motor in the way so pull the tilt column first. One bolt either side of the column. I suggest getting your socket onto the bolts and then attaching a longer extension. The bolts are really tight and it was slightly difficult to manage getting a socket on. Once the tilt column is released the motor will be able to swing on the support bolt which goes across from driver to passenger. With the motor swung down you have more access to the support bolt. Get it started and REMOVE the ratchet, the bolt is 5 inches or longer and will not back out before the ratchet runs into the dash. Loosen the bolt by hand. If you can support the motor once it is loose you should be able to pull the bolt out. I didn't know what it looked like so I backed it out incredibly slowly. With that done the column should be loose except for some electrical connectors, a few on the steering column for the column switches and one big one to the ignition switch. With the column completely loose you can undo the 1/2 bolt for the steering joint. Back it all the way out and give the column a nice tug and it should release. Make sure to put the bolt back in so you don't have to source another bolt. For the steering shaft you already have one side free, you can access the other side by rotating the shaft until the bolt lines up with the wheel well. With a long extension I was able to line it up so I could access the bolt from the front driver wheel well. With that 1/2 inch bolt removed go inside and give the shaft a nice tug and it will come out, once again make sure to replace the bolt. Put both of these shafts together so they don't try and ding you for having two shafts. The steering wheel will take more looking into, but it looks like it may be held on by 2 torx or star bit heads on the back of the wheel. Will report back with how it comes off. To save yourself some money, pulling the steering wheel is not the most difficult thing and could be attempted before removing the column. If the key is in the ignition you are in luck you can attempt this pretty early on. If it is not you will have to remove the two screws holding the combination switches which is metric which will then allow you to remove the ignition switch and the lock I believe. Turn the steering wheel so you can access two of the triangular slots at a time roughly point the steering wheel at 10 o clock to get access to the left two, turn it to 2 o clock to access the right two. The air bag is held in by 4 posts with a cutout The cutouts in the post are secured by a spring wire In the back cover of the steering wheel there are 4 triangular shaped grooves These 4 grooves allow access to the spring wire. Getting a fair sized flat head screw driver at least 4 inches long and with a fairly large head about 1/4 of an inch or larger you can slide into the groove running along the edge closer to the shaft and turn the screw driver towards the longer side of the triangle, this pulls the wire out of the way of the post, supplying some pressure will allow you to slip the post past the cutout. Repeat for all 4 posts and you can remove the air bag. The air bag has two connectors, 1 yellow and 1 red. If you are in a JY the battery should be disconnected and as far as I know there is no risk in removing these if that is the case. The yellow tab has a locking tab removing that allows you to free that clip. Red one can be just pulled and that should fall off as well. A 13/16 nut holds the steering wheel on you can loosen this and attempt to do the hammer method making sure to leave the nut on and hammer the wheel at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock and hit it hard enough it should release the friction from the splines and allow you to tug it off the nut is on there so you don't hit yourself in the face. If that fails you can undo the 2 torx T20 screws between the 4 slots in the back of the wheel to loosen the rear cover, with the combination switches removed this will let you slide the assembly down and leave you with the metal base. This will give you room to get a traditional pulley puller if you don't want to use the proprietary steering wheel puller from GM.

Interesting evolution. Almost like a twin turbo setup that goes into a single twin scroll. Should be fairly potent and your welder won't be giving you the evil eye. The question obviously would be, is there room for the steering shaft? That dips quite a bit more overall. I do like how it hugs and the tilt for the turbo so that you can run the dump pipe very close. Also raises the question is the long pipe after the collector needed? What if you merged closer or had the turbo mounted not flat? Would be a bit more compact. Overall I really like the slight tilt to the wastegate, loads better than just a flat 90 off of it that a lot of people run.

Just read up on 4 point harnesses. If you care enough to make sure you will be mounting them correctly, then you should know that step 0 is to more or less stay away from 4 points, exception being schroth, not to mention the only DOT legal harnesses are also schroth as well. If it is for fun, make sure you put in a 3 point for daily use. If it is for serious then you should look at a 5 or 6 point. I've measured that area to death, surprisingly you may be one of a very few people that those measurements may apply to (2jz, early 240z with the flat trans mounts, CD009 with adapter plate). My CX mounts were modified though to put the engine as far back as it could, but I don't think in stock form with how long as the CD009 is it will accommodate that forward movement. Curious to see what you find, by my measurements I'm going to end up at the very far rear edge of the shifter and maybe my motor will be about where the L-series usually sits.

For the engine mounts: I've heard of that concern before, but never encountered it. I personally have mine bolted in and have clutch kicked an entire afternoon and not had them shift, so less of a concern as long as you use good hardware on that front. If you look straight at them you can tell the potential issue, they will install the engine tilted and off center. That gives you a lot of room for the intake, but not much room for the turbos or the exhaust. Not a big deal but if you plan on having the exhaust tuck anywhere near the trans tunnel with the CD009, that is not going to be possible. So your vision is going to be about 3 inches off the ground just for the exhaust. In addition if you mock up the CD009 chances are you are going to find that they don't quite offer enough adjustment to mount the motor as forward as it needs with that transmission at least. For the harnesses: that is a good point, mounting of the belts are real important in the angle and mount department, but more so the 4 point harnesses are inherently not safe (exception being shroth). For events like SOLO in an open lot with nothing to hit that may not be an issue and would offer good retention, but if your activity has any chance of running into another object or individual then a hard accident will actually just have you slip out from the bottom. Anti-submarine straps are used for that reason. For the TC bushings: spot on on that one, it always is a bummer when people just put them in not realizing their function.

Welcome to the forums. I'll say some things are concerning. Engine mounts, harnesses, and the TC bushings off the bat. I'll let you find your own findings with them, but would advise looking into those areas.

Well written sir. I may try and pick a set of these up if I go back to a welded differential.

Definitely interested!

I'm following in socorob's foot steps. I think it would be appropriate to add things here. If you want me to make my own thread I'm happy to do so, but I think adding onto this may be useful. So some things I've found: That joint from woodward steering isn't really sold anywhere else. You have to order it through them, and they do not have an online store so you have to call them or e-mail them to order. Joint was $86.25. about $70 for the part and apparently the remaining was shipping. Not bad for the exact piece you need. The R18Z bearing is a 1-1/8 inch ID, 2-1/8 inch OD bearing. The R18 is the designation for the bearing dimensions the Z stands for single shield, 2Z or ZZ stands for double shield. They have a variant with I think R as in R18R which has a rubber seal instead of the metal shield. If you were being super correct about it you would probably order an R18 open, weld as needed, and then fill the bearings with grease and close it off with boots on both ends. Socorob also put in a butt load of work finding that exhaust pipe and part number. Strangely enough the 2-1/8th inch OD for the bearing makes finding a tube with an ID of a similar size very difficult to find. My local supplier has it in stock, but wants $20+ per foot. You can buy a thick wall tube of smaller diameter and use the correct bit to ream it out to 2/18 at the depth of the bearing and find a cap for a perfect fit, but most likely not worth the effort. You can order the 3/4 DD shaft in 18 inch length on amazon which seems almost perfect. The bruno controller can be purchased on ebay for $45 + 10$ shipping. I would suggest picking this up potentially soon if you have any thoughts. He seems to be populating/building a website and the prices are quite a bit higher at $85 for the basic controller. He also seems to be adjusting prices as some prices changed over the weekend. The website is epowersteering.com if I'm not mistaken. He also offers 3 options for just the controller: One is the basic kit with the separate potentiometer. Two is the advance kit which has a built in potentiometer. Three is the pro kit which has no potentiometer. This one apparently reads input and adjusts the assistance. In an e-mail conversation he suggested sticking with the basic kit for spirited driving. Most likely a savings over the advanced kit and the pro kit has a delay before reacting which may throw someone who is doing a quick correction off as the effort varies in say a fast chicane. Hoping to order the last of the parts and grab some columns tomorrow. I have a stock column that I'll be making a jig off of and using thanks to zetsaz

It looks pretty, but your downpipe running is going to be a bit awkward with the waste gate in the way.

The black sensor on the passenger side is the neutral position switch. I think it would be safe just to cut the plastic and the tabs off. Reverse switch is on the driver side and is a light blue color. Drive shaft yoke apparently is a Spicer 3503-323 (only online verified, I'll have to ask at the drive shaft store) Energy Suspension GM style polyurethane mount should work, may require a bit of filing for the spacing. 3.1108R or 3.1108G is almost 2 inches tall at 1 15/16 inch. 3.1158R or 3.1158G is the same mount but lower profile and comes in at 1 5/8 inch tall. There is a 3.1142R and 3.1142G, but it does not have the diagrams. Additionally you can apparently use the Z32 (300zx) style mounts. Those are more interesting in that it is a plate with side rubber forward and aft. Or you can stick with the stock mount. Example of the shortened stock shifter. You can't do more without changing the selector shaft to receive like a ball and socket for the pivot action.

Hmm the bending in the fuse means it was using quite a few amps of the rating. Question is was it going to blow and something else went first. Continuity setting is your friend in tracing wires. If I knew more about the 280z wiring harness I would offer advice. On a friend's honda, he installed an LED backwards for one of the interior lights and shorted his entire interior light circuit. We replaced the fuse and it blew again. Found the bulb, flipped it and it stopped blowing.

Paint scraper I think is the go to. Usually made out of stainless so it is pretty hard, angle it so it acts as a ramp. Employ two, one on each side and push the upright down. Heat can make them a bit more pliable, but really you don't want them to deform. If that doesn't work you can shave a little bit off. The arms can come in a bit if you tighten it, but you have to make sure you don't take too much off or it will want to bind the sleeve to the pin.

It would be better to figure out what is going on before just throwing parts at it. Visually firing coils using an inline spark tester is super easy and will answer soooo many questions. I went with the 1ZZFE smart coils. They are awfully tall, but they throw a good spark, cheap, and available used or new.

Definitely better at least in waste gate priority and transitions. https://www.theturboforums.com/attachments/wastegateplacement-jpg.660044/ https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/337259d1327631255-does-mount-orientation-wastegate-matter-precisionmanual.jpg The question or concern is if that gets in the way of feasibility in either manufacturing or locating it is probably going to take a back seat. Your welder is definitely going to be planning your murder.

Hello, Welcome to the forum. You posted in the FAQ section which does not allow posting. Please take a moment to make sure you are posting in the technical section that allows posting. That looks a bit high. Did he make sure not to torque the components until they had load on them? Or at least set to operating range? New springs and such will settle, but bushings holding the car up seems to be a potential binding issue. Hard to tell without a previous photo or a shot of some of the work.

Less 90* off the collector would be nice. Ideally putting the waste gates where the turbo flange is and curving the turbo flange further down stream, although I'm sure packaging comes into play and with adequate boost control probably a fairly moot point. ^a really nice example, although pretty much infinite room to play with compared to ours. The AR size seems quite large, I feel like a drop in 0.1 wouldn't be an issue with a twin scroll setup would probably even help spool. I don't have my sizing chart to compare, but what are we looking for power band wise and flow wise? To me that seems like a bit of a peaky setup with a power band in the upper RPM's if memory serves. I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean how the twin scroll is working when you waste through the turbine housing? I mean the stock wastegate on the EFR turbos waste through the turbine housing, more in line then on the outer portion of course though. I imagine you get most of the benefits of the exhaust being separated all the way to the turbine housing so you benefit from not having interfering pulses and gain the benefits of the exhaust speed. Once you have to bleed the waste gas you are essentially past your desired turbine speed, so loosing the benefits of the twin scroll by having a single wastegate port that more or less merges them in the waste stream is almost more beneficial in that you loose that divorced benefit as well as removing the volume.

Moved as requested. I'd love to see a manifold with high wastegate priority. Seems like it always takes a back seat. An interesting trend is to make the twin scroll and add the wastegate to the turbine housing. Maximum priority, and at that point wasting the gas via merge shouldn't affect the pulse of the twin scroll in theory. The twin wastegates is pretty interesting keeping it completely divorced. A bit harder for me to swallow though, even cheap name brand wastegates are going to be expensive. Two cheap ones would be more than one ver nice large one. I feel like your welder might shoot you. Trying to get a tig torch down between the flange or where some of those joints are is going to require quite a long stick out.

The kit looks like it sits pretty low on the body, curious how it will look all together. Keep up the good work!

^Huh that seems to have a bit of an interesting tilt to it. Like leaned over to the passenger side and the center line tilts from towards the driver side front to back. Is it because the transmission is not in or the picture is off center?

^Saved, but never submitted apparently. This is getting so technical and specific to me I don't think it will help anyone down the road. Granted I think I'll model this in case someone wants to play with that at a later date. So I crawled under the car today. Definitive eyeball answer says, ~17.5 inches from firewall to stock chassis trans mount. This is almost perfectly confirmed by Zetsaz who measured 32 inches from the pocket behind the shifter to the firewall. I measured 13 inches from the pocket to point X + the 1.5 inch offset of point X to trans mount + the 17.5 inch I measured from the firewall to the trans mount adds up exactly to 32 inches. The R154 with the 2jz bell housing is actually 24 inches from the bell to mount, which makes sense since the 2jz incorporates a built in shield instead of separate pieces like the 7m. The offset of my mount is actually a surprising ~5 inches. Shifter sits about 4 inches forward of roughly centerish in the shifter hole. That all ads up to my bell housing face being ~2 inches in front of the fire wall. The CD009 is 27 inches from bell to mount so 3 inches longer. At most with the stock mounts it can sit back wards about ~ 3 inches behind before fouling. So with it inline with the stock mounts the trans would be ~9.5 inches past the firewall, + the .625 inch adapter plate pushing my engine forward almost 8 inches (from the original 2 inches it already sticks out). Although Exposed's engine doesn't sit 9 inches from where mine is, which is blowing my mind. With it sunk back 3 inches it would be ~6.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward ~5 inches forward from where my engine is. Oddly enough, I actually have another set of transmission tunnel mounts from when I made a straight cross member for the R154. That means, using those mounts and cutting out the stock mounts to make room, I can start with my 0 point being 5 inches back. That means using my rearward mounts, bell housing would be 4.5 inches past the fire wall, pushing my engine forward about 3 inches with the adapter plate. With it pushed back the 3 inches on top of using the rear mounts that puts the bell housing about 1.5 inches past the firewall, pushing my engine forward 0 inches with the adapter plate. That seems like it would be ridiculously easy. The shifter being 34 inches back...2 inch stick out + 17.5 inch to chassis mount + 1.5 to point X + 8.5 or 9.5 for ideal shifter placement 4 inches back. This is basically going to sit in the pocket. Or right in front of it. I can move the drive train forward a little bit so I don't get an awkward shifter, plus I think I need the room anyways to make sure I can access the bell housing and adapter bolts. So I've made my peace. Stock trans tunnel mounts are going to have to be removed. I can either recycle my rear mounts or cut it out and start fresh, but that is an option back there. Shifter will be shortened 4 inches and hopefully pop up near the shift hole. Transmission will be sunk in ~ 7 inches from where the stock trans tunnel mounts were. Engine mounts will be pushed forward 1-2 inches. Exhaust will have to be redone, radiator hoses will need to be shortened. I think that is it though.

Hmm I thought the cigarette lighter was on the dash. Although mine is filled in, but the point X would be the front edge of the bracket that holds the cigarette lighter in your picture. Also thanks for the measurements. The number we have to play with is 31.5-32 inches from the pocket to the firewall. The pocket sits 1.5 inches behind the rear edge of the shifter hole. I have to go back and measure, but I'm pretty sure that is 12 inches back from point X and point X sits about 1.5 inches from the trans mounts. That means tentatively the length from the firewall to the trans mounts in the early 71, 72 Z cars is 17 inches which is more in line with what the digital tape measure says it should be.

Interesting, kind of see an homage to the 280zx, 350z and such in there. Some reality checks. Center exhaust exit is usually not really viable since your gas tank sits there. Curving around the tire is good, but when it goes all the way to the door sill like that in the rear, jacking up the car without anti-droop coilovers means the tire will rip off the side skirt. The rear departure angle is a bit too shallow, if you live on a parking lot that might work, but without air ride or even with it going up a moderate incline is going to grind down the diffuser. Center hood bump may be aesthetically pleasing, but most engines kind of use that space. Hence the bulge, having a dip is going to be a bit restricting.

I keep referencing this thread, and I'm still not 100% sure. So to summarize. Items ordered Description: 1995 Nissan Pathfinder - CV Joint FEBEST # 0211-WD21 OEM # 39741-05U85Description: Febest - Nissan Inner Joint Left 27X98 - Oem: 39711-64E10 (G35) CV Axle Assembly Rear-Left/Right Heri 93885 fits 81-83 Nissan 280ZX New OE Quality CV Axle Shaft Fits Nissan Infiniti Driver/Passenger Front 80-4706 Driver side. 280Z 27 spline stub axle 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm center bore pattern companion flange adapter Heri brand 280ZX Turbo complete axle, with lock ring grove ground down to accommodate infiniti J30 lock ring Passenger side. 280Z 27 spline stub axle 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm center bore pattern companion flange adapter 280ZX Turbo 3x2 in 96mm Tripod housing WD21 tripod bearing? WD21 front passenger axle Bearing from Description: Febest - Nissan Inner Joint Left 27X98 - Oem: 39711-64E10 (G35) ? Tripod housing from ______ J30 passenger VLSD input Just for my checklist, that should leave me with a 280zx turbo axle with input, but not tripod maybe tripod bearing? WD21 input 2x pathfinder tripod housings G35 or pathfinder bearing?