jhm

This post appears to be spam or trolling; and if not, should be listed in the Vendors section IINM?

Yes, one bolt on each side to mount the engine when using the stock front crossmember. This should be the case for any engine swap that uses the stock crossmember. (There are aftermarket crossmember that may have a different bolt configuration.)

https://technotoytuning.com/

FYI for ALCON -- T3, Futofab, DatsunRestoMods, Ground Control and Apex Engineered are all having Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales and specials. Please fee free to add any others that you're aware of. Thanks, and happy shopping!

Only you, the owner/driver, can answer the question of Eibach (or any similar lowering spring) vs stock. Do you want stock ride height and softer ride, of do you want lowering and firmer suspension? Tokico is another good lowering spring, but they're pretty hard to find at this point. Vogtland seems to get good reviews, but I have no personal experience with them. Here's a link to one vendor for the high-quality bump stops referred to above. Pricey, but worth it if you're serious about good handling: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm

Yes, those definitely appear to be OEM-style rubber bushings. Where did you source them from?

Depending on what flange your specific R200 has, it often needs to be swapped to match your driveshaft (or the flange on the driveshaft needs to be swapped to match the diff). See the attached photo for reference data. Also, if you haven't already done so, I would read all the relevant threads on this topic in the Drivetrain FAQs. Tons of great info in there. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/83-drivetrain/

Lots of discussion on FB on this exact topic. IMHO, Paulo was a victim of his own success. He's a small one-man show, and got way behind on orders over the last year or two; and then had the misfortune of a major fire in his facilities (as mentioned above). It will be quite a while, if ever, if he gets business back on track. I know of a few people that have ordered from RHDJapan recently, and have been very happy: https://www.rhdjapan.com/

The voltmeter wiring is really pretty simple. What year/model is the car? Has the voltmeter EVER worked for you; and if so, when did it stop working? If a PO replaced ammeter with voltmeter, they may not have done it correctly. An easy diagnostic is to remove the gauge, and hook it directly to a good battery. If no reading, then the problem is the gauge. If it does read correctly, then you'll know the problem is in the wiring somewhere. A lot of the multiplug connectors in the various harnesses can easily get corroded and/or loose and cause issues like you're experiencing with the voltmeter. Good luck with it.

Yep, increased track width will generally improve cornering traction overall. Another thing to keep in mind is that many techniques to widen the track will decrease the effective spring rate (due to the longer moment arm acting on the spring).

I run 1" adapter/spacers on the rear to increase rear track width. I also have improved my front caster with adjustable TC rods, so the car turns fairly neutral. What size wheels and tires are you running?

I've been using them for about a year now, and have been pretty happy with them. They improved the LCA geometry on my lowered suspension; increased my neg camber (by about a degree IIRC); and increased front track width by about 2" total. The only major downside I see with them is that they can induce interference between the steering arms and the wheels with rim diameter 15" or less. I would definitely buy them again.

Agree with JonM....it's usually not necessary. After cutting my front fenders, I rolled a small inner lip to add some structural integrity. Made a big difference. One think to keep in mind: it may actually be helpful to NOT do anything to add stiffness here. For whatever reason, one may want the ability to push or pull the fender in/out in order to gain more clearance or reduce front end width....or just for purely aesthetic reasons. Adding stiffness to the fender metal makes this harder to do.

I had the same analysis of this area as JonM. I've done a lot of bracing in the front end; but nothing forward of the strut towers and sway bar mounts. When I cut out the top portion of the radiator support, I replaced it with a bolt-in section of thick angle aluminum. Figured I could replace the aluminum with steel if necessary; but haven't had any problems in two years...and it makes pulling the engine and trans SO much easier, as well as smaller jobs like water pump, harmonic balancer, etc.

Really like how both versions are offered....either direct swap with the half-shafts, or the full unit which does away with the need for bolt-in side axles. Thanks for posting these up!

The fuel sending unit is located inside your fuel tank. However, before going to the effort of dropping your tank to remove the sending unit, I would do some preliminary troubleshooting.....may be simple as loose wiring in your dash harness, or the gauge itself has stopped working, etc, etc. If you don't have the FSM for your car, you can download it for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/.

You can certainly try hooking the amp back up to see if anything changes. There's no telling what crazy wiring mods previous owners have down to the car. The main fuse panel in the passenger footwell area are the only fuses you need to check, unless someone has added more fuses throughout the various harnesses over the years. If the amp was somehow wired so as to affect the operation of ANY other components (e.g. your dash lights, your gauges, etc); I'd suggest fixing that immediately. Shouldn't work that way. Good luck with it.

My guess would be that the amp was installed somewhere in your dash; and in disconnecting it, you disturbed some other circuit(s) which apparently affected multiple components....could've been 12V lines, or grounds, or signal feed lines, or some combination of all three. Don you have full schematics for your car? If not, you can download them for free from Xenonzcar.com. Worth their weight in gold for troubleshooting issues exactly like the ones you're currently experiencing.

Very generally speaking, you'll need the correct mustache bar and half-shafts for the R200. You will also need to swap your input flange on to the R200 so it matches up to your driveshaft. But honestly, why do you think you need to do the swap? The R200 is quite a bit heavier and bulkier than the R180, and if you're not planning to beef up your engine output, the swap is really not necessary. Also, I would open both differentials to verify the drive ratio(s) before starting the swap. My two cents...

I'd suggest putting the car on jackstands and running it while searching underneath for the source of the noise(s). Clunking noise could be one of a dozen potential issues. Same goes for "grinding" and "whirring" noises. May need a stethoscope-type of tool to locate noises internal to a component. You can run the speed up and down in different gears (including reverse), and simulate load on the rear axle with the foot brake and parking brake. You can also check for obvious looseness in components with the suspension unloaded. Obviously this doesn't fully simulate driving down a road, but it can be very helpful in either locating or eliminating sources of noises/issues. Replacing parts before doing any diagnosis is just guess-work. My two cents...

Uh, did you happen to notice that this thread is 10 years old?

Not trying to get this thread off track; but I'm curious what shocks you're running with those springs rates, @Ben280? Also, is your front bar adjustable? Thx.

Just curious....have you dyno'ed your SBC? Reason I ask is because when my SBC was stock, it was making 179 hp to the rear axle. It was a late-'70's stock block with a Holley 600 and block hugger headers. The torque was good, but severely lacking in high end performance....which was pretty much par for the course in the late 1970's. If you're running the stock front bar (either 18mm or 20mm, I can't recall which exactly), and no rear bar, you may need more bar. Either bigger front bar, or a rear bar, or both. Sounds like you're running aftermarket springs in the stock position....so they're something like Eibach or Stagg? If so, your spring rate is probably 180 or 200 lb/in, which is on the soft side for track use. More negative camber is an absolute must for track work. On the front AND rear. Also, has the track been repaved/refinished/etc or otherwise modified since you last drove it in your 2012 Forester? New cars have extremely sophisticated brakes and suspensions compared to the archaic hardware on our beloved Z's. Simple FOL. Good luck with your winter plans

I'm really starting to think this is a simple carb issue. Have you pulled it apart and inspected it since you bought the car? I think you said that the accelerator pumps were pushing fuel; but there still could be any number of issues with the carb causing your problem, most solved quite easily.....dirty/plugged jets, incorrect float settings, etc. A carb rebuild kit is very cheap, and a good idea on any used car that's been through multiple POs. Oftentimes, the entire fuel system (from tank to carb) is full of dirt, crud and rust; and your car will never run correctly until all that crap is cleaned out.

I think I've seen them before (on FB "Datsun Parts and Needs" page). Advertising under user name "Kim Mays"? I haven't bought any parts from them (yet), but they've been very responsive to questions and requests for add'l info. Let us know how you like the panels!