NewZed

Add any head skimming to the program. Are these guys building the engine for you or just doing machine work? A good shop should be able to lay out everything that they think they need to do, before they even start. Piecemeal from the internet doesn't seem very quick.

Points or electronic? Pictures?

They should be able to estimate the depth with some simple measurements. If it's just some pitting next to a water passage you could probably seal it with JB Weld. Don't conflate coolant pressure with cylinder pressure. Pictures would be neat. Might get some better advice. Edit - not that advice so far isn't good. Just more of it.

These guys probably have what you're looking for. http://www.zspecialties.com/ https://zcardepot.com/oil-pump-drive-spindle-oem-280zx-turbo-81-83.html

Looks like you should have an L83. Things got weird in the 80's with lots of variation, I've never heard of some of the L's. Still, it's a standard early small block chevy. The JTR kit and book should work fine, I'd guess. Those extra pins on the alternator are probably for ECU diagnostics. Not necessary. Good luck. Even with the intake it's probably down on horsepower but probably still a torque monster. A diff and axle breaker. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine#L83

Build a similar plate to the one you already have but put it directly over the mounting points. Run some pipe up the plate, or build a structure from more plate. You could even use threaded pipe portions for pinion angle adjustment. Or tie it in to the tunnel. Removes the leverage problem and clears up a lot of space. Looks like you have the fabrication skills.

First glance says that you have a bad MC. You'll get a firm pedal at first then the pedal drops when pressure blows fluid past a bad seal. The booster gives that extra force to blow the seal. Edit - I wrote something about how "new" reman's are often bad out of the box but it didn't get through for some reason. Weird. Anyway, there it is. "New" doesn't mean good.

Does it even run? Do you have a place to work on it? Not really enough info to say if it's worth $500. If it takes another $1000 to make it a daily driver, keep looking for a $1500 car that runs. Add up the parts you'll have to buy just to get it going. The "seal" on the front brake is going to need a new caliper. A decent battery is $100. If the tires are shot, that's another $600. Looks like the tires don't even match. It might just be a parts car. If you can't take it for a test drive, don't buy it.

There's no this.

It's very often the bleed valve orientation. A bad booster won't cause the pedal to go to the floor. You either have bad seals in the MC, air in the hydraulic lines, or a mechanical misadjustment. The standard test for air in the lines is to see if the pedal will "pump up". Pump the pedal quickly several times and see if the pedal gets higher.

Apparently the Tacoma is the closest North American variant. The HiLux isn't sold here. Might be worth a side-by-side comparison of the boosters. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux Seventh generation (AN10, AN20, AN30; 2004–2015)[edit] The seventh generation Hilux (AN10/AN20/AN30), part of the IMV program, started production in Thailand during August 2004.[17] Three pickup truck body variants were initially produced: a two-door Single Cab (referred to by Toyota as IMV1), a two-door Xtra Cab (IMV2), and four-door Double Cab (IMV3).[26] In September 2008, Toyota released the Smart Cab, a four-door with hidden rear suicide doors.[27] The IMV program also spawned the Toyota Innova (AN40) minivan (IMV4) and Toyota Fortuner (AN50/AN60) SUV (IMV5).[17] The similar Toyota Tacoma pickup truck, introduced in February 2004 for the 2005 model year, is based on the 4Runner chassis, while the AN10/AN20/AN30 Hilux rides on an revamped version of the ladder frame found on previous versions. The Hilux increased in size and then became classified as a mid-size pick up. Hilux models sold in Asian, European, Middle Eastern, and Oceanian markets are built and assembled in Thailand. .

You can use "slew rate" ignition timing control. It changes timing if the engine RPM accelerate too fast. Edit - to be clear, it uses rev-limiting, in whatever form that is. One example - https://www.hotrod.com/articles/msd-ignition-traction-control/

A slide hammer, a long bolt, and some SteelStik would probably do it. The insides are all greased up so you wouldn't have to worry about gluing anything to the crankshaft.

AZC says drive shafts aren't ready yet. But then their whole web site is from the 90's so who knows. Good luck. http://arizonazcar.com/strassy.html

The black one was mentioned in the link, as one of the three. Three show cars. Should be interesting to see how the pieces hold up to 200 mph. It's hard to tell how well built the cars really are. The odd "I'm a 240Z story" seems to have been copied to many sites, like somebody building a brand, but it's hard to read. I couldn't finish it. I think that it might have been famous in a small community for a short while. Good luck with making it a performance car. The Modern Motorsports package is probably the most effective bolt-in product. Already tested and proven. That's what you're paying for, hence the cost.

It's not done unless the charge is completely gone or you need "perfect".

Dang, screwed up my post.

How did it become "famous"? I had to Google it and the stories seem to be from somebody talking about their own car. I'm not sure you're allowed to claim your own fame. Your description of wanting bolt-on only is why I tried to clarify. That's not what most people here would call best. They weld on a whim. I guess that you bought the black one? Or are you Jack? https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=19345

We neglected to abuse the OP for using the word "best". Best depends on the goals that have been defined.

Don't mtnickel's adapters remove the requirement of shorter axles? Flipping the cages, adjustable control arm length and all of the other possible "fixes". The other big expense to that conversion. I seem to recall that some of the early adapters pushed the flange surface inward. Maybe even the one that Joe makes now. I'm just focusing on the OP's project, not the super duper drag racers. SUNNYZ and RebekahZ were doing hard core racing. Pretty sure that SUNNYZ was trying to break things.

You'd have 280Z axles. Lots of 280Z's out there with much more power than you're planning, using the stock hubs and axles. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/6

How do those locate, or center, the CV? Just curious. It also looks like you're using the outer edges of the original flange to locate the ring. Do you use some sort of fixture to center the ring on the flange before welding? Just wondering how to be sure the CV is on center and perpendicular when it's all welded and bolted together.

You're probably fine with the u-joint half shafts. Many, many, of the "upgrades" aren't really upgrades. If you're not drag-racing. You didn't even say what kind of Z you're working with. 240, 260, or 280? They're not the same, although they're all S30's..

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=bestkeywordmatch&SortOrder=ascending&keyword=mr%20gasket%20electric%20fuel%20pump&cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-all-part-types-_-keyword

How do you know it's fuel starvation? What does "gun it hard" mean? Like SJ says, you really just need the volume to keep the float bowls full. You can measure the rate to see what you're getting. An EFI conversion isn't going to be easier than getting a carb to work.