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Leon

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Everything posted by Leon

  1. Leon
    FWIW, I have Hawk Blues on a street-driven E36, I'd call the cold friction perfectly acceptable and nowhere near unsafe. Dust and squeal is another story. I've run DTC-30's on my S2000 for 4 years and have liked them. Not much warm-up required at all (they're fine when driven cold on the street) and have good modulation. I would probably get ~10 days out of them if I had to guess. I was in a pinch last year with worn out front pads before a track day and tossed some PFC 08's in there. The PFC's have felt terrific so far, great fade resistance and modulation, but the squeal is pretty gnarly. It's still street driven so noise is not an inconsequential side-effect.
  2. Leon
    That points to some of the repeat issues I have with the majority of custom suspension parts out on the market. They're almost never designed with structure in mind so they end up over-mass and/or less stiff and less strong.
  3. Leon
    If we're talking rear arms, I think these are what's being referenced: https://silverproject.eu/rear-control-arm-adjustable-arms-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ In which case, there are some design issues with them. Mainly, they'll cause binding in the strut (see the many threads on this site on custom rear arms). I'm also not stoked on the shear plate design they have between the outer bushings and the tubes, a bit concerned about buckling which would be exacerbated by bending loads from the ARB and stiction in the bushes. Plus, they cut a hole in the primary lateral load path...
  4. Leon
    A photo of the stamped firewall VIN above the brake booster location would help clear everything up.
  5. Leon
    My concerns on durability were more from a lack of isolation from low amplitude, high frequency vibrations (i.e. fatigue loads) coming from the engine. As long as the metal that joins everything together is strong enough, you're fine. It'll be buzzy for sure!
  6. Leon
    Hey Nathan, I'm not seeing the pictures but from what you're describing, the size of the bushings you're using for engine mounts sounds really small. I'd expect them to give you very little isolation and more or less act like solid mounts. You may also run into durability issues, depending on how hard and how often you drive the car.
  7. Leon
    Yup, saw it there. It's hard to pin-point a value but I'd guess you're looking a lot closer to the $7k than $15k. Your Offerup ad is no longer live for reference but if you get $10k, I'd say you did well.
  8. Leon
    ClassicZcars.com is a good place to list. You can also try Facebook, e.g. Datsun Parts and Needs, but that can be a bit of a cesspool at times.
  9. Leon
    Awesome project, looking forward to seeing more! Curious how you'll be handling the BMS and motor controls.
  10. Leon
    Forwarding to a few friends that are looking for one.
  11. Leon
    Agreed. Stock suspension with good dampers and at least 3" of bump travel will do the trick.
  12. Leon
    No worries, shout if you have any questions and let us know what you decide.
  13. Leon
    You've decimated the main lateral load path which transfers tire forces into the body via the lower control arms. The chassis has lost a lot of lateral stiffness. I agree with Cary regarding putting high bending loads into your rack bar and killing steering feel. At best, your lateral dynamics and steering take a hit. At worst, you'll have premature rack failure and fatigue failure somewhere in the crossmember. A shear plate welded to the bottom will certainly help. The engine also looks very close to the crossmember. Are you solid-mounting the engine? In that case, it may very well become a stressed-member in cornering as well...
  14. Leon
    If the mustache bar bushings are made solid then some of the concerns are alleviated. I don't disagree regarding compliant toe, factory rear suspension probably also goes toe-out in cornering, but that's something I would aim to fix if I were redesigning the suspension. I do disagree about the diff mounting. From a quick google, you can see that the aft bushings are pressed into the Mustang's subframe. The inner metal of the bushing directly connects to the diff and allows the diff to move within the confines of that bushing. That's the proper use of a diff bushing. What I'm seeing on the Apex setup is that the bushings are sandwiched between the diff and the subframe. Unless the bushings are actually metal spacers (don't see a reason why that would be though), this is a huge no-no for that fastened joint. I smell either a fatigue failure coming on for the diff mount bolts or the bolts backing out completely. As was mentioned previously, as it sits, that bushing would only have a chance at isolating longitudinal forces. In short, that's absolutely not the correct application of a diff bushing, if that is the case.
  15. Leon
    Here are some issues I have with this: - the LCA's are mounted to a frame which is hard mounted on one side and soft mounted on the other side (!) - this will cause a toe-out scenario under cornering which can make the car snappy and unpredictable - they coupled diff torque reaction to the LCA pickup - the diff is potentially mounted on isolators at the snout but hard-mounted at the case (hard to tell based on all the photos floating around) - what's the mass save (or add)? - other stuff, see screenshot
  16. Leon
    The sad truth about aftermarket stuff in general... is that it's crap. I've worked in motorsports, including development of aftermarket components, and I've worked at an automotive OEM developing production vehicles. The time and money spent designing and validating OEM components is multiple magnitudes greater than anyone in motorsports or the aftermarket. Now one may say, "but we're replacing parts that were designed 50 years ago". That's true and I agree, there's room for improvement but that still takes a lot of thinking, time, and money. The John Coffey's of the world understand this very well, that's one of the reasons why John moved on from running Beta Motorsports to work at a high-end Porsche shop. Those guys are willing to pay. The classic Japanese market is slowly working on catching up... More power to the folks that try to make it in the aftermarket stuff but the vast majority of customers just aren't willing to pay the money that it would cost to produce well thought-out and validated components. I'm not saying that there's ill-intent, it's mostly well-meaning enthusiasts who may have some design and fabrication skills and want to carve out a niche in the market. This market has a lot of maturing to do. This is why HybridZ is, or certainly was, such an interesting corner of the internet. There was a core group of folks gathered in one place with a level of awareness to be able to understand the limitations and trade-offs of what they're doing. All of this is to say, this is why I maintain a healthy pessimism when looking at shiny things.
  17. Leon
    FWIW, the F20C of the Honda S2000 has an 84mm stroke and revs to 9000RPM from the factory. The F22C1 has a 90.7mm stroke with an 8200RPM limit. The pistons are forged but you get the point.
  18. Leon
    Hello Paul and welcome! I'm not sure where your notions regarding the L28 come from but I'd disagree. What you describe above is totally doable via "Option 1". I wouldn't consider a 79mm stroke as particularly long, you can build an L28 to happily spin to 7k RPM all day long. Balance the engine, bump the compression, put in a hearty cam, some headwork, triple carbs (or ITB's), a lightweight flywheel and you're set. On the topic of gearboxes, there are multiple options out there, e.g. the FS5W71B box from period Nissan/Datsuns, FS5W71C from later Nissans (240SX in the US), the T5 from the 280ZX Turbo, along with less often used boxes like the CD009. I've built pretty much what you're looking for so please feel free to reference. I apologize as the information is sprinkled throughout but there's enough L-series content in there to keep you busy: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/#comments There's enough great reference material here at HybridZ to keep you reading for days. The Z-Car Blog has some great inspiration as well: https://www.zcarblog.com/
  19. Leon
    Nobody else combines the mustache bar with the LCA mounts, take another look. This is a fundamentally flawed design, in multiple ways.
  20. Leon
    As zboi rightfully points out, they've coupled the differential's torque reaction to the aft control arm pickup points. Not only that, but the fore subframe mounts will now be working harder to keep this whole thing attached to the body. If this was actually done by an "engineer", I would question their credentials.
  21. Leon
    Hello and welcome, Michael! ClassicZCars and HybridZ fill different voids. Come here for performance modifications (mild to wild) and engineered-solutions. CZC is more active and a good source for general Z knowledge, especially for stock and mildly modified cars. You'll have to weed through some junk but it's typically pretty good, especially if you're seeking something specific.
  22. Leon
    Here's the first thing that pops into my head. If you think this looks good, I say go for it.
  23. Leon
    The setup is looking good, I like the vision of the project.
  24. Leon
    I can see why he'd be confused, as you quoted him!
  25. Leon
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