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Found 85 results

  1. L28ET Swap

    Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  2. Hey guys, quick question. I have an L28ET in my car (with MS) and I am upgrading to supra injectors, the 7mgte ones. From what i have researched, they are 440cc and work with a pallnet 11mm rail, which I just ordered from him. I am confused as to what impedance I need. Here's what I currently believe to be true: L28ET injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to make them work. 7M-GTE injectors are also low impedance, and should be used in my system with my current resistor pack. However, all the 7m-gte injectors on eBay (don't worry, not ordering from there) are listed as high impedance. I just don't want to order the wrong injectors, is there anyone who is running the 440cc injectors on an L28ET who can chime in to what their wiring system is? I don't want to order them before I at least have some answer.....There is so much weird and confusing information out there about this stuff. Thanks in advance!
  3. Want to get rid of the OEM fuel rail. Please let me know if you have fuel rails for the stock injectors for a L28et. Closer to NJ the better but will pay for shipping if price makes sense.
  4. Need a map to get it running

    Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx throttle body and tps, walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, i have bypassed the fuel pressure regulator for now as it wasnt allowing fuel though. I have messed arounf with some other maps i found on the forum but none of them are perfect. I want to say my firmware is the latest for ms2 extra. i belive i have the pcb 3.0. i will atatch the tune i found and am looking thru. Anything helps thankyou. CurrentTune.zip
  5. Up for sale is 2x ECU from a 1983 280zx Turbo car with 5Speed transmission. This was taken out of a running cars few year's ago. The number on the cover is A18-603 045 on both. Nissain part number is 23710-P9900. Years: 09-82 / END For 1x ECU I'm asking 175$ (OBO) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) Ask for shipping quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. It will be paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  6. washed block before teardown

    From the album L28et Rebuild

  7. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this soundick like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
  8. Hello i am new to this forum but i hope to get some opinions. I have fully restored my 260z and it is mostly stock, i recently bought and rebuilt a l28et. now that the engine is done i am moving to the wiring and i come to realise that i do not have the proper wiring harness. The guy i got the engine from gave me everything he had. by the looks of it i have a 82 l28 ecu and harness, a later 70's wiring harness slightly cut up, and the correct 82 l28et ecu. Should i bother with the stock ECCS and make a harness or should i buy a megasquirt. The megasquirt is tempting but im one to save a dollar. the megasquirt seems very complicated for my liking. if anyone has an 82 l28et harness i need it. My hope is to finish this swap before april. thankyou
  9. In need of a complete, working 1982/1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo distributor/ignitor. I am located in 85120 I'm willing to hvw one shipped I need ASAP thank you.
  10. l28et vems standalone

    Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
  11. Decided to go a different route with my L28ET build so I am selling off my Turbonetics turbo i never got to use. It is their TNX line of turbos. The exact turbo can be seen here https://turboneticsinc.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_105&product_id=692 I opted for the .65 AR housing. Model: TNX-40/64 Comp Wheel: 82/64mm Comp Inlet: 4.0" Comp Out: 2.5" Turbine Wheel: 69/55mm Turbine Housing: T3 0.65AR Turbine Housing Inlet/Outlet: 4-bolt/ 3" V-Band Let me know if there are any other images you would like of the Turbo. Retail price for the turbo with housing is $2144.98 before shipping My asking price is $1500obo, Free shipping to any of the 48 states
  12. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  13. I have been working on resurrecting my '72 240z w/ l28et conversion. In the past two years the car has come a long way. Due to lack of time and/or lack of expertise I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on the following items remaining on my restoration to-do list: 1. Installation of interior control panel 2. Install of radio and speakers 3. Install of sound deadening 4. Fender roll or install of fender flares 5. Troubleshoot ignition/fuel issue (fairly certain it's a bad TPS) I'm in north/central jersey. If anyone has a trustworthy and reasonably priced mechanic that can do the work, please let me know.
  14. What I have for sale is a rebuild-able L28ET. The motor fires right up, and idles fine, but overheats after 20 minutes at idle, or 5 minutes of hard driving. Rebuild is required. Local pickup, delivery, or ship to your door. All estimated prices do not include shipping (92804). P90 head (Solid lifters) - SOLD F54 Block - SOLD83 ECU [A18-605-581] - $100 OBO 83 Turbo AFM [A31-624-600] - $60 83 Igition Coil, Igniter, Bracket - SOLD 83 Dizzy, shaft and oil pump - SOLD MSD wires - SOLD JSK Fuel Rail - SOLD 6 fuel injectors - SOLD N42 Intake Manifold non egr w/ 240sx TB - SOLD 83 Harness - SOLD 280z 5 speed if your interested as well - SOLD ZX 12-80 Dizzy W/ Taylor wires from MSA - SOLD 6-2-1 Square Port Headers - SOLD Turbo setup - SOLD Other than that, I have misc parts like zx alternator, starter, etc. just ask. ZX alternator - SOLD Starter - SOLD ZX Fan clutch autozone special, brand new - SOLD Turbo J Pipe With Turbo Clamp - $35 Valve Cover and Oil Cap w/ Minor Scratches - $60
  15. Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 81 l28et (all stock) swap into my 74 260z. My harness was missing the 6 pin ignition harness. I wired the correct yellow/white stripe wire (3) to my ignitor. Other prong on ignitor has its own switched 12v. The yellow wire (2) on the harness side has switched 12v. And finally the supposedly black ground wire (3) on my harness is cut and i can not for the life of me find the wire . If someone can tell me where this wire goes or what prong on the computer plug it connects to. Thank you 74 260z 73 240z
  16. WTB: l28et

    Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
  17. 280zx Turbo Part out

    I have Some 83 280ZX Turbo parts for sale... -P90A Head complete $400 -Borg Warner T5 Transmission + Custom Mount for 240z $400 -Custom Drive shaft. 240z R180 > T5 Transmission $250 -F54 Block Good Condition new rings. $400 -Exhaust Manifold $250 -T3 Turbo in usable condition little play on the shaft and spins freely complete comes with Stock DP. $150 -N42 Intake Manifold non EGR $200 -Stock Intake Manifold (Stripped down) $100 -Pallnet 14mm Oring Fuel Rail + 370cc injectors $150 -Turbo Harmonic Balancer $75 -oil pan $100 -280zxt stock driveshaft $30 -MSD Blaster 2 coil $40 -83 280zx Turbo Distributor $100 -Oil Pump $50 Would be willing to ship most items.
  18. As the title suggests looking for a z that's swapped clean would be a plus. As much as possible no rust. Willing to travel for the right one
  19. Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
  20. 240z L28et Build

    Hi all, This is my first post on this forum. I have a 1970 240z that I am currently working. I am picking up an L28et as well as a 5 speed transmission from a 1983 280zx. I am looking to get a good amount of power out of this engine (around 450+ whp). After hours of research I have come up with the following L28et P90 head- port and polish dewebbed intake manifold JE forged flat top pistons (raise compression to 8:5:1) Injector 550cc Holset hx35 turbo Fuel rail? Depends what's out there Stand alone megasquirt ecu Differential 3.9 or 4.11 r180 3" exhaust I know I am missing a few things but I just wanted to get your guys input. I am new to these engines so please bear with me. Thanks.
  21. History: bought a hacked up l28et swap in a '78 280z and I'm trying to figure out what is what. It took me forever simply to find what front brake pads were on there! (from a toyota 4x4) I was able to find that out, and most of what I need, from researching posts on here, but there is one thing I'm having a really hard time finding, and that's the proper ECU for my engine. The one that was in there is #A11-600 000, and I'm relatively confident that that is indeed from the original '78 N/A engine, and wont work with the existing '83 turbo engine. right now it's running SUPER rich and everything else has been tested/replaced. I found a few used ones that claim they are from an '83 turbo #A11 654 806, but some forums say that those #'s only are from the N/A model. help please! I've been doing a ton of research and every time I find what I'm looking for it conflicts with what I've found already, before I buy anything I'd like to know for sure it's the right one. Thanks, Caleb
  22. I've bought a number of vehicles in my time, but I'm looking for specific advice here. Here's what I have: 1. 72 240z 2. n42 l28 with SU carbs (x2) 3. 4speed transmissions (x2) It needs a radiator, all the hard lines, pedals, rear brakes, seats, and harnesses before it can move itself around. Because of that, I started looking for a parts donor for all the little stuff, to get the ball rolling. I happened to find a 280z with an l28et in it and a couple manual transmissions attached. It has side skirts and bumper covers, which kind of concern me, and the engine wiring is incomplete. None of that concerns me much, but my previous experience with early Nissan EFI does. I haven't seen a reliable, effective l28et using the stock engine management. Therefore, the plan for this car would be to plop one of my SU-fed l28's in it and put the l28et on a stand as the more serious build for my 240z. Here's the question of the day: Aside from the obvious doglegs, frame rails, battery tray, engine rotation, brake line condition, etc ... what dealbreakers should I look for tonight?
  23. Hey everyone, I have been a lurker here for a while but I feel I have saved up enough and planned enough to have you check my build plans as they now stand. Attached is my build list of parts. My goal is to take my current stock 240z back to like new with modern touches. I would like to be sitting comfortably above 300 WHP with an l28et. I am looking for good suspension but I am not looking to track so I am not sure if coil-overs are necessary. Please check the build list first before you comment. I have rebuilt 2 engines back to stock but this is my first true performance build so I would love some direct input from more experienced members. Big questions currently in my mind: Will I be happy with the suspension I have selected? I am afraid it will be sitting too high and/or I will be unhappy with the fact that I couldn't adjust anything should the need arise. Should I budget for forged pistons? It seems the stock bottom end would handle my build but to me forged would gaurantee it and the lighter pistons would just be good for it anyway, but I am not going to go forged if I don't need to. Are there any major parts I have forgotten? I am budgeting an extra $1000 for small things I will end up buying like tools and misc parts. I assume I will get many of the parts for cheaper than I listed but I would rather over estimate now and come out better than expected. Thanks! I already have an l28et that I pulled out of an old 280zx and it is sitting on a stand in my garage. I will be sending it in to get machined and cleaned after I decide on a few more things. 240z Project Fleshed Out Sheet1.pdf 240z Project Fleshed Out Sheet1.pdf
  24. Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
  25. L28Turbo Valve Cover

    Need an L28 Turbo Valve Cover
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