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Found 36 results


    Good morning from the hurricane capital of America. I have often read the postings on the site and found them interesting and helpful. By the way I am a NEWBIE to the site but not to S30 cars. I have spent many years crawling around them and know them quite intimately, as do most of you. So I look forward to reading more as I complete restoration on #6333. But for now I am in search of air filters for my 47mm SK/OER carbs. TATSUMI out of Japan stocks them but someone in America does also but my smart device out started me and I by accidentally erased all my links during a ROUTINE purging of my tablets search history. K&N stocks them but a GOOGLE search has not rendered any results. I would appreciate any assistance. I will slowly begin to build an album to chronicle the rest of the restoration but here is an appetizer!
  2. 280z 302 sbf swap

    Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  3. Selling drivetrain from a Fox Body Mustang GT that was in the 72Z I am doing a Laine conversion on. Engine is complete except for distributor, injectors and fuel lines. Bores look good but no clue as to bottom end. Headers, starter water, pump attached. I would run it on a stand before install $150, pickup only. AOD is complete, fluid was clean. $75, pickup only. 8.8" rear axle complete from hub to hub with disk brakes and air shocks with 3 link. $100, pickup only. email if u want photos [email protected]
  4. Getting into the Z game

    Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  5. Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
  6. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  7. 280Z Rough Idle/Sputter

    So I have a 76 280Z 2+2 with a rough idle when cold. It also doesn't really like starting from cold. Have to give it gas to get it going. Once it heats up it is fine. But here is the kicker, on cold idle it seems to suck air up the tail pipe, which stops when it warms up. I held a lighter up to the tailpipe and watched the flame go up the tail pipe. It also smells like it is running rich, with a glorious off throttle backfire and some black smoke. Timing is good, fuel system has been pretty much completely replaced, compression was also checked, all 6 cylinders right around 135-150, not great but decent. I am wondering if it could be a valve lash issue? Not sure what else to check.
  8. Ls1 in a 280z??

    Hello! i have seen multiple videos where people have engine swapped a 280z with an Ls1 from a corvette! If i were to buy an engine and transmission from ebay or craigslist, how hard is this swap to do and what parts are essential? i have looked on other forums and haven't found much on the topic. Thanks for any replies!
  9. Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
  10. sr20det engine in a 280z?

    Hello! I am interested in switching out a stock 280z's engine for a nissan sr20det. i have heard that this is not a very easy swap, and i was wondering what i would need to do it. the 280z is currently stock. thanks for any replies!
  11. I have a Swiss cheesed 1979 280zx Naturally Aspirated 5 speed built in 1/79 VIN is HS130130682 and the odometer says 83686. The tabs expired in 2013 and the owner says it ran when he parked it (about 3 years), I'm currently attempting to get the engine running, its not seized and its got spark I'll be attempting to get it a good fuel source in the next few days. I'm pulling anything with value off the car please post here if you want to buy something or want me to pull/check the condition of a part I can take pictures of them. None of the body panels are usable. I personalty have no experience with 280zx's (I got a 240z). So I have no clue what the value of some of these parts are, make me an offer. If the rear end is a R200 when I end up pulling it I'm keeping it, if it ends up being a R180 its for sale. Parts Sold Wheels Instrument Clusters Fuel Sending Unit Transmission Rear Interior Panel Left Rear Interior Panel Left Front Spindle/Strut Housing and Hub
  12. WTB L28

    Looking for one in running condition, intake and exhaust headers not necessary. A good-quality long block is acceptable also. I'm in Arizona and willing to drive up to 1 state away to pick up, but we could figure out shipping from anywhere else also.
  13. IMAG1120

    From the album 280Z Project - in progress

    Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake.
  14. Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
  15. I just acquired a 1976 280z parts car that I am only taking a few things off of. I'm looking to part out anything basically. Shoot me an offer if you want something, and also check out my wanted ad, as we could work out a trade as well for parts I need for my build. I have already taken the louvers, hood, and windshield for my car. Also the frame is non-existent so don't ask for pieces of it. Location: Warren/Youngstown, Ohio Major parts for sale: Complete with 45,000 original miles N42/N42 2.8L engine ran when parked currently has no spark to try and fire it up, but does still turn over easily 4-speed transmission Stock R200 differential 280z Front and rear strut assemblies Whale Tail Fiberglass front fenders with molded flares Rear flares ( will need to be molded in) Wiring, ECU, etc. (Wheels are sold)
  16. Raising the Dead

    The wind howls like wolves outside my door, and the cold tonight soaks into my bones as it has so many nights before. But tonight, here I stand gazing upon her lifeless body. She's waited years for me to find her. I admire the beauty that's still quite apparent after so many years of neglect having been laid to rest in a field decades earlier. They had tried to save her, worked hard to preserve her heart and smoothed her skin as she laid motionless. They then they left her, seldom to visit. We'd pulled her from that dusty grave in that field, dragging her body miles in the dead of the night to my workshop. It's difficult to understand why someone would let her rot, though there is a point when you recognize that she's beyond their ability to try any harder and the pain of knowing you cannot see her live is greater than your need to see her beauty. That is not me, I still see her beauty and I know she will move again, she will breathe and life will return; I will restore her youth. Be it brute strength, chemical, or lightning, She will live, I must only find the method... So here's the deal, I dragged a 70' 240Z from a field some time back where she was a project that won the fight, and her owner could not handle the restoration. He had last worked on her 15 years before. Her last date of registration reads 1983, so it's been more that 30 years since she's run. In his restoration, he'd completely rebuilt the engine, and dropped it back in place along with the 4 speed. so it's all stock, but I don't think the engine was ever started as the fuel lines have been still disconnected. They then sanded the body down from it's blue to it's copper to it's original silver, then primered 90% of the outside in grey primer. They took all the lights and trim off and put it in boxes inside, only the headlights, and tail lights remain installed. That's where they either ran out of time, or ran out of money. I looked and it's got clear amber oil, though I would never run that, I did turn the engine with a wrench to make sure it wasn't locked up. She turned nicely, so mechanically I believe the engine is in good shape... This is where the "method" comes in. When you have an Engine that has sat for YEARS (at least 15 as I could tell), What is the SAFEST method for attempting to start it. Of course I can get fuel and spark together, and I will change the oil, but I want to know what is recommended to do prior to trying to breathe life into her again. If I have to rebuild, I will, but as I said it looks great, just dusty. In NM it's dry, 15% humidity at the MOST. so I'm not really worried about a lot of rust internally in the engine mainly I'm worried about old oil varnish or gummed up oil passageways. I can crank her over I'm sure, at least enough to get compression numbers, BUT I've heard horror stories of people trying to start old engines and blowing rods or locking up cylinders so I'm asking for advice on doing it right Though the primer had mostly worn away on her body, and I am going to just replace the hood and left fender due to a pair of dents where it looks like something fell. I'll have to re-sand and pull a lot of the rust out of the metal along with some other bodywork, I'm not too scared of. Mostly I'd like to avoid doing something stupid and messing up the engine if indeed it was rebuilt.
  17. Cockpit Heat

    Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
  18. Happy New Year everyone. I'm a complete newbie at diagnosing engine failure and thought I'd see if forum members might be able to help. Our 280Z has been racing in the 24 Hours of Lemons and appears to eat bad made-in-China water pumps. During our last race we replaced failed pumps twice and then found water in the oil. Thinking the head gasket was blown we pulled the head a few weeks after the race and found excessive water/rust in cylinder 1. The engine started and amazingly ran before we pulled the head. The head gasket itself appears to be in good shape; do we have a cracked block? Pictures attached and opinions desired. Thanks in advance. Cylinder #1 as it looked when we pulled the head. Here's the head showing rust just on cylinder #1. Here's cylinder #1 cleaned up and rotated down to check for cracks.
  19. L28 Block Needed in KS, OK, AR

    My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
  20. WTB: L28 ET

    Hey Guys, I have an 84 maxima, and I am looking for an L28et to swap into it. The price I am willing to pay really depends on mileage and condition. I am looking for a full engine, and I would like the air meter and ecu too. I am located in VA, and would consider driving a few states away for a good deal, if it's not with in reasonable driving distance you must be willing to ship the engine. Also, if you have a full 280zx with the turbo engine that you are looking to sell with a known good engine I would consider buying the whole car from you too. As a side note I am also looking to buy first gen 81-84 maxima 5 speed swap parts. Either just the parts or a whole 5 speed gas parts car.
  21. Hi everyone, I am new to the HybridZ community, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I've begun the planning phase of swapping a modified LS7 into my 240Z. I have most of the build planned out, but I am stuck on what the best option is for engine management. I know there has been success with both OEM computers as well as aftermarket systems. I suppose my question revolves around what is needed to successfully integrate an LS motor from an electronics standpoint, and are there any serious limitations on using an OEM Computer/Harness setup? Also, if I missed the relevant threads in my searches, I apologize and hope you all are kind enough to point me in the right direction. Thanks in Advance...
  22. Hey Guys my names Joel. I've been on the forum for a few months, browsing and reading a lot. Skimming topics. I've barely scratched the surface on what I wish to learn and things I need to learn, but all in all, tons of good info. around here. Cool stuff in the archive I can't wait to apply to my Datsun as things progress. Clearly I'm a bit reserved posting my personal things but I do document nearly everything. One day I might make an interesting thread; one day. For now I just wanted to share with you all a little bit and maybe inspire someone as I've been inspired. This will be a log covering my first engine rebuild ever. You see, I decided when I bought my Datsun to avoid as many setbacks as possible due to outsourcing, that I'd try to do as much as I could by myself or under watch of a pro. Buying a non-running Z made my step easy and 1st priority....building a reliable heart. So from scrap to key-on here we go!!!! Just a lil background. I bought my Z and it came with a L28 ( uninstalled ). Engine on a stand, with some quick pre-lim inspections I realized the motor was seized. "No Biggy" I thought to myself, because before I even bought the car I knew a 3.1L build was in the future and that would be the core. I set out on CL to find a replacement but the running engines were scarce and all seemed to be in norcal. The rest just had a sketchy w/ parts or rebuild w/ no receipts caption. I'll pass on those. Anyway, I ended up finding a local L26 w/ some extras for $140 I later when on to sell some spare parts for it netting me a positive $20. It was advertised as running, which I didn't believe that for a sec. but I figured at that price it was worth a gamble to me. Either way I needed an engine and I was prepared to rebuild an engine regardless of who I bought it from. Ready to get this thing underway and see where I stood, I hauled my newly found L26 down to our shop where my buddies and I wrench on Hondas to start my inspection. Off loaded and ready for teardown. I've read a lot of people suggesting to begin with this book so I ordered one up.
  23. I am building an engine on the side and looking for an engine to drop in for now. I am open minded for any types of L6 engine weather it be Turbo, Stroker, Carb, EFI, Stock. I want something to drop in a day and start it up. complete swap and running please. PM me what you got and how much you want for it.
  24. Everything is from a 1983 280ZX with 3N71B auto trans. Complete, uncut wiring harness: The sticker on the computer reads A11-654 806. Some of the connectors from the engine bay have UV damage, but everything else is in great shape. Asking $80 plus shipping. Window motors next.. I tested them after they were out of the car, and they can power themselves freely in each direction. Asking $15 ea. plus shipping. Finally, the distributor. I installed this D6K8 dizzy on my own 240Z and verified that it works perfectly fine. This came out of a '83 ZX. Probably noticed by now that it has an E12-93 matchbox module. I've been running one of these for years now on my own 240Z. It was what I had on hand when an E12-80 failed on me. When the later modules are wired correctly, they work just as well as an E12-80. Just need to run 1 extra wire, and I've posted about it before. Glad to share how to do it. Asking $80 plus shipping.
  25. Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD