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I track my Ford powered 260Z. My personal experience is that transmission gearing is extremely important to getting the most fun on the track. In Florida, you will most likely be doing track days at Daytona and Sebring. Both tracks have very fast sections. Before doing track days, I autocrossed the car. In autocross, you only really need second gear if you have the right differential / tire height. I used Hoosier 275/35-15 tires and have a 3.36 rear end. With a 1.94 second gear in a T-5 and 6,500 rpm, 2nd gear was good for 73 mph. When I started doing track days, I needed all the gears. I had replaced the stock 1st through 4th with G-Force gears and shafts, but fifth gear was still stock. With that set-up, these were my gear ratios. 1st 2.95:1 2nd 1.94:1 3rd 1.33:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.59:1 Worked great until I needed 5th gear. that big a drop absolutely killed the fun (no acceleration in 5th). After my first time a Daytona, I changed 5th gear to 0.81:1. The .81 gear absolutely transformed the car. Now 5th gear is warp drive. The transmission that you show probably doesn't have a good selection of gear ratios, and probably won't hold much power. If it were me, I would get the new TKX with the close ratio rears. That transmission will handle the power and maximize you fun on track. If I didn't already have so much invested in my T5, I would get a TKX. This is the TKX I would get: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TREMEC-TCET18084-TKX-Close-Ratio-5-Speed-Ford-Manual-Transmission,452007.html?srsltid=AfmBOoq-x1paVSDoNvgI38myLy79UBWXzZFW-QeQ4bK1_vWnSHM7bEEJ Gear Ratios 1st - 2.87, 2nd - 1.89, 3rd - 1.28, 4th - 1.00, 5th - 0.81

Let that ship sail! Find another decent body for a few grand and save yourself a ton of time and money. I've seen many "resto plans" dye on the vine after the joy has passed, months and years go by and the person doing it burns out. Just my ywo cents!! Good luck.

Looking again at the pics.....if you don't want to dip it, no sense in really even trying to restore it. It needs it so desperately, you should do it, or just find another Z car IMHO.

Work on this has continued: I went over the whole engine, looks great now: All metal work was finished Most bodywork was finished # Interior Painted Engine Bay Painted Underbody Painted Back on its wheels Full body will soon be in paint.

Ford 8.8 Super Duty 8.8 Differential Installation- First of all, I want to apologize for taking so long to finish this posting. I had to paint my house and had some other people's projects to help them with. The first thing that I had to do was to find a method of jacking the front end of my 240z high enough to use high jack stands. Because of the low ground clearance of my Rocket Bunny Front Air Dam and Low Vehicle Height, even my 3 1/2" Low Clearance Floor Jack would not fit. I solve this problem by purchasing a pair of 3 1/2" Car Ramps. They cost about $36 on Amazon. raises vehicle by 3" These ramps were about 28" long and would work on low riding vehicles. Short steep ramps would not work. They are very light weight and can be sacked together (taking a small storage space). jacking cross member The Ramps worked perfectly as my floor jack fit under the Front Cross Member easily. With the Car raised on Four Jack Stands about 6" off the ground, disassembly of the rear suspension can now take place. I designed my exhaust system for easy accessiblty. It consists of Three Sections-One -Front Motor Exhaust Pipes, 2-Middle Section with "X" Pipe after the transmission and Third- Rear 90 degree Exhaust Pipes with Two Turbo Mufflers. The pipes were also, connected together with V Clamps for fast disassembly. Next, the Two Rear Control Arms must be removed from the Strut Spindles. First, the Threaded Cross Shaft must be removed. The Tapered Shaft retaining Pins must be removed. With the Locking Nut removed, the Pins are removed by tapping them cafefully upwards. now, the Threaded Cross Shafts must be taken out. Because of Corrosion and lack of Lubrication, these shafts usually are difficult to remove. You can not hammer them out as both ends has threaded ends and hammering will damage the threads. ZDEPOT sells the Removal Tool but I made mine own. The tool consists of an Internal Threaded Rod which screws to the Threaded End of the Cross Shaft. The Larger External Tube( 1"OD" acts like a spacer of the Threaded Rod. A Large Nut on the opposite side of end of the Threaded Rod operates like a Forcing Screw to pull the Cross Shaft outward. I welded a proper size Lug Nut to the other end of the Threaded Rod. See Posted Pics for Size and Dimensions of this tool. Metric Lug Nut welded to one end of the Threaded Rod 15/16" Nut( pulling nut) placed on the opposite end of the Threaded Rod Removal Tool installed on Cross Shaft Rear Suspension removed With the Rear Suspension and Differential Removed, install the Differential Support Bracket on the two Long 17mm Mounting Bolts for Trial Fit. This test fit checks if any Fuel and Brake Lies and Hand Brake Cable are in the way. In my case, the Fuel Lines had to be extended and Hand Brake Cable modified. Differential Mounting Bracket Trial Fit- Next-Trial Fitting Differential Cage and Mounts Next-Differential Installation

Thanks, calZ. I switched my throttle cable at the TB from the very top position to the bottom one. I also tried the middle one (not much success there). The car feels normal again.

What size tires will you be running? What rpm are you expecting to set as redline? Also, your calculator has the speed profiles for the option 3 and option 4 swapped. You will have a higher top speed with the 3.3 gear.

Can't be tired yet! It finally got to the point where we were building a car. We decided early on to go with vintage Datsun race suspension mods,parts and brakes from Design Products (dpracing.com), the super trick front crossmember from Apex Engineered and camber plates and Evolved steering knuckles from TechnoToyTuning (T3). As it turned out, when we got the rear struts installed the car was squatted in the rear. After taking some measurements, the struts were shortened to 240 length! After a night of tossing and turning, I did some research and discovered that T3 has a problem solver for that in the form of a riser block that works with their adjustable camber setup and it was problem solved!!

Thanks again this thread and the pics were money, picked up a little rubber stopper from Ace Hardware and worked like a charm. Saw the little orange pieces on the carpet floor, thanks again. Perfect script.

Then it was off to paint. The boys did an amazing job! Worthy of a $50 bottle of tequila and a celebration!

Thanks. Certainly light at the end of the tunnel now. Its been a long road. Will be 2000 hours labour in this restoration by the time its done. Will be in paint by the end of this month, then 5 days colour sanding and polishing, a few days putting the panels back on and windows in. After that its putting all the parts back in and making a new chassis harness to fit a PDM15 and get rid of the old glass fuses along with a tucked front chassis harness. Hopefully will have some life in it again before the end of the summer. But I can't see it being on the road until next year due to costs.

The right side door had rust along the bottom edge seam, indicating that the door skin had probably been replaced and the seam was rotting out. So we folded the seam open and removed both door skins and the 11 lb. door beams. Blasted away the rust, fast-etched and painted the inside with rust encapsulator paint and sealed the seams with epoxy and folded them back.

Thanks for being the guinea pig for this. I was hoping for better results.

Go to ZTherapy and buy this video: “JUST SU’S” British HS6 and Hitachi “SU” https://ztherapy.com/just-sus/ Watch the video until you name every part and understand how the SU works. You are experiencing a lean condition. Note that the throttle shaft on the SU tends to wear out allowing air to leak into the carb causing a lean condition. This air leak makes proper mixture adjustment impossible. Contact Ztherapy for the fix.

Some pictures from earlier this year

It takes some time..... - but will be good in the end:)