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I finally had some time this weekend to work on the Z again and finish off some of the little things that where nagging me. I finished my DIY door card project and got them installed in the car. I must say that they turned out pretty good. The only finishing piece would be to add the wood trim back in but I would have to make one myself. A few weeks ago I managed to pic up a set of Euro taillights from an original Dutch 260z that where in excellent condition. So with the remaining time I had that day I quickly switched them out. Yesterday there was a small all Nissan/Datsun meet I attended which gave me the opportunity to compare my Z with others and do up some inspiration for future modifications. Afterwards I finally had the time to take some proper pictures of the car (with the car not half apart) and cruise along the dikes. WhatsApp Video 2026-07-13 at 09.15.40.mp4

can't believe its been almost a month since an update. got the exhaust done, made a tip from stainless. Got the wastegate tube recirculated, header and downpipe wrapped. Have been wiring away. Running an ecumaster emublack ecu and a hardwire electronics PDM25. Both of which are new to me. Got the engine harness done and chassis harness started. thinking thru everything has been a challenge but so far so good. Have the PDM powering all the lights and the ECU functions. Have the factory blinker stalk controlling the blinkers, and high beam functions. Factory brake pedal sensor for brake lights and Blink marine 12 button can keypad controlling some other functions. A couple days ago i did get it to start and that was a huge relief after this long process and "freshish" engine. oil pressure is great. engine is quiet. so very motivating. 20260707_210144.mp4

07-01-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Well in between working on my other Z, I am still working on this Z car. I went ahead and started working on getting the blue painted portions of the body ready for clear coating, and caulking the border of the carbon fiber pieces. Initially I had planned to paint on a fresh coat of factory blue before clear, but I think I may go with the patina finish that is left after smoothing out the paint and getting it ready for the next step. Using "Poppy's Patina" in a high gloss finish....2 coats.....apply and then the next day apply again for 2 coats is the plan for now. This car is meant to just have fun with. It's the project car while I have the other Z anyway. my 240Z is giving me some timing issues to contend with so I have plenty to do. Also put my water meth pump on some steel to start getting the ideas flowing. PICS:

No sir. The ZPS prototype was fitted in 2011. That EZ setup is similar, but it doesn't use torque sensors or an ECU. It's also substantially more expensive. There IS a company that "copied" our design, but they use an inferior motor that isn't for automotive use. Found it odd that they ordered two of our units back in 2014. We've also developed an electrohydraulic system for those wanting to retain a hydraulically-powered rack, but don't want a traditional PS pump hanging off their engine. Ours uses an electric PS pump with remote reservoir (not as popular as the original ZPS kit, but a number of V8 swap S30 guys have bought one. Hope that's all helpful!

It's a "little" thing, but progress.

07-19-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I started by color sanding and buffing the tops of the fenders and the sail panels with 2000 grit, 3000 grit and 5000 grit and then used Meguires Premium Polish with my foam pad on the buffer at medium speed. Then I re-installed the side view mirrors, and re-installed the emblems and plug for the antenna hole. Then I finished the door panels by putting the latch surround trim under the door release latches on both sides. Then I took some rope and measured out the length for the serpentine belt and the remaining brake lines, which will also be PTFE braided line form "Finishing Lines". All of this took longer than it sounds. PICS:

You really need the hard ring to make it work. The rubber cover holds it in place, but the plastic or metal ring is the pivot, so the geometry is right, and the cable can pull the brakes and hold the car.

I'm not dead. 2025 was a pretty big bust though. Just way too much going on being a family man. But I've recently made some progress. Engine is back out for hopefully the final time. Finished welding up the chassis side of the engine mounts and engine bay is painted. Still need to do some finish welding in the transmission tunnel. Also fabricated a mounting bracket for the brake master (booster delete). Still to be done off the top of my head: Cut down and weld the brake master pushrod Fab new brake lines Mount clutch master Fab clutch line Install flywheel Install adapter plate for final time with loctite and such Install clutch Drain and replace fluid in transmission Clean up transmission shifter hole (rusty from standing water in it (before me)) Install transmission Install new thermostat housing Install rear coolant adapter (with gasket, was just set on for test fitting) Install intake coolant adapter Fab and install engine to engine coolant lines Finish last bits of engine harness wiring Weigh final engine/transmission combo Install engine/trans for (hopefully) last time Fabricate radiator mount and ducting Mount and plumb radiator Plumb fuel line That's starting to get down into the last bits before first fire up. I'll also need to fabricate exhaust at some point, but it'll survive running an open header for just getting it back on the ground. With any luck I hope to have it close to first start by end of August. Will depend on how many side quests I have to also complete.

Note that this applies to my 1972 V8 240z which uses a Motor Sports Auto (MSA) / Jags That Run (JTR) style hood release bracket. The stock hood release cable tends to fail with age. If the cable breaks you will be very sad. So I decided to replace my failing hood release cable with a Lokar Hood Release Cable kit. I installed the hood release handle where the driver’s side vent control was mounted. The vent control mounting bracket is rigid and lines up the hood release cable with the stock hole in the firewall. The vent control was moved to the left of the Lokar hood release lever and bolted to the underside of the dash. Installation required making two brackets from 2” x 2” x 1/8” aluminum angle one for each end of the cable. The release arm on the stock hood latch release mechanism required modification because the Lokar cable stop would not fit into the stock cable connection. I removed the stock cable connector on the release arm and replaced it with a spare Lokar throttle cable end and ball pivot. This allows the attachment point on the lever arm to swivel as the release arm moves to release the hood latch. Summit p/n: Lokar Hood Release Cable Kits HR-1100U $129.95 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-hr1100u Summit p/n: Lokar Cable Fittings WCA-1034 $33.95 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-wca-1034

Good post! I love the annotated pictures.

Replacement Door Mirrors for a 1972 240z Nissan The old MSA door mirrors fell apart and I wanted to find a better replacement. After doing some research I found that GM part #987460 refers to the classic chrome outside rearview door mirror used on 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevrolet passenger cars would be a good fit. I found a kit that provides both left and right mirrors at United Pacific: Item No.110745 Exterior Mirror Bundle for 1955-1957 Chevy Passenger Car (Pair) which includes: · Polished stainless steel mirror head & chrome plated arm with identical design as original. · Convex mirror with wide angle optics for R/H side. https://classic.upauto.com/exterior-mirror-bundle-for-1955-1957-chevy-passenger-car-pair-110745 I purchased the mirror kit at Amazon for $57.69 https://www.amazon.com/United-Pacific-110745-Exterior-Passenger/dp/B07CSM82R6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3D4VKZQDPPL45&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ji_ewCdOZDHJk5NTl-hJJNFlKNsQBt5lpAOLKHcRoK31x-GRce_gxezK_VKJFo0J9IkZHkDcZBC1uO-yqa9wAikFa3d3ppFs1Z_e9oMH7GHS0hSYXVCL3mPH2KdHlNipyinC19rlSI2bJ2OSt4dOu31VkbQgttxV3F9sjOnvlwdEzUBrH0x35XHZypqXaZKhHaGVoA8HQfe6yph6tpYjD9i1U7980UgA3v1My4M_ZeA.60nOt1lFZGTfNCnWtHJyTgcmFLSL1-4Gz3NCXbznMr0&dib_tag=se&keywords=car+side+mirrors+chrome+metal&qid=1783662323&sprefix=car+side+mirrors+chrome+metal%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666 See pictures.

Your engine bay looks very clean, nicely done! You really are flying true this project, keep up the good work!

I can’t wait how she looks out in the sun!

Radiator came in, made a mistake on sizing it, but I think it still works just fine sitting on the frame rails, thoughts? Or should it get something skinnier that fits between the frame rails. I like the built in tray on this bumper, I’ll add some ducting that just continues this on to that bottom rail and continue it past to the end of the radiator.

im not happy voltage drops on this thing. best would be new fuse box re-route wiper and lights. i might try easy re-pin cause common, dome and lights uses same source. if that fuse box connector is some how the issue. on dome light i have not much draw, swap dome and light pins on end of connector

A simple solution for door slamming problem? I finally finished my 8.8 Super Duty 8.8 Differential Conversion so I had time to handle all those small detail work. During my restoration work, I used Precision Weather Stripping to my worn OEM ones. But the Precision Weather Stripping always seemed too stiff for its job. So anyway, I gave them about 4 months but still had to slam the door to seat the weather stripping. It never got better so I know some members used late model KIA weather stripping from Amazon and good results. So I tried the Kia weather stripping. It was a lot softer but still had to slam the door. I decided to remove the Door Latch and study its operation. After removing it, I cleaned it and lubricated it with White Grease. Everthing seemed tested fine when it was out of the car. But after installation, the problem was still there. The Door Latch seemed like it still needed a little more inward movement to function properly. So with the Door Latch installed, I watched the Locking Mechanism operation. As the Door Glass was not installed yet, you have a good view of the Locking operation. this is when I noticed that one of the Latch Mounting Phillips Screws( 6mm x 1.0) was hitting the Linkage. This Screw is 4MM too long. The Easy Solution was to cut off about 4MM of the threaded end of the screw. Pic of the Long Phillips Screw-Inner Bottom Mounting Latch one. ". , Pic of "Corrected Phillips Screw" I really don't know when the Phillips Screw was mistakenly replaced with a Longer One. Owning the 240Z for 54 years, I am sure I removed the Door Latch at least 4 times. Anyway, if you are having Door Slamming Problems, check the LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS. It was a Simple Solution for me, maybe for you, too.

Have you verified your engine is actually at TDC? Your damper or timing marks could easily be off a few degrees. Enough to give you the results you're seeing. Verify TDC with a piece of aluminum rod or a piston stop in the #1 plug and then go from there.

@senna21 I would advise you (if you still have a chance now) to remove your brand new sending unit and apply some JB Water Weld or Tank Weld (or whichever preferred fuel resistant epoxy) to the inside/outside of those terminal posts. My brand new sending unit from ZCar Depot leaked. I filled up my brand new tank (also from the s30.world) and went to a car show. I had a big embarrassing fuel leak. They are sending me a replacement unit. I won't be taking any chances again and will JB weld stuff. Both posts leaked.