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  1. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  2. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  3. I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ
    1 point
  4. What kind of flares are those on the rear? I looked through the 9 pages and didn't see a brand or name.
    1 point
  5. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
    1 point
  6. [Holly Shiiittte. I have dreamed of this many times and realize your difficulties. On gear ratio, I am facing a similar problem. I have a Jerico 4 speed in the car I am building which is always 1:1 in 4th for those in the know. I am looking at multiple tire diameters but limited to 16 or smaller on rim. Smaller the better for weight. But Daytona is one of the tracks I must build for, and that is max speed whatever your car will do. So unless I can move to a 3.3 or lower gear or I will need to increase tire diameter. So I am thinking about a 26-27 tall 15" tire (think Nascar) or swapping a Ford
    1 point
  7. Here are the lights in the rear panel. We still need to polish and clear coat the outer surface. I'm confident with final fit and finish this will look beautiful and still fit the overall design story of the car.
    1 point
  8. One thing I add to these are safety washers on the outside of the rod ends on the strut. In case you need a link here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Washer-Prevent-Twelve-Through/dp/B07RB7RWMB. I think if you search around you can get a better price but it's been years since I've bought any. Cary
    1 point
  9. Awesome thank you so much!!!
    1 point
  10. I'll take a moment to reply to the tone of this comment. On HybridZ we (admins) are not suppressing feedback about vendors. What we are doing is trying to make sure a thread stays on topic so that future users will be able to use search and find good quality content that is helpful and relevant to their search. Ideally the original thread should have stayed on topic and a new thread started about vendor feedback. A link could be left in the technical thread and both discussions could happen and be more likely to be found be search in the future. Hope that helps, Cary
    1 point
  11. So here is what I ended up with on the OEM drum backing plate. Went with several 0.215 dia holes instead of one large oblong hole. I figured this was a reasonable compromise between venting, not weakening the steel too much, and doing something I had adequate tools for. When you add up the holes, it equates to a little over 2 in^2 of of passageway. Here a hoping It makes a difference! I opted not to drill/modify the AL drum since it already flexes so much at high temperatures.
    1 point
  12. That is where it should go. Everyone usually mounts the cell at deck height which never made sense to me. Then you have to separate it from passenger with a big ass box or bulkhead design. Drop it down a little and you not only lower center of gravity, but your metal cover solution becomes so simple. I like to cover the hole with an aluminum or steel plate and then put a small 10x10 or so electrical box right over the filler cap.
    1 point
  13. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
    1 point
  14. You know we have all been there when you get three similar responses to a problem within a few hours 😂 when I was young and dumb(er), I once lowered my car onto a breaker bar to loosen the tranny fill hole. I don’t have a dedicated full hole on my r180 cover (from a Subaru STI) so I drain completely then fill with a specific volume from the axle shaft hole. The spec is easy to find with a quick search online, or from any type of service manual.
    1 point
  15. I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.
    1 point
  16. Teacher perspective, and as someone satisfied with my Apex products and intend to buy more: The best lesson I ever learned from my university director was "it's not mistakes that bother me, it's complacency." Ohm, from every interaction and experience I've had with him and others, has made a consistent effort to improve products and delivery. If you're an early customer, I think it's a bit unfair to be as critical as some have been if the problem has already been mutually resolved.
    1 point
  17. almost done tuning the transmission (shift/throttle timing)... IMG_0405.MOV
    1 point
  18. I did lots of things to the car this year, but didn't feel it was necessary to update here until I had some results. The main outstanding issue with the car after Thunderhill was the cooling system. Got a TIG welder earlier this year in February and learned how to booger weld aluminum enough to start on cooling modifications. I started with building an intercooler setup. Since I'm staying with stock EFI, I wanted to add a recirculating BPV so that required the intake boot to be replaced. The factory intake box does not fit with the intercoo
    1 point
  19. Hey, I had several of yall inquire about the L28 bell housing dimensions to aid in designing of other transmission adapters. Here are the deminsions that I used to make my adapter for the L28 side. These measurements were taken by CMM from a Nissan 5 spd transmission bell housing, so they are as accurate as the factory castings can be. All the points are referenced from the center of the input shaft bearing bore. I have found the dimensions to work VERY well with my adapters. I would ask that if you use these dimensions to make any parts other then for yourself that you donate s
    0 points
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