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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/22 in Posts

  1. Slow progress. Close to finishing up the rear suspension. I keep finding things I need to clean and paint. But it is getting there. I suppose its time for the big reveal. Based on Cary's sugggestion, I am going with an external shock. Not sure I can get away with it, but its easily reversable. It was surprisingly easy to do. I used adjustable shock brackets from AA Manufacturing with a some angle iron for strength. Even easier in the front to connect to tubing. I used 1/2 threaded rod with rod ends to mock it up. I 3d printed a shock body to make sure there was clearance. I took a set of cheap Toyota MR2 struts and drilled a little hole in the bottom to drain out the oil. They are loaded in the strut tubes just for keeping geometry, no friction. The only tricky part is the motion ratio is different than the strut. Right now I am thinking Penske 7500's for the shock. They are reasonably priced, come custom valved to my parameters, have multiple lengths, and are double adjustable.
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  2. First time spraying base-clear urethane. Made lots of mistakes and have a lot of runs, but live and learn! To be fair, painting an engine bay with added stiffeners and sharp angles is tough, even for the experienced. Sprayed epoxy. Sprayed silver urethane base coat 8 hours later, followed by clear. Masked off the urethane and scuffed the overlap yo give it some “tooth” for the asphalt (3M) undercoating. All still within the epoxy cute window so it should harden rock solid. Working on prep work in the interior but it’s hot as heck out here! Stay cool my friends. IMG_8831.MOV
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  3. After 4,500 miles in two weeks, and a dozen low 10 and high 9 second passes, Jason is back home from Rocky Mountain race week, having driven the ENTIRE way and placing 3rd place in the 10.00 true street class.
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  4. Hey all. I've lurked for a while and have had a few other Z's. My last was an LT1/T56 setup. This time I am going a little weird for the swap. I bought the shell with no motor and in quasi rough shape, but was relatively rust free so I jumped on it. I initially started going with an LS, and had it installed when I thought what would make ME happy. I am a big VW guy and had a Corrado SLC before this project. I have a lot of fond memories in my Corrado so I decided to mix the best of both worlds in the S30. It will be getting a 12V AAA VR6 motor with gt35 turbo. For the transmission I am using a B5 Audi S4 01E 6 speed converted to rwd. BBS RS 16" wheels are at each corner from a Porsche 968 with wider lips in the rear. Behind the front wheels are Toyota brake caliper upgrades. The rear fenders are being widened with Ztrix fiberglass subtle setup. The interior is getting Sparco R100 seats and a Corrado dashboard with Speedhut gauges with gps speedo. This is all a work in progress, but I will be posting to my instagram account as I make any progress. I wanted to introduce myself and share what I am very glad to be building https://instagram.com/240z_idiot
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  5. With those giant rotors, you will not generate very much heat into the pad (relative of course). The Wilwood pads are surprisingly excellent for that application in street or track duty.
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  6. I try to keep up with damper technology as it has been developing rapidly over the last 10 years or so. Basically what was F1 technology 10 years ago is now available to the public. Most high end dampers still rely on some way of controlling a fluid with valves, orifices, tubes or sleeves with special features to control extreme forces. The highest end are infinitely adjustable, consistent, and repeatable over long distances. Active and semi-active systems are often banned in motorsports and are just now becoming more popular. Most modern sports cars have semi-active dampers that can be programmed for various effects and conditions. Corvettes have a very highly developed version of this. A suspension "master" spends countless hours developing the few programs that end up in the production version, up to and including sending test teams with 100's of tires to the Nuremberg Ring each year. Now that technology is available to the aftermarket. There are a few providers out there but I was really intrigued with these guys in Netherlands. https://tractivesuspension.com/ They sell a fully programmable stand alone strut with g force sensors that can be adapted to many platforms. What really shocked me was the price. $6-7000 for a full package. I know that seems expensive, but compared to high end struts (check out Motion Control strut prices) this is a total bargain. They can be programmed to fully control stiffness, roll, dive, and squat so no roll bars needed. Imagine 30+ year old car that is fully comfortable on the street, yet capable of setting lap records with a program change. Pretty much like a new Porsche or Corvette.
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  7. Since I made this thread things have changed, I changed the order to Gold mesh 15X8's and 15X9's at 0 offset. I will be using 225/45ZR15 and 245/40ZR15 tires from Hankook. Spacers are going to give me the offset I want and the poke out I desire. Thanks for the replies.
    1 point
  8. hatepotholez, I had a similar problem with new Precision Door Weatherstripping as you. I fixed it in one day and did not spent any money on the repair. I will post how I did it in my next post -V8 Z forum Gen III & IV Chev V8Z coming soon. Check it out! Toolman
    1 point
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