
calZ
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Everything posted by calZ
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Experimenting with rear spoilers
calZ replied to RebekahsZ's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Are you talking about a flat plate angled upwards, or just a horizontal extending from the back of the car? -
You might want to read the rest of the thread. I don't think he's ready for much right now.
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I've had the same dream as you for awhile. It's not really a goal at the moment, but more of a "maybe in 10 years" thing. Since these aren't very common I have a hard time finding weight info, but the one source I've found(coincidentally, the last thread you linked) says 222KG. That's hardly more than an L28. When you make the block out of aluminum you tend to save quite a bit of weight. Swap out the enormous intake manifold for ITBs and it might be a wash from the stock balance.
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If you'd like to save even more time: http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/power-steering-kit-electric
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Tires 225/45/15 or 225/50/15
calZ replied to theczechone's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
225s are just about perfect on a 9 inch wheel. On our racecar we run 225/45R15s on 15x9 wheels and the sidewalls are just a tiny bit in from vertical. They're stretched, but most definitely in the range that they improve grip and not in the "hella low stance" way. -
I get all that. I was more wondering how you get it done seemingly pretty cheaply. Is it a flat fee that's lower than I would guess, percentage of car value, friend just throws it on when he has an extra spot on the boat, etc
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Do you have some type of hookup on importing cars? I've never done it, but it seems to me the import costs would be a significant chunk of that $6k. Can you educate me on that a bit?
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I'm also silently watching. I don't have much to add other than saying really nice work and that I get happy whenever I see you've updated the thread.
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- rb25det 240z
- rota rb-r
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(and 2 more)
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71 240z rb20det fully fun slow project named candy build
calZ replied to bestlowrida's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Those looks more like flood lights than a headlight with a proper reflected housing. What does the light pattern look like? -
http://www.s1sequential.com Seems like they make them in limited production runs. They just made an announcement a week ago about a new run coming.
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I was responding to you. I've read the whole thread before, and I just read it again since your comments made me think I was missing something. Nothing seemed out of order at all to me. I agree he's now on the edge of what a group buy is, but so are other very popular threads in this section that you seem to leave alone. Why single out exlifesaver when he seems to have done a really good job while being no less active than those other threads and everyone who purchased seems to be happy? Now I'll stop cluttering the thread with irrelevant posts. Sorry exlifesaver.
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So in your hypothetical, don't both parties benefit? Isn't it pretty common on HybridZ for someone to have a link to a company that allows forum members to get a great price while making it worth the middle-man's time? This is done with gauges, wheels, etc. I don't see at all how that's not a win-win and have no idea why you are so consistently negative with many members of this board.
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Collins adapter L series to CD009 (350z) transmission
calZ replied to Nicksturboz's topic in Drivetrain
Austin, if you can make a kit that only requires wrenches to get a CD009 on the back of a L28 for ~$1k, I know I would definitely be interested. I need to replace my 5-speed anyway. -
You could also do it Laguna Seca style. Put an elbow on the back that you can change the direction of. Figure out which side the sound meter is on and point the exhaust up and away from it.
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https://zcardepot.com/interior/hood-release-cable-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html
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Can we get more info on the dash cover itself? Did the whole thing from scratch I'm assuming? How did you make the pattern and how much stretching did it require?
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'73 G-Nose 5.3/T-56 Work In Progress
calZ replied to Domesticated's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
If they're for a 1st gen Camaro like he said, then they would have to be these: http://trackspecmotorsports.com/shop-by-vehicle/camaro/first-generation-camaro-67-69/1st-generation-camaro-t1-hood-louvers.html -
Driven Daily Hillclimb 2016 Build
calZ replied to Jesse OBrien's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Did you hire a videographer to do these or did you just have a friend that likes to film? -
Borg Warner actually has a turbo match bot that you can use to size a turbo for your application. It's pretty cool and will get you in the ballpark even if you don't want a B-W turbo.
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Ok, here are the 3 parts. I'll add the part numbers for the other stuff below. Nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/94855A281 Screw: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/90272A106 Spring: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657K327 Ball: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9528K15 If the links are broken for anyone looking at this in the future, the part numbers are just the last portion of those URLs after the slash. Hopefully McMaster doesn't ever change them. The springs actually ended up being a bit light for the application, and the connection was not completely consistent. I put two bearing balls in below the spring, and that worked great. You could also just space it with whatever washer or chunk of metal you want. There's another spring option: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657k345. That might be overkill, but it would definitely maintain a connection. QuickReleaseHornPTT.zip
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First picture is all the pieces I used. It was basically a prototype that ended up working well, so I kept it. You would only need the stuff on the right of the picture since you have a horn button to fill the space in the center of the wheel. The springs and bearing balls go in the cylinders of the piece in the upper right. Balls make contact with the nubs in the quick release, and the wire ends are held to the square nuts in the other piece that is pressed on top. I think for you I would just integrate the nuts into the lower piece. Second picture is everything pressed together. Third picture is how the bottom of the hub looks with the piece inserted. Fourth pic is the assembled wheel(minus two screws). Do you know if your hub is the 2.0? If it is, I could just put one of the modified pieces together and mail it to you. I have extra pieces because the springs come in packs of 10 and the balls packs of 100. Actually, the hubs probably have all the same center bores, so it might work for any NRG quick release.
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Ah, that makes more sense. I'd still take that tradeoff if it came at a very good price. Not sure if you mind sharing what he charged or not.