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Showing results for tags 'Engine'.
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Can someone please explain the benefit of restricting the oil flow to the head/camshaft. My E88 head does not have these installed Thank you Roger
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Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Hey all, quick question that I'm having trouble finding the answer to. I'm about to fab up the engine mounts for my RB25 and I've read online somewhere sometime ago that I needed to level out the engine using the flat flange on the bottom for the oil pan. That makes sense to me, but when I try to twist the engine to be flat it pushed my transmission shifter into the passenger's side of the trans tunnel. is it better to go off of the transmission shifter and get the exactly flat or to go off of the bottom of the oil flange? Also, I know that the oil pan has a bit of an angle on it, around 3 inches deeper on one side. Is this to flatten out the bottom and the engine actually should be angled a bit? I'm hoping somebody may be able to walk out and snap a few quick photos of their setup and describe it a bit. Thanks in advance!
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I finally got the chance to take off the valve cover and check the valve lash clearances and I noticed a strange consistency with my measurements. I have measured every exhaust valve clearance to be exactly .009mm and every intake valve clearance was between .004-.006mm except for one. The one valve was too tight for the smallest feeler gauge which was .004. To measure, I used a feeler gauge to feel for the highest gauge where it could slide between the cam and the lash pad while the lobes were facing straight up. This was also done with a cold engine. Now, I know the stock clearances are .008mm and .010mm when cold, but my engine has been modified. I am unaware of the exact specs, but my camshaft (E30 Japan) says "Americam 060 1" on the end of it and the PO stated it had been bored/ported at some point. Regardless of the modifications, the clearances should be much higher than .004mm-.006mm on the intake valves, correct? The only reason my awareness has been raised is the consistency of my measurements. Could there be a reason the PO or a previous tuner to have set the intake clearances that low? Or were they likely properly set at one point, but over time have all evenly deteriorated to their current state? Edit: Car is a 1973 240z with an L24 and E88 head
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Selling a new, uninstalled Stage III engine from a project that I ended up selling. L28 Core DSI Stage III engine (roughly 3.0 Liters) DSI pistons (89mm) DSI H-beam rods L28 crank Light weight Chromoley flywheel Exedy Stage-II Clutch kit Spark Plug wires & plugs Rear Engine Plate Fuel pump block off plate Asking $6000
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Hello Team, Anyone got any recommendations on places to purchase replacement engine mounts for a 280zx? Are any engine mounts from other Nissan's or Datsun's compatible? Would appreciate any advice on this.
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Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale down in San Diego. I made the 4 hour round trip the next day and bought the Jig with the sole purpose of making the cross members for the community. I am one guy with a Jig and the resources to REPRODUCE these cross members Just as John designed! These will be MADE TO ORDER and will be low production numbers to insure a QUALITY product. So Just as I came across John you have now come across me. They will come as raw metal for ease of welding with the original instructions. YES these can be bolted in by drilling holes through the rails and cross member. Price $350 a unit plus shipping to your door step. Happy building! These are made for OEM 2jzgte engine mounts. People have used These for 1jzgte,vvti,GE swaps but may of had to swap out mounts. The 4bolt pattern is the same however the mount brackets vary. Message me for orders. Instagram----- Mike321go Facebook----- Mike Garcia
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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Whenever I switch my Z into reverse or try to use my turn signal it will kill the engine, as a result it has become nearly undrivable. Has anyone else ever had this problem? If so, please include your solution. Thank you.
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I'm looking for a local machine shop in the Dallas / Fort Worth area (ideally, but would be willing to travel, if necessary). I want to build my stroker bottom end, and my free time is limited. I'd like to have my F54 block bored, balance crankshaft, port and polish P90 head, etc. I'd like to know if either of my available F54 blocks can support an 89mm bore. Is there anybody nearby that still work on the L28's?
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Into a S30 or S130, auto or manual, I'm always thinking circuit racing so a four is good to get the weight back for 50/50 weight distribution or even some rear bias to help get the power down out of corners. Guess that the 4 would be lighter than the L6 too, lighter is good in these old flexy chassis and of course helps power to weight. Have not researched the power these 4's are making but I'm guessing 'sufficient'. Working on another race car at the moment but do have a nice 2+0 280ZX roller sitting there doing nothing;. Hmmmm.
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This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366 -
Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
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I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one problem and end up with 10 new ones. 20180719_194207.mp4
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I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?
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Hey Guys, After 3years of racing the OverkillZ life got in the way. new house,new jobs, other cars, Moved to SOCAL, ect ect... But I am back getting the car back together with a lot of upgrades. Besides that I came into the opportunity to buy Johns old JIG used to make the Betamotorsports 2jz/1jz Cross member!!!! I was planning to buy it years ago before is passing however DevilZ got to it first. Now I have it and the ability to PRODUCE THEM. I can make them to order at $350 a unit. They will come with all the original instructions and built on the original jig just as John did.
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Good morning from the hurricane capital of America. I have often read the postings on the site and found them interesting and helpful. By the way I am a NEWBIE to the site but not to S30 cars. I have spent many years crawling around them and know them quite intimately, as do most of you. So I look forward to reading more as I complete restoration on #6333. But for now I am in search of air filters for my 47mm SK/OER carbs. TATSUMI out of Japan stocks them but someone in America does also but my smart device out started me and I by accidentally erased all my links during a ROUTINE purging of my tablets search history. K&N stocks them but a GOOGLE search has not rendered any results. I would appreciate any assistance. I will slowly begin to build an album to chronicle the rest of the restoration but here is an appetizer!
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Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
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Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
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My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
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So I have a 76 280Z 2+2 with a rough idle when cold. It also doesn't really like starting from cold. Have to give it gas to get it going. Once it heats up it is fine. But here is the kicker, on cold idle it seems to suck air up the tail pipe, which stops when it warms up. I held a lighter up to the tailpipe and watched the flame go up the tail pipe. It also smells like it is running rich, with a glorious off throttle backfire and some black smoke. Timing is good, fuel system has been pretty much completely replaced, compression was also checked, all 6 cylinders right around 135-150, not great but decent. I am wondering if it could be a valve lash issue? Not sure what else to check.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
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Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
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Looking for one in running condition, intake and exhaust headers not necessary. A good-quality long block is acceptable also. I'm in Arizona and willing to drive up to 1 state away to pick up, but we could figure out shipping from anywhere else also.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake.
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