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Showing results for tags 'suspension'.
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The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racin
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I have found a few threads on this issue, but no real resolution. The front sits noticeably higher (over 1") after the installation... it appears the front didn't even drop a millimeter from stock. Springs: Eibach Lowering Kit Shocks: KYB Checks: 6305.001 springs are on the front. 6305.202 springs are on the rear. The label and part number are right-side up so you can read them. The springs are seated properly. The control arm bolts/nuts were tightened with the load of the car (not on jack stands). Does anyone have a clue as to why the front did not lower? Seems -
After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a- 78 replies
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hey guys I have a '83 280zx pretty much stock everything except for the engine stuff (turbo and intercooler). My car drives like a bowl off jello, and I wanted to buy new shocks and springs. and I'm cheap, so no super cool expensive coilover sets (beside the car doesn't run well, so I won't shell out money on a car that, after 4 years of screwing around in, still won't run well) and I don't want a car that too low for very daily driving. I found out that KYB shocks are everywhere, there is some Gabriels as well on some sites. so I guess, for basic, stock like p
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I am in the research phase of my 280z build and have been going back and forth between the Arizona Z Car Track Pack and Techno Toy Tunings Packages that match ACZs offerings. The overall plan is the build my suspension and brakes to be strong and able to do anything I throw at it, whether it’s auto cross, track days or daily driving. I will be going with a LY6/T56/R200 drivetrain. I know there are threads that talk about both techno toy and AZC but I haven’t seen any definitive pros or cons to either kit and I would love to know if anyone else has gone through this and wher -
The springs: https://zcardepot.com/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z?variant=21384265269361 I'm planning on installing new springs and struts and I've found this option. I don't race my car and my suspension is totally stock so far, I feel my springs and struts are fine I'm just looking to lower it. I want a 1.5 or 2" drop, I like that the springs I've linked seem linear and not progressive. They don't give much of a description of who makes these springs or where they come from though. Has anyone used them? Would you recommend the
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I couldn't be any happier to announce that I have my 1978 Datsun 280z back in my possession after all these years. Way back when I was only eighteen years old, I had an amazing cousin that introduced me to Datsun's and specifically the S30 Series. At the time he owed a couple Z's. One with an LS swap and the other with a turbo kit. Once I experienced the awesomeness that these vehicles could put out, I was hooked! Just like that, I made my mind up that I had to have one. With my cousins help of course, we were able to pick up my 280z fairly quick. Happy to say that I got in a good couple years
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Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover. I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently. I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise. Please see linked video. Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it. As you can see by the sharpie ma -
I'm picking up my 280zx with a manual trans and 90,000 miles. It needs brake lins but thats it acording to the owner. I plan on making this a project car and one day a weekend car. I'm not looking the get a ton of power out of it but I do want to make it look nice. I'm a good craftsman and fabricator in my opinion so I plan on making a lot of stuff in house. I want to lower it a good bit, give it some offset wheels and fender flares, and paint it all on a budget plus spruce up the inside. I can make the flares no problem but I'm not sure how im going to do the suspention. $900 coilovers are aw -
As I've mentioned briefly here before, I'm nearing completion of my electric conversion on a 1977 280Z. The conversion has resulted in a significant change to the car's weight balance, and I need advice on suspension adjustments to go along with this. In lieu of the ~500 lbs L28, there is now a 120 lbs electric motor: And where the spare tire well/gas tank once was, there is ~300 lbs of batteries and battery housing: As a result, the ride height is quite high up front: The rear looks fine to me though: This car will be a daily -
hello everyone I'm new to this forum and was wondering what kind of setup everyone is using for ungraded suspension parts on their 280ZXs? i haven't had much luck finding anything in terms of struts/ coilovers that work, and am curious as to what everyone has done
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Before I order new, just wanted to see if anyone had a set they're not using. Thanks in advance!
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Hello, im new here and was looking for racing/track suspension and chassis almost everywhere and didnt find it. So i have got a few questions. 1. Does 280z suspension and chassis fit into 280zx? 2. From what company can i buy suspension and chassis ? (In Europe if possible if not its ok) 3.Does 300zx brakes fit in 280zx? Datsun 280zx 2+2 1979 2.8l 5speed manual. Hope You guys will help me! -
Wheel broke off when I was driving cause my studs weren’t torqued probably haven’t driven my z in months and I’m itching to drive my z again need front wheel hub for the cheap I think 280z ones fit as well. Preferably people in Cali willing to pick up if you live close! Someone inbetween la or sd that has one!!
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Hey guys, I am very unhappy with the way the eibach progressive springs and kyb shocks ride. I feel the car is bobbing around and having a hard time loading the suspension into slightly more aggressive corners. I am in the process of ordering some BC Coilovers for my 280 (1JZ, poly bushings , 245/40R17, 17x9 and ZG flares(presently its on blocks and being assembled). The car will be primarily a daily driver in the spring, summer, fall with the odd autocross day. I don't want to slam it, making it difficult to navigate city streets or sore after driving for an hour l -
Hey all, Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said: Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened s -
I've got a 1975 280z with a stock suspension. This is the only Z I've ever driven so I can't really compare it to anything but I feel like the ride is pretty rough. I can feel every tiny imperfection in the road and if I hit any kind of hole or bump at a good speed it feels pretty bad. It gets very floaty on the freeway. I've got it on 215/55r16 tires. I don't race it or anything so it's just for normal street driving. I looked around at a bunch of other forums and from what I read it looks like Eibach Pro Spring Kits rated at 150lb in the front and 175lb in the rear is what people are s
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Is there an advantage to weld in camber plates? Trying to figure out what route to take. The drill and bolt method seems legit and i could always make a small plate to go on the underside to help stiffen the top the tower. Im guessing the weld in plates are stout.
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Info: 1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD Problem: First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc.. I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime. Please help! I attached pictures of the part. -
Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe
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Fellow Enthuziazts... I'm in the process of resto-modding my 73 240z. I purchased the AZC coil overs, they are very nice. The car is in the process of being painted, and I'm redoing the suspension myself. I've had just about every part of the car acid stripped, and i'm ready to assemble the suspension. Want to weld, paint, assemble, and send to shop for installation on the body. Unfortunately, i really can't mock up the rear coil-over setup with body, because it's all completely apart. This is just a street car, maybe the occasional autocross. I'll probably get some 235/40 17
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hey guys, I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar.. I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks, I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy. Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedba
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Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it
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Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a
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My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mech
