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Showing results for tags 'Turbo'.
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hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
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Hello friends. I am stuck. I have my stock T3 turbo on my l28et on 12lbs of boost. I have water injection and I always use 91 gas. I'm about a month away from getting Megasquirt 2 installed in my car and tuning it, along with a new FPR, 440cc injectors, a Pallnet fuel rail, and a T3/T4 turbo. The last thing I want is engine detonation right before I get this thing in its final stages for tuning. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a sexy, functioning intercooler that can handle 300-400 hp and that can be installed front mounted in an S130, I'd really appreciate it. I'm looking to piece together my own kit here. If you know of a decent kit for under 400 that'd be great but if not, no worries. I've seen the CXRacing ones and I just can't drop 500 for an intercooler and piping. Gotta save for Megasquirt and the t3/t4. I'm only 16 and I'm working 40 hours a week to get this shit done. Thanks for your help guys.
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I had this epiphany last night about a Mercedes-Datsun hybrid. I'm a big fan of the Merc turbo diesel engines and how little money you can throw into them for an unhuman amount of torque. Last night I had no idea this is actually a somewhat popular swap and have seen some info on it but is a kinda few and far between so I'm looking to get a Merc diesel thread started. My local pull a part has a few cars that might actually provide me with the OM603 or preferably an OM606 TD engine. My dads job is servicing large Cummins engines on logging equipment so I have a HX40 turbo sitting by on standby I'm waiting to apply to something. For a transmission I've learned that apparently a 300ZXT manual transmission will go up to it but I am quite skeptical about that. But who knows. Obviously engine/trans mounts will be custom made and fuel system doesn't really worry me all that much wiring however is keeping me racking my brain but I'm not too discouraged I've seen crazier swaps out there. Any information you have would help out a ton. Especially if you know of a way to contact the guy with the running OM606 240z that would be incredible. As always thanks in advance- Grayson!
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First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4576768231.html This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance! Purchase
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Hello Everyone! My name is Tate, I'm 16 years old, and this my 1983 S130 Turbo! I purchased the car 6 months ago with my own money that I had saved up from my job at a local pizza parlor. I saw the Z on craigslist for $2k and I had to get it. When I first got it...I knew nothing about how a car worked or what the hell a turbo was. The previous owner had installed an AEM Methanol Injection Kit (which I'm currently running water in...I know my turbo thanks me for that.) He also had installed an AEM Boost Controller with the setting set to 14psi on the stock Garret AiResearch T3 Turbo. I haven't changed it since I bought the car and I don't plan to. I know I don't have an intercooler yet and that I'm still on stock injectors...all very bad things to do with a high Psi setting on a stock turbo but that will all change soon. I actually just purchased an intercooler kit from CXR Racing. The best part about this car...only 75k orginal miles. I have done all the body work and painting myself on this car, as well as putting on the new wheels and tires and other upgrades. I have purchased everything myself and I can't wait to get her up to the high 300 range of whp...that is, if the Xenon S130 L28ET guide isn't lying to me (; I'm very proud of myself and this Z is nowhere near done...so please stay tuned and follow my progress! Here is what the Z first looked like when I bought it...God, I don't even know how I thought that ugly ass wing and those turbo decals were attractive... I still have this Center Tail Light panel by the way if anyone wants it...I know they are pretty rare. The first modification I did was rip out all the ugly 80's maroon interior and respray everything gloss black because #racecar Then I took off that ugly wing that worked better as a lunch table and order a custom JDM Plate Yeah....maybe I should move that JDM Plate to the front... But first...let me paint my tailights black... Here are some front shots I took... My buddy who has an R8 met up with me... Then one day...it dawned on me. I HATE THIS UGLY FADED 80's RED. LET'S MAKE THIS CAR RATTY. SO I DID. First...I resprayed the whole thing in primer grey... It was better...but I still wasn't loving it. My wheel and tire choice bothered me. It didn't scream agressive...it whispered "please don't hurt me." Not my thing. YES I KNOW THEY ARE EPSILONS BUT THEY WERE SO HORRIBLY CURBED FROM THE PREVIOUS OWNER I HATED THEM ANYWAY. So I traded with my buddy for some nice 'hipari' 195/55 tires and some pretty sweet steelies. Mmmmm....MUCH BETTER. Group Photo with me and my JDM Buddies... Fixed the JDM Plate by the way...(: It still wasn't doing it for me though...something was missing. I had seen something on, HybridZ...at least I think was HybridZ...where some dude with an s130 bought a Victory Spoiler for an s30 and put it on there...it looked pretty good and he said it fit fine. Good enough for me. SO I went down to MSA and demanded that they sell me an s30 Victory Spoiler...however to my dissapointment they were out. SO I got a BRE one instead. The salesman at MSA said "Are you sure you know what you're doing kid?" And I said "No but I saw it on HybridZ so, I'm sure I can figure it out." AND BAM IT LOOKS SO GOOD. Then I decided...hmmm...I've had it primed for the longest time...maybe I should try painting it black myself... Yeah...bad idea. You can't tell in the photo but I did a really shitty job. So I decided to do what any 16 year old boy would do...rat it out again. The new paint you're about to see is heavily inspired by Gage Kerr's 280z. That thing is so flipping sweet... Then I got my tsurikawa chain...a real one from Japan...because honestly, I love shakotan and bosozoku culture. I also got this sweet windshield banner made that says "party gang" in Japanese. It is the name of the car club that me and my friends created. Got my Crown Royal shift boot... GALLARDO And this is the most recent photo I have of her...taken today...stay tuned for more progress! Love it or hate it...I really don't care. This is my Z and I love what I've done to it!
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I am building an engine on the side and looking for an engine to drop in for now. I am open minded for any types of L6 engine weather it be Turbo, Stroker, Carb, EFI, Stock. I want something to drop in a day and start it up. complete swap and running please. PM me what you got and how much you want for it.
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So I just finished up swapping an 81 l28et into my 76 280z. Runs and drives but far from a smooth running car due to only having a downpipe haha. Using the n42 intake seemed like a good idea at first but I really didnt study up enough on it. Problem number one: the turbo blocks where the crankcase vent goes into the manifold. My solution to this problem was to just run it back into the J pipe, figured this was pretty much the same thing as before just without the little check valve and now it is behind the throttle. Problem number two: What to do with the other line I had running from the T connector, that was connected to the vent on the valve cover and airflow regulator, back to the j pipe. I ended up capping it off and didnt really see any change in performance. I guess my question here is how important is the airflow through everything? Does the air regulator actually need to be connected before and after the throttle? I think this will be much easier to diagnose after I get an exhaust on the car, but for now its just running poorly.
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Hi all, I have a 1977 280z with a 1982 rebuilt L28ET swap. I'm working on my tune, but I think I have vapor lock. symptoms I'm experiencing are: stalling at higher temperatures (> 180), even while idle cannot hot start even with prime pulse cycling cannot hot start even with a flood clear crank even when hot start works (after cool down) engine slowly stumbles and comes to life gradually and stalls out soon (3-5 minutes) I have tried clearing the line before cranking. Would love to find some tips to manage the heat or provide a couple of places I need to start with. I checked my fuel lines for leaks, and checked hte o ring pressure gauge (negligible drop in pressure after ~1 hour). However, when I came back to check the fuel pressure after an hour I noticed the fuel rail is still warm. Is that normal? http://imgur.com/a/ayrDw <------- engine bay pics. Car specs: L28ET with stock turbo MegaSquirt n Spark Extra EFI (fully programmable) Turbonetics (I think) T3/T04B turbocharger (internal wastegate) 260z intake manifold (no EGR) Intercooler with 2.5" aluminum piping Griffin aluminum radiator 16" electric fan Aeromotive Fuel Filter Russel fuel filter at pump 255LPH Walbro Fuel Pump MSD Blaster Coil 440cc Supra injectors (flow tested) JSK O-ring Fuel Rail Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
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Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
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I'm looking to get the following electronics from an '82-'83 ZX turbo: - Wiring harness - ECU Also need a driveshaft from a manual '82-'83 ZX turbo that has the BW T5 transmission. Located in Everett, WA. A bit north of Seattle. Hoping to get the electronics for $150 or less and the driveshaft for under $100. Doing an L28ET swap into a '76 S30 so if you've got anything else that you think I might be interested in feel free to shoot me a pm. - Brandon
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I need to either bend my wastegate rod 15mm or come up with a solution to make it work. My new turbo elbow relocated the flapper arm location and it's off 15mm. Now the wastegate arm is at a small angle and it won't open properly. Apparently they need to be damn straight. I can't move the wastegate anywhere so this is my only option. I know they are $50 online but I'm looking for a cheap garage fix. Anybody have experience bending the arms? Should I heat it or try to bend it cold? Option #2
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From the album: New Parts
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I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy -
Today while doing some basic maintenance i noticed that my car has what appears to be a NA l28e distributor. Now I have a 1977 280Z with a l28et swap in it running Megasquirt 1 v3. The previous owner somehow connected the distributor to megasquirt. How big of a deal that is? The car runs but not that good. Since its a NA do I adjust the timing by twisting it. Should I replace it with a Turbo distributor?
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Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD -
Does this look right or is it a tooth off?
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I'm looking for the aftermarket center piece panel that goes between the tail lights on the 280ZX. To be specific the 82-83 years models with the black stripes/bars that goes across the lens. Also known as the third brake light or center tail light. Has "280ZX" written on the lower red lens. I've got one that got hit by a smaller truck the other day, so the top amber lens got crushed.... And also I'm missing the wiring. But I guess no one has the lens and wiring only for sale, so I'm looking for the whole thing! PM me. Thanks!
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Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T3-T4-T04E-Universal-Turbo-Charger-Kit-WASTEGATE-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-/390750137211 comes with t3/4 turbo, an intercooler, some piping, a waste gate, and some other goodies…. Im mainly interested in it because it seems to be decently comprehensive and cheap… on the other hand I'm skeptical of it for the same reason…. i know the intercooler will be crap but I'm probably only going to be running 10psi or so, so i don't need the best of the best but what do you guys think about the turbo and the other parts? and in general opinions of ebay things like this? -thanks -
Scoping the interwebs for some information on my new Suzuki F6A Turbo, I ran across a neat replacement distributor which looks head and shoulders above the conventional Mallory Replacement. It's programmable if you want it to be... There's a bunch of YouTube Videos showing it on FairladyZ's and etc... Some nice video showing the old Hitachi Distributor it replaced, and if you understand Japanese, probably some nice technical discussion as well. Sourced from The Netherlands, check it out, jump around the website they have distributors for most anything out there. Flying Magnet by the look of it. If someone NEEDS to keep the vintage distributor look, IMO this is loads better than a Unilite! http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html Looks like Paradise Parts is the US Distributor... Paradise Parts tel: 440-668-8164 sales@123ignitionusa.com www.123ignitionUSA.com
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Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3
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Hello all, I'm a long time lurker here and am having issues with my fresh (600miles) rebuild. The engine is an 83 L28ET, using MS1 V3.0 with spark control, Holset HE351 turbo, mild turbo regrind cam, forged pistons (~8.5 to 1 CR). I did a WOT throttle run to redline testing a higher boost setting while datalogging, near redline (6k in my case) the car sputtered, missed, and backfired badly. I got off the throttle, coasted to a stop, engine is dead. Cranked it back up, only ran while applying throttle. Still backfiring and sputtering, I pulled over and got the car towed home. Removed spark plugs, verified even compression in all cylinders ~120PSI. Verified static timing, verified fuel pressure, plugs are clean and not fouled. I had a helper start the car and hold the throttle while I watched with a timing gun - the car is now firing 1 at ~33 deg BTDC. I then checked the distributor shaft - it looks slightly off, but not a huge discrepancy. I then rotated the dizzy to "account" for the extra timing and get it back to 20 deg BTDC. Car idles without throttle input now, but is still running like a pig, stutters, doesn't want to rev, etc. I decided to not risk any possible damage and starting documenting everything. Valve cover is now off, I've attached pics of the cam position and the hash mark, the harmonic damper's position relative to TDC, and also a pic of the distributor rotor and the shaft tang below. After plenty of searching, the only thing I can come up with is the oil pump drive gear has slipped several degrees, but that doesn't account for why the car still runs bad even after i artificially fixed the timing by retarding the distributor position. My next step is brand new fresh plugs, perhaps a new fuel filter to eliminate that possibility (car is getting 35 PSI at idle, but who knows might not have enough to run more?) Any ideas guys? And I apologize in advance if I've overlooked anything obvious... I'm naturally very worried and easily may have skipped over something. Also, please let me know if you need me to take pictures of anything else. Thanks!
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It's for a Turbo conversion
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I am looking for a used aftermarket down pipe for a l28et specifically for an S30 by MSA.
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Like the title says need z31 300zx turbo OR NA let me know if you have one!! Im in San Diego CA, willing to pay for shipping if the price is right.
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no longer need at this time Had to replace cracked jeep windshield thanks
