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Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.

Three weeks until I'm home and properly working on the car before a long road trip. I've been creating a detailed list on some Google notes of everything I hope to accomplish. I'll update once I truly get to it, but for now just wanted to share my excitement for my new brakes. Was in Utah about two weeks ago for a handful of days for a music conference and my brother was kind enough to let me borrow his truck to drive up to Logan just for one evening to have a quick dinner with the siblings up there and I took a quick trip to my folks' place late in the evening and opened up some of the parts to keep my motivation haha. Also had a big box of new seals from Resurrected Classics. They were kind enough to give me a steep discount on their weatherstripping kit when I asked if I could get it without the door seals since I had already purchased the S30 world seals before they released their kit. Looks like they were kind enough to give me the discount and kept the door seals anyway! I'll be making a thorough comparison of it against the Precision kit I have, mostly to see if it's truly far better for some of the worst fitting parts.

Went out for some Auto-x this weekend, and had a proper blast. Highly recommended for anyone here who still hasn't gone to try it. Enjoy a slow lap, some V8 noises and straight cut gearbox whine. I have a handful of things to think about and address moving forward, but overall I'm very happy with where this sits. Next up is OnGrid at the Ridge in late July for more testing, and maybe, just maaaaybe a little redemption.

Good progress over the long weekend. Paint, bondo and fiberglass is mostly a waiting game which is pretty annoying. Got the duct glued together and painted so it looks like something. Trimmed it up a little and we are in great shape! The holes in the hood are a little bit large, but that's ok, and will likely get solved with a new hood (fiberglass) or something on top. Also got the transition piece painted which is exciting! This will help blend the splitter into the air dam, and will get taped onto the splitter once I put some trim on top of it. Need to get to work on the new intake pipe as well, going to put the filter over near the wheel for now. In the future, I'll flip the manifold and pull air from the cowl/wiper box area, but that's a bigger lift in terms of fabrication. Can't tell you how excited I am to have a metal fabrication project after 10 months of composites.

Meh, he's a paid supporter of the site. I figured I'll give him his moneys worth

I have two heads in stock as I type this so the head can actually be purchased. I can't help that you can't afford it. That's a feature not a bug. For the very beginning my goal was to provide the components so that talented engine builders could make the decisions on the types of components they wanted to use. Based on what I've seen and taking the pricing of the relatively simple L6 head as the baseline I highly doubt it. I'm not really sure what I did to put a burr under your saddle but you remind me of the guy that starts a fight in the line to get into the club because he can't afford the cover charge. Just get out of line and go somewhere else.

I started typing a number of snarky responses and have settled on Wow what a shitty thing to say.

3 years later... took ages to find a good painter willing to take on the project. These days insurance jobs with small panel fixes seem to be more profitable. Luckily I found someone willing to do it in the summer months of this year while the insurance workload is reduced. Prepping... Overall quite happy with the result. Couldn't contain myself and started puzzling together the undercarriage the first chance I got. Pulled lines in the trans tunnel and assembled the suspension component. On the wheel first the first time since 2017!

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

He's saying although we are launching a DOHC head in 2024 we readily admit it will be pale in comparison the mighty KN20 from Datsunworks. At least that's what I'm hearing.

well old story , but MAG58 was right, mercedes M104 head is possible on a datsun L28 stroked , build is not over but we will see what happens soon bye bye Didier

**UPDATE Went to court yesterday and basically played dumb. Told the judge that "I went to the state ref and he told me since the car is so old that he couldn't do anything to certify it. So how do I go about taking car of this ticket. The vehicle is a pre smog vehicle so I've never had to SMOG it" The judge said "Ok so what Im going to do here is dismiss the case cuz it seems like your car doesn't qualify for an inspection. Sorry about the inconvenience Mr. Soto" I tried to play it cool but I was so happy. After reading all the horror stories from other people about having to revert to stock and all that I was lucky I guess Hope this thread helps someone going through something similar

Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team

Some of their stuff is good and some is hot garbage. Max the owner doesn't stand behind his product and has a tendency to try and blame "modifications" to your car as the reason. I have a lengthly (4 page) post on classic z car about my problems with his door assemblies. Resurrected Classics door problems I have their door weather strips and their fuel filler neck and the are excellent. My advice is no matter what you buy test fit as soon as it arrives and go from there. The doors were so bad that I ended up not using them. Max refuses to refund my money so I make sure to take the time to tell people about my experience. Do not trust what he says as he says whatever he needs to to get out of doing the right thing. Caveat Emptor with this guy for sure.

You should really just post on FB because they love trolls and useless posting there

I track my Ford powered 260Z. My personal experience is that transmission gearing is extremely important to getting the most fun on the track. In Florida, you will most likely be doing track days at Daytona and Sebring. Both tracks have very fast sections. Before doing track days, I autocrossed the car. In autocross, you only really need second gear if you have the right differential / tire height. I used Hoosier 275/35-15 tires and have a 3.36 rear end. With a 1.94 second gear in a T-5 and 6,500 rpm, 2nd gear was good for 73 mph. When I started doing track days, I needed all the gears. I had replaced the stock 1st through 4th with G-Force gears and shafts, but fifth gear was still stock. With that set-up, these were my gear ratios. 1st 2.95:1 2nd 1.94:1 3rd 1.33:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.59:1 Worked great until I needed 5th gear. that big a drop absolutely killed the fun (no acceleration in 5th). After my first time a Daytona, I changed 5th gear to 0.81:1. The .81 gear absolutely transformed the car. Now 5th gear is warp drive. The transmission that you show probably doesn't have a good selection of gear ratios, and probably won't hold much power. If it were me, I would get the new TKX with the close ratio rears. That transmission will handle the power and maximize you fun on track. If I didn't already have so much invested in my T5, I would get a TKX. This is the TKX I would get: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TREMEC-TCET18084-TKX-Close-Ratio-5-Speed-Ford-Manual-Transmission,452007.html?srsltid=AfmBOoq-x1paVSDoNvgI38myLy79UBWXzZFW-QeQ4bK1_vWnSHM7bEEJ Gear Ratios 1st - 2.87, 2nd - 1.89, 3rd - 1.28, 4th - 1.00, 5th - 0.81

For a street car I think the rails make sense. For a race car that has a cage perhaps not. For a similar amount of weight you can triangulate the cage with tubing on top of the floor that extends to the suspension pickup points.

So.......it's been 7 years since my last post. The car basically sat in that drive way for a few years then pushed it in the garage for another4 years where the mice got to it. The gas in the tank and lines went to shit. I replaced the fuel pump and got it kind of running again. Obviously having the car sit outside for so long it pretty much ruined everything in the fuel system. This is where a project goes to die .....you lose interest and end up selling for cheap because it doesn't run. Well ......not this time. Last year the house where I was storing it had to be sold so I needed to find a home for it while getting it road worth again. My best friend who lives in Rochester, NY (I'm in Massachusetts) told me to trailer it to his place and we can work on it together. I know that the carbs need to get rebuilt so I decided to send them to Kyusha House. Here is the before pictures. And after Taka's absolutely amazing work.....

Here comes the Project thread that I should've started when I picked up the car in 2021...... Firstly, I'd like to thank the person who has been the biggest help with this car, and who has ended up being one of my best friends, Andrew Mielke (who owns Milkfab Engineering). Without him the car would not be where it is today! His hybridz profile (check out his z) also shameless plug for his business: MilkFab Engineering Z acquisition: I had always wanted an s30 after growing up hearing my dad tell stories about how much he loved the gold 240z he had when him and my mom were dating. Any time we would see them at car shows or out and about i'd be drooling over them. When I started dating my now wife, I noticed a copper colored Z sticking out of a storage building on the road they lived on. Her and her family started jokingly calling it 'my car' due to me staring at it every time we'd drive past. Fast forward 3 years from then, we were married and looking for a house. She gave me a call because as she was driving to her parents house she saw the car outside and they were working on it, asked me if she should stop by and ask about it. I said 'yeah' never expecting it was actually for sale, and when they told her it was and priced it I was super surprised. This was in early 2021 when Z prices were going up dramatically, and she knew that. I told her we shouldn't get it, that it would be unwise since we needed the money for a house down payment, we had no place to put it, etc. BUT, she made me buy it, saying 'You never know if the prices are gonna keep spiking and you never be able to get one....'. So, we bought it, my parents drove over two hours to come pick it up and take it to their house where I could work on it/store it until we had our own place. My wife is a nurse and worked weekends for a while, which meant I spent many a saturday getting up at 5am, heading to my parents, working all day, then driving back in time for dinner. Over the course of 2021 I got the car 'ready' to come home, and we bought a house for it to come home to. The short of it: Where we started (There is probably more than this I'm currently not remembering) L28ET with no E or T round top su carbs lots of electrical gremlins from previous owner cutting random stuff to try and get the car running Radiator support bent from car being wrecked nasty gas tank Where we are now: Frame straightened L28ET with the E and T many fewer electrical gremlins cleaned gas tank coilovers proper race bucket seat (passenger still gets to bounce around in a nb miata seat lol) More posts to come with some build processes, pictures, stories, and more general nonsense.

New to the forum but I wanted to make a summary of my build status/plans for my 1982 280zx. I got the car with 150k miles 7 years ago in a straight up trade for a Kawasaki Ninja 250 (crazy, I know). I was in high school/college for most of that time so my major upgrades had to wait until I got my own garage 2 years ago. Overall goal is an aggressive (~350hp) restomod that I can take to the track occasionally. I've been recording my build progress but only recently went back to edit/upload all of the videos. If you're interested in following along, subscribe to my YouTube! I'll be posting videos every 2 weeks until I'm all caught up on footage. https://www.youtube.com/@engiandesign 2018 (One year after I got the car) January 2023 Engine Bay April 2024 Engine Bay Stripped, and Painted May 2024 Engine Rebuilt July 2024 Engine Bay Mostly Complete Current Mods: Fully rebuilt L28ET Rings, bearings, studs Stock internals Valve job with new valves and seals Cometic MLS head gasket Cam sprocket and timing chain Port and polished head High volume oil pump Schneider stage 2 cam regrind with matching springs, retainers, lash pads and resurfaced rockers Ported exhaust manifold with custom external wastegate piping Tial MVS 38mm wastegate Borg warner S257 SX-e T4 7670 CXRacing Intercooler Kit Mishimoto 25 row oil cooler Mishimoto catch can Champion 3 core radiator FF Dynamics dual electric cooling fans 3.5" cold air intake 240sx 50mm throttle body Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator Upgraded 100 Amp alternator Pallnet fuel rail 1000cc Bosch EV6 injectors Megasquirt MS3x kit from Godzilla Raceworks TSP high flow fuel pump All new glowshift gauges (9 total) CXRacing 3" stainless exhaust modified with X-Force Varex valved muffler Front/rear sway bars 280z style aftermarket air dam Louvers New carpet 4 Infinity 6x9 midrange speakers with 10" Pioneer sub Future Mods Multi-spark ignition CD009 transmission swap Wilwood big brake kit Custom front grill Side skirts Rear diffuser Duck bill spoiler Fender flares Coilovers Rims/tires Seats I'm sure I'm forgetting something on this list but that's pretty much everything. I got it running in July and after a few months of dialing everything in, its finally running great! I'm currently running 9lb of boost on a very conservative tune but it still rips. Luckily my work has a chassis dyno and some very experienced tuners which should help unlock a lot more power. This winter I plan to focus on body work/aesthetics along with rims/tires/suspension. This is my first project car so I welcome any feedback or suggestions, especially related to future mods. Make sure to subscribe to my YouTube for more updates!

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

Bumping zboi's thread so he can continue his contributions to the community. Let's see an update.

My opinion: Flares because your tires are fat and need room = cool. Skinny tires that should fit stock but spaced way out anyway = not cool. It's in the same vein as camber to me. Negative camber for better handling? Awesome. Crazy negative camber because you want people to know how much camber you have? Stupid.

A few notes before I get into it 1.I am rewiring my car from scratch. So I have no clue what color wires correspond to what pins, or what year switches I am using 70-78 2. I'm not using the stock taillights, I only have an off, high and low signal, all red(Think Semi trailer lights). So the way I wired stuff might be different for you 3.I feel that if you understand the concept of what I am showing below you can adapt what you have to create something similar. I am an idiot when it comes to wiring, but I got this to work for me so feel free to copy it at your own risk haha. This definitely isn't stock Hazard switch (Ignore the PinX stuff for now, That is how I am keeping track of what wire is going to what pin on the connectors I have) I see the hazard switch as the first step in how the power is routed. The switch has two different states (Noted by the vertical dashed line in the image above), on and off, each with it's own outcome. Hazards on: (Right side of above image) 5 Pins should be connected on the switch when the hazard switch is on/closed, use a multimeter to test continuity between all the pins, and note which ones are connected. One of the pins should receive 12v + from a flasher unit (I am using a PDM (Bussman31s002) to get fused 12v power, then putting that into a 3 wire flasher unit that is adjustable to set the timing of the flashes). So when I have my hazard switch on, power flows through the pdm, then into the flasher, into one of the 5 connected pins on the Haz SW, then a wire out to each of the 4 turn signal lights. This also kills all connections to the "Off" side of the switch. In my case, this disables the turn signals, and brake lights. Hazards off: (left side of above image) there are going to be two sets of two pins that are connected when the hazards are off/closed. Use a multimeter, check continuity, write it down. Feed one of the pairs with fused 12v+. The pin that is connected to the 12v+ gets a wire that is spliced into 2 different locations. Location 1 is the brake switch. Location 2 is a second Flasher unit. These two wires then come back together to feed the Turn signal switch, one flashing, one constant. When the switch is in this position, everything on the right side of the above image is no longer connected. Turn Signal Switch The Turn Signal Switch works off of two inputs 12v constant (Connected to 2 pins that should correspond with your Brake lights, and will disconnect from one of the pins if the turn signals are on in that direction) and 12v flashing (Connected to either the front left and rear left, front right and rear right pins, or no pins at all depending on the location of the stalk. So, for me, If my brakes are on, I get a signal to the "high" side of my tail light. WoodworkerB's website is invaluable. I recreated all of his diagrams with the corresponding wire color of my switch to use for my own project. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/ https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ Below I have a schematic of what the whole thing looks like, minus the detail of what the internals of the switches are actually doing, as well as the pinouts. (right most column is where the wire terminates, to its left is where it starts) Looks like the images are tough to read. DM me if you want a full size copy. Let me know if you have questions, or tell me that I'm wrong haha, The harness still in the basement so I would rather fix stuff now than when it is in the car. But as is the lighting system is functional, I pulled out a bunch of stuff to test it all.

Back to work on the Z Turbo car and taking a break on the NA car after finishing up the body work. Time to dry fit the rear suspension for the Turbo Car. Designed and built my own control arms and rear support years and years ago, finally fitting it up. They are 4130 seamless Chromoly that I polished welded then clear powder coated. Here are the rear control arms. I stuck with the standard urethane mounting bushing fror the inner front pivot location, but used really nice Teflon lined Aurora rod ends everywhere else. I had some 6-4 titanium bar drops and plate, so I was feeling creative and made all the big control arm bolts from the titanium Here it is all installed with the brakes and custom parking brake cable as well as custom CV axles, Diff mount and front mount This is a custom front diff mount with a double hump for the duel exhaust that will fit in very nicely. The Diff is an R-200 with 3.70 gears and a Quaife Limited slip. Can remember where the diff cover was from, but I think it was a Nismo part. I bent up my own sway bars from StressProof steel and made two point adjustment links for the end. I machined some mounts with solid Teflon busings for the sway bars, similar tot he 280z placement, front mount style The bar is sitting too low and will hit the duel exhaust pipes so I need to remake the mounts and raise the bar higher in the chassis. Thats it for now, on to the front suspension and crossmenber next. Let me know if any questions, clarifications or more pics. Busy Summer.

In the place ! some more to do but progress !

That makes all domestic orders shipped! One international to figure out still. Thanks again for everyone's patience while I got through these. I didn't anticipate it to take 6 months! Final tally on the donation amount to come as soon as I tally things up, but it will be over $1k. Funds have been flowing to Dan as needed over the last 6 months 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 24. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 25. lowrider - PAID- SHIPPED 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID- SHIPPED 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID- SHIPPED 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID- SHIPPED 35. CalZ - PAID- SHIPPED 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 80. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 81. Zetsaz - PAID- SHIPPED 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

After almost 25 years, still together.

My shirts arrived today, with the wait - huge thanks to Ryan for tackling this big job that benefits all of us and HybridZ! It was difficult to choose amongst all of the colors but very happy with my choices!

Even if 100 people commited to purchase, its still tiny small numbers vs an OEM production. Its got to be done out of passion and at least not to lose money. This is why this is such a huge acomplisment for someone like Derek, We are fortunate the passion runs deep. I cant imagine the hours of "un-billed" time

Unfortunately, it is too late. Maybe for round 6 in a couple of years Got the shirts in and will start breaking things down and shipping things out next week. This week is busy with work travel, so appreciate your patience while I get a few out each day on my lunch breaks.

They received all of the shirts without backorders and are starting on printing this afternoon!

I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.

First start up since starting the restoration. Kind of shocked she started right up on the first go. Was expecting something on the MegaJolt to need fixing, but it worked great. Went with Magnacor wires, but they made a mistake and did not fit them up with the right coil boots. Being remade and shipped, so I am using 05’ ford explorer NGK wires for now. Went with a “7” heat NGK plug on account of the 10:1 CR. It’s raining this weekend, but just need to dial-in some crude alignment and she will be road worthy IMG_2339.mov

So this is the finished product if anyone else is interested. It is made out TPU which is very flexible (and hard to print). I have used TPU to create plugs for my floors, wiring grommets and other such.

Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍

Yup! Been daily driving it, 300+ days a year, for the last 4 years. Approaching 75,000 miles on the turbo build. No regrets.

I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there with these awards it’s just incredible, especially with all the awesome cars I was competing against. It’s great to see the judges appreciate all the hard work and effort that has gone into it. These are the awards I received. 1st Place in Ultra Modified Best Engine Gold Cup- This was totally unexpected and shocking it was given to a Z with and LS3 since most of these guys are Nissan purists. Again, thank you all for your support and keeping this site alive.

an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.

I don't know if you have ridden in modified Z cars, but 240Z's are LIGHT. 320 to the wheels it's basically a widow maker. Overkill on power is overkill on power. You reach a point where more power is useless, as you can't put it down, and the car is already dangerous as-is. It's a street car. With the power level you are talking about, additional bracing is necessary in the subframe and rails. Do you like reliability? Stock=reliability, modifying it for 40-50 horsepower could take away the reliability. stock 370Z engine is fine power wise bone stock for a 240Z. A lot of the modern cars with all the horsepwoer....that's in a car that weights OVER 4000 pounds. 2 tons. Completely different deal. Your weight is about half of those. Be sensible. Live Longer. And this setup....stock brakes are NOT good enough, nor is a stock suspension.

Like many other Zs my 50+yr old staked ujoints were making some clicky play and of course there is not much good information out there. After some research online, the staked ujoints can be replaced but restaking them properly requires a special tool which is quite expensive (500$ to a few thousand). Also many shops will not touch these components for liability reasons. So what I did was I carefully ground down the stakes with a dremel tool and pressed out the old ujoints. For the new ujoints I actually had to do the job twice as I initially purchased some ujoints recommended by the classic zcar forums. What I found was the caps were so soft that they ovalled out when pressing in and caused binding in the joint. The country of manufacture were not specified on the boxes, and when I cut the joints out to redo the crosses were also soft. After many years of dealing with poor quality aftermarket parts, I should have known better and the solution I found was to purchase high quality Made in Japan Toyo joints PN ST-1540 (15mmx40mm), and when pressing these in the caps do not distort or cause binding. I believe this is an OEM part and OE supplier. Pressing the new joints in, you need to be careful and press the caps to the appropriate depth to achieve 40mm cap-to-cap, centered in the yokes on either end of the cross. Similar to what is done in the 4x4 communities I decided to tack weld where the old stakes were, 4 per joint and air cool after each tack as to not overheat the parts. I know this is much stronger than the factory arrangement as I was able to press the OEM caps past the OE stakes whereas I could not actually press out my first install attempt (before I realized the poor quality bearing issue) with a 20 ton press without exactly grinding down the spot welds for fear of bending the yoke ears (the poor quality soft caps were all kinds of mushrooming out and distorting unlike the OE hardened caps). Hopefully this helps someone. This has been on my to do list for the better part of a decade and I know from inspecting many columns and steering shafts over the years that there are a lot of worn joints out there. Edit: per suggestion from @NewZed the joints which did not work are as follows: https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1100 From this thread at classic Z cars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63434-steer-column-u-joints/?do=findComment&comment=629099 When I was researching the above joint, it seems many of the same appearance above are sold under different name brands are coming out of China, probably from the same or similar factories. Also some tips: I practiced the tacks on a few spare caps I had laying around and they blow through super easy compared to thicker driveshaft ujoint caps. So focus your torch on the cast yoke, one small dab of filler, and lightly wash the filler down onto the cap. Work quick so you put the minimum heat into the parts. I used tig as that is what I currently have available but mig with small wire may work as well. Consolidating comments to FAQ from discussion thread: Another option could be to plate in like below- I did check and 15mm washers are available. Due to the construction of the s30 steering yokes, I'd recommend washers sunk into the holes versus plating above the recessed bearing surface so the bearing is fully captive and cannot move. This will make sense if you are servicing the joints and have the parts in your hands. See picture of washers welded to yoke ears. This way per @NewZed comments the metallurgical properties of the bearing caps are not affected.

I finished up the front crossmember and motor mounts Started with a stock crossmember with the need for new engine mounting since I moved the engine in the chassis back about 1 inch. I extended and boxed in the existing upright Some grinding and blasting to clean it up 3 D printed mockup of a machined bracket I made to accept the moustache bar busings. I designed these years ago and have been in the NA car for 15 years. Worked well I machined this weld in bracket out of a solid chunk of steel because I wanted the details for the bolt holes and you could not do that with bent sheet metal. Stupid but fun. More soon

Hey Derek, you know my neighbor John at HyTech. Fun stuff. Someday a LY head if we could find the time?

Spent today packing up orders and only 5 outstanding. Looking forward to wrapping these all up once I work through the technical issues on these ones. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

It's not the votage drop that matters it's what the voltage drop indicates. No spark will be created if the current through the coil is not stopped. You could also disconnect the coil negative at the coil and check the wire for continuity to ground, key off. Disconnect the wire, put one meter probe on the end and the other probe on a good bare piece of metal or the engine block. You should get OL or infinite/huge ohms on your meter.

Yes, with the carbs you can get rid of the ECU and EFI parts. The complete EFI harness can be removed. The guys that know on the site (from the past) say that the exhaust system is restrictive and opening it up helps a lot (see John C posts from the past) , and that if you decide to use a performance cam go big (see JMortensen posts from the past). The typical "Stage" 1 or 2 cams don't add much, apparently. So, the simple and effective way to add some power is with a better exhaust system and a big cam. Cams are more expensive than they seem because you need to buy lash pads and rocker arms along with the cam. The collection of parts costs can add up. But it's a pretty simple operation to get it done. Many people like the lighter flywheel. It takes more finesse on the clutch pedal but they say it's worth it. Fidanza is a good choice. For street driving an LSD doesn't add much. You might wait on it and see if you have traction problems. There is a ton on the site from the old-timers, around the 2000 to 2015 time range. Things have slowed a lot on the site as people have moved on. But their contributions are still here. Many of the guys were racers and/or engineers/mechanics/machinists and spent a lot of time and money on their projects. Today's car hobbyists really only know turbos and EFI since that's what they were raised on. Good luck.

"Grinding" is not very specific. Can you add details? Have you driven it? Is it the same in every gear? 71B's are known for destroying the adapter plate bearings. Did you find any metal on the drain plug magnet? If you've been driving it you might drain the fluid and see how it looks. Might also be worthwhile to lift the car and get underneath with the engine running to see if you can locate the noise. Replacing the main and countershaft bearings is not very difficult. You only have to split the cases and pull the bearings off of the ends of the shafts. The adapter plate bearings are more difficult.

New car underway!!! look for it summer 2025.

thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4

With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim