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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Does your camera have a close-up function? Can't really see in there. It does look odd, but it might just be designed for shooting stream instead of a cloud. You could have posted pictures of the other injectors for reference. Or a shot of the injector body since that's about the only way to tell the Z and Zx injectors apart, by color. Aftermarket has number/letter codes though, so those would tell something. Really, you haven't given much of a clue. Basically, a picture of a metal tube and some seals. The one that doesn't matter, #3, looks like a Standard brand FJ series, If it was NA for a 280Z it would be an FJ707T.
  2. NewZed
    So DIY got back to you and told you that you had the wrong injector setup? Narrow your thought process down from "exploding computer" to "overloaded injector control transistor" if you want to get back on the road. You'll need a soldering iron.
  3. NewZed
    I kind of jumped ahead and back and forth in the story but I got the impression that you did not have the spark plug properly grounded. That would be one reason for no spark when testing. Normally the ground strap of the plug grounds through the threads of the plug, which are in contact with the head. Yours are hanging in mid-air. When you hold them in your hands they are also ungrounded unless you are touching the block or the body. Even then, if your hands are dry and calloused, you'll get a poor ground. It's a bad idea anyway since they'll give a good shock. Set the plug on the valve cover with the threads making good contact with the metal. Or run a jumper wire fromthe ground strap to the body or block. Then look for spark.
  4. NewZed
    If you mean the thing I circled in red, that's a capacitor, aka condenser. They do go bad occasionally. I see no ceramic pieces. The miss on the condenser makes one wonder what you meant by ignition control module. The coil looks stock. Might be worthwhile to browse through the FSM, Engine Electrical, and make sure you're getting the names right, at least. There are some parts on the ZX type distributors that can break after many miles.
  5. NewZed
    1979 didn't have a ballast resistor. Not clear what you're really working with.
  6. NewZed
    Learn how the engine management works. Take some measurements. There is no easy path back to 100 mph speed runs. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
  7. NewZed
    https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/TI/TIP42.pdf I took a quick look around the internet but couldn't find an MS board that looks like yours. It could be your injector driver/transistor, based on specs. and what injectors need. BUT, the white stuff might just be heat transfer paste. Not really a sign that it's no good. Did the guy just stick his nose down on the part and proclaim it as bad? It's easily replaced, if it is. Could also just be that the paste shorted the connections. Maybe. You should at least find out what kind of Megasquirt you have. There are several varieties.
  8. NewZed
    Sounds like your injector drivers might have failed open. Probably flooding the engine until the fuse blows. Or you have a short at the power supply to the injectors. Just guessing. You could disconnect the injectors from board to check for a short. The drivers themselves will take more work. Some random links... http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_injector_driver_troubleshooting.htm http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=51994
  9. NewZed
    Red/blue not on the diagram makes things difficult. I would check those switches at the transmission first. They have power and there's supposed to be a load on the other side that would prevent a short. If they were just tucked away somewhere they might be contacting the body.
  10. NewZed
    Kind of sounds like Kind of sounds like the ignition switch stopped working, and Start only gave On, with no starter action. So the PO messed around with the wiring to make it run. Added the push button to fix the no starter action problem, and maybe hot-wired the ignition relay. It shouldn't click when the battery cables are connected. That will drain the battery. Does the car turn off with the key or do you have to drop the clutch with the brakes on? The hot fusible links, with the T plug behavior, is probably a separate problem. Maybe a bad alternator or voltage regulator. You'll have to dig around and see what else has been messed with. There's probably more messed up than just the starting circuit. Look for extra loose wires T'ed or spliced in where they don't belong. The wiring diagram for the ignition switch circuit is pretty easy to understand.
  11. NewZed
    You should re-think what's happening and write a new description. Most of your post doesn't make sense. Read it back to yourself and you'll see.
  12. NewZed
    The link in Post #10 seems to work fine. Goes directly to a picture.
  13. NewZed
    The process of elimination should work for you. There's only two left, right, and one of those is supply. Or you can go back the the tank and blow air through the lines connected to the ports shown in the Fuel and Exhaust (FE) chapter (not the Engine Fuel System chapter). Always good to confirm anyway. But it looks like the 1973 internet resources don't have that chapter. Could be why you missed it. So 1972 or 1974 will have to do. Here's a good resource for those- http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals
  14. NewZed
    Your original guesses were correct. Liquid should not be returned to the reservoir. You have the wrong line connected. There is a specific port for returning fuel to the tank. Labeled drawings are in every FSM, in the Fuel and Exhaust chapters. Look at the pictures and you'll probably be able to figure it out.
  15. NewZed
    Attach links to the threads you've read so people don't waste time referring you to them. There was a very good one recently on this exact topic.
  16. NewZed
    Just to help you with your original question, I'll rephrase it - How many of you would pay $350 for a set of brackets that will let you use Z32 calipers and rotors, front and back, on your S30's? You'll need to source the other parts yourself. So add in the cost of the calipers, rotors, pads, and any assorted hardware to make it work, and you have the cost of the "kit". It's interesting to see how new products are developed. Best not to be too sensitive to criticism/questions, especially when it's just one of many ideas out there on the interweb.
  17. NewZed
    Because there's no market for them. Nobody wants them. That's how business works. Make a set and show the value. You said they're worth $300 to you, and you have a car to put them on.
  18. NewZed
    Looks like one's a dog collar and the other a timing belt. Pretty sure that I've read of people using a common nylon cargo hold-down strap. Get the kind with the ratcheting mechanism and you could have a nice tight strap, maybe even avoid the clunking problem.
  19. NewZed
    So the price is down to $300 now, from $300-400. 300/4 = $75 per bracket. You'd probably generate more interest and know more about your costs if you made a set and showed how well they work. It's all bench-racing until then, so BS'ing about cost and value doesn't seem unreasonable. Are Z32 brakes better than what Silvermine offers? http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades
  20. NewZed
    Your imagination and fear that you broke something come to mind. Or maybe a chunk of carbon broke loose and fouled a spark plug. You could give it a good lookover, measuring lash, looking at plugs, measuring cylinder pressures, etc. That's one way to get real information about the state of the engine.
  21. NewZed
    Watch the fluid level in the reservoirs to see if any leaves when someone pushes the pedal, and returns when the pedal is released. That will give you a clue about what's happening in the master cylinder. Your parking brake is mechanical, independent of the hydraulic system.
  22. NewZed
    Australia - http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=727 $2,750 aussie dollars >>> $2392 US
  23. NewZed
    That's a good point about the drive shaft angle. The design that people are copying is for a V8 swap and lowers the nose if used with the GM transmission mount. So it might have issues with the L6. Seems like somebody would seize the opportunity and tweak the design. If it's used as a snubber though, you keep the stock angle and stock mount, just avoiding the nose lift. So, no obvious solutions. They all have potential problems.
  24. NewZed
    Why would you promote that over the RTZ style mount? The design is weaker -the diff still sits on the crossmember, the noise issue might be exaggerated but it's still more than the RTZ-style, plus the design flaw of stressing a very small area of the crossmember, possibly leading to fatigue cracking. Why take a chance? The OP's plans for the car would factor in. If he has a fairly noisy car maybe solid is easy. But if he has a quiet street cruiser the old diff howl could be a problem. If he's drag-racing, fatigue could be a problem. The RTZ-style just seems more logical.
  25. NewZed
    The easiest way to get things right is to buy a clutch kit that contains the throwout bearing collar. The collar is matched to the height of the pressure plate. That's the key to avoiding problems.
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