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Found 282 results

  1. I'm in the process of installing a long nose R 200 limited slip differential with 280 ZX turbo tripod half shafts into a 240 Z. I have transferred the dust shield from the 240 Z companion flange to the 280 ZX turbo companion flange, although I'm not exactly sure why I needed to do that. However, as many of you know, there is a problem with the grease seal. There have been writeups in the past on this recommending using the R200 Pinion seal with the rubber removed off of the outside of the seal. However, in my circumstance, it was too large by 0.080in. By measuring the seal journal of the 280 ZX Turbo companion flange and the inner diameter of the housing for the 240 Z, I came up with the dimensions of 40 mm for the outside diameter of the companion flange seal journal, and 72 mm for the inside diameter of the 240 Z housing. So, there are several sources that make a 40 x 72 x 10mm grease seal. I ordered one from Timken and it was a perfect fit! Problem solved! I found this seal simply by google search. I hope this helps anyone trying to do this conversion.
  2. I'm in the process of installing a long nose R 200 limited slip differential with 280 ZX turbo tripod half shafts into a 240 Z. I have transferred the dust shield from the 240 Z companion flange to the 280 ZX turbo companion flange, although I'm not exactly sure why I needed to do that. However, as many of you know, there is a problem with the grease seal. There have been writeups in the past on this recommending using the R200 Piñon seal with the rubber removed off of the outside of the seal. However, in my circumstance, it was too large by 0.8 mm. By measuring the seal journal of the 280 ZX Turbo companion flange and the inner diameter of the housing for the 240 Z, I came up with the dimensions of 40 mm for the outside diameter of the companion flange seal journal, and 72 mm for the inside diameter of the 240 Z housing. So, there are several sources that make a 40 x 72 x 10mm grease seal. I ordered this from Timken and it was a perfect fit! Problem solved! I found this seal simply by google search. I hope this helps anyone trying to do this conversion.
  3. With the free time I've had due to being unemployed from this crisis I have had the time to put in some good hours working on my 240Z. I'll start this thread for my plans of my build in the long run: 1. Complete chassis restoration, rust removal, minor chassis strengthening 2. Stock VQ37VHR (using ZFever wiring harness and McKinney engine mounts) 3. CD009 6-speed transmission (using McKinney trans mounts) 4. Complete suspension overhaul with coilovers and TTT or Apex Engineered front and rear pieces (either a R200 or Ford 8.8) 5. Complete re-wire of the rest of the car (simplify the wire harness, Honda wiper and blower motor) The past few weeks have been reserved for completely stripping the car, finding damage and rust, and getting it ready to get sandblasted before going to my body work guy. I decided to avoid doing any sort of write-ups or videos on the chassis stripping because for the most part this is a pretty easy to disassemble car, but if you've got a rusty Z I suggest having a good deal of your favorite beer nearby and be ready to snap at least 25% of the bolts on the outside of the body. Interior removal was pretty smooth and can be done easily with simple tools and buddy to help with the dash and glass. GET A GOOD ORGANIZER BIN AND A TON OF SMALL BAGS TO KEEP TRACK OF BOLTS! One of the Z parts websites sells bolt kits, but having the originals well organized makes it easier if you plan on reusing your bolts and screws. Here is my Z sitting in the garage before starting the work. As you can see I have a pretty basic workstation, but my buddy who owns the garage has the other wall lined with toolboxes and equipment. Got the VQ37VHR sitting on my engine stand there on the left (Only 25k miles, pulled running from a rear end totaled G37, pretty lucky find) Old Engine Removed. At this moment I still have the engine for sale and will probably post it here soon. It's a running L28 with ZTherapy SU carbs connected to a 4-speed trans. Some bad rust on the front main frame rails, both sides. My floor pans and their respective frame rails are also kinda garbage, so I got a new set of floor pans from Zedd Findings and I am about to order the Baddog Frame Rails and rear subframe connector soon. Got the interior pretty much stripped down. Still need to remove glass, headliner, and steering column, then strip and remove the doors Fenders off. Need to find a way to modify that cowl drain, who designed it that way????
  4. I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car
  5. Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.
  6. So I can find a ton of posts about the main hoop needing to have only 4 bends and those bends cannot exceed 180 degrees when totaled up. The problem is, I can;t find that in the nasa or SCCA rule books. Is that an actual rule? My cage builder bent this main hoop for me, I am just verifying before I have him re-do it as it would open up some space. Thanks! Here is a picture for reference, notice how the hoop bends around the rear wheel tub.
  7. I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.
  8. After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had supercharged it with all the basic Miata mods. The car was extremely fun, but it was not a car that I saw myself keeping for the long run and I had this long list of parts/mods I wanted to do to it. I had always wanted a few cars but they were just out of my price range; 240z, s2000 and a few old muscle cars. I thought about it and decided that if I was going to pour tons of money and time into a car I wanted it to be a car I wanted to keep and loved the looks of, not just enjoyed the drive. Once I had made this decision I was a sophomore in college and began the long search for a Z. I spent about 9 months of searching everyday for a s30, primarily looking at 240zs.
  9. Hello forums, first post here. I’ve been sifting through these forums for awhile and cannot seem to find the answer to my question. A friend and I are restoring/making a track car of a ‘73 240z I picked up recently. We’re currently stripping it down to a bare shell to mount on a rotisserie for sand blasting, but ran into an area of bad rot on the air duct under the front fender. Is this area highly structural? Im wondering if anyone has tackled replacing metal in this spot or cutting it all out and replacing it with tubes? Any suggestions? Thank you! Here’s the goals with this car by the way: -streetable track car, will be driven only now and then, not a daily or a dedicated track only car -plans are to drop an RB in it, not sure which one yet, and have it built to around 350-450whp -would like to keep the stock locations of the suspension components as i do not want to mess with the geometry -will have a full roll cage p.s. moderators I did not mean to post this multiple times, it was giving me an error and I didn’t think it posted. Was also told my previous posts weren’t working because of the apostrophe in the title. Sorry!
  10. so for some reason when i flip the turn signal switch the signal turns on but it just stays on it doesn't flash how it is suppose to and also my hazard switch doesn't work don't know if the two problems relate. would anyone know the fix. -thanks
  11. Looking for 1973 Datsun 240z body hood emblems and scripts
  12. Looking for black rubber trip pieces for front and rear bumpers and bumper guards
  13. Looking for black rubber trip pieces for front and rear bumpers and bumper guards
  14. I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
  15. Hi guys. I hadn't come across your site before (my loss), the fine folks at Z Car Club of Washington suggested I post my car here. 1973 Datsun 240z in beautiful condition, ready to drive and cherish. You experts will have seen mods like this before. It's been fitted just a few months back with a 350ci Chevy crate V8 motor. Tidy install with T5 5-speed manual transmission, R200 differential, new clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, and aluminum radiator. Body recently repainted in its original silver, stock slim bumpers without overriders remain in place, and chrome bullet-style side mirrors added. Further alterations include 15x8" Rota wheels, lowering springs and new struts, 3-spoke Raid 1 steering wheel with Datsun horn button, fixed bucket seats with suede inserts. Goodyear Eagle tires dated 2015, plenty of tread. The passenger side taillight is cracked, though I have a replacement unit to swap. Also have chin spoiler for fitting if desired (I prefer without). Factory stereo and clock don't work (I just use a bluetooth speaker). Always garaged, no rust or other trouble to the best of my knowledge. I have the engine paperwork and clean title. Basically this is a gorgeous car that you could drive every day or keep for special occasions. I actually have not owned it very long, the only reason I'm selling is that my new house has a steep curb/driveway (both up and down) and I can't get this car in/out without dragging the exhaust, even with my curb bridge in place. I'm very sad about that, but it looks like it's time for a new owner to enjoy the car. I am happy to provide more photos/video or show the car to anyone interested here in Seattle. $19k OBO
  16. DUDE

    Grommets

    Does anyone have a diagram or a list of all the grommets and seals that at 240Z needs or where I could obtain that information ? I am needing every bit of rubber on my car but I want to make sure that I get every one that I need
  17. I'm trying to get my new Series 1 240Z project car started, and it looks like the original fuel pump isn't working. I bought a replacement, but the bottom bolt snapped in half while I was removing the original. Now I have half of that bolt stuck in my block with no good way to pull it out. Does anyone out there have any good ideas? I've heard of people welding on nuts, but I've never welded in my life so I'm a little worried about trying it. Also, I'd like to get a replacement bolt for when I eventually pull that sucker out. Does anyone know what size bolt this is?
  18. Hey y'all, I need some clarification. From what I've read in various forums and conversations & a few google searches. Datsun utilized 2 or 3 versions of the 5 speed for the 280z. Again, from what I've read. It seems as though the later 80-83 version is the more desirable due to it being a close ratio gearbox compared to the earlier versions. And from what I can tell, it doesn't seem as though there is any identification numbers stamped on the transmission. I did read that if the 5 speed has one hanger at the tail end then it's the more desirable version compared to the earlier version which would have two hangers/forks? There was a 4204C label stamped on it, not that this probably helps. If anyone can tell me which version of the 5 Speed I bought, I'd appreciate it. Did anything that I mentioned above seem to be completely wrong? Thank you in advance!
  19. I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R
  20. Hello I have never welded before and was hoping that you all can tell me if I should buy a "mig welder" and attempt to spot weld my entire car myself? If so any ideas of the most inexpensive machine and possible advice on how to learn to do myself?
  21. Hi, I'm looking for a set of rear turrets from a 240z. Perhaps you have a rusted out or crash damaged car? If so I'm looking for the turrets to be cut out out. I've attached an image highlighting the panels I'm after. Thanks.
  22. I have purchased the vintage air 2 for my 70 to 240 Z I was hoping someone knows the specs/measurements for the brackets to install the unit under the dashboard I cannot weld so I’m trying to just put together steel brackets and put them together to fit but I could use some help with how far up and down place it in side to side so I’m not spending an arm and a leg on the brackets. Or if anyone has got extra ones welded I’m willing to purchase them ?😀
  23. I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts
  24. Hi peeps I have an 72 240z and I have purchased an Vintage air Gen 2 air conditioning system, but I do no have the bracket that will hold the condenser in place that will also give it tension! So I am hoping someone can give me a path on where I can purchase a reasonably priced bracket for this system?
  25. Hello Everyone, I bought a 1971 Datsun 240z, about 2 years ago as my first project car. The more I started to dig into the car, the more I wanted to repair and improve it. Initially I was just planning on getting it running and using it while slowly upgrading and repairing it. I ended up tearing it down to the bare chassis, mounting it on a rotisserie and media blasting it. After I media blasted it, I decided to replace the floors and upgrade the frame rails with baddog frame rails. I sat down and thought about what I wanted the car to be and I came up with a ton of ideas, but ended up narrowing it down into one vision. The vision is this(nicknamed ProjectWhiteNoiseZ): My vision is inspired by modern Nissan Nismo styling, but it will be powered by a 2JZ-GTE with a cd009 transmission. I have gone through every part and media blasted and powder coated it or upgraded it with something better. Doing all of this, inspired my brother to buy a crashed 2008 Mustang GT and the current plan is to complete our cars by August/September '18. I live in Colorado and he lives in Pennsylvania, so I'll be road tripping the 240z 1700miles each way when complete to meet him at a track in Pennsylvania and race. If you're interested to see the work and follow our journey to complete our cars over the next few months, we have a YouTube channel, Facebook, and Instagram where we're documenting our builds. Any comments on suggestions for YouTube video improvements are appreciated. We will answer any questions you have. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJt7v6VEHBqNPweO_cZ1guw PBB Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectbuildbrothers/ PWNZ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectwhitenoisez/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProjectBuildBrothers/
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