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Showing results for tags 'v8'.
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I have a 71 h150 nissan president and I'm trying to restore it. The motor is a y40 v8 which I have converted to efi with timing control through a Halley sniper efi and a magnetic pick-up distributor. The trouble im finding is setting timing, like cruise and w.o.t. degrees, due to the lack of info on this motor. Any help would be appreciated
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This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
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Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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Hi guys. I hadn't come across your site before (my loss), the fine folks at Z Car Club of Washington suggested I post my car here. 1973 Datsun 240z in beautiful condition, ready to drive and cherish. You experts will have seen mods like this before. It's been fitted just a few months back with a 350ci Chevy crate V8 motor. Tidy install with T5 5-speed manual transmission, R200 differential, new clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, and aluminum radiator. Body recently repainted in its original silver, stock slim bumpers without overriders remain in place, and chrome bullet-style side mirrors added. Further alterations include 15x8" Rota wheels, lowering springs and new struts, 3-spoke Raid 1 steering wheel with Datsun horn button, fixed bucket seats with suede inserts. Goodyear Eagle tires dated 2015, plenty of tread. The passenger side taillight is cracked, though I have a replacement unit to swap. Also have chin spoiler for fitting if desired (I prefer without). Factory stereo and clock don't work (I just use a bluetooth speaker). Always garaged, no rust or other trouble to the best of my knowledge. I have the engine paperwork and clean title. Basically this is a gorgeous car that you could drive every day or keep for special occasions. I actually have not owned it very long, the only reason I'm selling is that my new house has a steep curb/driveway (both up and down) and I can't get this car in/out without dragging the exhaust, even with my curb bridge in place. I'm very sad about that, but it looks like it's time for a new owner to enjoy the car. I am happy to provide more photos/video or show the car to anyone interested here in Seattle. $19k OBO
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Hi guys. I finally finished up the body work and sprayed my Z. It has been a long long process. The color is House of Kolor KBC11 candy red. It came out good. There is soo much reassembly to do after I finish color sanding and buffing. Here is a few pics.
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Selling my 1973 Datsun 240z on Bring A Trailer. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-43/ LS1 engine, T-56 transmission Exterior: White 2,400 miles since rebuild Located in San Diego, CA More details on bring a trailer in link above. Contact: John DM for contact info and questions.
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I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
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Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that seems to have fixed the problem. I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
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Rolling with the punches a 75 280Z v8 Refresh
hwvigo posted a topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S. -
So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes
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Hey guys was curious if anyone has a BBC write up. Picking up a L78 6.5L 396 BBC for my 78 208Z 2+2. Car had a SBC in it over the summer and i wasnt impressed. Stumbled across the 396 for a good price. Was wondering if anyone has done this swap or a similar one. Curious about fitment and clearance.
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Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
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I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
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Hey guys, I've got a 78 280Z with a V8 in it but my goal is to style it in JDM fashion, big flares, airdams, spoilers etc. I have a build log you can check out here: www.vvise.net/z.php I'll try to keep this thread up to date with an image or two when I make progress on the car. Just last night I rebuilt all my gauges with new white faces that I made and LED lights. I think the effect is amazing.
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Hey all! I'm planning out a V8 swap for my '82 280zx coupe. I'm planning on using a 6.0L LQ4 with a T56 6 speed manual out of a '98-'02 F-body. I decided to stay with the R200 differential so that I can keep my independent suspension. I'm looking for someone that has done this same swap that can tell me what the length of the drive shaft needs to be. I know there is a lot of support with this swap so I was hoping that there is a drive shaft out there that will work with that setup. Does anyone who did this same swap have a good set of measurements for their drive shaft? Or will I have to have one made? Thanks for any/all help, Ford
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First and foremost, I would like to apologize to everyone with those super sweet z cars that opted not to molest them. This will make you cringe. Some of you will probably love this build more than you should. I have been a SUPER long time lurker here, as I have been tooling on this car for the better part of 7 years, 4-5 hours at a time, 3 months at a time. One thing of note, is that I stayed on a very slim budget for the most part, cheap as possible, expensive as necessary. I did have some non-negotiable goals, one of which was taking a lot of inspiration from the Shelby Daytona car... My true love in life. Now before more long story, some z pr0n. These were the pictures I was provided with when responding to an ad for a super cheap 240z 6 hours from me. I didn't afraid. It was every bit as aweful as it looked in those pics. When we went to load it on the car dolly, the rear end seized and we had to pull the drive shaft anyway so we just wheeled it around on the jack to get it to the dolly. The fuse box also tried to catch fire, the car ran on even after ignition was off, it had a aquafina bottle as an "nhra legal" overflow lololol... the seller was kind, but man, he was really trying to sell this pile. At this time it had a small block Chevy 305 and a th350 in it already with a custom driveshaft already made. So I was stoked that a lot of the work was done for me. This was not a blessing, literally everything the previous carsmith had done was brutally wrong and was shady in one way or another and really just sucked and didnt work. couldnt catch all gears, super drive line problems, suspension felt like it was going to fall off on decel(later found out that a tire on the front was literally full of water, only after installing all new poly bushings on the whole car), seats moved a lot but were power seats with no power, I mean, holes in every panel, completely destroyed wiring harness with countless shorts. You know, a real mans tear provoking nightmare. And I welcomed it. Now, I started this pretty young, and have gone through many life stages while working on it, changing my outlook a little at a time. The first 2 years with the car, I was unmarried and renting a house with a tiny carport. It was hard to do much, but since I purchased the car very cheap, I decided my next tax refund would go towards things like all new weather stripping(which ended up sitting in a box for 4 years) and a body kit to kind of modernize the look, but not be too ricy... failed that kinda. I wanted the perfect blend of muscle and import. I feel like it worked out well in the end, a lot of things would have been done differently if I started it again today, but fukkit. A big part of this project was learning to fabricate and do body work and all that fun stuff. What I realized was I hate body work and take my hat off to people who do it well. I had a few things I did great, but I really did not have the patience for it after waiting to really drive the thing for 6 years. I ended up just sealing the body with a nice epoxy primer so that I can further build and finish the body work some winter in the garage I now have. I just shot it with a cheap rustoleum job and put the glass back in and drove the hell out of it for a day until I realized it wouldnt really shift anymore. Then some where in between the putting the body kit on and actually painting it, I got married, bought a house, became a foster parent... lots going on, even less time and money for the car. Progress was slow, but one spring I just sat down and steeled my will with the only option I had. Sort out the impossible. I had been stopped by the 5 speed swap failure of the previous spring. But I decided to figure it out. The drivetrain was a complete mashup, sbc v8 into the mythical jeep bell housing from the iron duke, into a ford pattern t5 out of a 96 v6 camaro 5 speed, into the original custom driveshaft into an r200 lsd out of the 280z. All of the hydraulics were also from a jeep. I had many problems getting this bell housing to actually work, despite seeing people all over the internet saying it was a sure thing, yet no one ever actually doing it themselves and having details, or the details that some could find referring to Napa part numbers that haven't existed for a decade. Neat. Well internet, despair no longer, for I have made it work! Details will be in another post, because this is going to be a huge convoluted post even without that juju. Painted Pics! As of a month or so ago, I have been tearing up the streets in this new ride, it still has tons and tons of work to be even close to finished, but it is SO fun to drive anyway. No interior, jank gauge mount... lack of gauges... you know, the optional equipment Between last year and this year, the brake system decided it was its final year of life as far as rubber goes, so I had to completely redo it, I took advantage of that to install a disc brake conversion on the rear(I know, its heavy but it was 120 bucks more than all of the parts i had to put into the factory old drums and it felt wrong), new soft lines, new hard lines, new calipers and pads up front, new booster, and a new master. She stops real nice now. Now, I would like to say, that I tried to take good pictures, but I failed, and I am going to show you guys anyway, because I have no shame. I mean, I drove that thing around the way it looks and loved it. It is for me to enjoy as a street legal go-kart and nothing more. Just a toy to be abused. MOAR PICS! I will try to be a active for a bit to answer questions people may have about putting parts that should never be together into one of these things, I have learned A LOT. I mean, nothing on that is stock anymore but the gas tank, headlights, and the front calipers... everything else came from some other donor... chevy, jeep, nissan, mazda, ebay, and other datsuns. yay. -
I am looking for a cheap, running and driving v8 swapped Z. It can be ugly but I do not have the equipment to do a swap. I have the skills and equipment to give it some TLC such as suspension and paint. A decent interior would be nice. I am young and broke, but will take good care of it.
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I read on XJared's S130 VK56 build over on the Nicoclub that he used an AEM Honda 30-1050U box to get his car running and I see a local classified ad for a Series 2 Honda box. I'm wondering if it will work, seller doesn't remember exact model number just that is a series 2 (as evidenced by the physical ecu box labeling); the AEM website lists the following as specs: Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs Up to 16 general-purpose outputs Up to 8 definable switch inputs Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim 1MB of internal data logging Wondering if this would work for my VK56 S30 project that I am currently (slowly) working on? I can't PM XJared on Nicoforums because I don't have enough posts to enable the feature. I did post on his build thread asking about this possibilities but I thought I would post here as well since I am sure some of you are way beyond me in ECU/ECM knowledge and capabilities. I don't see any problems where it will handle 12 injectors and 8 direct fire coils. I'd feel better about bugging the seller anymore about the price, and driving the hour to get it, if I knew for sure I could make it work. I also know one of the local custom shops mentioned they have worked with AEM boxes while tuning on their dyno but they don't sell them directly. Thanks!
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Hi everyone, I've been using this site for research along the way gearing up for my build. I just created an account, and this is my 1st post. I'm excited to interact and share my experience as I go with those I've mooched off of for so long! I've done a trial fit to check that the motor/oil pan/trans all lines up ok- so far so good! I'm now in the process of the final build on my 383, and about to pull the trigger on my suspension/brakes/hubs/axles etc. I figured I'd give up some info for critique from the experts (that's you guys!). I think I've ironed out most of the kinks of the build in my head, but maybe someone can catch me before I make stupid and expensive mistakes. 1st, a little history on the car/theme- I moved to san diego 5 years ago from Philadelphia, and I never knew such fun roads could exist! So I decided I needed a car that was more fun to drive, and after test driving a lot of cars, I bought an rx8. This was not even on my list of potential vehicles, but the salesman offered a fun test drive, so I bit. After driving such a light car, I can vow to never have a heavy "fun car" again! The rx8 was a hoot, but it didn't scratch my hot rod itch. After some digging, I came across the z cars. Amazingly lightweight, awesome weight distribution, ample underhood room, ginormous transmission tunnel, manual rack and pinion, strut suspension- I'm so in!!! Ok, now all I need to do is find one, being from philly, I've barely ever seen one- salty roads and weather wiped them all away long before my time. I figured I'd save up, and find a good specimen even if it took months. It took a day...I found a clean 69k mile, 1 owner, original orange county car for $1300 an hour from home- done! Ever since I've been reading and researching for the proper combination of parts that will satiate my "requirements" as a driver. It needs to be fast- stupid fast. It needs to handle- and not make me wish I had something else. It needs to look great- which Z's do!. It needs to be affordable- I'm not a "rich guy". (I could have bought a restored 63 corvette with a 9000rpm 302 or something if I were rich!) In all honesty, I'm really happy about the path I'm headed down with this car, and it really seems like a no compromise plan for not "classic muscle car" money, and it will be faster, handle better, and in my opinion, even look better. I can't decide if I really liked the 240 that much off the bat, or if I fell in love with it after staring and dreaming...I think it was both! Ok enough blabbering about why I'm doing this, and onto the technicals- This will be a street/strip car. Street because it would be a sin to build a drag car with the roads in san diego. Strip because theres no point of a car (imo) that you can't let fly. So the plan is as follows, 383, 11:1, brodix track1 heads, solid roller cam, single plane, holley 850hp carb (I build engines, that's the easy part). Should be about 550 horse on motor and pull to 7200 rpm, coming in around 2300rpm, trying to make it a canyon carver and a strip terror is tough for a cam designer, but my man says he has it covered... T56 6spd trans with aluminum flywheel and Ram powergrip hd clutch, good to 650hp as per Ram, and thats for a 3600lb car. R200 from q45, with techno toy tuning backing plates allowing q45 hubs, eliminating stub axles and flanges, while using q45 cv's with chromoly axles, and q45 brakes. Techno toy coilovers all around with tokico illiminas, 5 lug front hubs, and 300mm 4 piston brake kit. MSA sway bar kit, and quick ratio bump steer spacers. Possibly "zpowersteering's" electric steering assist kit. I have a shop on board to do the roll bar. For wheels I'm thinking 16x8, 5x4.5, 0 offset American Racing Torq Thrust II's polished. For tires, 225/50r16 front and 245/50r16 rear, maybe 45 series, not sure on that yet, need to do some measuring. I'm planning to use vintage air's system for AC, because the last thing I want is to get the car done, and loathe driving it because I don't want to stick the the seat. Soooo, what do you guys think??? I'd like to call out rebekahsz on this one, she always seems to have good input on stuff I've read before, plus the front tires are off the ground in the signature thumbnail Sorry that was so long winded everybody, I guess I've never had a chance to say all that to anyone that I thought would care before... please feel free to tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree with any of the parts I've chosen, or if you have any better ideas, all I have so far is the motor, transmission, and car. The techno toy order is ready, and I'll probably order it next week after I build the car in my head 10 more times haha. (Ps- the body isn't as bad as it looks, just red paint flaking to the original yellow beneath. I think that's why I got it so cheap, in the craigslist ad, it looked like bondo everywhere!) Thanks to all who have any input or recommendations in advance.
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So, long story short I recently bought a relatively clean 1974 260z. It already has a small block AMC v8 swap consisting of a 5.0l (304). I picked up an AMC 5.9l (360) engine that I will be rebuilding and replacing the 304 with. Here's a little cut and paste from my only other thread detailing how I got it home. It was a nearly 3 hour drive each way and the car very nearly made it in one piece. I noticed that the engine was running warm, at least over 200 degrees, and stayed there. I filled it up with gas two times on the way back, on the second fill up it started up then died from vapor lock, as the fuel filter was dry as a bone. After I let it sit and cool down it fired right back up, and we were on our way again. After another 10 minutes on the highway, it ended up tossing the water pump and alternator belt. It may have been a bad or gummed up pump that was causing it to run hot, so that will be replaced very soon. I brought a buddy and a truck with me though, so we towed it back to my house the rest of the way and it's now sitting pretty in my garage. I have some pictures I took this morning of the still dirty car, I haven't had a chance to wash it yet and the previous owner lived on a long gravel road. It used to be a show car in Chicago, and it came with some trophies won by that owner, as well as some shop manuals and a couple of extra headlights. Here's the pictures! It is a vinyl top 260z, I didn't even know that these were made. I guess you learn something new every day. It's in very good condition all around, almost zero rust anywhere. The bottom and frame rails were undercoated by the owner in Chicago, the guy who used it as a show car. He also painted the car with it's current livery and it appears he used the car's weight in flake. It's a little too "bass boat" and not enough "bad ass" for my taste, but that will change with time. -
Hi Guys I am about to purchase a complete rear end setup from a 1978 280z. The owner claims the car was a manual, and I'm needing to know how to identify that the car really was a manual. I know that if the car was truly a manual, then the rear end is indeed a R200. Any tips or identifiers on the rear end or the car being a manual is much appreciated. I've listed a link where I sourced the majority of my info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Thanks, Ben
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I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
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So I've had my eyes on a ls1 engine and a bunch of parts I couldn't identify at my cousins shop. I've just about got my dad sold on the idea of swapping a Chevy V8 into my 260Z and he actually seems really interested. (probably because it's GM) AAnyway I was wondering about your rear end setups on your V8 swapped Z's I know the common option is a R200 LSD or welding a R180 but I'm still kinda anxious about putting close to 350 hp to the wheels on a 40 year old car. Also I need help IDing the engine its self. It's an aluminum block LS1 so I know it's a car engine but I'm unsure about the displacement. I remember somebody at a family reunion saying something about a 5.3l at their shop but I thought the 5.3's were truck engines? My dad swears my cousin got the engine out of a Corvette a few years back but I'm not sure. Thank you guys! PS; I know many people will get the exhaust manifolds off of a Vortec truck to modify into a turbo manifold and I was wondering what the most common truck you can get the manifolds off of is?
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Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and should be one of the stronger parts in my drivetrain...leaving the axles as the weakest link i think. My question is this...how likely am I to hurt any of the axle parts with these street tires and my automatic? Both on the street and at the track (assuming i hook pretty well)? Have any of you broken them in the middle of a pass? (not off the line). I also would like to put maybe a 150 shot on the motor, as the motor was running on nitrous regularly in the previous car. I'd be looking to squeeze probably in 2nd gear...and I'm wondering if even that might be enough to shock one of those parts enough. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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