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Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.

Hey guys, after a 6 hiatus I might be returning with yet another Z project. Going full tilt this time, backhalf/rubbed, LS, and a big effing turbo. Found a '75 that has been sitting for 25 years. As long as the deal goes through, I will be rockin' rollin' by Winter.

And yet another timing chain mockup series. I'm convinced when they design a motor the first thing they do is the timing chain. Talk about restrictive. SN005 is building a tall deck motor so I needed to work out what we were doing on the timing chain. I was hoping that my normal KA setup would work with a redesigned pivot for the tensioner arm. Actually worked out better than the normal setup. It looks like the extra height on the head will allow the arm to clear the timing cover without modifying the cover. It uses all the stuff from a KA24 timing chain kit except the bottom chain needs to be a 94 link instead of the 92. I was trying to get the arm closer to the tensioner but this is the best I'm going to get. Each full link you add or subtract shortens or lengthens the chain by 5/8” so the adjustment is pretty coarse. The guides are stock out of the box Nissan KA24. The jumper brackets on the tension side are temporary. I’ll design something a little better. I'm happy with the angle on the top tensioner. The upper brackets should start to become a standard item at this point. I changed the way the cam cores are being produced. I'm bringing the cams to length after heat treating and then shipping them to Schnieder for OD turning. This is giving me a lot more control. I know it probably seems like this project has stalled but far from it. I just decided to concentrate on getting my build, V2 and SN005 finished off. I realized after selling 005 that there are still a lot of little details to work out and I don't have enough free time to do my regular work and support any more builds. The next three heads will go a lot smoother now that I have all of this worked out. Derek

i did single instead of dual Joe i have two friends that have muffler shops and they have taken classes on LS exhaust building. 2.5" single is supposed to be good up to about 450 hp. and i am at 450hp right on the nose. they said the different pipe configurations like x and strait across mainly change sound. the classes they took showed very tiny differences in HP and torque and when the curve peaks. they said they have heard hundreds of opinions but based on the dyno which does not have opinions you can get the same results with most any config as long as you go with the 2.5 diameter pipe. i used the Dirty dingo engine mounts and a strong home made trans mount so there is almost no engine movement so no need for any type of flex pipe. i did not use cats i put my O2s about 12" downstream from collectors. i made my own hangers. sounds very much like a stock everyday car until you jump on it which makes it even more of a sleeper.

Hi guys, starting to build this bodykit, let me know what you guys think. Thanks

It comes down to your vision of how the car will be built and used. Built two 240Z 350 SBC projects with 1989 Camaro WC T5 transmissions. First 240Z was built in 2001 for my teenage son. Car is still on the road. Second car built nine years ago. Daily driver. No problems. Also, the T5 fits well in the car with the shifter close to the stock position. Suggest that you spend a few weeks reviewing HybridZ threads on transmissions and purchase the JTR 240Z V8 installation manual. Many answers there.

I made an opportunistic purchase today! I've fantasized of going to 15X8 Watanabes (I know, so blasé) for years. A buddy tipped me off to a fresh set for sale locally and I decided to go for it. Really looking forward to seeing how they fit the car and keeping my fingers crossed that they'll work with the rear disks that I'm about to install. So now that this has finally happened, I'll have to liquidate a few things from the hoarde...

Hey guys, I've recently re done the front end of my 71 240z she had some good rust in there. I've triple measured before welding the TC rod brackets back on and did my best to ensure everything is as square as possible in terms of cross member and such. Ive been browsing around adjustable front control arms and TC rods. What's everyone's opinion on the home brew route? I like the technotoy tuning stuff but im not building a track car and don't really care about the "bling" value of em at this time. My goal is to have small adjustability to dial out any imperfections in the fabrication phase during alignment. Ive done lots of fab work with rod ends on my truck making a 3 link and all the steering etc so its not new to me the limitations and function of rod ends. Ive attached a couple pictures of ideas I seen online. I like the bung in the end idea especially since they wont see a lot of side loading. Any thoughts or pictures of other home made lower arms? On the TC rod side, I want to put a heim on the end to not have the fear of a snapped rod with poly bushings but making the little adapter bracket and the mucking around to thread the rod. Maybe they are just easier to purchase.... Opinions? on the rods is it best to thread the stock rod and add a turnbuckle. If I want to add a heim to it seems like a bit of screwing around to work out length etc. thanks in advance

I haven't done it myself or anything, but given that the car was produced in the days of larger margins of error, as well as gone through around 40 years of abuse, I wouldn't have expected it to be exactly "symmetrical". I would suggest just drawing it out on the panel, step back a few feet and see how it looks. Just keep re-drawing til it looks how you want. I feel when it comes to aesthetics, what your eyes see is more important than what the tape measure sees.