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Showing most liked content since 10/24/17 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim
  2. 1 point
    Auto Zone Speedi-Boot! 03670 is a perfect fit on a 1976 280Z steering rack. Cut one step off of the big end and you are good to go. Use a wire tie on the big end, but keep it off of the little end. This allows inner tie-rod adjustment without twisting the boot. Allow the boot small end to cover the threads of the inner tie-rod. see images of full turn condition
  3. 1 point
    Ecoboost is just Fords slick marketing term for "turbocharged". Which engines are having these problems? Ford has many turbo engines. Also, posting in all caps is for 8 year olds and 70 year olds. Please refrain from doing so.
  4. 1 point
    LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW
  5. 1 point
    I've been trying to follow the 20-80 rule lately with my car, especially when it comes to metal work. You see lots of full restorations that dig into every spot to make sure every inch of rust is taken car of, even smaller areas. That's either REALLY high dollar restoration or a decade's worth of work for busy people. For 20% the effort or cost you get 80% results. Restoration/power costs both tend to be an exponential curve and the point of diminishing returns is different for everyone. I'm aiming for 40-50% the effort of those insane restorations and hoping for a solid B+ level car the next several years. It won't be particularly fast, it won't be a show car, some rust will still be present and hidden, but the frame will be a bit stiffer, it'll have more power than stock, the paint will be presentable with some minor imperfections, and most importantly, it won't be in the garage until I'm in deeper than I can get out of and never enjoy it.
  6. 1 point
    There's nothing wrong with this S30. It's got damn every part that we all like to put on our cars that is currently offered by vendors out there right now. ...But there's nothing overly special about it either, other than it's well done. We have members on this forum that have more unique and interesting cars that were made on a much smaller budget in a 2 car garage than this thing.
  7. 1 point
    One more thing to say. Did you ever drive a Turbo Z? Im saying this because the "Funfactor" depends on where you drive. I have a 274 BHP N/A Z and a 450 AWHP BMW. on twisted roads the N/A Z is so much more fun to drive then the Turbo BMW. on a light signal start or highway its the Turbo. Drive both types if you can and see what suits you best. (Gear change point at 7500 N/A with the sound of tripples is one of the best things I ever had -->The smile is much bigger with the Z...).
  8. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  9. 1 point
    Honestly for the effort involved just take it to the pros. I got all my strikers for hood , doors, trunks, ashtray, gas cap and ring plated for 40 or 50 $ locally here in Ottawa. I chose yellow for half the stuff and silver for the other half. They first acid dipped to remove any dirt and oils then gave them back to me just asked me to wire brush and clean off any paints to bring the cost down. I feel like getting everything zinc plated
  10. 1 point
    Yeah! After talking to a race shop that gave me the idea, I did some searching and found Ronin did that for miata swaps.
  11. 1 point
    " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  12. 1 point
    I've been running a Spartan for a while and have had zero issues. I had nothing but headaches with my Inovate LC-1. Probably killed 3 or 4 O2 sensors. Derek
  13. 1 point
    I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.
  14. 1 point
    Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*): Then the hood stay / lock mechanics: So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car
  15. 1 point
    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it! Yes definitely one of those "big deal" cars and I'm excited to have been able to get my hands on one. I was nervous about your link comment; turns out turbo was correct about it being an ad. Since you mentioned links, if anyone wants to see what I normally work on feel free to visit the site I made for the shop! It's www.michaelsvintageracing.com. There are photos and videos of all the cars there!
  16. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  17. 0 points
    Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton... You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.
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