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Three weeks until I'm home and properly working on the car before a long road trip. I've been creating a detailed list on some Google notes of everything I hope to accomplish. I'll update once I truly get to it, but for now just wanted to share my excitement for my new brakes. Was in Utah about two weeks ago for a handful of days for a music conference and my brother was kind enough to let me borrow his truck to drive up to Logan just for one evening to have a quick dinner with the siblings up there and I took a quick trip to my folks' place late in the evening and opened up some of the parts to keep my motivation haha. Also had a big box of new seals from Resurrected Classics. They were kind enough to give me a steep discount on their weatherstripping kit when I asked if I could get it without the door seals since I had already purchased the S30 world seals before they released their kit. Looks like they were kind enough to give me the discount and kept the door seals anyway! I'll be making a thorough comparison of it against the Precision kit I have, mostly to see if it's truly far better for some of the worst fitting parts.

Went out for some Auto-x this weekend, and had a proper blast. Highly recommended for anyone here who still hasn't gone to try it. Enjoy a slow lap, some V8 noises and straight cut gearbox whine. I have a handful of things to think about and address moving forward, but overall I'm very happy with where this sits. Next up is OnGrid at the Ridge in late July for more testing, and maybe, just maaaaybe a little redemption.

Hi HybridZ, its been a while. Took a long sabbatical from working on my S30 to finish college and get a job. For the last 6 or so months its been full steam ahead, the project is currently being rust repaired at a local body shop and I've been collecting parts as budget allows. The first piece major piece of hardware to arrived is the Viking Performance Shocks from the Apex Engineered Track Attack Front/Rear Suspension kit. I noticed that Apex’s website lacks details on shock and spring selection, so I’m documenting my findings here for others and to start a discussion on their choices. What's Included: Box as it arrives from Viking Performance Serial Numbers of each of the shocks (PN: C203) Viking Performance Shocks Link Part Numbers of Springs (600# & 700#) Initial Impressions: The car will be caged and used primarily/almost exclusively on track, so a stiffer setup is expected. However the spring rate selection still raises some concerns: The S30 chassis doesn’t benefit significantly from extremely high spring rates, even with a roll cage. The rear suspension uses inboard cantilevered shocks, which traditionally increase effective spring rate via the lever arm. This spring selection guide from Viking Performance indicates that the spring rate for a car with IRS and axle weights of ~1200-1400# is a lot lower than the supplied springs. I'm hypothesizing that the high rates were chosen to prevent the shocks, which are short to fit the Z’s narrow frame and tight packaging within the front wheel wells, from bottoming out. I’ve reached out to Apex Engineered to clarify the wheel rates for this setup and will update this thread when I hear back. Let me know if any of you have run this kit or high wheel rates.

Good post. I was frustrated for a long time with companies not sharing spring rates on these parts. FWIW, Viking is legit, lots of fast SCCA guys run those things with good results. IF those spring rates were chosen to prevent bottoming out of the shocks, that's pretty poor design. My guess is that the motion ratio of the bellcrank will be the limiting/bottoming out feature here, and that the conversion to pushrods has resulted in some high force multipliers. My guess would be Viking starting point is mounting in a "muscle car" front end, where the motion ratio is fairly low. I'll be interested to hear what the APEX guys say!

Got the front wildwood brakes installed today! A couple small quirks along the way on my install: First side I installed the rotor on the adapter ring to the hub wrong and the caliper didn't line up. It has two separate mating surfaces, one for a 240z and one for the later 280z hubs. Since I've replaced my 280z hubs with the T3 hubs, I failed to realize they're essentially a universal hub for early and late models which is why they had an extra shim ring of about 10mm to account for where the 280z mounting surface is. I took the ring off, so technically I had to install them where the 240z ones are, unless I wanted to run my rotor ring AND the hub spacer shim that they came with. Avoiding too many unnecessary pieces so I redid that side to mount on the 240z mating surface of the adapter and we were fine. Problem 2 - because I ordered the 280z brake kit, the included hardware also assumes you're still using stock 280z hubs. It's on and worked on my short drive, but I noticed in the picture where they're installed that the bolts don't go all the way out to the mating surface for the wheels. Quite a few threads left unengaged. It's probably safe for the time being, since I thought about the forces on those specific bolts and it's not really in or out since they're perpendicular to the rotational force applied by the brakes. I also didn't feel like I had particularly few threads engaged as I was bolting the rotor to the hub. Probably safe for casual driving, but it's a high priority fix right now to get the correct length bolts from T3 or locally. Better safe than sorry! Other than that I'm really happy. Bled the system with my new Motul brake fluid, which should cope much better with the heat off the turbo vs the cheap generic O'Reilly fluid I had before.

Also not a facebook user here, but speaking in generalities: 1. In 2025, I would think seriously about the value proposition of buying a Z. Some of us have been dabbling in this hobby/affliction for nearly 30 years, starting back when these cars were cheap, plentiful in junkyards, and blank-canvases for modification. And today? Completely different game. Hard to tinker with a 50 year old car, just as a tinkering-car. Even harder to get the performance out of it, that was the stuff of our dreams in the 1990s. 2. These cars are becoming expensive. Even woebegone projects are becoming expensive. For the less-familiar, it's a costly trap!

it can seem like the page is dying off.....but we actually get new members every day, and if you scroll to the bottom and look at the numbers, we get a lot of visits daily.

Broken photos and links is honestly one of the biggest detriments separate from the attention span and social media issues. Most forums barely make enough to sustain themselves so the self hosted photos are always quite small and it's a bit frustrating when you're trying to see something in detail. I've been thinking of hosting my photos elsewhere but a lot of places like imgur could end up suffering the same fate as photobucket someday. That being said I'm still regularly updating here and directing people here when I can. I'll say one last thing that's a praise of forums and makes me hate social media lately - AI accounts and scammers making the 50th shitty group called "S30 240z 260z 280z and 280zx lovers and owners group" with stolen photos from reputable people make me want to blow up some Facebook servers. Drives me insane. Every few days lately someone posts about how someone scammed them out of money from some group. If you're even remotely active online the accounts have so many red flags too, so it hurts to see.

I have finally switched my focus to getting this car running again. This weekend I painted the engine block of the new replacement engine. I was hoping to get it in the car, but various things slowed down my progress. I thought I had a pilot bushing on hand, but couldn't find it. So, a trip to the store for that... Couldn't find the torque spec for the ARP flywheel bolts and wasted time looking for that. Little things like that eat time. Anyway, a few pics: With the back plate, flywheel, disc, and pressure plate now on, I am about ready to put the engine in. I think I will strip and repaint the motor mounts first. Then, I'll put the engine in and start the work to mount the oil tank for the dry sump. I will likely need to cut some of the inner fender well on the right side. I don't like going that route on my "early" Z, but I dislike blown motors more.

I did this last night. It made a difference in the shifting, much smoother and easier. I didn't read the amazon listing, so the new packs of the Dorman 65277 only have 1 20mm washer, not 2, so I ran to the Honda dealership and got a Honda 94109-20000 washer. The Dorman is thinner and copper, the Honda is thicker and aluminum. They are both crush washers. I would say it made it 30-40% easier and smoother to shift. Cost about $10 and once my car was in the air took about 30 minutes because my cat was right in the way, so I had to drop the front of my exhaust to get my hand in there. I have V bands, so it was easy to do. The Corvette and Mustang crowd call it the anti venom mod.

Lots of small fixes the past week: Replaced the glovebox light and made sure it was all working well. Replaced the hatch inner and outer seals. My installation was better, but the Resurrected Classics seal also fit far better, especially the inner. The precision kit felt like it need to be stretched just slightly, but the RC held in place on it's own before adding weatherstrip adhesive and clamping down. The RC seal was pre-cut to provide clearanc for the hinge seals. When I first opened it it seems a bit ugly or poorly done, but after checking fitment it seems to be very well trimmed for correct clearance. Also added new oem style hinge shims when I reinstalled the hatch. The striker on the bottom was adjusted as well. Will need much more work to get the fitment right since the passenger side has a much bigger panel gap despite shoving it over as much as I could, but at least now I can comfortably open and close the hatch without dragging down the seals. Added the rubber stoppers for the door handles to prevent vibration and finally reattached the escutcheon / finisher plastic in the door cups. Looks much tidier and less noisy. Next step here will be to really clean up the door panels from the tiny splatters that I never cleaned from the lizardskin. O2 sensor cable routing was far improved by going through the body harness grommet in the firewall. It's in a safer position away from the driveshaft now. No longer running down the console. Wideband controller grounding was also fixed after I blew a fuse then repeatedly had it blow. Driveshaft was rebalanced. Seems a weight had knocked loose at some point. Was vibrating really horribly on my drive back from SLC with my brother. Replaced the diff pinion seal with a spare I had while the driveshaft was out. New OSG limited slip may not arrive in time for me to rebuild so I wanted to not have that leak in the meantime. Finally added the barb to the turbo intake as a vacuum source for the catch can. Hopefully this resolves any future oil leaking and premature seal and gasket failures. Adjusted the brake pedal travel. The brakes were already a huge upgrade and now it feels even better. Couldn't get it to the FSM's required height, but the suggested pedal height seems excessively tall, so I'll call it good now that the pedal and clutch are even heights and the stoppers are adjusted to make them less noisy. New hardware for the brakes is on the way from T3 and I'm getting some local help to wire up the new electric fans. Futofab HD stub axles arrived yesterday. Very well packaged. The axles should be arriving today, along with the new spare tire from Z Car Garage that will fit in the original spare tire compartment while still working with my new big brakes. More pics and updates to come soon...

Fourth of July 2025 Pearl Harbor Fireworks and Car Show- This Joint Military Forces Fourth of July Celebration was held at Pearl Harbor Naval Base. It consisted of Two County Western Bands , Big Fireworks display and Car Show. There were over Two Thousand People in attendance from 4PM -9Pm. My 240z won 1st Place Trophy in Classic Rod Catalogue, The Event ended with 15 minute Long Fireworks Display over Pearl Harbor. Next- Finishing Details on the 8.8 Conversion

Thanks for the welcome back, this car has certainly had a rollercoaster of a fate over the last 10 or so years of ownership. Excited to build it into the best version of itself (for me). Thanks for the info, seems like Viking is a non-hype brand that offers shocks that do shock things, which I can appreciate. AE is slow on CS communications but that's understandable given the size of their operation. That said, for a ~$9K suspension kit, a bit more transparency and technical detail on their website would go a long way. If I can find a shock with more travel for the same dimensions or when I blow these out I'll swap. JRi's builder series and some of their GM line looks like it would bolt right in, only 0.3" longer extended length which seems negligible in terms of fitment (PN: 100-511-300). I agree, it seems incredibly unwise if that were the case but it wouldn't be the first time I'd seen it. I've seen similar suspension choices in GTAC (cars riding on bump stops) but that's usually done purposefully to keep the aero platform working optimally and not appropriate for a package like this. Considering the shock travel is a mere 3.6", its safe to assume this is an extremely low motion ratio design. It feels like a missed opportunity to fully leverage the bell crank inboard design (traditionally speaking) but perhaps packaging constraints of the S30 chassis left little room for alternatives. I'm hoping the bottoming out feature will be at the upper A-arm which would allow me to mount a 3D printed polyurethane bump stop on top of it. Going to email AE for an update on the wheel rates and now information motion ratios, thanks for the idea.

240Z RESTORATION PARTS IN THE USAI I found this video by Larry Chen about the relative new source of 240Z restoration parts. Their inventory covers body parts,interior plastic panels, grills,etc. If any one have tried their parts, please let us know concerning fit,quality,price and customer service. Their Website pic shows a 240z salvage yard so they might also sell used 240z parts. the company name is Resurrected Classics in Auburn, Georgia.

Welcome back, Carlton...and congrats on the major life changes/accomplishments! Following, as I'm super interested to hear how about the installation and how you like it. Thanks for documenting the process! 👍

Update: I figured out why my RPMs were so low and the IAC wasn't adjusting its steps. My TPS in the Closed-Loop Idle PID Activation Settings, was set at 0.8. The actual TPS was 1.1 that day which meant that the CLI would never kick in when I was sitting in the car at idle. I re-calibrated it and decided to play it safe and set at 1.5. Today the car's CLI worked as intended. I am still dealing with wonky IAC which can be at steps 90 and barely allowing any air in. Also, I noticed that even if I select the MAT table to be used for reference, the ECU was still looking up the CLT settings. I posted this question on the msextra site, maybe it is a code glitch or this is how they designed it or I am missing another table. I might just use the CLT reference table and call it a day. I am posting the updated tune and the drive log. 2025-07-03_12.14.29-drive.mlg 2025-07-03-v104.msq

Thanks for Repairing my PassWord Problem. Is there anything that I need to do prevent this problem from occurring again? Toolman

Love it Ben, great to see the car back on the road and being used as it should be!

Update: replaced the mustache bar bushings, re-torqued the strut lock nuts. I don't hear any more banging noises now. Still not sure what fixed it though. When I was checking my rear Bilsteins with springs compressed, I didn't feel any extra movements to give me that noise. I also swapped my master, slave clutch cylinders and clutch hydraulic hose. The old ones had some 'brake fluid sludge' inside from the internal leakage. I adjusted the clutch pedal at 8 inches (i have a carpet/sound insulation), the master cylinder rod of the replacement unit was the same length, no need for an extra nut. I could put the pedal at the max height (over 9.5 in) and the rod was still good. The free pedal travel is within specs, 15 mm. I was observing the operation of the slave with my $20 endoscope, 15 mm of the clutch pedal before the slave starts its movement. The clutch fork throw is half an inch (12.5 mm). I could push the slave's rod back towards the front, the rod gets back to its self-adjusting position. I did some searching - it sounds like 15 mm is a better number. My reverse and 5th get engaged without grinding noise and without any difficulty. The clutch operation is smooth. I used Rockauto's Luk's: LMC245 and LSC199 parts. Appreciate your guys' help. After fiddling with my closed-loop idle, I am still chasing my tail. I posted a thread on the msextra.com forum at: https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82151 The RPMs get dropped very low, the ECU is not commanding enough steps for my IAC (or it is telling to give, for ex., 60 steps with not much difference). The car is driveable, but with rpms sometimes hitting low 300-400s, which is not good (CLI is not even running when it happens). Here is my updated tune and drive logs if anyone wants to take a peek. Thanks, Den 2025-06-29-v102.msq 2025-06-29-cold-start.mlg

06-28-2025. Putting the new turbo on. With the new turbo to manifold piece, I had to actually remove the intake manifold, put it all together, and then slide the manifold back on. It WORKED! Look at those HUGE ports! I haven't seen them in awhile! That's my Russ Racing prepped and shaved E31 head! I have it almost all assembled, I had to "slip" the top hose clamp up a bit to get a really good seal clamped down. Looks "different" but it is SNUG. I vacuum tested the new wastegate actuator......WAY too high (boost crack at 15 psi !!!) , so I put the older one on, and it boost cracks at only 2.5 psi.,....but I didn't port the turbine housing this time, so keeping that in mind, I think very little boost will be bleed off....enough to protect the engine, but it's going to pump quite a bit of air and fuel! (boost creep expected). The Skillard brake master cylinder heat shield I ordered came in, and is waiting me to custom mod as needed and install. Also went ahead and started clamping down the vacuum hoses to avoid any more hoses blowing off under boost. I have also added on a few pics of my intake ports if interested. Almost done! It is now HOT, have to keep stopping and wiping my face off. I think it was over 86! cheers! pics attached.

Hypothetically, most of the Z forums nowadays are pretty dead. There may be a handful of posts on each one every day. Even though a lot of the information in forums is old, there is still a lot of relevant information on them. It would be sad to see it all get lost. I guess social media or smart phones are to blame. I'm not sure if there was an app for each forum (like a hybridz app) if that would help at this point or not. Everything that is posted in social media pretty much gets lost and is very hard if not impossible to find again, and its mainly just pictures and comments, nothing too technical. Does anyone think that there would ever be a world in which forums would merge before they got totally lost? Like several of the Z forums combining into 1 large Z forum (if that's even possible with the different software they use) to get the handful of people on each one all together so there are decent numbers on one. I worry that one day several of the old forums will cease to exist and all the information in them will disappear forever.

make sure you reinforce the sway bar mounts in the front.

I’m new to this platform so I don’t know anything, lol, appreciate the advice. I’ll add some bracing. I’m planning to run some big sticky tires up front, figured the assistance would be needed, this system has a dial to vary the level of assistance. We’ll see, can always switch back, I’ll hold onto the existing column for a bit just in case.

Yup prolly right ……part of my problem is car is at body shop across the ocean and they want me to solve this issue. Grrrrrrr. Until I can get back there and get eyes on it and give direction all I can do is research and use great resources like this forum. Thanks for the advice.

I don’t mess with Facebook/Instagram too much, just post occasionally, but I certainly don’t go there for technical info, that’s what the forums are for. Is there a way to get the forum hosted or accessed through an app? For example I access the370Z.com through the app Tapatalk and not the web.

Every single off the shelf airdam will leave the front of the tire exposed with ZGs, and they won't line up right where the fender meets the valance meets the flare. You're going to have to DIY it if you want that section to be perfect. You can start with an off the shelf fiberglass one, or take any of them and Jerry rig something if you don't want to make a whole airdam. It's a good idea aerodynamically to cover the front of the tire. Seen many people add a strip of aluminum to the back of the airdam to do this and bridge the gap to the flare at the same time. This is also a bit clunky looking but it is more functional. Dug around in my pics for a few minutes but couldn't find an example. I believe username Heavy85 (first name Cameron, can't remember his last name though) had something like this on his hillclimb 280Z if you want to dig some more. He crashed it maybe 10-12 years ago so there won't be current pics.

I guess the end of the story here is "be the change you want to see". Hype the forums, post on the forums, link to the forums etc. Viewership drives ad dollars which means things will stay solvent and remain online. In that vein, have we done a sticker fundraiser lately? I miss the old HybridZ forum header with the logo too. Can we bring that back?

pm'd you

Searchability, and the loss of a lot of photos because of imgur/photobucket policy changes have been hugely detrimental. Even back in the day, I would use Google to search HybridZ, rather than use the forum search tools. It's tough for sure. I think the forums that are thriving right now have had a strong social component, rather than just knowledge, and don't have a facebook/instagram equivalent.

Yep...on the very long list of things to do.

New to Z cars....man, I would buy a complete driving car, and buy the nicest one you can afford. You don't even know if the Z car bug is going to bite you or not. A project like this is for someone who has been a Dat-Head for a long time, has the room, the money to fund it, and wants a project to fix. The worst thing a guy can do is get a project car and tear it all to pieces. for 99% of the people out there, the project just becomes too big, too overwhelming. Fix things on a car a section at a time, and I would recommend buying a car that really doesn't need anything.....at the age of these cars, they will always need something as you go along.

Thanks for the links, saved me so much extra work. Here's the new layout, seems to operate smooth, clears everything. Hopefully I didn't miss anything important....

Yeah the broken thread links stink. The pictures might be even worse. I always upload my photos to the site rather than link to a hosting service. Threads that are 20 years old still work great if the poster did that.

How do you download it to back it up?

If I know the answer to a facebook post is on here, and I'm not busy at the time, I'll try to put in the link to here, or say its on Hybridz. I don't know if that makes a difference. Once a few years ago, someone asked "What's Hybridz?"

Have you done a build like this before? If you are unfamiliar with Zs, I would suggest buying a running and driving stock or near stock Z, not an unfinished project with a bunch of aftermarket parts. This is one of those things where you really need to be familiar with how they go together. And who knows how many pieces are missing from the project, and how much it'll cost to repurchase all of them one at a time. The shell looks pretty good, some of the parts are decent. Seems like he spent a lot of money on wheels and flares. Looks like probably a stock L28ET in unknown condition, and a set of coilovers from a brand I've never heard of. CX Racing as far as I know is chinese stuff, not sure if it's any good or not, and he lists the turbo as a BW T4 with a value of 600 which makes me think it might be some old journal bearing turbo. He has quite a bit of stuff from Skillard, which I'm not really a fan of, from what I've seen it's mostly sheet metal parts that are only suitable for a race car. The brakes are nothing special. Kinda comes down to personal taste as to whether or not you like the build he's doing. Personally, I'd be building it a lot differently.

Apparently it is not in running condition. So, basically, it is a collection of parts. Looks like he wants about 75% of what he paid for the parts. That seems steep. $28,500/38,290 If you wanted that exact set of parts then you might consider it as a 25% off sale. But since the car is not running you can't tell if the set of parts will actually make a nice car. Not even clear that the engine runs, and it doesn't say anything about engine condition. Besides that you'll need to pay for a paint job for the hood if you want it to look decent, unless you ho with the classic primer black. Also, I don't see the shiny rims on the spreadsheet. They might not be included. Looks like a risky endeavor unless you plan to sell the parts separately for full price. Good luck.

Whenever I answer something on Facebook that has been discussed thoroughly or answered on here, I try to provide a link and mention the name of the site. Maybe "brand awareness" will gain us a few users. I don't think it will ever come back, though. Attention spans are too short. I always have hoped that Dan would give a warning before shutting the site down so that I'd have a chance to download it in full. Maybe I should just start doing a backup every few months just in case that doesn't happen. There's too much valuable stuff here to lose it all.

Ask one of the AI's and see what it says.

I doubt we'll see a resurgence of forum activity. I agree with @Derek, the trend since 2010 or so has been towards short-form social media, soundbytes, instant gratification scrolling, and now AI. Unfortunately e-commerce has basically all but migrated to other platforms as well so it's near impossible to fully unplug if you're looking for parts. We're a small remaining userbase but I think we can at least keep the HybridZ discussion boards alive. Which are good reminders, just put in my donation to HybridZ operating costs and time to put down the phone 😁

I got my hatch hinge seals from Vintage rubber back when those weren't available basically anywhere and they seem pretty good quality. Cheaper reproductions are now available, but after my frustrations with the fitment on a lot of the precision kit I don't think I'd bother. Vintage Rubber's kit is expensive, but it seems like it's far more complete than any other. It has damn near every single piece of rubber you can find on the car. I know for a fact the kit from Resurrected Classics has most of what you could want, but something like the hatch hinge seals aren't in that kit, just as an example. There's one piece that I didn't even have to install to know it's better than most other kits and that's the hood to cowl seal. The Resurrected Classics is a good reproduction of the later style with metal insert so it just sort of clamps on without the need for adhesive. It's longer than necessary though, which isn't ideal for a piece like that where cutting the metal inside is tricky sometimes.

Thanks for the tip, tbh I was probably going to toss it. I haven’t been having much luck selling anything coming of the Z and don’t have much room in the garage. Only stuff I’ve sold has been off the 302 engine such as carbs and headers. I’ll make a spot and hang onto it.

This is the most activity this thread has seen in years, ANOTHER WEEKEND UPDATE! Got the intake welded up, some gasketing on the radiator extractor, and got the car back on the ground. Also got a nut and bolt done on the car. I still need to bleed the brakes, and do a quick fluid check and I'll be in good shape for a few events!

I am designing a DBW actuator for this DOHC now!

Meh, he's a paid supporter of the site. I figured I'll give him his moneys worth

You should really just post on FB because they love trolls and useless posting there

I have two heads in stock as I type this so the head can actually be purchased. I can't help that you can't afford it. That's a feature not a bug. For the very beginning my goal was to provide the components so that talented engine builders could make the decisions on the types of components they wanted to use. Based on what I've seen and taking the pricing of the relatively simple L6 head as the baseline I highly doubt it. I'm not really sure what I did to put a burr under your saddle but you remind me of the guy that starts a fight in the line to get into the club because he can't afford the cover charge. Just get out of line and go somewhere else.

I track my Ford powered 260Z. My personal experience is that transmission gearing is extremely important to getting the most fun on the track. In Florida, you will most likely be doing track days at Daytona and Sebring. Both tracks have very fast sections. Before doing track days, I autocrossed the car. In autocross, you only really need second gear if you have the right differential / tire height. I used Hoosier 275/35-15 tires and have a 3.36 rear end. With a 1.94 second gear in a T-5 and 6,500 rpm, 2nd gear was good for 73 mph. When I started doing track days, I needed all the gears. I had replaced the stock 1st through 4th with G-Force gears and shafts, but fifth gear was still stock. With that set-up, these were my gear ratios. 1st 2.95:1 2nd 1.94:1 3rd 1.33:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.59:1 Worked great until I needed 5th gear. that big a drop absolutely killed the fun (no acceleration in 5th). After my first time a Daytona, I changed 5th gear to 0.81:1. The .81 gear absolutely transformed the car. Now 5th gear is warp drive. The transmission that you show probably doesn't have a good selection of gear ratios, and probably won't hold much power. If it were me, I would get the new TKX with the close ratio rears. That transmission will handle the power and maximize you fun on track. If I didn't already have so much invested in my T5, I would get a TKX. This is the TKX I would get: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TREMEC-TCET18084-TKX-Close-Ratio-5-Speed-Ford-Manual-Transmission,452007.html?srsltid=AfmBOoq-x1paVSDoNvgI38myLy79UBWXzZFW-QeQ4bK1_vWnSHM7bEEJ Gear Ratios 1st - 2.87, 2nd - 1.89, 3rd - 1.28, 4th - 1.00, 5th - 0.81

I started typing a number of snarky responses and have settled on Wow what a shitty thing to say.

Thanks - I think I will be using my stock turbo exhaust manifold and rout the output from the turbo under the engine to go forward through the radiator support to a cross flow intercooler and have the cooler air back thru on the intake side to my Protunerz intake. Looks like I should have no problem...