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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/24 in all areas

  1. Life has been kicking my ass lately! Between my job changing significantly, being super sick, and some significant medical issues with my daughter I haven’t made the progress on shipping orders that I have wanted to. Post here if you’re really itching to get yours and I’ll move it to the top of my list. Otherwise I’m moving along as ordered. I’d like to get these wrapped up so I can transfer the remaining funds over to Dan.
    2 points
  2. We’re going on track this Sunday at Willow springs Will set-up the car tomorrow at a friends shop since they have a flat-level garage floor (which I do not). Also in the middle of adapting the front brakes to 280zx rotor and caliper per EP spec-line. Caliper mounting on the strut assembly will require some welding and drilling, so it will have to wait till after this weekend. Greg Ira was nice enough to ship me some race pads he has that fit the OEM calipers.
    2 points
  3. Hi everyone! I have the shirts and should be able to start getting some out today. I was primarily working from home at least 80% of the time, but my job just got pushed to 60-80% travel so I haven't had breaks at home like I used to.
    2 points
  4. Take your time It’s just merch! You got more important things going on. Good luck my friend.
    1 point
  5. I think you're mixing metric and English units. Nissan spec is .008" and .010" (inches) cold. So you need to make the clearance smaller thus raising the post.
    1 point
  6. Aydin, thanks for the comment. Yes I am aware of this and have made these adjustments before. I did end up determining that I didn't have the rack perfectly centered. Once I made the adjustment, I think I am OK now.
    1 point
  7. If you ever do coilovers again, I would highly suggest having them out of the car for the welder. He would have been able to do a better/ easier job of it.
    1 point
  8. The drums might be rubbing on the backing plates. Not uncommon to get a bend in it when working on the brakes. You'll see a shiny spot.
    1 point
  9. All ITB test fitment is done. Cable mount is perfect, everything is smooth and actuates as good as I hoped. Now time to bolt it down, cut the cable to length and finish some wiring. I lined up the MZR haltech tuner to help me with my tune. It should be interesting to see how good he can get it, especially with my balance bar design and throttle angle. Will the snow melt so I can drive it soon? Probably not.
    1 point
  10. Lower part of the bumper is started. Used a fiberglass gnose to take dimensions from, happy with how everything is coming out.
    1 point
  11. I got my cnc intake and some parts back from media tumbling, it looks almost cast. I am super happy with the finish. Only issue it now shows finger prints.
    1 point
  12. Im still not keeping up -lol Now tuning on a Protunerz intake . Not much different than the last intake but the longer runners help the low end . Something I’ve noticed with ALL these plenum intakes is that the air is not always equal across the cylinders . I am probably one of the very few that has a 6-2 header that continue on to duals AND have a Wideband on each side of the exhaust . The tendacy of these plenums that under high vacuum situations ( idle or lower KPA) , the first 3 cylinders indicate that they run leaner - as if they are stealing the air out of the room . As soon as KPA gets above idle the AFR’s start to even up quickly . Not sure if you could detect this on the plugs unless you ran your engine very lean . The Megasquirt 3X allows for injector trim which I have been adjusting . To get AFR’s to match up between the two banks I add as much as 20% to high vacuum cell areas . It also can be felt by a smoother engine operation . Now this is mostly over- run conditions and light throttle modulation during highway cruise . I’ve checked calibration on my Spartan 14.7 wideband and they seem correct . I have my ego sensors separated by banks . I guess I also wonder why tuner analyze won’t pull in more fuel in these situations , I use the same AFR table for both ego sensors . Just thought this was interesting and most won’t see this with their 6-1 header where it all averages out
    1 point
  13. Installed on the car now. The rest of the interior is just about finished, I'll likely start a separate thread for that as I 3d modeled a few other hard to find parts as well. Also I still have two other sets of the column covers printed if anyone is looking for a replacement.
    1 point
  14. You’ll lose nothing in my opinion, Fuel injection has a tunable acceleration feature just like a pump on the Webbers. I ditched mine for fuel injection and it was way better everywhere and no hundreds of dollars to make a jetting change, just a few click on the keyboard to make changes and tune it. I would never go back.
    1 point
  15. @Gumiho3 If you are referencing this picture then yes that is a green wire that supplies power for the PNP. In my case Hexa Garage never hooked up the wire running from my PNP to the ECU so I was powering that green wire at the plug but it never told to ECU to trigger a start signal and I had to borrow a snap-on diagnostic tool with Nissan protocols to see that, so you may want to bypass your PNP switch entirely and just run a signal directly to that pin on the ECU plug. I’ll check my FSM quickly and get that pinout for you. It is pin #109 (marked it on the image). Remember this pin out is from the harness side so it is as if you are looking through the connector when the wire side is facing you.
    1 point
  16. Those are the new emulsion tubes he created. He also made new idle jets for weak vacuum(normal with a hotter cam) my 2.75L engine produces 275bhp with 45dcoes and 37mm venturies and runs close to a injected engine except the difference in hot/cold and high/low altitude. You can subscribe, give him your engine and dcoe specs, tell him your problem and he will help with a lot of patience and knowledge until it works.
    1 point
  17. @jhm @tube80z helped me out. super simple solution. For anyone in the future, double check the size of the image (1600x1200) is what i resized to
    1 point
  18. also started the new headlight buckets and front end, going to be using aluminum. Going to be going with a gnose styled end. Last side of my intercooler is almost all fabbed, little more welding then need to attach it.
    1 point
  19. Small update. Im probably the most undecided person, made some small changes. Happy with the progress so far.
    1 point
  20. Hey everyone. I developed and 3d printed an adapter to go from the vintage air mini gen II tube to the center vent on the 280z and figured others might want to utilize it as well. I'm figuring $20 and it's shipped to your door (U.S., I don't know about international shipping). for mine I mounted it in a carbon fiber center section so I also can include the stands to offset the air vent and a cut template to utilize.
    1 point
  21. Look up used NASCAR parts on eBay for some stuff (window nets, fire suppression, etc.). I'd check local club newsletters for used parts and any of the facebook groups for used racer stuff. But you probably already know all that. And you can ask around at some of the races/track days to see if you can find anything. Cary
    1 point
  22. Or go a complete new way of tuning with Keith Frank at https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft/topic/100219752#4322 He has a big knowledge of the DCOE carbs and helps to the end of tuning. I went his route and find them way better and easier to tune compared to the original weber. He has his new kind of jets at this store. https://www.webstore.com/user,pgr,82598,ac,82598,owner_id,other_items
    1 point
  23. Well, the big day came this past weekend. Car was road-worthy. Took it for a spin up my local mountain road, and put a massive smile on my face. Front air dam is next, then more suspension adjustment. Need to look into driver safety gear, and would be inclined to source used if possible. Although not really sure if that’s a practical solution. I missed my local annual SCCA driver school, so I’m kind of ****** until next January. Gives me a year of track-days and more time to develop the car I suppose. I may drop-In the 3.1L race motor I developed, since I have no need to confirm with class rules for at least a year. IMG_3781.mov IMG_3782.mov
    1 point
  24. A friend built an endurance car (Chumpcar/Lucky Dog) and was going to use a new Nissan gasket. I talked him into gluing the windshield and was amazed at the results. The difference between this and a normal gasket was the same having a strut bar or not. This car has been used hard, ridden some large curbs, and never cracked a windshield. I'm not saying it can't happen on the street but I'll be gluing in my street car's windshield when we get to that point. Cary
    1 point
  25. I purchased one of their new poly tanks for my 240 that are designed to accept an in tank pump. I thought before I hacked into it I would start a thread to kick around some ideas. Here is my list of areas I want to address: In tank pump. I already have that figured out. I purchased a Tanks Inc. Fuel Pump Assembly Plates GPA-A which will accept my current Walbro pump that resides in my current swirl pot. I haven’t settled in yet on what exact pickup arrangement I want to use and would welcome any suggestions. I’m not auto crossing just spirited public street driving. The stock Walbro pickup may be fine. Venting to handle fuel consumption and fumes. I found a previous thread https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/133662-homemade-gas-tank-venting-design-considerations/ where AydinZ71 mentions using a double check valve arrangement from Mcmaster Carr that allows fumes to escape but still allows air in. I plan on using this method. Fuel level sender that will play nicely with my Speed Hut fuel gauge. This is one of the main reasons I’m switching to this tank. The stock sender just sucks with their gauge. They sell a universal lever style https://speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/fuel-level-sensors/240-33-ohm-resistive-float-fuel-level-sensor/ but I’m not crazy about staying with a lever type sender. There are a variety of 240-33 ohm straight tube senders available. Tanks Inc. sells one just not sure about the quality. Again I would welcome any feedback on this. Venting for filling. This is an area that has vexed me for quite a while. My problem is if I fill the tank in the morning when it’s cool out and drive right to the shop as the Florida day heats up there is enough expansion in the tank that it pushes raw fuel all the way through my expansion tank and it starts dripping out of my open air vent line. The first time it happened I pulled the gas cap and raw fuel came gushing out. I’m pretty much convinced that there is air trapped in the left side of the tank when filling and in fact on my 73 there is a 5/8 diameter ish nipple on the left side of the tank that I had blocked off years ago. It’s there for a reason and I think that’s the reason. Not sure how to solve that with the poly tank since there is no provision for a tube and there is no way to get a bulkhead fitting in there. The second vent is at the top of the tank and feeds into the fill neck to allow air to escape while filling. I Imagine it should be pretty easy to install a bulkhead fitting and hose when I cut the tank to install the pump. Drain plug. If I’m switching to an in tank pump I really would like to have the ability to drain the tank easily. Here again I’m thinking bulkhead fitting. That's about all I have at the moment. Derek
    1 point
  26. Unfortunately, it is too late. Maybe for round 6 in a couple of years Got the shirts in and will start breaking things down and shipping things out next week. This week is busy with work travel, so appreciate your patience while I get a few out each day on my lunch breaks.
    1 point
  27. @NewZed if one were to avoid using a surge tank in the engine bay, I agree. You would have to solve your slosh/starvation issues at the tank. Even a momentary vapor bubble pulled into your fuel line will cause a problem with EFI, if the ~40psi doesn’t cause it to collapse. SU’s, you would be OK to a point, since the fuel dumps into an atmospheric reservoir anyways (float chamber). I am a big fan of the quart surge tank though. S30 has a ton of space up front to choose from, but it would be a struggle to fit Z31+. That’s a heck of a lot of fuel to run-through, and the shape means you will use it all before you pull Vapor into your EFI pump. To be specific, this is my experience with the L28et street Z I have (@16psi). Have not raced yet… I’m just an Engineer that comes-off as a know-it-all, and humbly accept criticism as a result. I don’t mean to be condescending, but I recognize i can be. John and Ben are real racers though cars almost running! Should be hitting the track by Feb (thanks to my California mortgage payment). good luck to the OP! PS: same problem to consider with oil starvation, but it would take significantly more lateral G’s than what it takes to suck Vapor in your tank when <1/3 tank.
    1 point
  28. Alright printer was backed up finishing other projects but finally had time to print a full prototype for the lower cover, fitment is looking good, just need to make one more slight tweak and finalize the best way to print such a large piece. Somewhat off topic but here is some of the other stuff I have been designing and printing: Replacement fender grommets for headlight wiring, same style as OE. Replicated all of the plastic pieces on the Fender mirror reproductions I had, and designed some TPU gaskets to hold new mirrors in place. The housings are powder coated black chrome.
    1 point
  29. I don't know if will help but check out post #36 https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1345592-78-datsun-280z-5-3-build-2.html
    1 point
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