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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  2. 2 points
    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  3. 1 point
    The car has only been out twice since the V8 swap, and this course was much more favorable to the high hp rear drivers so there was a lot more high rpm/rev limiter stuff going on. But yes, this is the first time this has happened. Course was about even right to lefts, maybe a few more rights, but not a lot more.
  4. 1 point
    When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do. Good grief what a lot of work. If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill. Great job. I seem to have said this before on the thread. Keep posting pictures, I hope I speak for others, we love to see the progress. Richard.
  5. 1 point
    It's an old car that looks cool. Some people buy them just to have them in the garage, and never actually drive them. If you're looking for a daily driver, read through the many threads on this site to see what's involved in keeping them running. Looks like you should plan on having two cars for a while. Ideally, the other will be a truck so that you can haul parts, like engines and transmission. And expect to spend some money. Nickels and dimes will add up quickly. If it didn't need time and money he probably wouldn't be selling it. Lastly - do you like your neighbor now? Because you're going to find all of the "previous owner" stuff he did. Or he might be hanging out all the time pining over his old car.
  6. 1 point
    There's been a lot of good replies to your question of how to build your car. I wanted to share some hindsight from a number of projects I've been involved with over the years. In the end you'll decide if any of this is useful or not. 1. One of the toughest decisions you'll be faced with is do you want a street car that can tracked or a track car that's street legal. Those may sound like the same thing but they are from from it. The first involves adding performance using the Z chassis for the most part similar to the Green Hornet mentioned above. The latter is much more like building a chassis and dropping the Z body onto it. This gets you more to a car like the Fairlady Z06 mentioned above. This also determines if you start with a solid chassis or you use one that's nothing more than the roof and doors. 2. Research, research, research. I'm not trying to be funny but you need to have the entire build plan figured out before you start. Then create a checklist and start crossing of items. This research and list will help you build a budget for the car. It may end up being a lot more expensive than you imagine (nothing wrong there) and you may never want an SO to see this spreadsheet. But if you've done your research and stick to your plan you won't but parts two or three times to get the right item. It will also keep you from having to figure certain things out along the way, which really adds up time wise. And lastly it will keep you from having scope creep. The latter can be a real killer of projects. 3. Determine/buy the drivetrain parts last. This is engine, transmission, wheels & tires, etc. If your project takes more than a year to build it's often possible better items will come along or prices in scrap yards will get better. The only time I'd say you can break this rule is if you have determined their is a specific drivetrain you're going to use and it's not going to get any cheaper and in fact may be harder to get later on down the road (L28ET for instance). 4. For the things you can't do find a good professional that can help you. While it's often tempting to use a buddies buddy or someone doing this from their home I've seen a lot of projects get stalled this way. This is generally around body and pain but could also be around having a roll cage built. For any vendors you plan to use take a look around to make sure they have a good track record. I wish you luck and good fortune on building your car. In the end there's nothing better than something you built yourself, well at least to me. Cary
  7. 1 point
    JHM i have been looking through said diagram and it was a big help. Basically I compared the 240 vs 260 and what is actually in my car and was able to get everything working. I now have 12V at the distributor EDIT: when the key is turned on! not all the cabin stuff seems to be working but I don't care because racecar and most of it is still waiting to come out. Yeah I am running my fan, light bar, starter, fuel pump and alternator with new wire/fuses/relays. I'll post it up when i get it done. First order of business is to charge the batter that is putting out 8.8V during cranking... If i actually get the motor to fire I will start the process if getting every looking nice.
  8. 1 point
    Issue fixed, the connector on the yellow wire had also built up a good bit of corrosion. Sprayed some contact cleaning spray in there and plugged it in and it works. Thanks guys for sll the help.
  9. 1 point
    Look at the picture of the temperature sender. The "top" has come off - I could tell that from the black goo oozing out in your pictures. That black "wire" you're pulling out is the internal wiring to the thermistor. It's broken so you don't need to be gentle with it anymore! Pull it out and disconnect the yellow wire from the top of the sender... Remove the nut and pull out the rest of the sender from the thermostat housing. Buy a new temperature sender online or at your local parts store and get it installed. (Save the "hold down" nut just in case the new sender doesn't come with one.) Nissan used the same resistance value for these senders for many years of Z's (and ZX's).
  10. 1 point
    Moving along now. Welded the bung for the removable steering wheel. Finished up the Nascar bars and lower rear valance replacement. Cleaning up older welds, sandblasting doors and hood. The next step is mocking up the doors. I bought used factory hinges so the doors can open rather than be removed, faster in the pits this way. After doors, hatch and hood are mocked up and working well its on to the suspension so we know what to do with the fender flares.
  11. 1 point
    VCT Plumbing Got the hardlines mostly done for the intake phaser control. Went well just tedious and time consuming. The bottom two lines are advance and retard and the top two lines are returns. The center is the feed. They are 5/16 OD which gives me an ID that closely matches the Honda circuit. It started off easy and then I remembered that an alternator needed to sit in there. That made things a little more interesting. The bulkhead fittings worked out great. I chose to use soft aluminum tubing for the interior lines. I knew routing them was going to be a bitch and I wasn’t wrong. Looks a little rough but it will work. Non of the fittings are compressed yet. I’ll lock everything down during the final assembly and then tweak everything so they have clearance. Feeding through the caps turned out to be a better way to go than through the tower bases. I had to redesign the EDIS coil bracket since the valve was now in the way. It’s not as hidden as it used to be but when the throttle bodies and stacks are on it should be buried pretty well. I’m super glad I went this route with the VCT valve. The look of it is exactly what I wanted and he hard lines fit the whole theme of the build. Lots happening over the next few weeks as I try and finish it up and get it back in the car.
  12. 1 point
    Question has been answered many times. There are whole web pages dedicated to your question. Google "r200 swaps" etc. Search HybridZ and classiczcars.com Start here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://www.jasonparuta.com/?page_id=1507
  13. 1 point
    What no pics! Did you take break for awhile?
  14. 1 point
    Yeah HLS30... That's not JDM usually. He might have bought it in Japan, but for the US market, who knows. There's few records. We'd need the full vin to be able to realy search anything. HLS30-004xxx would be an earlier car, but could be a 260z too. If you get us a picture of the Vinplate it'll tell even more since we'd be able to see what the engine is supposed to be etc. That being said, if it's sitting in boxes, then it's a project with no real worth other than parts (I need a decent dash ) until you put it together. Download the FSM off xenons30 and go from there. only you can tell us what you have. We can give you estimates based on what you tell us but until then it's just conjecture. We will be able to tell you what goes where and a general process for putting it together. Obviously we're not going to be able to do it for you, nor would we want to. But don't be thinking you're sitting on a gold mine, unless your car has some really rare parts, such as anything that says 432 on it. Hagarty can help you with insuring it even while it's a project, so you might look into that. Otherwise give us more pictures, We are a hungry lot and a picture is worth 1000 words. Phar
  15. 1 point
    Jhm, thx for the explanation. It had me confused before. The fact that my starter does crank when I apply 12volts directly to the starter where the signal from the ignition switch goes, means that that the ignition solenoid is functioning, right? Tomorrow I gonna get that thing to work, with all this advise. cheers,
  16. 1 point
    FYI, Porterfield offers shoes for the factory drums. https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3986 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=12839 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3985
  17. 1 point
    I wouldn't get too caught up in 50/50. There are ways to get there in other ways to get there via moving things around and it also kind of depends on dynamic movement. You can have 2 cars with 50/50, but if one had the engine lifted a foot higher it would raise the center of gravity and behave poorly etc. I would put the VQ back on the table with that kind of power restriction, there are aftermarket intakes available which you may even need to flip the intakes towards the front. It would be torquey, reliable, and be brand loyal if that mattered. Plus the transmission option is really fantastic for that latter years, it really has a lot going for it.
  18. 1 point
    Made a call recently about certain parts. Seemed excessively priced, even compared to some higher ebay prices, but the support and conversation was definitely great. If I wasn't so budget minded I definitely wouldn't mind buying there. Think everything was recently moved. There's always an ad on craigslist for the same stuff.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve. The R200 has no crush sleeve. The spec is RFT, I want to say it's something like 150 - 200 ft lbs. I always use red loctite on the nut the put my impact on 5 and hit it, empty the compressor until it fills, then hit it again. Never had any issues.
  21. 1 point
    What year S30? The early-year cars came with open R180s, and some of the last year cars came with R200s. I don't believe any of the standard differentials were LSD from the factory. Most people putting down serious power in straight-line applications use the R200...it's quite a beefy unit. There are quite a few threads here about the different options available, so search and you should find all the info you could possibly want, and make sure you check out the pinned threads too. Hope this helps.
  22. 1 point
    I searched this topic myself for a long time and finally bit the bullet and went with 225/50 15 Toyo Proxes R888r. I do not like the thread pattern on the Kuhmo all season tires so this was the only option at a decent price. I don't think I will be taking this car to the track any time soon but I really like the look of this setup and I needed to get new tires when I bought the car. Instead of spending money for tires on the original Mag wheels I just got wheels and tires all at once. I know these tires will not last many miles, but I don't plan on daily driving this car. I don't know why it was difficult to get examples of the fitment on 15x8 Rota RKRs being as it's such a popular setup for 240zs (S30s in general). My car was lowered on Tokico 1050 springs (discontinued) I'm not sure what the drop is as it was done by previous owner. I did have to roll the rear fenders a bit as there is a bit of rub when it goes over bumps. Excuse the dirty car. Ed.
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