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Showing most liked content since 12/22/17 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hey, that's me! Message sent. Thanks for looking out everyone.
  2. 1 point
    ^I think that would be kind of nice, along with yellow octopus's note. If someone was curious they could find the build list with links to specific threads, whether that is original content or a thread that helped shape their decision. Any feedback from Dan? I know he is a busy guy, but is this helpful? I know comments can even with the best of intensions be unwanted at some point. I think all of us here want this forum to survive, it would be nice if maybe our efforts could be directed towards specific problems.
  3. 1 point
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 1 point
    Best to start a new thread for this as not to clutter up his build thread
  5. 1 point
    Finished the stitch welding....nice to have that chore done....and moving forward at my normal glacial pace. Started building the supports for the main hoop of the roll cage. I included close-ups of this because I couldn't find much in detail about how people built these up on prior projects, hopefully some day someone might find the pictures useful. I pondered a bit wondering the best way to do it. I am using 12-gauge (.100") steel....which meets the SCCA requirements that cage bases be at least .080" thick. Thanks for looking.
  6. 1 point
    Not mine but you can try this ad: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/d/240z-260z-280z-whaletail-wing/6452838157.html
  7. 1 point
    Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
  8. 1 point
    Interesting shots of the engine too. I was surprised to see that it's a single throttle body and seemingly tiny intercooler. Looks like it has some sort of water or alcohol injection too.
  9. 1 point
    Lumber arrived last Friday. Now if it would just stop raining long enough for me to do some framing.
  10. 1 point
    Well I think I'm averaging one post a year so here it is. First I'd like to thank those that pointed out the issues with the roll cage. When I took the car to the fabricator he mentioned the same thing and even said it was dangerous. So for those looking to follow in my footsteps don't install the cage like that. Now to the fun stuff. The car spent 3 months at the fabricator getting the following items taken care of: 1. Custom intercooler mount and piping 2. Radiator mounted along with piping 3. Full exhaust off the downpipes 4. Modified the 350z bellhousing to accept the Collins Adapter, custom shifter linkeage and Datsun Roadster starter 5. Modified diff mount 6. Mounted S2000 seats 7. Complete AC system!! I'll install the front airdam, driveshaft, pulleys before it heads off for tuning. It's looking like I'll be able to get it tuned in a couple months after my car fund recovers.
  11. 1 point
    A few vids of some recent action with my 240Z racing with NASA AZ and Thunderhill Nationals. I had to start from the back on this race, made up good ground but that's as far as I got that race. Severely outgunned at NASA West Coast Nationals 2017 (Thunderhill). The competition was brutal and all on their home track. Just screwed up is all. This was a fun lap battling with Ricky Johnson in his turbo Mini. I got past him a few laps later, but he wasn't giving up...
  12. 1 point
    Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  13. 1 point
    Suncentral Z Car Club has a Facebook page. Hit them up, lm sure they would love to have you as a member.
  14. 1 point
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  16. 1 point
    ...Or "skimp" Scrimps are delicious, though.
  17. 1 point
    Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
  18. 1 point
    Yes I found that I get around a 1/10 of the adjustment out of the camber plates vs adjustable control arms. I think I wait to use the KMAC plates if I ever do a coilover conversion.
  19. 1 point
    Hi guys, New to the Z world, I just bought this car from a gentleman in Illinois. Seemed like he really cared about the car but had to let it go. I'm not sure if he was a poster on this forum but he did mention it. It's a 1975 280z. Most of this is quoted from the seller's listing. There's a lot more to say but here's the meat and potatoes. 1. 1999 GM LS1 from Trans Am with 118,000 miles, GM unlocked computer, PSI Conversions harness New water pump, oil pump, timing chain, starter, rebuilt injectors (Oside Tiger), fuel pump (MSD), fuel regulator, (Corvette regulator and filter) Sanderson ceramic coated headers, MSD plug wire with heat boots, braided AN fuel line, PSI harness,new valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, silicone intake hoses, K&N filter, LS6 converted valley cover, new starter 3” into 2.5” all stainless, tig welded exhaust with Vibrant resonator and Magna Flow muffler, all connections are V-bands. 2. Professionally rebuilt 4L60E transmission and torque convertor (less than 500 miles), OEM Camaro shifter with custom weldedand smoothed shifter box housed in trans tunnel, custom solid brass shift knob (looks like a manual), shortened shifter, JCI drive shaft, OEM rear end. The rear suspension is stock for the most part with exception of T3 coilovers and all poly bushings. 6. CUSTOM one-off American Racing forged wheels, model VN477, satin black 17x9 and 17x9.5 Brand new Continental Extreme DWS tires 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear Custom yellow “continental” tire letters Technotoy Tuning coil overs (front and rear), front lower control arms, TC rods, triangulated front strut bar (not installed) SilverMine Motors Wilwood brake conversion, front and rear, powdercoated red Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve Technotoy front camber plates
  20. 1 point
    Just a footnote: two additional door bars are being added as well as a jacking point. We agree about the diagonal bar, however this design has been used on many cages that have all passed tech. The cage was actually built by a former Nissan Off-Road team fabricator.
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