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Showing results for tags '280z'.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with 3.1L stroker in Infiniti Beryllium -
Hello guys, I am in the process of replacing the heater core on the 77 280z. I have removed just about everything but now I'm stuck on how to remove the cooper wire that goes into the heater valve. can someone tell me the best ware to remove it without damaging the cooper wire. it seems to be in the way of removing the side door to pull out the heater core. See the picture I have provided.
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ok I am going to blow through a lot of questions here I have a 1971 240Z i upgraded the alternator and now my dash and running lights stay on anytime the key is on what could cause this? Second last monday i swaped a 79 280 f54block n42 head with the biggest cam you can get without going to larger valve springs i bought the motor this way i put my brand new ztherapy 4 screw su carbs on it with the msa 6to1 header and the orignal bosch distributer and e12-80 module but it wont run right it backfires through the carbs when you rev it I did get it to run the other day long enough to set the valves at .012 exhaust .010 intake but Im not sure the coil is right it has a pretronix 3.0 ohm coil from the kit I put on the 240 motor when i got it i also tried a crane cam lx91 and it got worse so I switched back to the pretronix my plug gap is .042 i just need a starting place iv done everything i know how to do to no avail. what am I not seeing?
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Background: Long story short, wasn't interested in cars until I got screwed over by a dealership replacing an alternator shortly after moving to Maine from Ireland. Found a '84 300zx for $300 on Craig's and proceeded to teach myself the dark arts of car wrenching, and consequently fell in love with Z cars/Group B/Rally/Hillclimbing Fast forward a few years, I picked up a 1970 240z with some track prep work done and it begun: Cars 1970 240z: 2.6l engine Mikuni ph44 carbs Battery relocate. MSD Ignition Rota Grids with Toyo Proxxes Put cosmetic (Flat Black paint), small amount of mechanical work (New clutch, relined tank, new Holley Red FP, FR, SS lines) and new shoes on the car to prep for the New England Hillclimb Association 2015 season. Work and life got the better of me and only got to one race. Car performed pretty good and the driver got a lot better over the weekend. Couple of issues raised their heads over the race weekend: Keeps popping out of second gear. Power-band not right. 1st, 2nd great to 6500rpm, go to 3rd and bogs down bad. Last two races, kept stalling in low rpm and overheating - I believe this was from running out of fuel and picking up something in the carb. Need a full roll cage if I keep racing it; wife and kids agree. The last bullet is how I happened upon the 280z. After pricing a cage and always being on the hunt for a deal I came across this 1976 280z in a wrecker yard in MA. Something caught my eye on the Craig's post - I had been lurking on Hybridz for many years and thought had seen the chassis before. Upon viewing it was indeed one of RB240zDET's builds. I was able to get the car and good price and figure the project would be worth my time. 1976 280z - as it stands: Tubular frame chassis. R33 rear subframe and R230 diff. RB20DET engine mated to GTS trans. Lexus SC400 front end. Probably a bunch more I have yet to document. Link to PO frame build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102035-rbs-builds/ Link to RB20DET PO: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94498-just-a-few-pics-of-what-i-have-been-up-to/ Current Winter Plans: 1970 240z - Clutch fan delete./Install aluminum rad and dual fan setup. Find a 5-speed (Anyone got one?) More aggressive cam for hillclimb racing Carb rebuild New fuel cell and sender install. Go racing 1976 280z - Verify and finish engine wiring. Get engine to run or at least show some life. Pull said engine and trans. While deciding if to keep engine or not; fix some weld, blast frame and prime. Select engine. (Open to offers on the RB20DET if anyone is interested.) Build monster. Go racing. Garage - 100A Subpanel 5kw Heater. 40A circuit 208v for welder. A few 20A 110v circuits. Insulation Sheetrock Paint Some sort of shelving system for organization. Any comments, suggestions, critique is welcome. Seán
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My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
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I have been searching for a certain yellow for my '77 280Z as I am getting ready for paint. I am contrasting the yellow with black and carbon fiber. I cannot find a color code for the certain type of yellow I am looking for. The closest I came to deciding on a color was Mercedes Solarbeam Yellow but as I am unable to see it in person, I have my doubts that that is the right color. I am aware that the color will most likely be a pearl and I am fine with that. I'm just trying to stay away from that bright lemon yellow lol. All suggestions or advice would be much appreciated.
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Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
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Finished my MS1 3.57 install but have a few issues. 280z, just figure everything stock except 420cc injectors. 1. Tunerstudio and the MS ecu lose comm during cranking. The main relay has power during cranking, maybe down to 10 or 11v but still good power. 2. No tach signal. Pin 24 (white) goes straight to coil negative JP1 is jumpered 2-3, J1 is jumpered 3-4 Would anyone recommend using one of these to isolate a good signal? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8910/media/instructions 3. Would I have better luck taking the tach signal from the oem ignition control unit? When cranking and watching multimeter on the neg side of blaster 2 coil its spitting out all kinds of voltages, 12v, 8v, 10v,14v... Everything ran fine with the carb, ignition has not been touched. And why am I not permitted to upload my msq tune or logs to here?
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I'm looking for a 5-spd transmission from a 280z to put into my 240z. Where is the best place to find one (or do you have one for sale) ? I browsed through ebay and craigslist but didn't really find anything. Also noticed that neither MSA nor Whitehead carry them. Thank you!
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake. -
1977 280z project looking to turn this car into a auto cross/canyon/daily driver really hopeing to get some help from everyone on the forums and it would really be appreciated any words of wisdom or welcomed as a newer z owner as myself has much to learn. Will upload more pictures as time goes by in the build I went with a plan to start from the inside out and go from there so as of now the whole interior is stripped to bare metal and looking to just tidy it up on the inside with a coat of paint and a performance seat soon
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Hey Guys! My name is Chapin, and im a 19 year old collision repair and refinishing student from Iowa! I was going to post in the new members, but i will be posting updates and photos as i go, Im also looking for input from experienced members! I purchased a 1976 Datsun 280z recently. I haved always loved the s30 body lines and decided to find one that i could rescue. The car needs plenty of body work but im not concerned, it still has a reasonable paint job but being that it was driven for several years in Minnesota it will need a touch of rust repair or replacement. The motor was stripped of the factory fuel injection, (I assume the owner ran into problems) and installed was a Holley 390 4 Barrel and Arizona z car intake. Ive had some time trying to figure out the carb, but with some help ive got the car up and running with a slight timing issue. One question is: Im not sure what route is the best in this situation, my ultimate goal is to restore and also build a classic car. And im looking into all sorts of motor swaps. basically my thoughts are * Rebuild with triple weber carbs * sr20 * later zx turbo motor * buy an l28/rebuild I just wanted to say Hey! and let you know that im anxious to learn! Im also open to some paint color ideas im sure i havent thought of every color! but right now im leaning towards the Emerald Green Metallic
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Hey guys, This is the journey of my 1974 Datsun 260z to where it currently stands and where it is headed. I hope you enjoy! This was the car when I first got it... It was a good running car that was fairly "clean" with the exception of some hidden rust. I drove the car like this for a couple of years before I really got the itch to modify it. To start things off, my carbs started leaking so I rebuilt the round top already on the car. The outcome: Nice new carbs and a sad looking engine bay. (Ignore the wheel in the background, we will get to those later...) With the production of the BC Racing coilovers, I decided it was time to pull the car apart for a few updates in the winter of 2014/2015. It would share a space with an old Austin Healey Mini for the winter. With it up on Jack stands, the intentions were to go through the bushings, suspension and address the rear brakes. Along the Way I also picked up a set of Wilwoods for the front which are still having brackets fabricated. I acquired a Silvermine rear disc brake conversion, BC Racing coilovers, & some Prothane Bushings and work began. With all of the parts acquired that I wanted/needed for the winter ahead, I came across a pretty rair set of wheels that I would snatch up: 15x9 3-Piece Revolution RFX's that the previous owner had painted the faces of a House of Kolors Green. At first, I hated the color of the wheels but they have since grown on me a bit. With everything ready for the winter project, I started tearing the car apart... [/url With all of the suspension pulled off and the struts sectioned, I started assembling the front coilovers. The shop I had weld them had some pretty ugly welds that I ended up having to grind down. I also wire-wheeled the knuckle assembly and painted it for a nice finished look. I also went on ahead and wire-wheeled and painted the brake dust shields while I was at it... Finished Products:
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Hey All, I've searched all over for this topic and can't quite find what I'm looking for. Part of it may be my being green in the drivetrain area. I took a 76 280z (CA) and put the motor and 5spd from a 77 280z (2+2) in. After getting everything in place, the car drives and goes through gears 1-4 okay. It won't go into 5th no matter what and has a little trouble with reverse. From what I've read this sounds like a shift fork replacement is in order. I don't see any interference issues with the shifter and tunnel. 1) Would you put your money on this needing a fork replacement? 2) If so, I assume this requires pulling the trans... I'm a little hesitant with my skill level to make any assumptions at this point and start dissecting 3) Any guides or advice on approaching this? Note: I do have the 4 speed I pulled out of the car if there is anything I can use from it. Sorry for the naivety... I'm dying to finally get some summer fun out of this thing. Thanks!
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Hi everyone, I've been getting some advice in the build thread I've got going but figured this would be the better place to chase after the issues I'm having since it's more technical and a better setting to get pointers of what to look for. So the background: 1976 280z with an 11/75 build date if it matters. Effectively stock, save for a few minor things and an L28ET. A couple issues that are electrical-related: 1) The system does not seem to be charging. Charge light was off with the car running. I ran the engine for a bit and noticed the fuel pump kept getting louder and the engine running rougher so I turned it off and found that the battery read ~11.3 volts. Checked the wiring at the alternator and it checked out so I started the car again and tested voltage at the battery and the alternator positive post. Both read ~11.3 volts. Had the alternator and battery both tested at O'reilly on their machine and it said it checks out, though I know that isn't a final judgement on whether or not an alternator is really working properly or not. By that point I had assumed it was the voltage regulator. Replacements aren't easy to get and they're either expensive or the shipping costs more than the unit. By the time that would all be said and done I figured I would be better off buying an internally regulated 280zx alternator. The alternator is a reman. unit from O'reilly that was on the old engine before without issue. Is there something else I could be missing here? I got a longer bolt/screw for the "E"/ground post of the alternator since the old one couldn't hold the wire and the capacitor at the same time. Is there some chance that the one I used isn't allowing the alternator to get a proper ground? I've also read things about how if the battery isn't charged enough the alternator won't charge, but I doubt that was the case since it seemed that the battery was at good voltage but gradually draining. I'm tempted to pull the trigger on a new internally regulated alternator and throw it in, but I would rather have someone point out what I can't seem to see is wrong before I spend the money on it. 2) The tachometer and oil/water gauge are not working. I know I have oil pressure as I verified that before starting the engine. The sending unit is new and I know it's getting oil. The stock tachometer coil signal wire is hooked up and I verified it at the resistor under the passenger side of the dash. Also verified continuity and resistance in the resistor. As far as I can tell, the gauges are getting the signal, they just aren't being powered. The lights do come on but after reviewing the wiring diagram those seem to be on a separate circuit anyway. According to another forum member, the 4th fuse down on the left side of the fuse panel provides voltage to the gauges. The fuse is fine and has continuity, though I don't get voltage on either side of the fuse. After checking where the fuse gets power from, it seems to be hooked into switched voltage from a black and white wire that is spliced in at multiple points throughout the car. Here's where it gets interesting, though. The fuse that provides power to the voltage/fuel gauge also appears to be fed by that wire, and I know my voltage/fuel gauge is working. I feel like I'm going crazy trying to track down the cause of the issue since every lead (no pun intended) I find ends up in me thinking that it should be working fine. Any advice is appreciated as always. Like I always say, HybridZ is the place I turn to when all my efforts seem to be getting me nowhere. - Pac Man
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Title pretty much says it all. I like the OEM vents but will consider aftermarket ones. Located in Everett, WA. Just PM me here. Thanks!
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I am looking for a cheap, running and driving v8 swapped Z. It can be ugly but I do not have the equipment to do a swap. I have the skills and equipment to give it some TLC such as suspension and paint. A decent interior would be nice. I am young and broke, but will take good care of it.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker next to 1970 Mustang Grande with 351 Cleveland -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
I finished my l28et swap and she runs beautifully! The only thing I don't have is the tachometer wired up. Anyone know where the tachometer wire is located? Preferably someone that has done it already. Here's some picture if it helps at all.
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Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
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WTB a l28et swapped Z. Please post pics of what you have or link a thread. Location does not matter i will fly out to it. No projects please looking for one that is good to go.
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Hello guys I have a 77 280z and when I went to start it today I got nothing. I have a new battery, new distributor, new alternator and a year old voltage regulator. I have lights in my dash and dome light. Head lights are nice and bright. When I turn the key I get nothing. I usually have a beep when I turn the key. I went and replaced the back part of the ignition today and still nothing with the new one. I will take the whole assembly to locksmith and see if it's the cylinder or what. Can anyone shed some light on what else to check?
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So yesterday, my car was totaled. I was at a red light at the bottom of a bridge, and on the left lane there was a guy who was pushing his car because he was having car problems. 30 seconds into waiting for the red light to turn green, I looked into my rearview, I saw a Honda coming at me at least 45 mph. I saw him 2 seconds before he hit me, so I braced for impact. He pushed me to the other side of the intersection. I tried to exit the car but the feders trapped the door, so I climbed out the window. I went up to the driver and asked what happened with him and told him off for being reckless. He told me that he was distracted by the guy pushing his car because he wanted to help him out. So I called insurance and cops took a report. Today the adjuster came and said the car is a total loss. He said they'll get back to me within a few days with an offer. I've put a lot of time and money restoring this car, but I have a feeling they will try to lowball me. Has anyone had a similar experience? How much were you compensated? How can I make sure I get back what I put in?
