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  1. Looks like the starter on my 1975 280z is going bad and before looking for a 280z starter I was wondering if there were any upgrades. I found another forum where someone mentions that a 300zx starter fits the 280z but it's an old post and no one ever went into detail or talked or asked about it after that one suggestion. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about doing this, would it just be a straight bolt on? Would it require any kind of rewiring? Should I just stick with a 280z starter? Thanks in advance!
  2. So I have a 1975 280z that if I turn it on and let it sit it idles just fine, but as soon as I press the brakes it starts to idle very roughly and if I hold the brake down long enough without stepping on the gas it eventually just dies. Anyone have any ideas they could maybe help me with on this?
  3. Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
  4. MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  5. Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  6. Hey guys, quick question. I have an L28ET in my car (with MS) and I am upgrading to supra injectors, the 7mgte ones. From what i have researched, they are 440cc and work with a pallnet 11mm rail, which I just ordered from him. I am confused as to what impedance I need. Here's what I currently believe to be true: L28ET injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor pack to make them work. 7M-GTE injectors are also low impedance, and should be used in my system with my current resistor pack. However, all the 7m-gte injectors on eBay (don't worry, not ordering from there) are listed as high impedance. I just don't want to order the wrong injectors, is there anyone who is running the 440cc injectors on an L28ET who can chime in to what their wiring system is? I don't want to order them before I at least have some answer.....There is so much weird and confusing information out there about this stuff. Thanks in advance!
  7. Hello Im Will and this is my 75 280Z the day I recived it as a birthday gift from my dad the the original owner. And this is my dad the day he bought the car in 1975. In 1990 my dad made the choice to do a sbc swap in to his z and this was the result A nice but low cost swap that has stood up to the test of time . Over the years the car has had many different carb setups but this was the state of the motor when I got the Z. And its a bit tired and needs some new life breathed in to it , and thats just what i am going to do . Please feel free to offer helpful tips and tricks and any advice thanks Will S.
  8. I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  9. I am swapping a VG30E into a 1975 280z. I'm doing a megasquirt setup and I am wondering if anyone has a base map that they would be willing to share with me for the VG.
  10. Hi everyone, I have an R200 that I am trying to build up and it's missing the companion flange at the front of the diff. If anyone has an old diff they won't be using and can remove one, that would be great. Contact me. Greg Ira
  11. Version V1


    Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct.
  12. Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new one. I am new to things like megasquirt and tuning so I'm not too sure where I should begin at all, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.
  13. Welcome gentleman! (+Ladies?) I have had my '76 280Z for a few years now. Ran a bigger turbo L28 for all the time I've had it. I have recently restored the body and paint, I now need the heart and brains to go with this broad of mine. I have just pulled out my L28 and now need to have a few questions answered. Here is my situation: I can attain a full GTO/C5 LS2/T56 from salvage auction. Or I have a few local engine options I can go with. But I can't find a T56 for the life of me (in Canada, just over the pond from Detroit, A.K.A the gutter of Ontario) First question: I have taken the ECU box of out the drivers side and fed the engine harness through and have taken it all of from the engine. The passenger side however - do I take ALL of the harness out? The pass. side routes to the starter, body grounds, this junk fuse panel (for lights?) alternator, lights, turning signals, etc; do you guys take that all out and run a whole brand new harness from the passenger side connections under the glove box? I've heard of the EZwiring kit, is that something to run for the lights/signals with the LS? Secondly: if I were to go with the LS2 from the salvage car is there somebody or a company that revamps the harness for these engines? My goals for this swap are simple. Have a GOOD running engine and car in a whole. I don't need a wireless engine bay, just clean. I don't need over 450hp either. I want the engine and harness set up to be reliable as possible for I am wanting to go on long drives with this and drive it almost daily in good weather. I want everything I need (aside from odds and ends)before I start putting the LS in. I am going with the JCI mounts and drive shaft for what it's worth as well. I have a good amount of money set aside for this whole ordeal, it my 4th engine swap (rb20, SR engines previously) so I know how somethings are done,! but I do not want to cut any corners with this swap. I want things done right and done right the first time. I have also been looking at a million threads on this but I can't seem to find a few things I want to now. I already have more questions but I want to see the reply I get with this first. Thank you very much for your time and effort in advance. Cheers.
  14. So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes
  15. I need a 280Z front grill to go on my chump car. Please message me if you have one you'd sell. Thanks, Greg
  16. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  17. UPDATE: After completing the install my alternator isn't charging the battery. Please see the post at the bottom of the page So I have a '75 280z and recently I've noticed my headlights get brighter when I rev the car. (Both in neutral at stand still and in motion) I also noticed that my dash lights and interior lights get brighter as well. The headlights are also very dim whether or not the car is revving or not, revving only brightens them a little and overall they're still dim. The A/C fan also gets louder and blows harder when revving. So somehow all of these problems are connected to something and I'm at a loss on what to do next. I've been reading a lot about this and my best guess is there's a problem with the grounds. If so, where are the grounds located? My problem isn't with the lights/fan getting brighter, but a possible problem with low voltage getting to these systems at idle (or in general) What do you guys think could be the source of all this? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I'm new to electrical gremlins and it's all especially confusing to me. Thanks for any help
  18. Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
  19. Hi Guys Can anyone tell me the engine origin of the codes cast on L6 crankshafts. Is there a list I could look up? I bought a lot of stuff from Electromotive in the late 80' early 90' when they were clearing out their racing Z program. I have 15 cranks of various type including P30 and E31, even some with no cast marks.
  20. Looking to buy a front wheel hub for a 280Z. Went to replace front wheel bearings and discovered that the inner race no longer seats snugly on one of my hubs. Seems some movement still allowed even when a new race is seated in place. If anyone has a spare they'd be willing to sell, I would appreciate it. Thanks
  21. I have an old school JTR conversion i started ~15 years ago. (No LS's motor's back then!) After i put 1,000 miles on the car i transferred to Australia. You can see that effort here: http://aka.ms/chuckscar In the process of driving it to the storage facility the fuel line was pushed off the regulator spraying fuel on the headers and -well you get the idea instead of a Datsun going into storage i have a burn victim. Fast forward to today with a couple of mice playing house in the rear quarter panels for the last decade+ resulting in some slow cancer I am trying to figure out what to do w/ the car. So far i have changed the carb from the Edelbrock to a brand new Summit Racing/Holley 750cfm vacuum secondary carb, ran a fuel line to to plastic bottle w/ a hand pump, pulled the plugs gave it a shot of Oil in the cylinders, turned it over for a minute without the coil, put the spark plugs back in and started it -YEAH! At this point the plan is to strip it down, fix the rust, reshoot it and make it into a sunny day toy. My question is should i start a single build thread or post as i progress? Thanks Chuck
  22. Another pipe dream? Possibly. Another inexperienced V8 280z fan asking already answered questions? Definitely. So let's get started and see what you all have to say, shall we? Disclaimer: the guy behind this computer screen has no mechanical/engineering knowledge/skills/abilities/powers and is merely a mortal with an obsession with the 240/260/280Z cars (they're so, so, sooo sexy) so if you can find it within yourself to not COMPLETELY destroy my child-like dream, it would be much appreciated! As stated above, I have no mechanical experience beyond the very basics: changing sparks plugs, oil, fuel, and air filters, brakes, and putting gas into the gas tank. Several of my close friends and family members are mechanics, however, and others have done various performance modifications to their cars (mostly Mustangs). These people will be beside me every step of the way if this fantasy gets put into motion. The goal would be a reliable LS3 280Z that must be street friendly and would spend little time at an actual track. There's a stroked LS3 from Late Model Engines that has been increased to 416 ci and is putting out 626HP. If anyone knows of it, would it be considered a reliable, street friendly engine? Would it be any different installing this into a Z than a non-stroked LS3? What modifications would be needed for this specific engine (transmission, headers, exhaust, tires, ECU, etc) to handle that power and put it to the ground? What is the recommended tire size for a build like this? What would be the biggest available brake size for the recommended tires? Any other comments on something I'm missing would be appreciated to fill in the gaps. Just off the top of my head, assuming a rust-free 280Z chassis can be found for around $7,000, the Stroker LS3 costing around $16,000, plus the cost for other necessary upgrades and modifications, the cost for something like this, especially since I'm inexperienced and would have to pay for installations and fabrications, would be somewhere in the neighborhood of $30,000 for a complete build. Would you all say my assumption would be correct? Any comments? Yeah this is probably absurd. If you all know of other cheaper, easier, and non forced induced builds that can achieve similar power output, please direct me!. Don't even get me started on dreaming about making it all-wheel drive...
  23. Week 1 (Just one Saturday): Purchased rolling shell. Week 2 (Friday and Saturday): Tear-down and removal of all that old dry hard sound deadening
  24. Hey guys, I've got a 78 280Z with a V8 in it but my goal is to style it in JDM fashion, big flares, airdams, spoilers etc. I have a build log you can check out here: www.vvise.net/z.php I'll try to keep this thread up to date with an image or two when I make progress on the car. Just last night I rebuilt all my gauges with new white faces that I made and LED lights. I think the effect is amazing.
  25. I just bought a 1975 Datusn 280z and i drove it home. It ran well beside the exhaust leak that i will be attempting to fix in the future. I took off the front and rear bumpers first thing. I had to remove the gas tank to remove the rear bumper shocks. After reinstalling the tank, i put some gas in for a total of around 3 gallons. The engine took a while to start and ran kind of crappy so i thought it might need more fuel so i put 2.5 gallons more in. It started and idled fine so i figured it i would drive to gas station to fill up. less than a 1/4 mile from house it started cutting out on me. I started to turn around and it died a few times before I got it back home. I put 2.5 gallons more in the next day and it would idle fine for a long time but still cut out when i tried driving it once it got to higher rpm. I cleaned out the fuel filter and then it ran good for about 3 or 4 high rpm pulls before it started to cut out again. this time it started to idle kind of crappy too. Anyone have any advice? it never cuts out at high rpm when idling though, its just under load. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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