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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake. -
1977 280z project looking to turn this car into a auto cross/canyon/daily driver really hopeing to get some help from everyone on the forums and it would really be appreciated any words of wisdom or welcomed as a newer z owner as myself has much to learn. Will upload more pictures as time goes by in the build I went with a plan to start from the inside out and go from there so as of now the whole interior is stripped to bare metal and looking to just tidy it up on the inside with a coat of paint and a performance seat soon
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Hey guys, This is the journey of my 1974 Datsun 260z to where it currently stands and where it is headed. I hope you enjoy! This was the car when I first got it... It was a good running car that was fairly "clean" with the exception of some hidden rust. I drove the car like this for a couple of years before I really got the itch to modify it. To start things off, my carbs started leaking so I rebuilt the round top already on the car. The outcome: Nice new carbs and a sad looking engine bay. (Ignore the wheel in the background, we will get to those later...) With the production of the BC Racing coilovers, I decided it was time to pull the car apart for a few updates in the winter of 2014/2015. It would share a space with an old Austin Healey Mini for the winter. With it up on Jack stands, the intentions were to go through the bushings, suspension and address the rear brakes. Along the Way I also picked up a set of Wilwoods for the front which are still having brackets fabricated. I acquired a Silvermine rear disc brake conversion, BC Racing coilovers, & some Prothane Bushings and work began. With all of the parts acquired that I wanted/needed for the winter ahead, I came across a pretty rair set of wheels that I would snatch up: 15x9 3-Piece Revolution RFX's that the previous owner had painted the faces of a House of Kolors Green. At first, I hated the color of the wheels but they have since grown on me a bit. With everything ready for the winter project, I started tearing the car apart... [/url With all of the suspension pulled off and the struts sectioned, I started assembling the front coilovers. The shop I had weld them had some pretty ugly welds that I ended up having to grind down. I also wire-wheeled the knuckle assembly and painted it for a nice finished look. I also went on ahead and wire-wheeled and painted the brake dust shields while I was at it... Finished Products:
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Hey Guys! My name is Chapin, and im a 19 year old collision repair and refinishing student from Iowa! I was going to post in the new members, but i will be posting updates and photos as i go, Im also looking for input from experienced members! I purchased a 1976 Datsun 280z recently. I haved always loved the s30 body lines and decided to find one that i could rescue. The car needs plenty of body work but im not concerned, it still has a reasonable paint job but being that it was driven for several years in Minnesota it will need a touch of rust repair or replacement. The motor was stripped of the factory fuel injection, (I assume the owner ran into problems) and installed was a Holley 390 4 Barrel and Arizona z car intake. Ive had some time trying to figure out the carb, but with some help ive got the car up and running with a slight timing issue. One question is: Im not sure what route is the best in this situation, my ultimate goal is to restore and also build a classic car. And im looking into all sorts of motor swaps. basically my thoughts are * Rebuild with triple weber carbs * sr20 * later zx turbo motor * buy an l28/rebuild I just wanted to say Hey! and let you know that im anxious to learn! Im also open to some paint color ideas im sure i havent thought of every color! but right now im leaning towards the Emerald Green Metallic
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Hi everyone, I've been getting some advice in the build thread I've got going but figured this would be the better place to chase after the issues I'm having since it's more technical and a better setting to get pointers of what to look for. So the background: 1976 280z with an 11/75 build date if it matters. Effectively stock, save for a few minor things and an L28ET. A couple issues that are electrical-related: 1) The system does not seem to be charging. Charge light was off with the car running. I ran the engine for a bit and noticed the fuel pump kept getting louder and the engine running rougher so I turned it off and found that the battery read ~11.3 volts. Checked the wiring at the alternator and it checked out so I started the car again and tested voltage at the battery and the alternator positive post. Both read ~11.3 volts. Had the alternator and battery both tested at O'reilly on their machine and it said it checks out, though I know that isn't a final judgement on whether or not an alternator is really working properly or not. By that point I had assumed it was the voltage regulator. Replacements aren't easy to get and they're either expensive or the shipping costs more than the unit. By the time that would all be said and done I figured I would be better off buying an internally regulated 280zx alternator. The alternator is a reman. unit from O'reilly that was on the old engine before without issue. Is there something else I could be missing here? I got a longer bolt/screw for the "E"/ground post of the alternator since the old one couldn't hold the wire and the capacitor at the same time. Is there some chance that the one I used isn't allowing the alternator to get a proper ground? I've also read things about how if the battery isn't charged enough the alternator won't charge, but I doubt that was the case since it seemed that the battery was at good voltage but gradually draining. I'm tempted to pull the trigger on a new internally regulated alternator and throw it in, but I would rather have someone point out what I can't seem to see is wrong before I spend the money on it. 2) The tachometer and oil/water gauge are not working. I know I have oil pressure as I verified that before starting the engine. The sending unit is new and I know it's getting oil. The stock tachometer coil signal wire is hooked up and I verified it at the resistor under the passenger side of the dash. Also verified continuity and resistance in the resistor. As far as I can tell, the gauges are getting the signal, they just aren't being powered. The lights do come on but after reviewing the wiring diagram those seem to be on a separate circuit anyway. According to another forum member, the 4th fuse down on the left side of the fuse panel provides voltage to the gauges. The fuse is fine and has continuity, though I don't get voltage on either side of the fuse. After checking where the fuse gets power from, it seems to be hooked into switched voltage from a black and white wire that is spliced in at multiple points throughout the car. Here's where it gets interesting, though. The fuse that provides power to the voltage/fuel gauge also appears to be fed by that wire, and I know my voltage/fuel gauge is working. I feel like I'm going crazy trying to track down the cause of the issue since every lead (no pun intended) I find ends up in me thinking that it should be working fine. Any advice is appreciated as always. Like I always say, HybridZ is the place I turn to when all my efforts seem to be getting me nowhere. - Pac Man
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Hey All, I've searched all over for this topic and can't quite find what I'm looking for. Part of it may be my being green in the drivetrain area. I took a 76 280z (CA) and put the motor and 5spd from a 77 280z (2+2) in. After getting everything in place, the car drives and goes through gears 1-4 okay. It won't go into 5th no matter what and has a little trouble with reverse. From what I've read this sounds like a shift fork replacement is in order. I don't see any interference issues with the shifter and tunnel. 1) Would you put your money on this needing a fork replacement? 2) If so, I assume this requires pulling the trans... I'm a little hesitant with my skill level to make any assumptions at this point and start dissecting 3) Any guides or advice on approaching this? Note: I do have the 4 speed I pulled out of the car if there is anything I can use from it. Sorry for the naivety... I'm dying to finally get some summer fun out of this thing. Thanks!
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Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Title pretty much says it all. I like the OEM vents but will consider aftermarket ones. Located in Everett, WA. Just PM me here. Thanks!
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Hello everybody, I would like to open with: Yes I did in fact search for my answer. I found a lot of advice for the do it yourself painter who is going down to bare metal on a rotisserie, but that person is not me. I was looking for some confirmation on what I've been hearing about painting a z. A paint shop told me that it has old lacquer paint on it, and if they try to paint modern paint over it it will not stick, and it will bubble and crack within the year. They said that the paint would need to be sanded down to bare metal first. Is this true? Is there any kind of primer that can "adapt" Lacquer paint to modern paint? I am very lucky, and I don't have very much rust damage on the car at all (it's from the desert in California), so the body is in good shape but the paint is VERY faded. I want to just get it resprayed black and keep the stock color, but I don't have 5 grand for a crazy paintjob. I also can't do much, if any, of the prepwork myself because my garage is a rental. I could wait and spend that much, but I'm not looking for showcar quality, just average. The fun part for me is the engine and suspension Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker next to 1970 Mustang Grande with 351 Cleveland -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
So yesterday, my car was totaled. I was at a red light at the bottom of a bridge, and on the left lane there was a guy who was pushing his car because he was having car problems. 30 seconds into waiting for the red light to turn green, I looked into my rearview, I saw a Honda coming at me at least 45 mph. I saw him 2 seconds before he hit me, so I braced for impact. He pushed me to the other side of the intersection. I tried to exit the car but the feders trapped the door, so I climbed out the window. I went up to the driver and asked what happened with him and told him off for being reckless. He told me that he was distracted by the guy pushing his car because he wanted to help him out. So I called insurance and cops took a report. Today the adjuster came and said the car is a total loss. He said they'll get back to me within a few days with an offer. I've put a lot of time and money restoring this car, but I have a feeling they will try to lowball me. Has anyone had a similar experience? How much were you compensated? How can I make sure I get back what I put in?
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WTB a l28et swapped Z. Please post pics of what you have or link a thread. Location does not matter i will fly out to it. No projects please looking for one that is good to go.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a 280zx with a L28et turbo engine. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Trying to find a donor car that runs but isn't very nice for the outside, really just need the engine. I'm swapping it over to my '78 280z. Preferably manual, unless its possible to bolt my current stock 5 speed transmission to the other engine w/o problems. Thanks.
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Hello guys I have a 77 280z and when I went to start it today I got nothing. I have a new battery, new distributor, new alternator and a year old voltage regulator. I have lights in my dash and dome light. Head lights are nice and bright. When I turn the key I get nothing. I usually have a beep when I turn the key. I went and replaced the back part of the ignition today and still nothing with the new one. I will take the whole assembly to locksmith and see if it's the cylinder or what. Can anyone shed some light on what else to check?
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Hi Guys I am about to purchase a complete rear end setup from a 1978 280z. The owner claims the car was a manual, and I'm needing to know how to identify that the car really was a manual. I know that if the car was truly a manual, then the rear end is indeed a R200. Any tips or identifiers on the rear end or the car being a manual is much appreciated. I've listed a link where I sourced the majority of my info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Thanks, Ben
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Hey just made this account and wanted some advice, and opinions. I swapped the engine into the car about a year ago, I got it running, but I had some serious power loss issues, I found an intake leak. So right now I've got the head off and am getting ready to get it cleaned. And just get it running stock, I plan on doing a major build come August. Anyways my goal for this car would be autocross, leading up to getting the car on the track. In that sense I would really love to push 26-28 psi. With that in mind could I get some good input
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Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
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Hello! New to the forum. It's always been on my bucket list to own a 240z, so i'm hoping someone out there has one for sale? *update WTB a 280z I am looking for one that has not been gutted out. No drag cars or chevy swaps please. Ultimately, I'm looking to restore one and possibly do a 26RBDETT or a SR20DET swap down the road. I'll be in GA until March 2015, after that I'm moving to the DC Metro area. Thanks! Charles
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From the album: 280z project
<p>The day i got the car and the engine home. been wanting this car and engine combo for a long time <img class="bbc_emoticon" src="http://forums.hybridz.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png" title=":)" /></p> -
So my build is coming to an end. Spare wheel well has been cut out for the f body fuel tank, gauges are ready to be installed. One last thing at the VERY VERY end, is the exhaust. I've heard a lot of people go 3 inch. I'm wanting to learn towards 3.5 single from 3inch collectors to a 3.5 inch y pipe through a resonator and a muffler. I really really want to avoid drone. And i REALLY want to avoid having to do a true dual out setup. Here's what I got so far. 4inch intake into stock ls1 from 2000 SS sanderson block huggers from JTR, ceramic coated 3 inch collectors. WANT TO GO TO 3.5 inch y pipe, to a resonator, and a muffler, then out. What do you guys think? How would it fit under the s30 body? Am I looking for too much with a 3.5? ANY sound clips are welcome. I've been coming through youtube to find a good 3.5 inch exhaust note, but i've been seeing a lot of STATESMAN machines from australia. PS, I want a smoother throaty sound than a cammed sound that seems to want to rip through the pipes. Maybe that has a lot to do with what tips? =T -
Hi All, I'd like to buy the fan control resistor for a 77 280z, part number 72 from here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/AirConditioner/tabid/1673/Default.aspx Thanks
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My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
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Hello all, I have searched low and high to no avail. I am upgrading to a 280zx alternator in my 75 280. I was following the diagram below and carried out with the white to yellow but had noticed that my volage regulator did not have the specified green and red. It appears that the pin hole of the voltage regulator for the G/R was capped from the factory. So I am hoping that there are some guys here that have figured something out for the 75s that could help me finish this up? Thank you in advance... Connect 1-5 (lamp to windings common) green&red to white&black Connect 2-3 (+12V to Sense) white to yellow
