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Found 150 results

  1. I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections? EBC (#1): Install Location (#2): Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4):
  2. Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already had the SR20DET swap which is a little rough round the edges, but in the PO defence, he had 28 day warranty on the engine so had to get it into the car as soon as he could to make sure it checked out OK. This wasn't long after he had it all up and running. I drove home that night with a huge smile on my face knowing I would be a Z car owner!! My dream car was going to be mine. So the day came to swap the cars, here is an image of the 2 cars together..
  3. AlbatrossCafe

    Gpop shop rebuild result

    Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know how my Gpop shop turbo rebuild went in case anyone was looking at going to them: http://gpopshop.com/ Before: 1982 L28ET Garret AiResearch stock T3 turbo After: Upgraded into T3/T4 hybrid with T4 .50 trim compressor wheel and Stage III exhaust turbine. All moving components rebuilt/replaced if applicable. Review: So far, I am very satisfied with their work. When they said "we will make your turbo like new" I was skeptical. They took my 35 year old turbo and genuinely made it better than it was when it was new back in 1982. Externally, it looks great. I decided to have Gpop upgrade my stock turbo because I didn't want to deal with fabbing up external wastegates or put in spacers to get something aftermarket to fit. The cost (~$900 btw) was comparable to buying a new Garrett hybrid and in the end I get something that I know will bolt right in AND has a warranty to boot. Also, their customer service was awesome. I say "Externally, it looks great" cus I haven't finished putting together my engine yet 🙃 I'll update the review with actual performance "soon"!
  4. garyneedsz

    MSA l28ET Downpipe S30

    I am looking for a used aftermarket down pipe for a l28et specifically for an S30 by MSA.
  5. I've been reading up on turbos for over 6 hours between today and yesterday 🤪 haha and have gone from zero knowledge to some knowledge. I am a big proponent of "buy once, cry once" methodology and while I am updating a bunch of other stuff on the Z, I am wondering if I should just knock out the turbo as well. HP Goal: Reliable 260hp-290hp for application that is 99% street Torque Goal: 300-310ft/lbs Spool RPM: 2400 RPM start with full boost by ~3000 RPM (similar to stock!) Wastegate: Internal (don't want to be swapping anything out or fabbing external brackets) I think 260hp to 290hp is a little high for the stock T3 to feel comfortable. I also don't want to run a ton of PSI if I can help it. So far I am installing: - 1982 L28ET with stock internals - 1978 280z with '78 R200 diff and '78 5-speed transmission - Megasquirt 2 - 240sx 60mm throttle body, 440cc Supra injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump - Greddy Intercooler 2.25" piping with HKS BOV - 2.5" MSA downpipe to 3" mandrel bent exhaust with straight-through muffler - Mishimoto radiator with dual 12" Spal electric fans If I understand what I have been reading correctly, I want something with a lower A/R. Something around .57? I read on here that a user had a .48 that spooled at 1200RPM. That is probably a little extreme 😄. Not sure about trim. I would like it to be between $500-$800 if possible (no China turbos either). So does anyone have any recommendation or experience with a T3/T4 turbo that spools at a similar RPM to stock?
  6. Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know
  7. 1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  8. I'm looking for the aftermarket center piece panel that goes between the tail lights on the 280ZX. To be specific the 82-83 years models with the black stripes/bars that goes across the lens. Also known as the third brake light or center tail light. Has "280ZX" written on the lower red lens. I've got one that got hit by a smaller truck the other day, so the top amber lens got crushed.... And also I'm missing the wiring. But I guess no one has the lens and wiring only for sale, so I'm looking for the whole thing! PM me. Thanks!
  9. Trying to free up some space and get some funds for the car. All prices are obo, will ship at buyers expense. F54 short block, rolls smooth block and bearings are clean but the coolant passages are a little crusty - 200$ P90a head from same engine - sold L28 turbo manifold - sold 4 speed tranny out of a 77' 280z - 100$ OEM replacement clutch for 280z brand new from z car depot didn't end up needing - 80$ Stainless steel flywheel bolt set - make offer Rear maxima flat brackets - 100$ 280z RH door latch 60$ Interior/exterior door handles and rods - make offer 280z throwout bearing brand new - 15$ L28et intake manifold - 50$
  10. L28et not rev'ing past 4800 (like a wall) I have searched and can't find anything. I'm sure there's info on it though. I have a 71 240Z l28et megasquirt hx35 water meth 1.4bar low boost high boost is 2bar runs and drives great but only wants to rev to 4800. I recently put this engine together about 18,000 miles ago and it used to pull hard way past 5K (5500-5800 is where it would normally start to fall off at but I could push it to 6-6200) only thing that has changed is I've gone to sea level adjusted the tune accordingly 24 degrees of ignition timing 10.8 -11.2 afr (only thing I've changed is fuel). I've been going easy on it because I was driving it across the country and don't have a garage to work on it and was the first time Ive turned down the Boost from 2bar. Normally I don't rev it that high unless I'm racing or driving it hard (on track) and haven't really gotten on it really hard since before I drove it across the country... what I think is happening is my cam timing is advanced... while driving it across the country one morning I got up to start it to let it warm up and it backfired through the intake and idled backwards for a couple of seconds (sounded horrible). Quickly turned off the ignition checked everything and went to start it and it started and drove fine. That was about 2800 miles ago. Full Boost @ 3800 feels like it should be at 4500 or even higher. In order for me to check ignition timing on the crank I would have to put a dial indicator in cylinder 1 because there's no key way in the underdrive pulley. it's only been dialed in when the engine was first assembled for the offset to megasquirt. this is what makes my dilemma a little harder to check cam timing. I can't just pop up off the valve cover and check crank to cam timing. I may need to just go buy a dial indicator take off the valve cover and go from there and start turning the engine over. Anyway anybody else have this happened there engine... engine rotates backwards and the timing chain jumps on the cam? Ideas.. thoughts . Thank you for your time ahead of time and please go easy on me.
  11. Me.Dean_Yates

    Turbo with DCOEs

    Planning a blow through set up with either Weber’s or Mikuni’s (which ever I can get my hand on) I have seen it done before and would like to know what I should expect as far as build goes, which parts I may need, and what my viable boost options are with this build.
  12. Currently building an L28ET and I an looking to buy: 1. Megasquirt relay and cable (MSRelay-C / MSRelayCable) 2. 54 mm Optical Trigger Wheel for Nissan L28ET 3. 440cc Injectors 4. Fuel Rail, 11mm injector size Thank you!
  13. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  14. I just put a GT35R into my 1981 280zx N/A. I'm looking to go with a safe amount of boost (~9-10 psi), and have an external wastegate, BOV, Pop-off Valve, and manual boost controller all set. What I dont have is a Megasquirt to adjust for boost levels and adjust based on what the AFM reads. It also turns out that 3 of my 300zx injectors crapped out on me (got them from a scrapyard). Do y'all know what kind of injectors would fit the L28E that range from 275 to 310 cc/min (preferably a cheap route), and how to make them disperse more or less fuel with only the stock ECU? If there isn't a way to do that, just tell me. I'm not looking for too much of a power gain here, something around 195 HP would be good. Any advice helps, thanks.
  15. Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project. As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance. Here is a dyno pull!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html Here is a run at the track!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C! Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity. Makes ya sick. Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver. Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat. First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA..... Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking. I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc. Look at the boxes of parts WOW! I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up. Before.... After.... Bolted to the head with cam timing done. Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right! While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z. To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s. Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP! So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke. He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed. Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff. Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount! Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line. Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans Stay tuned for the process.......
  16. drift280z

    ISO L28ET Stock Injectors

    Does anyone have a set for sale? I can't afford to buy refurbished ones. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and test bench so it's okay if they haven't been cleaned. Thanks!
  17. Looking for Z32 TT Rear sub frame assembly. I bought one from a seller on ebay and it turned out to be a short nose R200. The pickings are pretty slim at the junk yards in North texas so trying my luck here. Specifically looking for R-230, Wheel hubs, Brakes, and ebrake assembly from a Z32 Turbo car to finish up the swap in my 280. If you have any of these parts and are in North texas or willing to ship please let me know. I JUST WANT TO DRIVE MY CAR AGAIN!! I have 2 longnose R200's id be willing to trade or just sell outright, a couple sets of axles, and of course an entire Z32 N/A car rearsubframe. Thanks!
  18. Austin Leonard Automotive

    Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  19. So you may have seen my build thread. I am converting my N/A L28 to turbo using the stock N42/N42 motor with a 2mm HKS head gasket and a compression ratio of 7.65:1. Upon my research I have found that finding the exact turbo for this build is alot harder than I though. And requires some pretty good knowledge of how turbos work, compressor maps etc.. I've done some searching here and there but havent seen anyone doing my setup so far with the N42 combo with the 2mm gasket. Feel free to chime in and I'm curios to know what turbos you guys are running, and also if you have some helpful advice to steer me in the right direction that would be very helpful as well. I will continue my research either way. Here is what my goals are: Full spool by 3k-4k rpms. 300whp capable. 500-900 dollar price range (preferably around 700-800 if possible) These are the things I can think of at the moment, I am probably forgetting something. but a 3-4k spool seems like the best for the rpm range of this build (6500). Feel free to chime in with any advice, criticism, or whatever you'd like! I am wanting to learn, and wanting to make sure my setup is right the first time. Like I said earlier I will continue this research but I figured I'd put this post out here so I can see what people have to say. Shameless build plug >Click Me<
  20. Can anyone tell me which vac hose to tap for a mechanical boost gauge on an L28ET? I took a pic. Bonus if you can draw an arrow pointing to a specific hose!
  21. Johnbian

    Ecoboost swap

    This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  22. I've been doing hours of research and have decided to get a boost gauge for my 280z with L28ET turbo swap. The problem is, I don't really like the look of any of the mechanical gauges. I really like the Speedhut one where you can "Design your own" and has an LED warning light: http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-01/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-20psi-(w--warning) I called and they said this was an electronic gauge. I know that installing a mechanical one is easy, but is an electronic boost gauge just as simple? It looks like speedhut supplies you with a pressure sensor and sensor wiring harness. It seems like you would just tap into the vacuum line with the T fitting, plug in the pressure sensor to the t-fitting, and run their sensor wiring harness to your gauge instead of a vacuum line like you would for a mechanical one. Is this correct?
  23. So about a week ago my car started to have issues when it got up to temp. It would originally start, idle, and run fine, but after the car began to get warm it would lean out like crazy (have a wideband installed) and there would be no response when throttle was applied under load. It did this for a few days until it decided to completely die on my way home from the gym. After a few minutes the car would start and idle lean on the side of the road, but then die immediately with any throttle (not under load). The engine is from a 1983 280zx turbo. After a little bit of research I'm wondering if it is my Crank Angle Sensor in my distributor, but I'm still very confused. I don't think it's a wet Throttle Position Sensor because I had that problem recently and I removed it/dried it out and the car ran fine. Also the symptoms are different due to not even idling rather than failing at 2000rpm. Short video with symptoms: https://streamable.com/nn9ls
  24. I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!
  25. Pac_Man

    L28ET Swap

    Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
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