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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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Looking for an '89 - 98' 240sx KA24DE (FS5W71C) 5 speed transmission.
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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240z seat. Comes with all hardware and tracks $50 '78 280z Auto Transmission with replaced seals $50 Price drop on the N47 head!!! HEAD IS SOLD. Located in Tehachapi CA. Local pick up in the area accepted, otherwise all prices do not include shipping. I had this head rebuilt years ago and only ran it at idle a few times before pulling the motor again. It's ready to put on your motor. Head specs: 1978 N47 Resurfaced head Resurfaced rockers 3-angle valve job 300ZX springs Schneider Stage 1 Cam (260/260 duration, 0.460" lift) Asking $750 $650 $575 $500 240z front and rear bumpers. Front bumper has damage. Rear bumper is in good condition. Front bumper: $25 Rear bumper: $50 '78 N47 Stock NA Header in fresh VHT Ceramic Coating $100
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The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph
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Will a 93 nissan gardbody 2wd fs5w71g 5 speed fit like a 240sx ka trans will. I want to machine the bellhousing of a l series 4 speed i have to make it fit. I can pick it up for cheaper than a 240sx trans and im gonna rebuild it while im at it. Im told it could work but is it just as strong and is the outside any bigger or longer??. Cant find any info on it. Thanks
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Hey y'all, I need some clarification. From what I've read in various forums and conversations & a few google searches. Datsun utilized 2 or 3 versions of the 5 speed for the 280z. Again, from what I've read. It seems as though the later 80-83 version is the more desirable due to it being a close ratio gearbox compared to the earlier versions. And from what I can tell, it doesn't seem as though there is any identification numbers stamped on the transmission. I did read that if the 5 speed has one hanger at the tail end then it's the more desirable version compared to the earlier version which would have two hangers/forks? There was a 4204C label stamped on it, not that this probably helps. If anyone can tell me which version of the 5 Speed I bought, I'd appreciate it. Did anything that I mentioned above seem to be completely wrong? Thank you in advance!
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I recently picked up my RB25, and after looking at the crazy high prices for transmission/engine mounts and reading some of the reviews I figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a go myself. If it works out, great, if not then I'll buck up and pay the money for the pre-fabbed ones. Anyways, I decided to start with the transmission mount as it seemed easier and It would hold my engine in place beter for the motor mounts. First things first, I took the old transmission mount off of the 4 speed transmission, and it bolts up perfectly to the 5speed RB tranny. I was pleasantly surprised! That meant I could at least use the original mount to an extent. Then, I put the engine in place to get measurements. I pushed it almost as far back as I could towards the firewall. I noticed that the mckinney mounts seemed to bolt the engines straight down, but it seemed like you'd have to modify the trans tunnel in order to have the shifter go through. I wanted my shifter to be in more of a stock location, and it wouldn't pop through until I pushed it farther back. Then, I crawled under and got some measurements. These probably aren't;t universal and probably won't work for everyone, but what I got was this: The original mounting area allowed the transmission mount to be 14 inches long. The new area I was mounting was 10". The original mounting holes were 12.25 inches apart in the middle of the holes, with the other hole being directly center. It was also farther back in the tunnel by 5". I figured the easiest way to do this would be to make some sort of jig, so I put together a crude assembly with just some shelf wood and some nails. I measured the above measurements, cut the ends off of the tranny mount 2" in each side, allowing it to fit in the new location. Then, I took some 1"x 2" bar I had lying around and just eyeballed it basically, holding it above and marking it with a pencil, then cutting it along the lines and shaving it as needed. I then tacked it in place, got under and double checked it and everything fit really well. Probably nto perfect, but it seems like it is pretty much perfect. I then pulled it back out and welded it all together. My welds are supreme, I know. I also cut a corner out of the passenger side tranny mount thing that I need to go in and weld up. The Speedo sensor, as many already know, doesn't fit in that area without that being modified. Also, a little plug for grinding masks. I bought this a few years back after cutting my lip off with this very grinder. I wised up and decided I wanted protection across my whole face. Yesterday, there mustve been some sort of manufacturing error with the disc I was using and it exploded while in use. The biggest chunk hit me right in the face, but thanks to this bad boy I'm all good. I'm curious everyone's thoughts! do you think this will old, assuming my professional quality welds penetrated well? Of does it need to be more centered across?
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Welcome, Looking for a 5 speed trans somewhere in the Minnesota / North Dakota area. I would prefer to come pick up the trans but would be willing to ship if the price is right. Let me know what you have!
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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First post! Before the witch-hunt begins, I've become quite adept with the search function here. I bought a JTR-converted '75 280z with an SBC 350 out of a 1970 Chevrolet Bel Air about two years ago. Searching on this website has helped immensely in getting this thing up-and-running, and fixing the bungles the previous owner made. My Z initially had a TH350 automatic transmission which, while nice in a drag, was not sufficient for highway driving. And I'm not planning on doing any racing. So it's currently on my garage floor, where it belongs. I've been looking at manual transmission options, and it seems the best route is to look at other cars that had the 5.7L V8...such as Corvettes and Trans-Am's. I'm thinking about getting a flywheel, clutch kit, and T56 transmission from a '93-02 Trans Am. I'd like to hear any advice from folks who went this route. My biggest worry is, given the age of my engine (i.e. it is internally balanced and has the two-piece rear main seal, rather than the one-piece) the newer '93-02 parts won't match up. Any wisdom / advice? Thanks all! Happy motoring!
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Hey i was wondering what are my transmission options for my l28et swapped 260z. I have the stock 4 speed with a brand new south bend stage 2 feramic and organic 400 ft ib clutch. So i am looking for the best route on which transmission to choose. Source parts from a 280zxt or 300zxt with their borg warners. Or Other nissan transmissions with the same clutch spline.. Or possibly if its not too hard modifying another transmission to make it all work like it should. Or is it possible to get stronger internals for my stock 4 speed. Stock r200 i forget what ratio. Also i want to keep my factory speedo working normal. Sounds like my only option is the t5 from the 82 and 83 280zxt right?? I really dont need another gear i would just prefer to not have to drive home without a gear from autocross this upcoming summer once my car has more power im hoping for around 300hp and 350tq in the future. I dont drop the clutch higher than 4k but on the stock tranny and a new strong clutch i know it isnt going to last long. thankyou
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Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
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I have a 1972 240z with an L28 and 5 speed transmission, all swapped before I got the car. I just finished a clutch replacement where I; replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, clutch and pressure plate, had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced the the outer seals and gasket on the transmission. Refilled transmission with Redline MT-90 and bled the slave cylinder with Valvoline DOT 3&4 synthetic brake fluid. I did all this just to find out that it was the hydraulic system, the clutch was fine. I believe my problem is that I ordered a 1977 slave cylinder however I for some reason still have the 'old' clutch fork with the hole for the adjustable rod. I thought no problem Ill just Swap the adjustable rod from the one on the car with the new one. I did this and tried to properly adjust the slave cylinder but was a bit confused by the fsm. should I push the slave cylinder rod all the way in and pull the fork to the back of the car then adjust the nut to 1.5 turns out from touching the fork? Will this setup not work and I should order a new '72 slave? The car is current on stands and when I start the car in first with the clutch in the wheel still spin. -
Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
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Hi all, My clutch won't engage or disengage and I can't seem to figure out the issue. It's a 280zx 5 speed transmission, dual center force clutch, has the 280zx slave cylinder as well. Lines are bled properly, new slave cylinder installed and bled. It seems as thought the slave cylinder will not move the fork which is leading me to think its the throw out bearing but I would appreciate any insight on the topic. Thanks! Chris
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I tried to post this in "Parts for Sale" but was unable to start a topic there. Hey all! I should start out by saying I'm testing the waters for parting out vs selling the motor/transmission whole. I have a running 1982 280zx. All stock. 150,000 miles on the motor and the car. Injector fans, AC, everything still works on the car. Even the little work light. If there is a big enough demand for parting out the motor and I can move it fast enough, I will part it out. If not, I'm going to try to sell the motor and transmission whole. So if there is something you would like go ahead and let me know. I'm getting rid of the 5/spd manual transmission as well. Keeping the R200. My reason for getting rid of everything is that I am swapping the L28 out for an LQ4. I will let you know what I decide within the next 2 weeks. Can post pictures of parts if requested. Thank you! Ford
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Hi guys, here's where I'm at- I'm trying to get underway on a v8 swap into my '73 240z. Car will be for street use/getting into trouble- nothing serious like autoX/track/drag. My plans are as follows: Chevy 350 engine 650cfm vac secondary carb MSD 6al ign Camaro t5 trans Custom driveshaft JTR engine/trans mounting kit JTR headers (maybe) Custom exhaust Upgraded fuel pump OEM radiator from v8 car I have been doing a ton of reading and already ordered the JTR manual but still have a few logistical questions. I found a good candidate for a motor, BUT it is a truck vortec motor. I've read there are 2 main types of flywheels- 153 & 168 tooth. Don't know which one this engine has. Since I plan on using a camaro T5 (I know these get a bad rap, but I think for a mostly stock 350 I should be ok if I don't abuse it?) I'm not sure about fitment. So, first question, 1) what kind of fitment issues should i be thinking about? As long as the flywheel is the right diameter it should just bolt up? My z is carb'd and this engine ill be too. So, second question, 2) Do you think my fuel system can flow enough for a 350? It has a return line so I'm assuming the pump isn't close to max capacity right now, which is why i wasn't sure if an upgrade would be necessary since i'm staying carb'd. I have a couple more, but lets start with these and hopefully reading the manual should answer most of them. Mostly stumped on the t5 trans fitment to what other engines. I've been reading a lot on hot rod forums but haven't exactly found an answer. Thanks, Adrian
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I'm looking for a 5-spd transmission from a 280z to put into my 240z. Where is the best place to find one (or do you have one for sale) ? I browsed through ebay and craigslist but didn't really find anything. Also noticed that neither MSA nor Whitehead carry them. Thank you!
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I have a 280Z track car with a built L28 and a 240sx trans, it has a OS Geiken LSD (not sure the gear ratios). Id like a trans with a taller first, closer second and third and a shorter fifth than the sx trans. can I get gears for the sx trans and build it? is there a trans out there that fits the bill that will bolt in with little modification? or a lot of mods? Any guidance will be much appreciated. I'm shifting to fith at about 120mph, hp peaks at 7,300+/- rpms 357hp @ flywheel 300ftlb torque @flywheel 16" wheels with 245/45z R6's Stock gear ratio diff with OS Geiken LSD (not sure of ratio, one search says 3.54 another says 3.36) I have that SX trans in it now and if 2nd and 3rd were closer and 5th was a little shorter it would be great. Custom built dog box with straight cut gears is about $7-8k Budget is about $4-5k -
I am beginning to source parts for my S30 - L28et swap and already have the long block (P90a - F54), but need everything else. My car is a late year-260z (December 1974). I am also looking for advice on transmission options as I have found endless information (somewhat difficult to sort through) on options. My car is an automatic if that makes a difference. I am looking to buy: Transmission (T5- or other??) Manifolds (Intake and Exhaust) Turbo ECU Wiring Harness Dizzy Fuel Rail everything else I appreciate any help or advice! Thanks! -Josh
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I am currently working out a L28ET swap into my current 1974 260z w/ automatic transmission. I have noticed that the automatic transmission itself is listed as fitting 1972-1983. Can I bolt my L28ET to my existing transmission or is there something else that I am missing or need to be aware of? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you. -
I've searched what seems like every website and forum looking for the model #s for the gears in the fs5w71b tranny with no luck. I've found some exploded diagrams but even those don't have any identifying numbers. Anyone able to help me with this? TIA
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Hello, So I'm new to HybridZ and somewhat to Z's as well. Got mine back in May of 2014, I've been restoring a 1978 280z and so far I haven't had too many problems. As of now it runs good, sometime it's has problems on a cold start, and it'll idle high but then settles down to around 700-800 rpm. Well anyways right now my issue is with the amount of heat in the cockpit. It gets hot in there, and I feel like it's coming in from the engine bay, but I've also been told it might be coming from the tranny. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how you solved it? Any information would be helpful. Thank you
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Still doing a lot of research here, but I am stuck on what is probably a dumb question. I have an LS7 (Picking it up from machine shop today!) that I will be swapping into my 75 280z. I am confused on which T56 Magnum I should buy. This isn't from a performance standpoint, but for which vehicle should I order the transmission (98-02 Camaro)? (planning on going Tick or RPM stage IV/V). Also, does anyone have any insight on which bellhousing will fit 1&3/4" longtubes the best? Thanks for the help.
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So I've gotten an '84 Maxima 5 speed, and this weekend I've managed to pull out everything all the way up to the crank shaft. Need weekend it'll be time to put it all back together but I've gotta go on a little shopping spree first. Gonna need a new starter, shifter bushings, etc... My questions are, I can't tell if the wear on the flywheel teeth is "too much" or not. I also have conflicting ideas about tampering with the rear main seal. I figure "while I'm down there" I should put a fresh one in. But I also have that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" feeling. Here are some pics of the flywheel teeth and the rear main seal. So, sometime when attempting to crank the Z, I'd get a sharp startling grinding sound. The starter has never unexpectedly disengaged, but it has sometimes failed to engage initially. I don't know if it's mostly due to how much the starter is worn or the flywheel or both. The flywheel's not missing any teeth, they're all just a bit deformed. Also, is that oil on the end of the crank a problem? How easy is it to screw up a rear main seal installation? Thanks! Also, plenty more pictures where those came from here.
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