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As some of you know we were part of a product development with Mfactory. The whole point of this was to bring the R200 more helical LSD options. This production was a great success with the help of great members of this community. The original thread is here. They are currently for long nose R200s with 10mm and 12mm Ring gear bolts. Accepts 29 spline stub axle shafts. Some key points about MFactory and their Helical LSD. Mfactory established in 2004 Covered by the MFactory Lifetime, Globally Transferable Warranty Diamond Cut to exacting tolerances from Forged High-Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steel (imported Japanese SAE 4320 & SAE 9310 Steel) Forged, Double Tempered and Super Sub-Zero treated for unsurpassed toughness Advanced Shot Peening technology increases surface hardness Designed to withstand the extreme shock loads of competition-level Drag Racing Advanced gear geometry designed using industry-leading software puts more power to the ground Only the highest quality Brighton-Best Hardware is used Maintenance-free Gears eliminates the need for special fluids & rebuilds associated with plate-type LSDs (I personally use AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w-90) Lock-free operation ensures no adverse affect to steering response MSRP: $999.95 Limited HybridZ member price: $875 shipped to lower 48. (CA residents must pay sales tax) All differentials are shipped from CA via UPS and have signature required delivery. Supplies are limited right now so act fast! If you are interested please PM me with your shipping address and PayPal Email address. Once we receive that information from you we can send you a payment request on Paypal. All orders are shipped same day (Mon-Fri not including holidays) if payment is received by 4:30PM EST (1:30PM PDT) Any questions please feel free to email me at nick@jdmpowerhouse.com, reply to this post, or shoot us a PM. MFactory contact info. 581 W. Covina Blvd San Dimas, CA 91773 (MFactory R&D / North American Sales & Distribution) Business Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am - 4pm (PST) Tel: +1 909-592-5933 Fax: +1 213-455-2613 Web: www.teamMFactory.com
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"Long nose R200 Torsen LSD, 3:90 ratio." This is the way unit was described when I bought it for a race car - never finished car. Been in dry storage. $750 Located in Greenville, SC area
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Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster here. Quick intro: My name is Dirk, I have a '73 240Z and '70 510. The 510 is the car I've learned to wrench on since I got it a few years ago. The Z has become my rolling project and daily driver since I bought it about half a year ago. Powertrains are stock-ish on both but I'm planning an L28 NA build for the Z. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have completed a bunch of moderately challenging projects on both cars, but I'm entirely self-taught and far from an expert. My questions: I'm getting ready to swap a Subie R180 Torsen diff from an '08 STi into the Z, a fairly fresh used diff and the betamotorsport stub axles are on their way to my home, as well as a Ron Tyler mount while I'm in there, and I've done a bunch of research on the swap so far. This is the best illustrated how-to I could find on the swap: http://inzane240.blogspot.com/2014/01/subie-r180-install.html At this point, everything but swapping the input flange seems really straightforward to me. The best thread I could find on that topic was this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90321-r200-clsd-mounting/ But since that thread is about a different diff than the one I'm going to use, I'm not sure if the same tolerances and advice apply. I'm asking specifically for advice on how to retighten the flange nut in the best possible way so I end up with a safe, reliable set-up. What I believe so far is: The flanges should swap straight between my stock open R180 and the Subie R180 I can remove the nuts for the flanges on both diffs with an impact I might need a puller to get one of the flanges off, but probably won't When putting the Datsun flange on the Subie diff, I should put red loctite on the nut and tighten it to around 137 ft-lb The Subie diff doesn't use a crush washer for preload of the bearing or anything complicated like that, so no to count rotations of the nut when coming of, or to measure flange thickness. I can just tighten to spec, and then just check that the diff still rotates freely. If you see any errors in the above, please let me know. Now the next steps are where I'm getting a little lost and this is where my lack of expertise as a mechanic shows: When tightening the nut with an impact, it's really easy to overdo it. But when trying to using a torque wrench the diff will spin before tightening that nut. I see a few possible options to do this, and would like to hear your recommendations (or if you know of an alternate approach that I've overlooked, even better): Put the diff on a bench, put the flange in a vice. This allows me to tighten the nut with a torque wrench without spinning the input shaft. (seems like the best option. only worry: damaging the flange with the vice). Assemble input flange but don't fully tighten it, install the diff in the car, connect half-shafts to it but before connecting drive-shaft, put on the parking brake, raise car again, and tighten the input flange nut to spec while on the car. (seems like the surest option as long as I don't forget to tighten the nut. worry: seems like a hassle and means that if anything binds internally after tightening – e.g. seal against flange – I have to remove the diff again) Just jam the nut on there with my impact driver (I have an electric one that's capable of delivering somewhere between 150 and 250 ftlb of torque), even if that over-tightens the nut. (quick and dirty, worry: damaging something by over-tightening) Approach 3 is what Jon Mortensen recommends in the above-mentioned thread, just get it RFT. But since that's about a different type of differential than the one I'm working with, I didn't want to assume the same advice works equally well for the Subie diff. I'm leaning toward option 1, since it seems the most straightforward way to get to spec. Option 3 also makes sense to me because I'm probably going to use a similar approach to tighten all the other nuts to spec (half shaft to stub axle, drive shaft to input flange). Any advice or recommendations appreciated, thanks!
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Hello all, I have a 280ZX with an R200 open diff. In the next few years I plan on swapping the engine to make some more horsepower (300-500hp), but want to make sure my axle can handle it. I know the R200 is sturdier than the smaller diffs, and that problems often happen when one wheel spins. An LSD also helps for track driving, and driving in general (no I will not do a welded diff). There are several LSD carriers for the R200, marketed for the 300ZX, such as the OEM, M Factory, and OBX. There are plenty of forums and videos of people swapping the carriers for the S30 chassis, and they all talk about converting to 300ZX CV axles. My question is- If I swap the carrier for an LSD, can I use the 280ZX CV axles?
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I just picked up a 76 r200 and a brand new quafe LSD. I've never opened up a diff before - any recommendations? Can anybody point me to a how-to? thanks
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I need an R200 LSD Differential for my 240Z swap. Looking for one already converted and locked. Will pay up for the right one. Will only need stubbies if you have them. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Looking for a finned cover for my R200 LSD. Preferably in good shape without any broken fins.
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I have an 1989 3.9 R200 long nose. I need a good reliable LSD and I want CV's if possible. I bought an OS Giken NS046-HA LSD for a short nose R200. It is for a 1991 240SX open diff. I have used this diff numerous times in SX cars up to 450whp with good results so I wanted to see if it would go in a long nose. I put on new carrier bearings and used the original shims in the same locations. The ring gear bolts are smaller than the holes in the LSD but it is hubcentric so I just bolted it on. I have done this on SX diffs numerous times with no issues. There are spacers available if this worries you. The backlash and preload were within specs. First thing I noticed was the thick spacer is on opposite sides in the 2 diffs. This had me worried since the stub shafts are interchangeable between the 3 (280Z, 240SX, Z31ZXT). I tried these stub shafts in all 3 diffs. The groove is slightly wider on the SX stubs so I widened the groove on the Z31 shafts. They worked and locked in either way but the Z31's were very hard to get back out and a wider groove with slightly rounded edges matched the SX grooves better. I bought the Z31 axle shafts and flanges from Checkered Flag Joe. They are very beefy. It was no big deal to change shafts. Pull the c clip on the outboard end. Knock the inboard end off by hitting on the race. Change shafts and put it back together. The flanges are much heavier than stock and a tighter fit on the stock 280Z stub axles but went on with minimum fuss. The Giken's are very good and tunable diffs. They drive like stock, with no chattering, on the street but hook up great. They have 20 or so discs. Actually the steels and clutches are all steels but it works. I use Redline NS oil in them for the first 300 miles and then change to Giken fluid. It is very spendy. I couldn't find if this would work or not so thought I would share my experience. It works. Be sure to use an aftermarket LSD for an open diff SX and any one should work in a log nose R200 with either Z stubs or Z31 axles.
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I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.
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I am a newbie. In the process of building a Velo Rossa out of a 240z. I have a R200 open differential already installed, but the driveshaft is not in yet. I have a racing buddy, who has an extra limited slip R200 differential that he wants to keep, instead of sell to me, as he may need a differential in the future. He locks his differentials, to the point that one wheel will bounce when you take a slow turn. Is there any reason my friend would rather lock up a limited slip diff versus an open diff? I would assume it is way easier to weld the open diff than to weld the lsd. Your thoughts?
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Can I get a price check for an 88 300zx lsd pulled from an automatic with 114 k on it. Cv joints included. Unit is in Orlando. I will ship for the right price Someone is asking $1000 on eBay. I'm realistic.....Pics to follow soon. It's not a Vlsd from a shiro.... THANKS J
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I am looking for an R200 rear differential for my 76' 280z. I need a direct bolt-in unit or one with all the parts to make it fit in my 280z. I would prefer it to be LSD of some sort and a gear ratio of either 3.90 or 4.11 to match my 280zx 5-speed transmission. I am located in Northeast Ohio.
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Hi all. In the middle of my rebuild- Looking for a solid R200 3.9 3.7 LSD if anyone has a spare laying around! Whats the going rate for them these days? Edit: changed 3.9 to 3.7
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I am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1976 280z. I am located near Youngstown Ohio and would prefer large items to be within driving distance. Send me a message and we can discuss anything you may have. Items I'm looking for as follows: ZG flares Z432 rear spoiler or BRE Ground control coil-overs (280z) Camber Plates Toyota Front brakes vented or non-vented setups Rear Disc Conversion MSA 6-2 Headers (coated) MSA Twice pipes Fender Mirrors Rota RB stagger package wheels (black or gunmetal) Triple Carb setup (complete) Ignition Box Universal Fuse box and or Wiring Harness 5-Speed Transmission 280Z or ZX R200 LSD Flat top pistons (new not used) Cam (new not used)
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So I've reached a point where my research capabilities are failing me. I want to use an OS Giken Superlock in my longnose r200 (I know there is some mention of bushings to match bolt sizes? Not sure, but my diff builder said it was no issue). I know they have one for the 240Z R180, but there is no specific mention of one for the R200 from the 280Z. Are there any other long nose R200s that are identical such that a posi made for it would work in my current housing? I will be running the AZC suspension/brakes all around, 19 inch wheels in the rear with 305/30/ZR19 Hankook RS3s. Thus, I am also trying to figure out which rear end gear ratio to use. I'm rebuilding this diff right now and I want to do it right the first time. I should be making around 600rwhp (HCI LS7). My plan is to use the 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1, .8, .63 T56 Magnum (I think the taller 1-3 ratios will help with traction). The car will be a fun HPDE car for road courses, but will make the occasional trip to cars and coffee (Performance is more important than low cruise rpm). The car will not see the drag strip. I know all of this requires a stout rear end setup, so I figured the OS GIken + AZC setup would be a good start. Any other recommendations are welcome. Not sure exactly how crazy I need to go axle-wise to avoid issues. Thanks in advance for the help -- I'm trying to do this once and do it right! -
As the title reads I am looking to purchase an R200 Torsen/Gleason Limited Slip Differential. Ratios Im looking for are mainly: 3.7:1 and 4:11:1 But I am more than willing to look at alternate final drive ratios. Cheers HybridZ.
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Some years ago I picked up an R200 along with the hardware to swap into an S30. It was supposed to be a viscous, and he said he pulled from an '88 turbo himself. The Guy had already had in his 240z, so he had fitted 2 4-bolt 'square' stub axles (the flange things that pop into the the diff, right?) that fit into the diff. One of them had been ground down to shorten the length of the shaft. It says 37:10 on the (ring?) gear. I've acquired a CLSD so I'm going that route instead. Besides, I did try it in my '78 for a while and was not impressed. Recently I've read that using the VLSD R200 is not viable because the spline count is unique and the '88 Shiro stubs have to be used. But it is clear, standard stubs fit into this diff. So what gives? 1) - either this is not truly a VLSD from an '88 shiro or 2) - the info on the incompatibilty of the Shiro VLSD is inaccurate I once visually compared the inside to an open R200 from a 280zx, and it was definitely different. What is it? Thanks for the help
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Like it says, I want to buy a good, working T5 manual transmission out of an 82-83 280ZX turbo, and would also LOVE it if the properly modified driveshaft to fit a 240Z came with it! I have been looking for a while so I will offer +$500 (shipped or delivered to Reno area) to make this happen (more if it is in really good shape). Also, looking for a Limited Slip Differential. An R200 with the non-finned cover to fit a 240Z would be great. An R180 out of an STi with the half-shafts to fit a 240Z would be SUPER and I will pay top dollar for either. Let me know what you have!! (image used for reference, shamelessly stolen from datsunzgarage.com)
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looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .
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Well im new to the whole datsun/nissan scene and I found what seems like a good deal on a z32 LSD on my local Craigslist and was wondering if A _ It's a possible swap and B_if it is possible what modifications would have to be made. Thanks guys oh and by the way, admins, if this post is plain stupid I would not be offended if you deleted it.-Grayson PS- I also found a set of Z32 brake calipers you can swap those too with a little modification can't you? Sorry for the noob-iness
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OK, I just want to be clear I looked around already, but I've found a lot of conflicting information on the subject. I want to swap the R200 open diff on my 280z for the CLSD from the 88 Z31. I already have the new diff, but I haven't gotten a chance to try and install it yet. So far I've gathered that this is a bolt on swap and the ONLY thing I have to do is swap the driveshaft companion flange. Now, Some people say that I need to take off the finned cover and put my old non-finned cover on. I'd like to retain the finned cover so my diff won't overheat. Is there a bolt-on friendly (read: no welding) way of doing this? z31 mustache bar or something? Is this even a real problem? Thanks guys.
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WTB Z31 Turbo LSD (87-89) and 16x8 +0 Offset 4x114.3 Enkei 92s Open to other kinds of wheels, but they need to be those specs,. Could go 17 or slightly different offset, but must be an 8 inch or bigger wheel and fit a lowered 280z. Please reply to this thread and I will get back to you! Thanks, -Travis
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