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HybridZ

calZ

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Everything posted by calZ

  1. If it's a street car, why not just keep the standard seat belts?
  2. Converting to 5-lug hubs has no effect on your transmission. Are you wondering if you change your hub pattern and wheels if it's going to affect your speedometer accuracy? Wheel diameter doesn't matter at all to your transmission either, only tire diameter. So I guess to answer your second question, there is no need to change your speedometer drive gear if you do not change the diameter of your tires. If you do change the diameter of your tires, no, the speedo gear will not magically know this. Your speedo will read faster or slower than reality, depending on if you increased or decreased the diameter of your rear tires.
  3. Pusher fans don't really need shrouds. Is there any air gap between the sheet metal and the rad? From the picture it looks like all you're doing is blocking flow.
  4. From Apex or the other company you contacted?
  5. I'm on here far too much and would gladly handle spam removal and broken post duty.
  6. Your profile says you're in NJ. Is that still correct?
  7. On the other hand, I think the fact they used a bushing is nice. I would rather buy these than ones with a heim since my car isn't a track car and I still care about the NVH. Being able to dial in the alignment perfectly while maintaining stockish vibration control is an option no one else really offers.
  8. Your profile doesn't show any donations. I'd message an admin and make sure it went through.
  9. Yep. There's an adjustable screw that sticks out of the right side of the stick, and then you can see the little raised gate on the right side of the shifter. You just push down to get the screw under the gate, then right and back.
  10. https://cbfperformance.ecwid.com/?fbclid=IwAR3coSAvNYyxmT9zswBRPN5cLTERir6rBSnmzrz5xSi-kPHWmUIaOGmyrgc#!/Gen-5-Billet-CD009-Rear-mount-Shifter/p/67395190/category=0 This is the shifter that Hoke sold with the L-series to CD009 adapter. He didn't make it, and it's further forward than the one he produced. Without an offset handle it works with the stock shift boot, but might need a bit of trimming at the back. I'd guess that with the offset you might not have to trim.
  11. He didn't say prop valve on the rear, though. He said a prop valve on the front.
  12. Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
  13. Agreed. Everything I've ordered from them before has come individually wrapped in bubble wrap, then packed nicely and foamed. For some reason they cut corners this time and the parts paid the price. They only had to go from Sacramento to LA, so I can't imagine what they'd look like if they had gone across the country. I also agree that the scratches probably won't matter. The bearing just rests on those surfaces and doesn't rotate, so as long as the seal doesn't snag I think it should be fine. I'm still going to email and let them know someone mailed it in this time though.
  14. So I recently ordered some front coilovers from TechnoToyTuning. It took 6 weeks for them to get here, and I was greeted by a box with the top of one of my $1200 coilivers sticking out. Upon opening, I find that the two coilovers were essentially dropped in the box unwrapped and the spaces around them were somewhat filled with expanding foam material. I say somewhat because they obviously bounced around a good amount in transit, leading to some dings and scratches. I'd usually brush this off since I'll likely nick them up in the future, but there are blemishes on both of the chromoly spindles from where they hit the other coilover. I can lightly feel these scratches with my fingernails, so they aren't purely surface marks. Is this something worthy of sending them back to T3? Or just polish them up a bit and run them?
  15. Well, it works as far as I get a signal from the sensor on a multimeter. I ordered uprights from T3 4-5 weeks ago and they get here Monday, so once I have them I'll be able to finalize the ring and sensor mounts. My car is currently in the air and I have a turbo engine waiting to get bolted to a still-unsourced CD009 and swapped in, so it might be a long while until I have the inputs actually working with an ECU.
  16. I have an extra diff that I'd sell you, but I'm sure shipping costs would be insane. What are you going to do for axles, brakes, and hubs/bearings?
  17. They're pretty common in Southern California, but it looks like LKQ in Houston has 2 of them. You'll have to type Q45 in the search bar. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Houston_SW-239/recents/
  18. It would also help to get the car on the ground and settle the suspension before making judgements. Sometimes things can look weird when everything in the suspension is drooped.
  19. What stroke did you have it offset ground to?
  20. Your logs say that it's cutting ground or you just measured that at the relay? If it's the latter it could be a wiring problem rather than the ECU.
  21. I don't know much about 2JZs, but at those HP levels you'll definitely need to do some chassis strengthening. The two links below should give you examples and ideas for basically everything you'd want to do. https://imgur.com/a/R27sh
  22. I have the TTT rear end kit. Obviously I don't have the custom 8.8 rear cover, but I'm putting in a short nose R200. The parts are amazing. The machining is great at the coatings seem good. That said, it comes with absolutely zero instructions. There are labeled bags of fasteners and the setup is relatively simple, but a set of written instructions with torque values would be nice.
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