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Found 313 results

  1. Hi I am wondering if anyone would be willing to do a purchase inspection, or know someone that does them in Bakersfield. Also I would like to know the average cost of a PPI. Thanks
  2. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  3. After finally taking delivery of my 1972 240z from America, it's now appropriate to start a build thread! After being contacted by a fellow forum member with an unfinished project on his hands, money was sent over the interwebs and a few months later, the car arrived in the UK ready for collection. The car was a half finished RB26 swapped top end track car. It stood with the long block sat in the car, and a full Arizona Z Car track package installed. The underside of the car had been shotblasted & a half cage welded in. Most Z parts were included, however would need restoring/replacnig and generally rebuilding. The car from the seller Unknowing what to expect, we turned up with a trailer and loaded her on. The car was pretty much as expected, other than the weather had taken its toll and unforunately most untreated surfaces had succumed to quite a bit of surface rust. It looked a bit sorry for itself, but a quick test with some scotchbright does indicate its very light surface rust only and should come off without too much effort. There was also no steering rack connected which made loading the interesting! The bonnet (hood), windscreen (windshield) and boot lid (trunk/tail gate?) were all strapped down with duct tape which we didn't trust to hold on the motorway. This was not your knock-off chinese crap, obviously soviet-spec adhesives were used in this stuff as it kindly ripped off a majority of the paint when removed! Tucked up in the garage after a long day The intent for this car will be a track/race orientated build whilst retaining road legal status. Wish me luck
  4. I have a 1970 240z. I aquired a 1973 240z front bumper that has a different setup/bracket. I do not have the arm/rod brackets for the 73 or the "L" brackets for the 70. What do i need to install it on the 70 z? If i buy the early L brackets will they work or do i need to remove the U shape bracket (that looks like the rear) that is bolted inside the bumper and utilize or drill a new hole on the bumper? If the L bracket will work, i am willing to buy them, but didnt want to until i consulted with someone who is more knowlegeable on the issue. Picture: Early on top, 73 on bottom. I have the bottom and the left bolt seems to line up and so does the hole on the bumper behind the bracket stud according to the picture but i have not done any measuring. NOTE: I will also move the guard to a more outer position since the early z's had the guard next to the light bucket and the 73's had them about 4 inches on each side closer to center. In addition, i will have to find an overider that belongs to the early z. the 73 is a shorter bar and will not work.
  5. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  6. Looking for 240Z RHD padel box

    Hey everyone, Any chance of finding a RHD padel box (actually i need 5!) For a 1973 240Z ?
  7. Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
  8. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
  9. 240z clutch pedal.

    Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  10. Anyone in DFW know where I can find a driver side door for a 71 240z? I'm not finding any luck on craigslist and the original Z junk yard seems to no longer have Z's?
  11. Looking For S30 Whale Tail

    Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
  12. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and ship FREE in the continental US. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXipGdIWp2IHk6SfDUrX3aJfp6l_r2HR?usp=sharing Series 2 Fuse Box Cover $40 Series 2 Combo and Turn Signal Switch (Turn signal switch has some cut wires) $100 pair SOLD Fan Switches $20 each Series 2 Hazard Switch $40 Series 1 Antenna Switch $50 Series 1 Cigarette Lighter $40 Inspection Lamps $10 each Assorted Electronics $5 each
  13. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris
  14. Hi all, So I recently bought a toggle panel/push button start combo (here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYRFLHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Pretty good build quality for the price, but I am rather uneducated when it comes to wiring. My goal is to be able to flip the first red switch and have that be my ACC power switch, then push the start button and off I go. I ripped out the old harness entirely and have rewired the car with an EZ wiring 21 circuit kit. Currently, It's getting power to the button but it's not cranking over anything. Also, when I turn the ACC switch the power goes through to the button, but even when I turn off the switch the current continues to flow through, I'm assuming the relay is set up incorrectly. After having that problem I did some research and drew up this diagram of what I think would be what I want, but in the diagram, I have the ACC toggle on its own, whereas I want it to be in line with the power to the button if possible. The Toggles are 3 prong units, so I think it's possible? I am hoping somebody can look this over and give me some practical advice and tell me if I'm close, and if not, what I need to change up! Thanks in advance. Here are the photos/
  15. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  16. IMG_9750.JPG

    From the album New Parts

  17. IMG_9749.JPG

    From the album New Parts

  18. IMG_9740.JPG

    From the album New Parts

  19. What options is out there for racing,that you guys have experience with? I am looking at these http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/datsun-240z-260z-280z-(nissan-fairlady-z)/1k2-rally-tarmac/ i have no problem welding or fabrication
  20. Hey there, My name actually is Wesley despite my username, I've loved the Z series for an underwhelming 10 or so years. I'm new to the forum and I've dabbled in Classic Z Car forums for lotsa stock parts and rebuild resourcing. Recently I've been hunting and comparing prices on an RB25DET Series 2 (eng and trans) for my '72 240z who is lacking a working heart. I was recommend to this forum at a car event in Toronto, supposedly this is the hot spot for resto-mod and aftermarket Z builds! I don't believe this is the correct place for an introduction so i'll ask away. Has anyone purchased a used engine from a Toronto locale engine store, and what were your thoughts on service and product reliability? Additionally I am wondering if anyone has had good experiences with overseas JDM imports. I'm mostly concerned with accuracy of described product, product knowledge, and some form of warranty or guarantee. I've seen a 30-day limited warranty everywhere I've visited, and to be quite honest I will likely take the whole month to do the swap. That said, I may not be able to run the engine for testing before my warranty's up! Thanks so much for the read, and a quick thanks to every poster in the RB series forum. SO MUCH INFORMATION Wes
  21. I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
  22. Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.
  23. Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
  24. I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!!
  25. NEED CARBS PLS HELP

    hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
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