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Found 292 results

  1. Picked up a recently rebuilt L24 and E31 head. Block bored slightly. Head rebuilt to stock specs. Plan to run triple DCOE 40s w/ Mallory Unilite ignition. Would like to upgrade cam without doing additional work to the head. What cams would work with stock springs/lift?
  2. Ecoboost swap

    This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
  3. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some very short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that either fixed the problem, or when the fluid gets hot it begins to leak (I think I read something about a overflow on the top of the C4.) So I am working that out. Problem is – I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  4. I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!!
  5. Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.

    hello everyone! im new here but ive had my 280 for 2 years now. the engine turns over but it will never fire up. ive switched out plenty of relays and electrical components, cleaned out the fuel lines and installed new fuel pump. ive just decided to scrap the EFI system and switch to carburators. i was wondering if this would be the right place to ask the right person for some good but affordable carbs that will fit onto my 280z (cali model) thanks
  7. $16,500 The car is for sale locally and i reserve the right to end the auction at any time. No international buyers at this time. car is on ebay with a ton of pictures here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361966110585?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I am selling my ’72 240z street legal race car. Many pictures are after the description. This car is powered by the VQ35DE+6spd transmission from a 2003 350z (35k miles on donor). Please read the blog and entire ad below to get all the details and really absorb what this car has had done to it. No inexperienced drivers please. This car has no traction control, it can get you into trouble very quickly if not careful. It is a custom car and sold AS IS. No warranty expressed or implied. Ive owned it for 7 years and has been very reliable throughout my ownership, but I simply don’t drive it anymore. I fire it up once a month to get fluids moving and charge the battery, but I drove it about 5 times last year, only to car shows, so I think its time for a new home. I put 0 miles in the ad because i am not sure how many miles are on it. i have the factory speedo buried somewhere and since the VQ swap the speedo has not been recording mileage. i can find the original speedo and provide it if wanted. I think the easiest place to start is with the following build blog, where you will find most build related details. I haven’t added anything in a few years, but the majority of the build is there: www.vq240z.weebly.com here is a casual drive video I made a few years ago, but the car is fundamentally the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb4onzYaq28 Since the build blog I have made several improvements, please see the parts list and current pics to see all of what has changed. I raced it in NASA TT3 for the 2013 season and have about 20 track days under its belt with zero failures. It is a fun car on track, 2346lbs w/o driver, 233whp (at 4500ft elevation), and reliable. After one season of tracking it, I decided to move to Spec350z and retire the 240z to street use. The 350z is much more expendable in my mind than the S30 is. The S30 is quickly becoming a valued classic, especially the 240z. I think I would like to separate by category to cover all the parts and modifications that have been done. BODY: *started with a clean title California donor car, the donor itself was pricey. *POR 15 on all parts of the suspension, gloss black, see blog *KBS Rustseal on engine bay *all factory glass/windows currently in use *replaced both sheet metal doglegs with new metal due to rust *original floor pans with a few minor patches *Mckinney upper camber plates all four corners *coated most of the INSIDES of rocker panels, dog legs, wheel arches, etc with eastwood rust converter to prevent any rust from spreading from areas I couldn’t see *complete clean and strip of interior and painted with KBS gray along with engine bay *custom cage (1.5”x.120) fabrication from a local cage builder, per NASA spec. added much bracing elsewhere on rocker panels, etc. see build blog for all cage pics. *motor mounts welded on and stitch welded engine bay *BAD DOG front and rear frame rail reinforcement kit welded on over existing perfect condition frame rails *front sway bar reinforcement plates welded in *KBS sealed most of the underside of the body, took care of any undercoating that was missing *MSA headlight covers and wheel flares *MSA BRE front air dam and rear wing *MSA fiberglass rear bumper Overall I wanted the body to be functional, clean, and coated to prevent rust. This was more important than the paint being cosmetically perfect. It needs a good respray, I had vinyl decals I recently removed that took some of the paint with it. Along with that, It has some dings, scrapes, and many chips. It tends to look better in pictures than in person, it is white so its forgiving. My strategy with this restoration was to work inside to outside, the last item being the paint job. At the time, I decided I would not paint it due to the finish being acceptable to me as a race car, but now that it is more of a street car, I would want to get it painted. It was painted in the 90’s and its ready for another high quality respray. All the extra triangulation reinforcement has made the car feel amazing. Body weight is 2346lb with no driver and half tank of fuel with almost a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. ENGINE/Drivetrain: *2003 350z engine/transmission, pulled with 35k miles. Completely stock other than UPREV custom tune (with 4 hrs dyno time), Kinetix intake manifold, intake, and custom exhaust built by myself to include v banded sections, a y-pipe, 2.5” prior to y pipe and 3” piping after, and a Borla XR-1 muffler. The exhaust is aging, and I regret not doing it in SS, I did it in 16 gauge mild steel and painted it, but SS would have been better. There is always the option to get the current exhaust coated to clean it up instead of building a new one. *much deletion of EVAP equipment as well as the factory oil “cooler” (replaced with setrab), no Power steering, no AC, no heater, no blower. Factory manual fresh air duct valves are still intact and working. *SETRAB 25 row oil cooler with MOCAL sandwich plate with 180 degree thermostat, -10 SS lines/fittings *Factory modified radiator, works great and never gets close to overheating. I would probably replace with a pretty aluminum one eventually, the stock one doesn’t look as good, plus it is heavy. *Ford Taurus electric fan running off factory fan signal from ECU to turn on at ~210F *custom transmission mount and driveshaft *JWT lightweight flywheel *Exedy clutch disk, new throw out bearing, pilot bushing, Z1 shift fork pivot ball, 2004+ upgraded shift fork *new clutch master/slave cylinder/SS hard line *”RT” diff mount *Subaru STI R180 clutch pack rear LSD * Beta Motorsports diff output shafts to work with stock half shafts and STI differential * 280z stub axles *redline MT90 in tranny, Motul rear diff fluid *Completely custom fuel scavenge/return system using ATL “black box” with high HP fuel pump, flap doors to prevent starvation, aeromotive regulator and SS delivery and return. I used the factory fuel supply hard line as the return path for the fuel. Rollover valve installed in the vent of the fuel tank in the cabin. The engine/driveline feels great, never had a problem with any parts of it, no fuel starvation at any level on track. The Subaru STI LSD is the perfect combination for this engine. It dyno’d 233 rwhp at 4500 ft elevation. I run 5w-30 mobil 1 in the engine and I have many race miles on it and has never skipped a beat. The good thing is these engines are super cheap to source and repair. SUSPENSION/BRAKES: *Mckinney Motorsports S13 full coilover kit *Arizona Z car front wildwood 4 piston brake setup *Modern motorsports rear disk brake conversion *Front wildwood pads with centric street performance rear pads *ChaseBays Brake booster eliminator with Wilwood master cylinder (I still have the stock booster) *JEGS brake proportioning valve *Full -3 SS brake lines ran to every corner using Pegasus racing parts. *Techno Toy Tuning tension rods *Techno Toy Tuning Lower rear control arms *Suspension Techniques rear sway bar *MSA front sway bar *every bushing replaced with urethane versions *brake ducts run from front air dam to brake backing plates, clamped onto 3” exhaust pipe fitting, works great, ZERO fade on the hottest of days. Right now I have the duct hoses off since it has been a street car. Ive been trying out different brake combinations on this car. one thing you must learn is the brakes on this car have always felt abnormally hard, even with the booster. There still could be some troubleshooting done there and more experimentation with pad compounds, etc but that is up to the new owner. I will include all parts I have experimented with to try to get the feel I like but I am still not happy with how they feel. INTERIOR/ELECTRONICS: *factory modified 350z ECU harness, deleted (removed pins in connectors) down to only what I needed for the 240z, simplified A LOT. Rewrapped and simplified 240z body harness only to keep essentials. Has working brake lights, headlights, running lights, reverse lights, and horn. *Utilizing factory NATS (Nissan anti theft system) with all BCM, IPDM, key, ignition, NATS antenna, and ECU. I have a notebook with all diagrams and markups for troubleshooting future issues. Its been 7 years so I may not remember it all. *MSA upgraded headlight and parking light harness in order to get a brighter light and no wire overheating. *MSA updated fuse block to accept more modern mini fuses. *stock dash (with dash cap) trimmed to fit around roll cage *Autometer sport comp gauges (speedo, Tach with shift light, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel level, and battery voltage). Speedo does not have the magnetic pickup wired yet, so speedo does not work currently. *Ultrashield 5pt harnesses *Aluminum collars to prevent side to side movement of shoulder harnesses. *“Planted” side mounts hold the seats to the factory reinforced seat mount provisions. *Sparco Sprint 2014 version seats *Tomei steering wheel *NRG hub and NRG v2.5 quick release in carbon fiber, also have the regular hub non quick release. *fire extinguisher for basic fire management. *new carpet kit with vinyl panels and plastic panels The interior is very basic but it does the job. Its actually relatively comfy, I would really want to get some new door panels made to adapt around the cage, the ones that are in there are poorly modified and drivers side was destroyed from having to break in the driver door lock from the inside…new door panels are a must, luckily ive seen a lot of aluminum options as of late since these cars have skyrocketed in popularity. Also, the glue that holds down the new vinyl panels is starting to lift and parts of them need to be redone. You have to be a thinner guy to squeeze in and out of the car, the quick release steering wheel helps, but it’s a tight fit. You definitely feel as if you are driving a race car when driving this. Seating position is not adjustable with a slider, but can always be modified. I am 5’11” 175lbs, a pretty average size person. WHEELS/TIRES: * 17x9.5 -13 Rota RBX with Hankook RS3 tires. Tread is fine and will last a few more years depending on what you do with it. FLAWS: Flaws are relative, but if I were to keep it I would: recalibrate fuel level gauge, get new door panels made, get some of the vinyl panels refitted, wire up the speedo pickup, get a new exhaust made out of SS, and maybe a paint job sometime down the road. This is the type of car you want to work on and play with, so I’m sure the new owner will find small things to work on. CONCLUSION: Overall there is nothing more to say other than the car is an absolute blast to drive and own. It is purpose built for having fun on a nice day. It is a toy, not a daily driver. Its bumpy, loud, and your wife/girlfriend will probably not like riding In it. if you don’t know how to work on cars or do not like tinkering, please get something else. I get more attention in this car than I do when I drive my Ferrari. It actually gets annoying sometimes with how many people want to race you or chat about how they haven’t seen one in 30 years.
  8. Hey guys, I recently bought a 240z and it ended up having more rust than I originally thought, thus begins my new winter project. Pulling her home with my 1987 2WD Toyota Pickup. That was a long haul between northeast of Sacramento and Southern California. The truck performed well though! The car sat for a while and the engine internals have rusted. The overview plan is to pull the engine, fix the front half of the car's rust problems, swap the SUs from the L24 to my rebuilt L28, install the engine, and drive it while fixing other things (interior). Some hood damage. Hopefully I can bump these out. Starting to inspect for rust on the passenger side frame rail/firewall interface. It's definitely in need of some work. Inside engine bay rail. Engine removal In preparation for cutting into frame rails I dropped the front suspension to remove as much stressed from the rails as possible. Stand I welded up to support car from the transmission mounts. I've made a little more progress -- started making patch panel templates and cutting metal from the battery tray area. It looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of metal around the battery tray area -- frame rail, battery tray inner fender, a piece of the firewall, and passenger side floor pan. Hopefully driver side isn't this bad.
  9. 240z vs 280z

    I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
  10. Hey all, Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said: Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened street S30. I have seen references in other threads that suggest that the Koni 6810s are stiffer and more appropriate for high spring rates and track/road race uses. What shocks, currently on the market, are the best match to the performance of the Tokico Illuminas? Ideally something adjustable within the stiffness range of a daily driver.
  11. Hey all, Long time lurker, first-time poster. I am currently in the process of building an early 240z with a rb26 in it. I have just finished rebuilding my motor and mating it to the rb25 gearbox so I am in the process of getting it all mounted up in place. I am using the CXracing mount kit. I would have gone the McKinney kit but unfortunately here in Australia the dollar was low at the time of ordering so this was the only affordable one. Anyway, I have got the engine mounted up and am having trouble getting the gearbox up in the tunnel as the speedo sensor is interfering with the ears. I'm not sure the best way to go about fixing this issue. I have seen plenty of pics of peoples mods of notching out the bracket with the other style of tunnel mounting but I can't see any solutions that utilise the cx mounts I have. Has anyone come across and solved this problem at all? I have uploaded 2 pics of the interference, and also one of the mounts that I have that attaches between the ears. I have already tried just moving the engine forwards but the mounts are already set such that the engine is as far forward as possible. Any help would be much appreciated!!
  12. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  13. When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks
  14. Datsun hood

    From the album 71 240z

    Getting the hood ready for some paint.
  15. 240z hood

    From the album 71 240z

    The under side of the hood painted flat black in the center and gloss on the edges.
  16. Steering wheel

    From the album 71 240z

    Tried to clean up the steering wheel.
  17. My 240z after some paint

    From the album 71 240z

    After putting everything back on it's looking much better. I really need to take care of that signal light though.
  18. Hey guys, I don't really have a garage anymore due to Harvey and we are actually leaving the city for the Pacific NW coast sometime next year so I'm kind of in a bind. I have a '72 240z with some extensive rust. I can't really attempt to do this myself as a project any longer and I thought about selling her and buying another after I move, but I don't want to lose this car and try and find another which will probably be in a similar state anyway. Is there a shop in Houston that you recommend for the rust repair? I've been in contact with Awesome Z (Doug) and HoustonZAuto. Is there anyone else I should consider leaving my car with for the repair? Thanks in advance!
  19. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  20. Front reassembly

    From the album 71 240z

    I put most of the front pieces back together but I'm waiting to paint the underside of the hood so I can adjust it while the grill is off.
  21. Painted horn and hinge

    From the album 71 240z

    Painted horn and hinge.
  22. Radiator support

    From the album 71 240z

    Cleaning up the radiator support area.
  23. Front nose panted

    From the album 71 240z

    Front nose panted.
  24. Front end parts

    From the album 71 240z

    Parts taken off to be cleaned up and painted.
  25. Cleaned up horn and hing parts

    From the album 71 240z

    After cleaning up the horn, hinge and hardware.